How to get the axle out??

[Nvreloader]

Hey guys
This is a drawing of my rear hub, I need to get the axle out for measurements, so I can get the correct Robert axle for my trailer installment, the OEM axle is a QR type 190mm in length.
I am attempting to figure out HOW.??????
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated,
Tia

 

[fooferdoggie]

does it have the usual quick release or a through axle? Kinda looks like a through axle so thats usually 12mm or 15mm. a pic would help.

 

[Nvreloader]

Foo
Here is a photo of the rear hub, (Top Hub) 5mm QR type 190mm in length. I have not found any threads, hidden keys, set screws etc, used for removal for the center axle.
Tia

 

[fritz katzenjammer]

I don’t understand why you would need the inner axel length but…

The end caps are pressed on, not hard to get off but easily damaged without the correct tool.

the free hub likely unscrews once the cap is out. ( some just slip off with the cap)

if you have a depth gauge the inner axel length can then be worked out, otherwise start driving bearings out.

 

[rob feature]

Have you tried just tugging on the caps / adapters? Looks like it's set up for a 12mm thru axle with a 5mm skewer adapter. I have a similar set of hubs. The caps just slide off.

 

[Nvreloader]

Thanks Guys
I'll try carefully getting the end caps off,
there is a small tip of the axle showing and it measures 10mm dia,
but looks to step up to a larger unk dia at the start of the end caps.

I need the spec's on this axel,
so I order/change over to the correct length/diameter,
solid axel to add the bobbin ends to this axle for attaching the trailer,
as they don't make a skewer with the bobbins ends, that is around 220mm long,
the OEM Skewer/Bobbin ends is 190mm long and is too short.

The OEM QR Skewer length is 190mm long and I have to have a 220+mm long solid axle for safe/secure trailer attachment, for attachment of my single rear wheel trailer.

Thanks guys........back to the rear axle........

 

[indianajo]

If the end caps are press in sheet metal cups:
replace the tightener and dummy nut with real hex nuts. Cover the threads.
Set one end on a deep socket large enough to support the hub but not the cap. Use a bearing press, or beat on the top nut with a hammer.
To re-insert the caps: find a socket that just covers the cap but not the hub. Support the other end of the hub with the socket that supports the hub rim. Press with a bearing press, or use a hammer straight down. Do not get the cap with only one side inserted. It might bend it.

 

[PCeBiker]

solid axel to add the bobbin ends to this axle for attaching the trailer,

Thanks guys........back to the rear axle........

View attachment 209435

I'm not really sure what your plans are, but I looked into a rear rack for my hub bike that uses the same sort of bobbin ends as what your using.

The bobbin ends can't be attached to my hub motor because the motor cable runs through the middle of the axle.


I recently bought a trailer hitch that attaches to the chainstay so I can attach a trailer,..

They also have this version for a trailer hitch attachment,..

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mONsmHT

You might be able to mount one on each side of the frame and attach your bobbins to them?

And it would help move some of the trailer weight forward to get your front wheel holding more of the weight.

 

[Nvreloader]

PC
That seems to be a very good Idea, as I am not making any headway attempting to find the correct axle type of attachment.
Robert axle said it don't have a suitable axel for this model of bike??

Or the other route would be replacing the hub with a 12mm axle and then there is the the costs of the new parts, rebuilding the rear wheel etc.

I'll have to find out about the shipping/tariffs etc from across the pond.......
on the 3/5 item..
Tia

 

[PCeBiker]

I'm not sure about the thread size and pitch on that trailer hitch adapter?

Axles have a specific thread pitch that is kinda reserved for hardened steel.

That trailer hitch adapter is designed to be used where you can't use the bikes axle, so it may have the proper thread for your bobbins, but I'm not sure.

There may be other bobbins available that would fit if the bobbins you are intending to use don't have the same thread.

The other thing to consider is the spacing from bobbin to bobbin, but the one wheeled trailers I've looked at have adjustable arms on the trailer to open up to whatever spacing you would need.

 

[Nvreloader]

PC
That is what I am attempting to find out, the U bolts are the hold up, they have to be large enough, to fit the chain stays, proper attachment and strength.. for towing the trailer.

I am not to concerned about the extend bolt, I have a lathe and mill and can adapt to the required thread size needed for the the bobbins, to screw onto, a proper sized bolt counter sunk in from the back side will work.
Tia

 

[PCeBiker]

,.. they have to be large enough, to fit the chain stays,

Here's a link from another vendor selling the same coupler.
It's got the dimensions listed, and it's cheaper too.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPKBY3z

And here's a link to an "extension screw" that might come in handy.


I just found this on AliExpress:
1-5Pcs Bicycle Trailer Hitch Extension Screw Towing Head Extension Screw for Prams Children's Bicycle Pet Carriage Dog Tra

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mq96ZoL

I'm having a hard time finding the weight limit of the coupler though, but mine appears to be quite robust.

 

[Nvreloader]

PC
The rear stays on my bike are .870" diam, and from what I can tell,
either one of those mount might work. I'll have to cut off and drill
and tap the base to allow the bobbins to fit etc.
Still checking......Tia

 

[PCeBiker]

@Nvreloader

I've been thinking about the trailer that you're building.

I think that you want to make one of these,..

Using one of these,..

Keep in mind that a one wheeled trailer leans with your ebike, and will fall over if it isn't attached to the ebike.

You are making a two wheeled trailer, and hooking it up to your ebike like a one wheeled trailer.

With a single wheel on the trailer, the pressure on the bobbins are always pushing down.

With two wheels on the trailer, there will be alternating upwards pressure on a bobbin as either your ebike or trailer leans one way or the other.

You'll have a Really Narrow wheel-base though, so there shouldn't be Too much twisting force, but with 200 pounds of cargo in the trailer, that could put a lot of twisting pressure on the bobbins.

I'm not sure how the trailer attachment connects to the bobbins, but I think that the locking mechanism is on the underside of the bobbins, and that might not be able to deal with upwards type pressure?

You might be okay, but it's something to keep an eye on during your testing phase.

The locking mechanism might pop off, or jam in some way?


EDIT:
Just thinkin,.. If you were to lower the pressures of your trailer tires, (like how they ride a fat-bike in sand) the two tires might "lean over" more like the trailer has one big fat tire?

Your range will be reduced, but it might tow better?

 

[Nvreloader]

PC
Go to here to see the finished trailer,

Revamping a bike trailer?

Thoughts and suggestions................ Tia

forums.electricbikereview.com

I have been testing just the dual wheel version only, so far, have 3 smooth road tests so far. Handles very well, as for the corning aspect, with this dual wheel, when corning, the high side wheel is lifted off the ground and the low inside wheel handles the corning duties.

This types of trailer with the built in kick stand will not tip over with either wheel option, and I also learned if I Jack Knife the bike to the trailer, I don't need any kick stand, with is a plus.

The last test was with 100#'s (lead shot) in the trailer, I could feel the trailer when making fast corrections and corning, not too bad, as I have never pulled any trailer on any bike, but it got my attention.

I found out that my max speed will be lower than 20mph, as my normal speed is 10/12mph I am not too concerned. The wheel base width is 13" O/S and a tipping angle as shallow as 15/20* caused the off side tire to leave the ground,
when making a corner, this is with a 100# load in the trailer.

The locking hook to attach the the trailer, is a "C" shaped cam with a long nosed hook that locks under the bobbins, via a spring push button, the locking end drops into a recessed hole of the spring push button end and will not come undone.
This "C" shaped hook is approx 3/16" in thickness and the hook part makes a full circle of the bobbin shank when locking.

More testing tomorrow providing there is not strong blowing winds.
Tia.

 

[Nvreloader]

After finishing the 3rd road tests, the last one with a 100#'s in the trailer, back towards the rear wheels. I did find out that the swivel/pivot point between the bike attachment forks and main body of the trailer is very twichy and the slight movement causes over excessive trailer swaying. I think, I can slow down/stop this twichy movements....... more trail testing on going.
Tia

 

[Nvreloader]

Well,
I'll have plenty of time, as I didn't draw any tags (again), so I can spend it on getting this bike trailer operating in perfect form.

Finished 3 road tests, the last one with a 100#'s in the trailer, back towards the rear wheels.
I did find out that the swivel/pivot point between the bike attachment forks and main body of the trailer is very twichy and the slightest movement causes over excessive trailer swaying, when hauling this weight.
I think I can slow down/stop this twichy movements....... more trail testing on going.

I remember reading some where, that someone had the same type of BoB single wheel trailer, and found out that this main swivel joint was acting the same way, causing excessive trailer swaying.
The correction for this problem was the use of a bike tube wrapped around the main connection joint somehow, there was a phot shown on how to do it.?

By any chance would a member have that site information handy, spent several hours looking and searching and have not found it so far.
Your thoughts or suggestions,
Tia

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