Generalized info about original parts.

Raged_Maniac

New Member
Region
USA
I just got a totaled 20" Fat Tire bike by ecotric. Looking for what were the original parts included an if other parts would work. I have no idea what the original 7 speed derailleur is, I know its Shimano but model # unknown. Also original cranks as they are all rusted up. Cassette as well and if the chain is 126 or 136 links as I tried a 116 link an it's way too small. I'm sure the parts are all Shimano just model #s are not known. I got lucky an controller an motor work just had to remove the lock cylinder since keys were gone also can the cylinders be replaced an does anyone sell or make them. Battery works with a screwdriver now.
 
I just got a totaled 20" Fat Tire bike by ecotric. Looking for what were the original parts included an if other parts would work. I have no idea what the original 7 speed derailleur is, I know its Shimano but model # unknown. Also original cranks as they are all rusted up. Cassette as well and if the chain is 126 or 136 links as I tried a 116 link an it's way too small. I'm sure the parts are all Shimano just model #s are not known. I got lucky an controller an motor work just had to remove the lock cylinder since keys were gone also can the cylinders be replaced an does anyone sell or make them. Battery works with a screwdriver now.

The derailleur and all drive components are most likely Tourney. Shamano has offered some OEMs, models of Tourney without Tourney printed on them. You need a 7 speed chain, any brand will do. KMC offers good chains at an affordable price. If you look around you might find a longer chain, but 116 are the most commonly stocked and people will buy 2 and join both, not with a second quick link (master link), but by using a chain breaker. See Utube, look at the Park Tool channel for maintenance videos.

Now would be the best time to upgrade the groupset, drive and shifter components. Tourney is the lowest in Shimano hierarchy. For 10 to 20 percent more money you could have a much better ride experience.

Post pictures when asking questions about parts, you'll get more answers. I doubt any parts are proprietary to that brand. Hopefully it wasn't a stolen bike. Needing a lock cylinder tells people it might be stolen.
 
The derailleur and all drive components are most likely Tourney. Shamano has offered some OEMs, models of Tourney without Tourney printed on them. You need a 7 speed chain, any brand will do. KMC offers good chains at an affordable price. If you look around you might find a longer chain, but 116 are the most commonly stocked and people will buy 2 and join both, not with a second quick link (master link), but by using a chain breaker. See Utube, look at the Park Tool channel for maintenance videos.

Now would be the best time to upgrade the groupset, drive and shifter components. Tourney is the lowest in Shimano hierarchy. For 10 to 20 percent more money you could have a much better ride experience.

Post pictures when asking questions about parts, you'll get more answers. I doubt any parts are proprietary to that brand. Hopefully it wasn't a stolen bike. Needing a lock cylinder tells people it might be stolen.
What's wrong with a second quick link? Did that on my Rad Rover and it works fine.
 
What's wrong with a second quick link? Did that on my Rad Rover and it works fine.
Quick links aren't as strong as the rest of the chain and can become loose and worn out. Adding more quick links just adds another unnecessary part that can wear out and fail. In the case of Shimano, as noted above; if you have an all Shimano drive: chain, cogs and rings, Shimano recommends using their connecting pins. People tend to get ticked off when they buy a new Shimano chain, and it doesn't include a master link. They do sell a master link, but again they recommend using their connecting pins. The longest lasting chains I've ever had have been Shimano. I carry both a master link and two connecting pins in my Topeak tool kit. If a master link takes me 10 seconds to install, a pin might take 20 seconds. There was a time I couldn't be convinced that Shimano chains and pins were better, but since I went with Shimano XT groupset and chain, my mileage per chain has doubled over others I've used.
 
Quick links aren't as strong as the rest of the chain and can become loose and worn out. Adding more quick links just adds another unnecessary part that can wear out and fail. In the case of Shimano, as noted above; if you have an all Shimano drive: chain, cogs and rings, Shimano recommends using their connecting pins. People tend to get ticked off when they buy a new Shimano chain, and it doesn't include a master link. They do sell a master link, but again they recommend using their connecting pins. The longest lasting chains I've ever had have been Shimano. I carry both a master link and two connecting pins in my Topeak tool kit. If a master link takes me 10 seconds to install, a pin might take 20 seconds. There was a time I couldn't be convinced that Shimano chains and pins were better, but since I went with Shimano XT groupset and chain, my mileage per chain has doubled over others I've used.
I'll have to check my chain but I know it's not skipping in any case. I replaced the original chain at around 2500 with a KMC and part of another. It has 4600 on it now.
 
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