How to get the axle out??

Nvreloader

Western Nevada
Region
USA
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Hey guys
This is a drawing of my rear hub, I need to get the axle out for measurements, so I can get the correct Robert axle for my trailer installment, the OEM axle is a QR type 190mm in length.
I am attempting to figure out HOW.??????
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated,
Tia
 
does it have the usual quick release or a through axle? Kinda looks like a through axle so thats usually 12mm or 15mm. a pic would help.
 
Foo
Here is a photo of the rear hub, (Top Hub) 5mm QR type 190mm in length. I have not found any threads, hidden keys, set screws etc, used for removal for the center axle.
Tia
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I don’t understand why you would need the inner axel length but…

The end caps are pressed on, not hard to get off but easily damaged without the correct tool.

the free hub likely unscrews once the cap is out. ( some just slip off with the cap)

if you have a depth gauge the inner axel length can then be worked out, otherwise start driving bearings out.
 
Have you tried just tugging on the caps / adapters? Looks like it's set up for a 12mm thru axle with a 5mm skewer adapter. I have a similar set of hubs. The caps just slide off.
 
Thanks Guys
I'll try carefully getting the end caps off,
there is a small tip of the axle showing and it measures 10mm dia,
but looks to step up to a larger unk dia at the start of the end caps.

I need the spec's on this axel,
so I order/change over to the correct length/diameter,
solid axel to add the bobbin ends to this axle for attaching the trailer,
as they don't make a skewer with the bobbins ends, that is around 220mm long,
the OEM Skewer/Bobbin ends is 190mm long and is too short.

The OEM QR Skewer length is 190mm long and I have to have a 220+mm long solid axle for safe/secure trailer attachment, for attachment of my single rear wheel trailer.

Thanks guys........back to the rear axle........

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If the end caps are press in sheet metal cups:
replace the tightener and dummy nut with real hex nuts. Cover the threads.
Set one end on a deep socket large enough to support the hub but not the cap. Use a bearing press, or beat on the top nut with a hammer.
To re-insert the caps: find a socket that just covers the cap but not the hub. Support the other end of the hub with the socket that supports the hub rim. Press with a bearing press, or use a hammer straight down. Do not get the cap with only one side inserted. It might bend it.
 
solid axel to add the bobbin ends to this axle for attaching the trailer,

Thanks guys........back to the rear axle........

View attachment 209435


I'm not really sure what your plans are, but I looked into a rear rack for my hub bike that uses the same sort of bobbin ends as what your using.

The bobbin ends can't be attached to my hub motor because the motor cable runs through the middle of the axle.


I recently bought a trailer hitch that attaches to the chainstay so I can attach a trailer,..

Screenshot_20260501_143415_AliExpress.jpg




They also have this version for a trailer hitch attachment,..



Screenshot_20260501_143153_AliExpress.jpg






You might be able to mount one on each side of the frame and attach your bobbins to them?

And it would help move some of the trailer weight forward to get your front wheel holding more of the weight.
 
Last edited:
PC
That seems to be a very good Idea, as I am not making any headway attempting to find the correct axle type of attachment.
Robert axle said it don't have a suitable axel for this model of bike??

Or the other route would be replacing the hub with a 12mm axle and then there is the the costs of the new parts, rebuilding the rear wheel etc.

I'll have to find out about the shipping/tariffs etc from across the pond.......
on the 3/5 item..
Tia
 
I'm not sure about the thread size and pitch on that trailer hitch adapter?

Axles have a specific thread pitch that is kinda reserved for hardened steel.

That trailer hitch adapter is designed to be used where you can't use the bikes axle, so it may have the proper thread for your bobbins, but I'm not sure.

There may be other bobbins available that would fit if the bobbins you are intending to use don't have the same thread.

The other thing to consider is the spacing from bobbin to bobbin, but the one wheeled trailers I've looked at have adjustable arms on the trailer to open up to whatever spacing you would need.
 
PC
That is what I am attempting to find out, the U bolts are the hold up, they have to be large enough, to fit the chain stays, proper attachment and strength.. for towing the trailer.

I am not to concerned about the extend bolt, I have a lathe and mill and can adapt to the required thread size needed for the the bobbins, to screw onto, a proper sized bolt counter sunk in from the back side will work.
Tia
 
,.. they have to be large enough, to fit the chain stays,

Here's a link from another vendor selling the same coupler.
It's got the dimensions listed, and it's cheaper too.



Screenshot_20260504_025935_AliExpress.jpg





And here's a link to an "extension screw" that might come in handy.


I just found this on AliExpress:
1-5Pcs Bicycle Trailer Hitch Extension Screw Towing Head Extension Screw for Prams Children's Bicycle Pet Carriage Dog Tra




I'm having a hard time finding the weight limit of the coupler though, but mine appears to be quite robust.
 
PC
The rear stays on my bike are .870" diam, and from what I can tell,
either one of those mount might work. I'll have to cut off and drill
and tap the base to allow the bobbins to fit etc.
Still checking......Tia
 
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