Sigh, here we go again. The Quietkat Jeep is no longer produced (I bought one of the last ones for %50 off), but this thread raises a number of issues that plague countless other threads regarding the fact that people fundamentally don't understand the differences between various modes of two-wheeled transportation.
First, a 1,000W e-bike is not a moped or a motorcycle. If you think a street legal e-bike is a motorcycle, then you either a) don't know anything about e-bikes; b) don't know anything about motorcycles; or c) both. I own a Quietkat Jeep and I get this all the time from know-nothings on the street, and also for another e-bike I own, a DIY, dual-motor, dual battery bike truck built on an old stump-jumper frame with a gonzo 'mullet' set-up: the front wheel is a 26x4" fat tire and the rear is a 26x2.15". It's not a true mullet, as both wheels are 26", but it achieves the same effect via the tire sizes. Anyway, people see the fat tires and they blurt out, "That there's a motorcicle, derpurp!" Sorry to be harsh, but it's gotten really old: edumacate yerselves, folks. Fat tires are not motorcycle tires, they are meant for slow speeds on sand, mud, snow or grass. Motorcycle tires have a much smaller diameter, and are meant for motorcycle speeds. Fat bikes, btw, have been around forever (probably 50+ years, idk the exact origin). The fact you are not aware of what they are does not make fat-bike + e-bike a motorcycle.
Here are some more fun facts:
1. 250W = 1/3 HP. Hence the 750W maximum, which is roughly equal to 1 HP. The legislation is literally that lazy; it was too hard to wrap their heads around how electric motors work, so they just arbitrarily settled on 1 HP. There is nothing deeper to it than that. So 1,000W = 1.33 HP. My DIY bike has 1,100W total from both motors, equalling a whopping 1.41 HP. That would be a damn weak motorcycle.
2. Electric mopeds and motorcycles are not 'e-bikes'. People derpily call them that following the conventions in the ICE space where 'bike' can mean 'bicycle' or 'motorbike'. In the e-space, the word e-bike specifically and exclusively refers to street legal bicycles with electric assistance at or below 750W, period. This distinction is not just me being a vocab-Nazi, it's very important, because that's how the law defines an e-bike. So when there is a thread discussing, say e-bike laws, and some Karen derp starts going off on a tangent about Stealth B-52's ripping around, and how they need to be banned, it is completely irrelevant to the topic at hand, because a Sur-ron, or Stealth or what-have-you are not e-bikes, they are non-road-legal e-mopeds with way more than the 1kW of power the QKJ has, but still not powerful enough to be motorcycles.
3. One would think, based on the above that my DIY bike and the Quietkat Jeep are therefore even weaker non-road-legal e-mopeds. They are not, for two reasons, one legal, one technical. The legal reason is that both of these bikes have profiles that allow them to be configured as street-legal e-bikes restricted to 750W, which is usually how I ride the Quietkat. There is nothing in any e-bike law that dictates whether the 750W limitation must be applied in hardware or software, or how it is applied, i.e. via a profile or just hard-coded as in most e-bikes. In fact, this limitation is essentially always enforced in software, because that's (kind of) the only way to do it. The only difference is whether it's implemented in firmware or higher level software interfacing with the firmware. Doing so with hardware is almost impossible, because the power must be allowed to vary, and the only way to do that is by varying the amperage; that's how electric motors work. You could do that with hardware alone probably, via cable gauges and some clever electronics, but it's just easier to do it in software so you can mass produce the same kind of motor. Anyway, so the QKJ is only illegal if you run it in unlimited mode. I also have an unlimited mode on my DIY, and tbh honest I usually run that bike in unlimited (more on this later), because it is much peppier in that mode than the QKJ. The technical reason they are still not e-mopeds is that they still don't have enough power (more on that in the next point).
4. The QKJ is a 70 lb., fat-tire e-mtb. The throttle on these bikes is not very useful. I say that after 7 years of riding various e-bikes. The reason it is not useful as a main means of acceleration, except for certain ancillary functions, is again because they are not powerful enough. I call using just the throttle on bikes like this 'golf cart mode', because that's what they feel like. They are torque-y off the line, but that instantly peters out once you reach the top speed the bike can hit without human input, which, even on a class-3-capable bike, is still only about 20 MPH. It's hella weak without the dual input of motor + legs. This is just standard e-bike functionality. So those of you saying someone riding this is weak or lazy--you're about a decade behind the facts, try to catch up with the present day. There are literally dozens of studies showing that e-bikers get more exercise overall, even though they get a little less cardio, and about half the muscle resistance, because they tend to ride longer and more often. Again, an e-bike is not a motorcycle. They are not powerful enough to make you fat and lazy riding them, even with full power. If you want that, buy an actual motorcycle. This is why I only use the throttle for things like: motor-lag checks; hill starts; starts when carrying a lot of weight; light starts; walk assist.
I've tried running the QKJ in unlimited, and it's honestly not really worth it, because you only get another 250W, so top speed is not that high, and yet despite that the motor gets much hotter and your range suffers. So most of the time I ride it in class 1/3. I'll ride in class 1 to preserve range, riding with my dog, family rides, et cetera. Class 3 is my GSD mode for errands. Class 2 I use pretty rarely; it's useful for starts with the dog trailer on family rides. The only time I used unlimited is on return trips from errands when I have a lot of weight, for easier starts. By comparison, my DIY bike truck, because it has dual hub motors, spreads the torque over both wheels. The throttle still is not that useful on that bike for the same reasons, but unlike the QKJ, it feels much more powerful in unlimited mode than in 'speed' mode (class 3) while riding it like a normal e-bike, i.e. pedalling (although even then, top speed is only about 32 MPH). My DIY bike also has regenerative braking, so I don't get a range penalty, and the hub motors seem to stay cooler than the Bafang, probably both because of the statorade I inject them with and the fact that they are in the center of a spinning wheel providing an air-cooling effect.
I've tried upgrading the QKJ to a high range transmission, and I acutally need to start another post about that here or somewhere else, because I'm having a lot of difficulties with that: I've tried a couple of different drive-trains and they both have resulted in weird chain-suck issues in high gears that seem to be related to the torque of the Bafang motor. I have also tried riding it in the sort of extreme conditions in which I've ridden lighter, more agile bikes, and the results have been... physically painful. It is my opinion that this bike is too high-centered and too torque-y for steep, off-road hill climbing. It turns out there is sort of sweet spot for that. I tried this recently and it resulted in my front wheel shooting up off the ground, causing me to fall backwards about 6 feet and breaking a rib. There were other factors involved in my act of derpery, but I still maintain that the QKJ is ill-suited to steep technical climbs. It is crazy torque-y, but still an e-bike, only weighing 70 lbs., and not having enough power to back the torque up. A dirt bike, by comparison, actually has less torque, but much more power, weighs a lot more, and has skinnier tires, so it will shoot up hills with a planted front wheel where this e-bike will just flop over backwards. And this really comes back to what this bike is for... it is perfectly suited to off-road terrain on sand, mud, snow and grass on flat or moderately hilly terrain. That said, it is really well planted for descents. It is however, again very high-centered because of the size of the tires which makes steep technical descents also kind of scary. It is also surprisingly good in a city. It is equipped stock with CST Roly Poly's, which have surprisingly decent rolling resistance and cornering grip on asphalt, but you will of course need to purchase a rack or a trailer for this bike. Trailers work better on this bike imo. Those tires also go up to 30 PSI, which is very high for fat tires, but it means that it works great going back and forth between road/off-road if you air your tires up and down properly for conditions.
In summary, buy a bike similar to the QKJ, i.e. a fat-tire, full-suspension e-bike, if:
- You need an all-rounder e-bike that can handle off-road terrain of various types and road riding
- You understand the difference between a fat-tire e-mtb and a regular e-mtb
- You understand the difference between an e-mtb and a motorcycle
- You have good or excellent bike handling skills
- You don't plan to use it for steep, technical hill climbs (it does fine on steep climbs on the road or fire roads)
- You like e-bikes because you accept that you will still need to put in some exercise
- Use cases: hunting, surfing, fishing, adventure biking, all-rounder with some adjustments for road use (rack, trailer)
Don't buy a fat-tire, full-suspension e-bike, if:
- You don't know what a fat-tire bike is
- You don't understand the difference between and e-bike and a motorcycle--you probably shouldn't be riding either until you educate yourself
- You want a regular e-mtb; just buy one of those
- You want an electric moped or motorcycle and don't want to get any exercise; just buy one of those
- Use cases: DH, enduro, single-track, moto/dirt-biking, throttle only city moped/motorcycle