Has anyone changed the freewheel on the Lectric 2.0?

[gthax]

I got the 11-28 freewheel model that is most recommended for the upgrade on youtube. When I went to install it I noticed the 2.0 model motor hub does not have the washer (spacer) that the 1.0 has. Since there is no washer to take off the new freewheel will sit too far away from the hub vs. the original. The original freewheel has a 4.2mm space from the hub when installed and the new one has a 7.0mm space. As you can see the ridge on the hub. The other 2 pictures show the space difference between the original and the new (recommended) freewheel installed. Does anyone know a freewheel works on the 2.0 model? Thanks!

 

[Johny Rocket]

You can still use the new freewheel. You will have to adjust the deraileur. Watch the Park Tool video on YouTube

. It's actually pretty easy when following the video.

 

[gthax]

Haven't tried it yet. Thanks for the info.

 

[Shark413]

Being able to adjust your derailleur is actual a good skill to know. Because eventually all cables will strech a little which could throw your shifting off and require adjustment.

 

[Deerdog]

Put a Drift Maniac 11-28 on my 2.0 today. I like the gearing but I don't think it will last long because the gears are only half the thickness of the Shimano I took off.

 

[Johny Rocket]

I've had mine on for 3200 miles, it's a hub drive ebike so rarely do you stand on the pedals to go uphill putting very little stress on the drive train right? Use a chain wear guage every 500 miles, a worn chain will damage the freewheel pretty fast though...

 

[Deerdog]

That's good to hear and thanks for the info on checking the chain

 

[Johnny Ding Dong]

Does the drift maniac 11-34 work on the XP 2.0 without getting a longer derailleur? I doubt I ever use the 34 but it's a cheaper part. I guess I could adjust the limits so I couldn't shift to the 34. Might need a longer chain as well...

 

[Johny Rocket]

I've got the 11-34 on a 1.0 and happy I did. If something goes wrong with the power and you have to peddle a 60lb bike up a hill you will be happy for the lower gear. I had to adjust the "b" screw on the deraileur a little to get the chain to work but my chain had about 400 miles on it. When I put a new chain on I kept it with two links more than stock. I don't think it would have worked on a new chain without the extra links. I'm pretty sure Lectric kept the same drive train for the 2.0. Get a kmc or Shimano chain, the cheaper brands have worn out too fast making them more expensive in the end for me. 3400 miles on a 1.0 so far. 2 sets brake pads, second chain (not counting the crap ones) 1 set of tires. Tires & chain at 2000 miles. Pretty good compared to what you get on a regular bike. Met a guy with a 2.0 and let me try it out, I'm so jealous... Better handling with the 3" tire and the wimpy little front shock made a lot more of a difference than I thought it would.

 

[Johnny Ding Dong]

I've had mine on for 3200 miles, it's a hub drive ebike so rarely do you stand on the pedals to go uphill putting very little stress on the drive train right? Use a chain wear guage every 500 miles, a worn chain will damage the freewheel pretty fast though...

You are right, the explanation I read was that the chain gets "longer" over time as the holes and pins wear, and the worn chain will in turn wear the freewheel. All is well until you put on a new chain, and now the new chain pitch doesn't match the worn freewheel, causing skipping. 7 speed components seem a little dated but they always seemed to last a lot longer than the new-fangled 9+ speed stuff. perfect for a utility bike!

 

[Dorkyman]

I rode a big Honda motorcycle for years when I was younger and living in LA and I tried to keep to a schedule to lubricate the chain every 500 miles. I used a spray that came out watery but quickly dried into a grease that wouldn't fly off easily.

I've heard some folks talk about lubricating the rollers. That's not the part that wears--it's the pivot point inside the links. Only way to get to it is to spray the side links on each side. I'd put the bike on the center stand, run it in first gear at idle and do one edge of the chain as it passed over the rear sprocket, then the other. Only took a minute or so. And of course a chain doesn't "stretch." The pivot points inside just wear away over time.

Some big motorcycle chains went so far as to have tiny o-rings inside each link in order to keep the internal factory grease from leaving.

BY ALL MEANS get the 11-34 freewheel. Makes an enormous improvement on both ends. And no adjustments needed except to screw in the B screw on the derailleur clockwise to the stop. Consult the Park Tools YouTube video if needed.

Oh, and no changes to chain length needed.