How do you clean your chain?

[YoGe]

Simple question - how do you clean your chain? How often do you clean your chain?

The related question is why don't e-bikes freewheel the front cog backwards? This obviously makes cleaning the chain difficult, hence my original question.

Thanks for your advice!

 

[fooferdoggie]

I use a stand makes life easier. I don't usually clean my chain I use a really dry lube. the only time I clean it is when ti is new to clean off the factory grease.

 

[Alaskan]

I lube my chain and cassette every 125-200 miles depending on whether it has gotten wet since the last time or is looking particularly dirty.

When it is time to clean the chain, I put the bike up on the stand, remove the chain from the bike and remove the rear wheel and the cassette from the rear wheel. They both go into an ultrasonic cleaner that warms the water to 140 degrees with a squirt of dish soap. This thoroughly cleans the chain in about 20 minutes. While that is happening I manually clean the front chain ring still on the bike but much more accessible with the chain removed. I immediately blow all the water off the with a cleaning nozzle on the hose of my air compressor.

I reinstall the chain with a fresh new quick link. I get my quick links in cards of 12 on ebay. I then lubricate each roller, one drop per link on each side. My lube of choice is Muck Off C3 Dry Ceramic.

Finally I carefully and slowly so as not to spray the lube everywhere, roll the chain through all of the gears to spread a small amount of lube from the chain on to all the teeth of each cog on the cassette.

This gets me at least 1,500 miles on 11 & 12 speed chains and 3,000 miles on the smaller cogs on cassettes. I replace chains when the are at .5% worn and the smaller cogs on my cassettes when they start to skip or the shifting into the higher gears gets at all hinkey.

 

[Alaskan]

Simple question - how do you clean your chain? How often do you clean your chain?

The related question is why don't e-bikes freewheel the front cog backwards? This obviously makes cleaning the chain difficult, hence my original question.

Thanks for your advice!

The new version of Chain Cleaner from Park Tool Cm 5.3, mounts the handle on either side so there is no need to turn the chain backward, just flip the cleaner around with the handle on the other side.

 

[dodgeman]

I use this stuff every hundred miles. It cleans it and lubes it.

 

[YoGe]

I pressure wash my ebike once a week because I ride mostly off roads dusty or muddy trails.
Same time I service drive train/chain etc.
I remove the chain and let soak in jar of motor oil same brand I use for my vehicles. Then replace the missing link with new. It has been 400miles or so since replaced I then used a chain gauge to check if the chain still good and it is good.
I flipped bike upside down, in fact just did it last night after a few Russian martinis.

You don't find any issues with the hydraulic brakes when you flip the bike? I try to do that as little as possible. If there's any air in the system it will float up to the piston and then the brakes will be mushy until the air bubble floats back up. I haven't had that issue with my Creo, but I did have it with my last bike - a Bulls EVO.

You just put the chain on back oily? Doesn't that that attract dirt and debris?

 

[YoGe]

I use a stand makes life easier. I don't usually clean my chain I use a really dry lube. the only time I clean it is when ti is new to clean off the factory grease.

@fooferdoggie , @Alaskan : What kind of stand are you guys using? I have a Park Tool stand which I purchased about 20 years ago when I was riding a meBike, but it doesn't seem durable enough to hold the weight of an eBike. What do you recommend?

 

[Alaskan]

I have an Efficient Velo Tools EZ lift stand. Made in the USA, down on the Columbia river and very expensive but absolutely awesome. You lower the clamping mechinism, secure the bike to it on the ground and then lift with a 30lb counterweight. No lifting the bike, holding it with one hand and clamping with the other. It is high grade professional gear and a joy to use but costs as much as many ebikes. I first saw it at our local Specialized shop and knew it would ultimately prevent a dropped and broken bike or a strained back or shoulder.

EZ-Lift Repair Stand — Efficient Velo Tools (EVT)

See CONFIGURATIONS below to identify the best EZ-Lift Repair Stand for you. Order on our website or by phone at (971) 258-0925. Or let’s start a conversation by email at [email protected]. Please feel free to inquire about an estimated ship date, as lead times vary. As of this writing (June 2

www.efficientvelo.com

 

[indianajo]

I only clean my chain if it gets grass stems, sticks, or string in it. I oil it biweekly with non-detergent oil sus68 and a pump oiler. I occasionally (tire change time, ~2000 miles) scrape the dirt paste off the derailleur takeup sprockets and the drive & driven sprockets onto a paper towel. I got ~5000 miles out of my first 8 speed chain. I've never changed a driven or drive sprocket. ~8500 miles. Derailleur takeup was changed because a stick bent the frame.
I can't lift the bike and instead of a stand roll it over onto seat & handlebars on the grass. No display.

 

[fooferdoggie]

I use this stuff every hundred miles. It cleans it and lubes it.
View attachment 129445

I have used the blue too and the holy cow. I get about 100 or so miles out of an application. but I don't have to clean the chain so there is that. one or two commutes in the rain will take it off too.

 

[fooferdoggie]

I only clean my chain if it gets grass stems, sticks, or string in it. I oil it biweekly with non-detergent oil sus68 and a pump oiler. I occasionally (tire change time, ~2000 miles) scrape the dirt paste off the derailleur takeup sprockets and the drive & driven sprockets onto a paper towel. I got ~5000 miles out of my first 8 speed chain. I've never changed a driven or drive sprocket. ~8500 miles. Derailleur takeup was changed because a stick bent the frame.
I can't lift the bike and instead of a stand roll it over onto seat & handlebars on the grass. No display.

sounds like a messy bike.

 

[mschwett]

every 100 miles or so i lube the chain. every 500 miles or so i spray the chain and cogs with degreaser, rinse, and then run it through the park tool chain cleaner, which as @Alaskan notes can go forwards or backwards. then re-lube.

chain runs smooth and quiet, and despite what you may hear from various fearmongers, i get many thousands and thousands of miles out of my 11 and 12 speed chains.

 

[newts]

I just starting using the Park chain cleaner tool (with some ancient Pedro's citrus cleaner I had). It works great. I re lubed with Rock Star red (dry) lube. It is less convenient with an e bike to use the stand but not that bad.

I am not sure why they have the free-crank on some e bikes. One theory is you could then use a throttle without the pedals biting your ankles like a fixie. But since my bikes, a Specialized and a Gazelle don't make throttle bikes that's probably not the reason. Or maybe partially the reason as I notice sometimes there's a fraction of a second lag when the motor turns off and it probably allows the motor to continue for that fraction of a second again so as not to bite your ankle. My wife's Class 1 Trek has a normal crank so dunno, maybe the motor is not powerful enough to cause trouble.

And now I just upgraded to a belt drive so no more greasy chains!

 

[YoGe]

I have an Efficient Velo Tools EZ lift stand. Made in the USA, down on the Columbia river and very expensive but absolutely awesome.

Whoa! Awesome. But definitely expensive! I'll have to pass on that for now.

 

[YoGe]

I am not sure why they have the free-crank on some e bikes. One theory is you could then use a throttle without the pedals biting your ankles like a fixie. But since my bikes, a Specialized and a Gazelle don't make throttle bikes that's probably not the reason. Or maybe partially the reason as I notice sometimes there's a fraction of a second lag when the motor turns off and it probably allows the motor to continue for that fraction of a second again so as not to bite your ankle. My wife's Class 1 Trek has a normal crank so dunno, maybe the motor is not powerful enough to cause trouble.

Does the motor drive the pedal axle or does it drive the cog? If it drives the cog, then that would explain it, because the motor might, at times, be driving the cog faster than you are pedaling. So relative to the speed of the cog, you'd be pedaling "backwards". Now if the pedal was locked to the cog your pedaling at a slower rate would be fighting the motor which is trying to propel the cog forward at a faster rate. Possibly, not sure...

 

[YoGe]

Never an issue with my Bulls Magura Mt5 are dealer maintained.

Yeah, that's what I have. Two dealers couldn't keep it airtight. It wasn't worth spending two much money on, because it only acted up if I flipped the bike, like to change a flat, but anyway, after pumping the brake a dozen times it would firm up. I put 9,600 miles on the Bulls and the belt started scraping. Dealer said the motor needed to be rebuilt and I may do that someday, but meanwhile I headed over to Specialized. It's a whole different experience. More "me", less "e" but a whole lot less bike too - in terms of weight. The Bulls was about 50lbs! With a spare battery and kit I was north of 60lbs! My Creo Turbo is about half that!

 

[rich c]

I pressure wash my ebike once a week because I ride mostly off roads dusty or muddy trails.
Same time I service drive train/chain etc.
I remove the chain and let soak in jar of motor oil same brand I use for my vehicles. Then replace the missing link with new. It has been 400miles or so since replaced I then used a chain gauge to check if the chain still good and it is good.
I flipped bike upside down, in fact just did it last night after a few Russian martinis.

You aren't concerned about blowing water into the motor under pressure?

 

[mschwett]

Does the motor drive the pedal axle or does it drive the cog? If it drives the cog, then that would explain it, because the motor might, at times, be driving the cog faster than you are pedaling. So relative to the speed of the cog, you'd be pedaling "backwards". Now if the pedal was locked to the cog your pedaling at a slower rate would be fighting the motor which is trying to propel the cog forward at a faster rate. Possibly, not sure...

yes, the motor turns the cog. i assume it would feel strange if the motor directly turned the same shaft that you were pedaling. probably also related the mechanism which prevents you from having to work against the motor’s resistance?

 

[rayray]

@fooferdoggie , @Alaskan : What kind of stand are you guys using? I have a Park Tool stand which I purchased about 20 years ago when I was riding a meBike, but it doesn't seem durable enough to hold the weight of an eBike. What do you recommend?

I have a Park Tool PRS-25 that I bought about 2 years ago, and it can handle ebikes just fine. The listed capacity is 100 lbs, and I’ve had bikes up to 65 lbs. on it. The only issue is lifting the bike to clamp it. If I had more money to waste, I’d buy a hydraulic lift.

 

[TomD]

I lube my chain and cassette every 125-200 miles depending on whether it has gotten wet since the last time or is looking particularly dirty.

When it is time to clean the chain, I put the bike up on the stand, remove the chain from the bike and remove the rear wheel and the cassette from the rear wheel. They both go into an ultrasonic cleaner that warms the water to 140 degrees with a squirt of dish soap. This thoroughly cleans the chain in about 20 minutes. While that is happening I manually clean the front chain ring still on the bike but much more accessible with the chain removed. I immediately blow all the water off the with a cleaning nozzle on the hose of my air compressor.

I reinstall the chain with a fresh new quick link. I get my quick links in cards of 12 on ebay. I then lubricate each roller, one drop per link on each side. My lube of choice is Muck Off C3 Dry Ceramic.

Finally I carefully and slowly so as not to spray the lube everywhere, roll the chain through all of the gears to spread a small amount of lube from the chain on to all the teeth of each cog on the cassette.

This gets me at least 1,500 miles on 11 & 12 speed chains and 3,000 miles on the smaller cogs on cassettes. I replace chains when the are at .5% worn and the smaller cogs on my cassettes when they start to skip or the shifting into the higher gears gets at all hinkey.

Why lube both sides? I think you're only supposed to lube the side that contacts the chain ring and let gravity and the carrier do it's work getting the lube in the roller.

Also why lube the cassette?

FWIW, I also use Muc Off C3 Dry Ceramic and my chain is still going strong at 2500 miles with no sign of wear. Muc Off performed the best in this test:

The Muc Off instructions say to fully de-grease before applying, but in-between cleanings I do a mini clean wiping off the chain with a clean rag (it surprises me how much Muc Off C3 accumulates for a dry lube) and throw another drop on top of each link and let it dry overnight.

Some of the other lubes like Rock-n-roll actually suggest wiping off the chain after each ride:

Remember, to wipe off you chain after riding regardless if you’re going to re-lube or not. This keeps the chain clean and looking great!