How about this to spread the rear fork?

[sed6]

My bike is on order and I plan to change the tires and tubes. Think this will work to spread the rear frame?

Edit to add this picture:

 

[jono1331]

how, exactly, were you planning on using this?

 

[Fatire]

I wrestle with mine every time, it's not exactly convenient, but it's doable. I do end up having to pull the drop outs apart but I manage. A couple of other points, there are special washers involve with installing a wheel with a hub motor. There are videos on-line to watch to understand what they are, how they work and how to install them. Also, the axle is keyed. I would recommend using a wrench to hold the axle to align it with then dropout when you are installing it. Makes it much easier. Good luck.

 

[sed6]

how, exactly, were you planning on using this?

Like this! It's a spreader clamp.

Edit: after watching some videos I'm sure this will work! Beats ratchet straps or prybars I bet. I'll report back when I have my bike.

 

[Alaskan]

Spreading the frame like that will leave a permanant strain, tension and fatigue on the chain stay and seat stay welds. Don't be surprised if those welds fail. I would not want to be riding the bike when they do.

 

[Darceman]

None of this is necessary...if you have the bike upside down it's really not that big a deal. I have had the back wheel off 4 times..it's a bit of wiggling and a rubber mallet..

 

[Alaskan]

If a bike frame is properly made the rear wheel should fit right and drop out and go back in freely once the spindle has been loosened or the axle has been removed. It should not be necessary to spread the chain stays or use a mallet if they were spaced correctly when the frame was welded together. That is a flaw in manufacture which should be handled under warranty.

 

[rich c]

Spreading the frame like that will leave a permanant strain, tension and fatigue on the chain stay and seat stay welds. Don't be surprised if those welds fail. I would not want to be riding the bike when they do.

Absolutely critical to go easy on an aluminum frame. Pretty certain fatigue won't be an issue, there are not going to be that many bending cycles put into the welds. But Just fine for steel, but steel frames are getting hard to find these days.

 

[tomjasz]

I've never had a rear motor where the chainstay needed any more than 1-3mm of hand fitting. DO NOT USE A TOOL AND OVER WIDEN. It would be OK if you spread as much as you can by hand. Methinks you're overthinking. If the chainstay width is 135mm (typical) and the motor is 135mm you should be golden. I do it myself and I'm disabled.

 

[Darceman]

If a bike frame is properly made the rear wheel should fit right and drop out and go back in freely once the spindle has been loosened or the axle has been removed. It should not be necessary to spread the chain stays or use a mallet if they were spaced correctly when the frame was welded together. That is a flaw in manufacture which should be handled under warranty.

There is nothing wrong with the design of this bike read back to the beginning pages everything is fine it's a little bit snug that is it.. you can tap it in easy you're not beating it in..

 

[tomjasz]

If a bike frame is properly made the rear wheel should fit right and drop out and go back in freely once the spindle has been loosened or the axle has been removed. It should not be necessary to spread the chain stays or use a mallet if they were spaced correctly when the frame was welded together. That is a flaw in manufacture which should be handled under warranty.

Most 135mm chainstays need an mm or 2 of movement to fit a 135mm motor. Absolutely no problem if he uses the tool and just moves it enough for the motor to drop in. Your right to suggest caution. But that said my scratch build Marin frame needed about 3mm of spread. I do it by hand. The danger with a tool is being a "tool" and spreading too far. It's a HUGE mistake to spread it enough for much fatter tires than the frame and chainstay were designed for.

 

[Alaskan]

Most 135mm chainstays need an mm or 2 of movement to fit a 135mm motor. Absolutely no problem if he uses the tool and just moves it enough for the motor to drop in. Your right to suggest caution. But that said my scratch build Marin frame needed about 3mm of spread. I do it by hand. The danger with a tool is being a "tool" and spreading too far. It's a HUGE mistake to spread it enough for much fatter tires than the frame and chainstay were designed for.

You have way more experience fitting rear wheels on bikes than I. I am just operating on general principals regarding welded aluminum stuff, based on years of boat ownership, operation and maintenance. Perhaps that does not extrapolate well.

Listen to @Thomas Jaszewski more than me on this topic. He knows way more about bikes than I do.

 

[sed6]

Lots of interesting input, thanks all! To be clear this spreader will be used to gently spread the frames the 1-3mm needed for the wheel to drop in. It just provides a third hand; takes the place of a rubber mallet, a screwdriver, ratchet straps or whatever.

 

[tomjasz]

You have way more experience fitting rear wheels on bikes than I. I am just operating on general principals regarding welded aluminum stuff, based on years of boat ownership, operation and maintenance. Perhaps that does not extrapolate well.

Listen to @Thomas Jaszewski more than me on this topic. He knows way more about bikes than I do.

I never discount your opinions. They are inciteful and logical! I've learned from you and your experience!

 

[Fatire]

I've worked in a bikeshop for years. You are not going to damage the frame moving it 1-3 mm. Whoever said that is being dramatic. Having removed my rear wheel of my XP several times, I can attest that the rear dropout is too narrow. That tool should make your life easier. Heck I was thinking about getting a long threaded rod and and 2 nuts and gently spreading the frame, but I'm strong enough wrestle it in myself. I could see some people having much more difficulty getting it in the dropout. It should definitely not be as difficult to get the rear wheel in as it is. One more thing. The axle is keyed. I recommend putting a wrench on the axle to hold it in alignment while trying to put it in the dropout.