Ghost Pedaling

leehop71

Active Member
Region
USA
City
Cape Coral
I was just curious if anyone knows if the chainrings are larger on the ‘Commuter’ models that may prevent ghost pedaling?

I have a Denago City 1 and can’t use PAS 4 and 5 because of Ghost pedaling!

I was curious if maybe their commuter bike might be configured differently?
 
The commuter model looks like it has a different rear cassette. From the pictures, the gears look larger. The chainring for both bikes seem to be the same. Rather than changing the rear cassette, installing a larger chainring may be the solution, but that will impact the lower gearing too. @PedalUma has much more experience than me as they constantly build great looking bikes and can probably have a better suggestion about gear ratios.
 
I was just curious if anyone knows if the chainrings are larger on the ‘Commuter’ models that may prevent ghost pedaling?

I have a Denago City 1 and can’t use PAS 4 and 5 because of Ghost pedaling!

I was curious if maybe their commuter bike might be configured differently?
I found out that the Denago Commuter has the same chainring but uses Microsoft as opposed to Shimano, and has 8 gears!

Maybe I need a commuter to eliminate ghost pedaling?🤔
 
The commuter model looks like it has a different rear cassette. From the pictures, the gears look larger. The chainring for both bikes seem to be the same. Rather than changing the rear cassette, installing a larger chainring may be the solution, but that will impact the lower gearing too. @PedalUma has much more experience than me as they constantly build great looking bikes and can probably have a better suggestion about gear ratios.
I think I’ll try riding a commuter at the local bike store and see if that eliminates the ghost pedaling?

Opinion on Shimano (City 1) vs Microsoft (Commuter 1)?
 
Cadence-sensing and rear hub on an entry level bike are going to have this issue. You could try a larger chainring as suggested.
Also just use PAS 4 - 5 on hills.
Both Microsoft and Shimano hardware are entry level on those bikes. I'm partial to Microshift in function but it won't make any difference in ghost pedaling.
The difference between 7 or 8sp will only matter if the smallest cog has less teeth. Equivalent to a larger chainring.
 
To me, the term "ghost pedaling" is rider not using the proper gearing or relying on the motor (not putting much effort) into the ride.
Turn down the PAS level and put more effort into your ride.
if it gets too hard to pedal, slow down and shift to an easier gear.
If you're cruising at top speed with top level of PAS, that's not much effort into the pedals.
Surely, we can all slow down to enjoy the ride, over "ghost pedaling", likely you will have better battery range, too.
 
To me, the term "ghost pedaling" is rider not using the proper gearing or relying on the motor (not putting much effort) into the ride.
Turn down the PAS level and put more effort into your ride.
if it gets too hard, slow down and shift to an easier gear.
If you're cruising at top speed with top level of PAS, that's not much effort into the pedals.
Surely, we can all slow down to enjoy the ride, over "ghost pedaling", likely you will have better battery range, too.
👍
 
I'm partial to Microshift
I also like MicroShift products. For example this bike has a Shimano Nexus seven-speed internal hub of gears. Instead of the original twist shift, I installed a MicroShift trigger shifter that is indexed for Shimano internal hubs. It is much smoother and faster, with less effort. The mid-drive pulls the chain through the gears and this bike cannot be ghost pedaled. It has a 42-t chainring to a 20-t cog for climbing and uses an e-1 chain for durability.

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