G60 Freehub disassemble

[Chargeride]

Heres the inside of the G60 Freehub if anyones interested, not that difficult once you get the bottom bearing out.

As you can see the failure was a broken pawl and it left the spring loose, so they all sat flat.
Perfectly repairable with a kit.

 

[PCeBiker]

Perfectly repairable with a kit.

So, I assume replacing that single pawl or even all the pawls wouldn't be "proper maintenance" ?

What all comes with the kit?

 

[PCeBiker]

I remember "fixing" a bearing on my car a out 30 years ago.
I removed the rear wheels to do the brakes.
The wheels had a pair of cup and cone roller bearings where the preload was set with the axle nut, then you peen a tab on a locking collar that holds the axle nut in place.

I peened and unpeened the tab too many times and it broke off and I lost it.

After my brake job, my car started rumbling/humming/buzzing so I took it apart again, and found that the tab had gotten into the bearing and a couple of the rollers in the bearing had tiny dents/flat spots on them.
I didn't want to pound the race out of the wheel to replace the bearing, so I took a couple of rollers out of an old bearing and swapped them in.

It worked !!
No more noise!
And I saved the ten bucks for a new bearing and the labor of pounding out a race.

 

[Chargeride]

So, I assume replacing that single pawl or even all the pawls wouldn't be "proper maintenance" ?

What all comes with the kit?

I was just thinking new pawls and a spring, its hub so no mad torque, just 10 quid kit off amazon.

 

[PCeBiker]

If you took it to an LBS, they'd probably replace the entire wheel.
Or the whole ebike.

 

[PCeBiker]

I've got my G06 motor apart, but I've decided to leave the freewheel alone.

It's working fine, but I want to take it apart to see what makes it tick.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

May as well clean all the old grease off and apply some new grease.


I’m waiting for the right chunk of time for me to open my motor and install a temp sensor. I have everything I need, except the time to do the work. Which, I have no idea how long it will take, so I’m telling myself it’ll take 3 days.

 

[PCeBiker]

May as well clean all the old grease off and apply some new grease.

Yeah, I took it apart to grease the motor.
I wanted to try my fancy new $50 airplane grease.

I finally got the thing back together today after sitting apart for almost a month.
I spun it up a few times to remove the globs of grease.

Then @m@Robertson talked me into getting a new freewheel for it.
It's arriving today and the freewheel tool by the ene of the week.

 

[m@Robertson]

Heres the inside of the G60 Freehub if anyones interested, not that difficult once you get the bottom bearing out.

Thats awesome to see. I have two of those and have wondered wtf I was going to do if there was an internal failure on something that specialized.

 

[Chargeride]

The issue is getting bearings out without special pullers, there is a bit of play to get the edge of a bar on the bottom bearing from the top, it tapped out real easy.
Then you have a better angle to tap out the top bearing, which leaves a left hand thread lockring with two holes for purchase, just one drift and a hammer knocked it round.
All comes apart them, watch for a handful of shim washers.

 

[SpinningGears]

Yeah, I took it apart to grease the motor.
I wanted to try my fancy new $50 airplane grease.

View attachment 187751View attachment 187752View attachment 187753


I finally got the thing back together today after sitting apart for almost a month.
I spun it up a few times to remove the globs of grease.

Then @m@Robertson talked me into getting a new freewheel for it.
It's arriving today and the freewheel tool by the ene of the week.

Mobilgrease 28 has clay polymers added to it to stop migration, so even when its hot it wont travel to the other compartments, it just stays where you put it, which means you can use less than you think, just make sure all the teeth have a good covering and wipe the excess off, otherwise it may turn into a grinding paste if you get dirt ingress.

Remember new acc. v old member. I build awesome bikes which is why stefan had to get rid - you'll notice a distinct lack of a few things here; emtb builders and emtb folk. We know stuff and do stuff his lordship can't do.

 

[m@Robertson]

The argument against clay-based Mobil28 vs. say SHC100 which is lithium-based is like people screaming "FORD! and "CHEVY!" at a monster truck rally: Never-ending and pointless. It is technically correct that a lithium-based grease is more better. But its also correct that people have been using M28 for many years with absolutely zero problems, and it works a treat. And its one hell of a lot cheaper than a tube of SHC100. All the naysaying about the clay only means something on the internet.

Also, M28 is ideal in the 21st Century as the proper grease for my Garand. Being superior to or equal in every measure to the original early-20th-century spec, which among other things requires sticktoitiveness under strong salt water spray.

 

[PCeBiker]

Mobilgrease 28 has clay polymers added to it to stop migration,

I did some research and found that people are using Mobil 28 and Corn Head grease.
I ended up buying both,..

The Corn grease won't go to waste because it works great for on the cob.
Butter just melts and drips off the cob, the grease stays put.

so even when its hot it wont travel to the other compartments, it just stays where you put it, which means you can use less than you think, just make sure all the teeth have a good covering and wipe the excess off,

It does get flung off the gears though, so I put it together and spun it up with a wrench on the axle then took it apart to remove the globs and spatter.

Then I wiped the face of the gears and the motor casing clean so that hopefully nothing migrates to where it can get flung inside the motor.

otherwise it may turn into a grinding paste if you get dirt ingress.

I noticed that the axle seals were proper seals with the tiny stainless steel coil springs around the inner lip of the seal, and they were doing their job.
No crud got past either seal,..

So I cleaned them up and caked them with Mobil 28 in the grease channel and on the inside of the seal beside the bearing.

The motor plate had a big O-ring around the lip, as well a silicone seal, and I noticed that the O-ring got caught during assembly, pushed out of its groove, and got pinched, so when I put it back together for the final time, I put a bit of grease on the outer hub surface to help the O-ring slide past without binding.

Then I put a thick bead on black RTV silicone around the mating surface and bolts holes of the plate and sealed it up.

Remember new acc. v old member. I build awesome bikes which is why stefan had to get rid -

I've sorts built what I think is an awesome bike,..

Stephan wants me gone too, cuz I have a throttle and I don't pedal.

you'll notice a distinct lack of a few things here; emtb builders and emtb folk.

I initially wanted to get a full suspension emtb, but didn't want to spend that much money on my first ebike.

I want to try a slacker head tube angle now, so I'm thinking about those bearing/race replacements to rake it out more?

We know stuff and do stuff his lordship can't do.

Stephan doesn't know how to ride no-hands, so I post this picture to show him what every child and every professional knows how to do,..