Help with dead ebikeling hub

batpot

New Member
New conversion kit, and I'm getting no response whatsoever from either the throttle or the PAS.
:x


Battery is putting out 40.5 volts, and it's a 36v motor. Controller is set to 36v, and it is showing battery is 100%.

I went through the settings, and made sure P10 is set to 2, which enables both throttle and PAS.
Spec sheet here:
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

I checked the function of the brake cut out switches, and they are normally open loop, so have just left them disconnected, although connected and disengaged made no difference.

Double checked all the connectors and they are well seated.

Tried both throttle and PAS connected to both inputs (3 pin yellow connector), and neither work at either input.

Any other ideas? Have already contacted ebikeling for a return.
 
Did you try holding the "V" button down for six seconds, it should go into walk mode, where the wheel spins at 3 mph? That's my test when I don't have the throttle/pas figured out yet, although with this kit those should be plug/play?
 
Down button on the three button unit. And I believe this is the waterproof connector kit, make sure the round motor connector is fully seated and arrows lined up. It can be hard to seat.
 
Well, that works.
Still, nothing else does. So what does that mean? Bad controller?

Ebikeling said to make p07 and p08 at 100, and both now are, but no change.

Emailed them with updated results. Awesome to see it move...finally.
 
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If walk mode works, it means the motor and its connections are good. That's a good thing. Worst case, you get a new controller.

I'm not familiar with the newer ebikeling controllers. I know with my older one from 2017, it was possible to screw up the P setting and not have PAS working, but as I recall, the throttle always worked. I guess you can ask what other people use on all the settings.

On the new ones, the throttle and PAS connectors are both the same? That's not too cool. On mine, with the crappy JST connectors, they changed the gender between the two connectors, so you couldn't plug them in wrong.
 
Same physical connector, but one is obviously for the throttle, as it's at the end of the breakout cable with the display and the brake connectors, while the other is separate, and short, and requires the long cable on the PAS sensor.
 
New controller worked!
Old one was only putting out 4.3v on the throttle connector, new one is 4.75.
 
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