How do you keep rust of your bike/bolts/parts

MrCaspan

MrCaspan

Active Member
So i have had my e-bike now for 4 months and been pretty good washing it down after each ride but we went to the cottage and had to store the bike on the bike rack on the back of the car for the week and it rained a few times. Now i have rust spots in my bolt heads on my befang m620 my chain is rusted a bit and even the washers for my full suspension seem to have little brown starting on them. I feel like I do what I can to keep the bike clean but then it just rusts up? Any tips or tricks to keeping rust off the bike. I know leaving it out in the weather for a week was not best idea but what do you do when you travel and there is not a shed to store it in? Would love to get your feedback. I feel I look at other bikes on the trail that look like they're 10 years old without a single spot of rust on them!
 
Superficial rust spots are easily removed with a bit of steel wool. For hardware that I want to keep shiny, I use a little car wax after cleaning.

Of course keeping the bike dry is the best way to ward off rust but unfortunately, it isn't always possible. Unless my bike is covered with crud after riding in rain or mud, I usually let it dry and use a brush and soft cloth to remove light dirt & dust. I also have a compressor which I use to blow off stubborn dirt.

In my mind, a bike is meant to be used & enjoyed and it's often difficult to keep it looking showroom new. A spotless bike isn't high on my priority list.
 
Why would you wash after every ride? Maybe you're over-doing it a bit? You might consider an air compressor (got mine for $99 bucks a few years ago...) to blow off dirt or water. For example, I use a hand nozzle to blow off water after I clean my chain before I lube it. I also blow off dust and moisture from other parts of the bike when I need to.
Other than that, if moving parts are properly lubed, then a bit of rust at joints isn't a big deal, although it might be a reminder to lube a bit more? OTOH, too much lube could attract dirt which would be even worse than rust in a joint.
 
Most bikes have aluminum frames so that part will not rust. The nuts, bolts and washers on some bikes are carbon steel so will rust. I suggest you replace those carbon steel parts with stainless steel which will not rust.
If your bike gets wet blow dry or wipe it as soon as possible to shorten the time it is wet. A bit of WD40 will help at preventing rust. When it gets down to it there isn't any way to prevent the rusting of carbon steel nuts. bolts and washers except to replace them with stainless steel.
 
retiredNH said:
Why would you wash after every ride? Maybe you're over-doing it a bit? You might consider an air compressor (got mine for $99 bucks a few years ago...) to blow off dirt or water. For example, I use a hand nozzle to blow off water after I clean my chain before I lube it. I also blow off dust and moisture from other parts of the bike when I need to.
Other than that, if moving parts are properly lubed, then a bit of rust at joints isn't a big deal, although it might be a reminder to lube a bit more? OTOH, too much lube could attract dirt which would be even worse than rust in a joint.
Click to expand...
I dont fully wash it down but I rinse it to get dirt off the chain and moving parts. I ride this thing in the Hydro Cut in Waterloo, a huge mountain bike trail system here. I do commute with it but I also ride mine hard in the trails, and that's when I rinse it down not after a city commute!
 
Here's a thread from 2019 (more about protecting the electronics, but applicable).

Waterproofing electrical components

I've done some searching here, and looking at videos, but have a couple of questions about making my Spark Mini more water/snow resistant. I'm not planning on doing heavy riding in such conditions, but the Mini is perfect for doing grocery runs, as the winter walk is about 25-30 minutes, but...
electricbikereview.com electricbikereview.com

I tried ACF50 as per a few recommendations, and it's a solid product. It's far more anti-corrosive than WD40, and completely safe for electronic components.

I'm even using it as chain lube on my fat tire "winter" e-bike. I've not tried it as chain lube on my mid-drive bike though. There is an oily odor from ACF50 upon application as there's naphtha in it, but that will dissipate.

Just don't get it on your brakes.
 
The cover is sound advice; just make sure it is loose fitting so condensation doesn't create a problem during wide temperature swings.

WD 40 is great for displacing moisture on moving parts after getting wet.

Wax parts susceptible to rust; or as someone suggested, repkacecwith rust resistant parts.

I have been fortunate to have shelter for my bikes 99.9% of the time. I also am a fair weather rider, so that helps.
 
I worked at N.A.S. Pensacola. People would spray machines down with WD-40 at the end of day shift to come back to brown surfaces, (rust), the next day. ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil works. Just sayin.
 
Dave Rocks said:
WD40 & a Q-Tip
Click to expand...
Better to use a protectant rather than a solvent like WD40

Developed for aviation
boeshield.com

Bikes & Bicycles | Boeshield T-9®

Cyclists depend on Boeshield T-9® for rust protection, chain and parts lubrication, and a deep-penetrating cleaner. Our long-lasting spray does it all.
boeshield.com

Reaches deeper. T-9 stays liquid long enough to permeate metal crevices and seep deep inside assembled components to leave a durable protective coating that lubricates and protects—all without dismantling your equipment.

Completely waterproof. T-9 dries to a clean, waxy, waterproof film that won’t wash off in rain, puddles or mud. You can rinse away sand, dust and grime with water, while leaving the lubricant intact.

One step to long-term protection. Apply T-9 to any metal surface and let it dry. One simple step gives you a thin, penetrating film of durable, waterproof protection and lubrication that endures, month after month, mile after mile.

Bicycle Distributors – U.S., Canada & Mexico​

 
I oil all carbon steel including chain every two weeks with a pump oiler. SUS 56 hydraulic fluid, aka type F or A ATF. Non-detergent oil. Similar to oils in post 11 but $12 a gallon at farm supplies. Buy the generic hydraulic fluid, the stuff rated for Jdeere Case NewHolland etc has detergent in it which sucks water out of air.
My bike sits outside at shops, restaurants, meetings, concerts. At my summer property I throw a HD sourced plastic sheet over it if rain is going to be persistant. 4 1/2 years old, no visible rust.
 
Every independent test I have read with regard to corrosion for my ocean boats exposed to saltwater has found that WD-40 is the best at any price. It was originally developed by the U.S. Navy for marine use.

For small parts that are rusting a little clear nail polish works wonders and is easy to apply with the applicator brush in the bottle.
 
Elkman said:
Every independent test I have read with regard to corrosion for my ocean boats exposed to saltwater has found that WD-40 is the best at any price. It was originally developed by the U.S. Navy for marine use.
Click to expand...
Citations please?

FWIW

Sadly so many reviews are either product promotions or sadly contrived to make a particular product look better.

Then there's this testing with aluminum products

From WD40 product web page,
Screen Shot 2022-09-28 at 11.56.47 AM.png
 
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With my scuba diving and underwater photography my gear was in salt water for hours and then topside to be put in a rinse tank and that was a far harsher environment than any bicycle will be subjected to in the real world.

Mil specs are used to insure a contract goes to a favored vendor and the guys in the Pentagon get their kickbacks. It is why the United States military spends more than the next 10 countries combined and yet has lost wars around the world for the past 60 years, and why we have 16 million children going to bed hungry each night. Hoorah
 
I don’t go diving with my bike. Too funny! Sounds like an orange man conspiracy. BTW your claim to fame was the US Navy. o_O I’m supposed to think Boeing and their lot are also on the dole with the FAA… Sadly ACF50 and Boeshield won’t help arthritis…
 
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Probably the be-all end-all of anti-corrosion tests, though Boeshield isn't included (may be a UK thing?)

A whole whack of different option, after sitting in a 5% salt water bath for 23 days straight...

1664463382993.png

It's by far the most comprehensive (and independent) test I've seen, as performed by BikeSocial (a part of Bennett's, a UK auto/motorcycle insurance company, if I recall correctly).

If you REALLY want to do a deep dive on the performance of about 20 different products, here's their link... they don't just look at which one prevents rust the longest. They also look at other properties like stickiness, price per litre, and more.

Though they don't discuss each as a chain lubricant (though ACF-50 works from my experience) :)

www.bennetts.co.uk

The BEST motorcycle rust inhibitors

Huge product test helps keep your bike looking its best
www.bennetts.co.uk www.bennetts.co.uk

 
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