Hello all, I am having a problem with my Rideal. Had a flat in the rear 3 days ago, i replaced the tube thinking it was just a bad intertube and pumped it up, went 40 miles or so and another flat in the rear. I couldn't pump it up while out and had to walk the bike home. I couldn't remove the rear wheel in order to change the tube. Anyways back home now and the hole in the tube is rim side. I can't see anything obvious that would nick the tire from the inside. I will have to investigate the other tire that i had replaced, but i am assuming the hole was from the rim side and not from the tire side, i can't find a nail or anything. Any thoughts?
Flat tube on inside pointing to rim? new ebike
- Thread starter hoboin
- Start date
indianajo
Well-Known Member
Valve holes of new bikes can cut the tube. I usually run a round file through the hole to debur it at the first tube change. Some really cheap rims can have burrs on the metal. Spokes that are too long can poke the tube.
I've got a plastic pan I fill with water if I can't spot the problem on the tube. If I spot the problem by the bubbles, I look at the wheel carefully at same location.
I've got a plastic pan I fill with water if I can't spot the problem on the tube. If I spot the problem by the bubbles, I look at the wheel carefully at same location.
rich c
Well-Known Member
The key to finding your issue is, mark the valve stem location on the tire before removing it. Also mark inside or outside of the tire, I use white chalk. The mark the same side on the tube when you get it out. Find the leak in the tube, then using your chalk marks, find that location in the tire. I also suggest you carry a small hand pump to fill the tire and get you home. Very rare to have such a big hole that you can't get the tube to at least hold some air. Inner tubes just going bad are extremely rare! What kind of tire removing tool do you use. Easy to pinch the inner part of the tube trying to remove the tire.
harryS
Well-Known Member
Earlier this summer, I had especially bad luck with something on the rim side of one wheel poking holes in the upper side of the tube. Cost me two tubes, including a patch, i.e, three fails. Found no rough spots in the area that was getting poked. Finally replaced the rim tape with a thicker brand. OK now.
i purchased new rim tape, will be here later today, i got the velox cloth and tape based rim tape. I also contacted Arial Rider last night and they said they could send a replacement. It will probably take a week or so to get here ( i am guessing they will send a new wheel) so i think i should try to fix it before hand if possible. I have a backup bike thankfully though and can stay off it until the replacement parts come.
When the tire went flat the first time, i noticed at in the morning after a ride. I couldn't pump it up higher than 20 psi before it started letting the air out. Yesterday when the flat happened while i was out riding, i did have a hand pump and a co2 pump but it wasn't pumping at all, very frustrating. I couldn't put air in it or take the wheel off the bike. When i got home i was able to watch some videos and put it on the stand to get the wheel off, was very difficult. I will now try to see if i can spot the cause of the puncture.
Lastly i purchased Tannus armor, that was something i was meaning to get. I am also looking to use flat out or slime inside the tube.
When the tire went flat the first time, i noticed at in the morning after a ride. I couldn't pump it up higher than 20 psi before it started letting the air out. Yesterday when the flat happened while i was out riding, i did have a hand pump and a co2 pump but it wasn't pumping at all, very frustrating. I couldn't put air in it or take the wheel off the bike. When i got home i was able to watch some videos and put it on the stand to get the wheel off, was very difficult. I will now try to see if i can spot the cause of the puncture.
Lastly i purchased Tannus armor, that was something i was meaning to get. I am also looking to use flat out or slime inside the tube.
Sorry i am having problems following you. Mark the valve stem location on the tire, isn't that obvious because the tire has 1 hole for the valve to go through? Why would i mark it. Also once i find the leak, i don't understand how i use the chalk marks. I see that the holes on the tubes are opposite of the valve stem, but off by let's say 10 degrees (180 degrees would have been on the other side, so this hole is 170 or 190 degrees). The problem is either going to be 170 degrees or 190 degrees is my guess. I will look closely at that area now. I am guessing the chalk will allow me to tell if it's the 170 or 190 degree area?
Also i used the cheap tools that the replacement goodyear tire came with to remove the tire. I don't think i have good tire removal tool.
i just looked at the tape and the rim. Tape was barely over the spoke hole. On one of the flats when i tried to pump up air, the air was coming out of one of the spokes near the holes.
Also i removed the tape and there was water near where the hole was but i don't see anything else.. strange.
Also i removed the tape and there was water near where the hole was but i don't see anything else.. strange.
indianajo
Well-Known Member
The chalk on the tire is to focus your eyes on the part of the tire that is over the leak, after you find the leak with the bubble test or by listening to it. Often a shard of metal is poking through. Some tires can have a burr inside from the metal bead or carcass. I had a pair of kenda tires once that came without rubber inside the metal fabric. I painted them with bead sealer before installing.
That weld near the valve hole looks ragged. It is not even filled properly. I'd run a flat file over it. Does the rim flex at that joint? The spoke hole above looks uneven too, two dots to the side. What did you pay for this bike, $189 at Big Lots?
I get very few flats and I don't use armor or slime or heavy duty tubes. Before the new Panaracer FC fell off the rim in June after 2 miles, I hadn't had a flat for 3 years. (Don't buy one, they are $60 of ****). I do use knobby tires with thick tread that runs over the tire shards & glass on the road without punctures. I do manage my rims & spokes for no sharp points.
I use two flat 3/8" blade screwdrivers to pry my tire off the rim. Just don't poke in too deep. Just enough to get ahold of the tire bead. Those plastic toys for sale strike me as funny.
That weld near the valve hole looks ragged. It is not even filled properly. I'd run a flat file over it. Does the rim flex at that joint? The spoke hole above looks uneven too, two dots to the side. What did you pay for this bike, $189 at Big Lots?
I get very few flats and I don't use armor or slime or heavy duty tubes. Before the new Panaracer FC fell off the rim in June after 2 miles, I hadn't had a flat for 3 years. (Don't buy one, they are $60 of ****). I do use knobby tires with thick tread that runs over the tire shards & glass on the road without punctures. I do manage my rims & spokes for no sharp points.
I use two flat 3/8" blade screwdrivers to pry my tire off the rim. Just don't poke in too deep. Just enough to get ahold of the tire bead. Those plastic toys for sale strike me as funny.
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It does not bend at the weld. Arial Rider replied within an hour or so last night saying they would send a replacement, i am guessing they mean the whole rim but not sure.
In the mean time i want to try to make it rideable if possible. I was talking to my boss about the problem and he suggested using a dremel tool to grind the holes to make them smoother, but i feel that is too powerful. I don't really see any burrs or obvious nicks, but the holes don't seem that great in areas and a bit off centered maybe. Could i put a piece of tape over the welding line to protect it and file down the holes maybe?
In the mean time i want to try to make it rideable if possible. I was talking to my boss about the problem and he suggested using a dremel tool to grind the holes to make them smoother, but i feel that is too powerful. I don't really see any burrs or obvious nicks, but the holes don't seem that great in areas and a bit off centered maybe. Could i put a piece of tape over the welding line to protect it and file down the holes maybe?
harryS
Well-Known Member
As you can see on your pictures, there are impressions where the rubber got pushed into the holes. You can even see one spot where the rubber did not cover one of the spoke holes.
Even if the edge of the hole is dull, imagine 50 psi of air pressing your tube against it for a long time. I had another tire that used the rubber strips that also developed rim leaks.
Velox is good stuff. The competing Zefal is so thin, it's no better than rubber.
By the way, I dislike Slime. I bought a tube pre-filled with it, because that was all they had on the shelf last year. This week, I tried to put some air in that tube and the valve was sealed shut. Now I gotta replace the tube, if I can get the tire off with a full tube. If I poke a hole, it will spray goop all over. Ugh.
Even if the edge of the hole is dull, imagine 50 psi of air pressing your tube against it for a long time. I had another tire that used the rubber strips that also developed rim leaks.
Velox is good stuff. The competing Zefal is so thin, it's no better than rubber.
By the way, I dislike Slime. I bought a tube pre-filled with it, because that was all they had on the shelf last year. This week, I tried to put some air in that tube and the valve was sealed shut. Now I gotta replace the tube, if I can get the tire off with a full tube. If I poke a hole, it will spray goop all over. Ugh.
So the question is will the Velox be a temporary fix to get me rolling until they send me a replacement rim?
I'm not sure if i will go with a sealant or not for that reason you describe. I saw a video by Bolton, it almost seemed like an add for Flatout which is like slime, and that should stay liquid longer supposedly so that is the one i was thinking of trying. My goal is to have as few flat tires as possible. If i have to buy new tires eventually, i am willing to do that.
I'm not sure if i will go with a sealant or not for that reason you describe. I saw a video by Bolton, it almost seemed like an add for Flatout which is like slime, and that should stay liquid longer supposedly so that is the one i was thinking of trying. My goal is to have as few flat tires as possible. If i have to buy new tires eventually, i am willing to do that.
indianajo
Well-Known Member
I use nicholson files on bike rims. Round ones through the holes, flat ones on the rim as required.
I've had slime plug up a valve stem & prevent adding air. Had to poke a hole in the tire to get it off. Fortunately it was worn out. I quit using slime tubes, even if the tubes are the same price as generic schwinn ones.
Instead of special rim liners, I've used scotch 33 electrical tape from the home store. The thicker stuff rated 600 vac. You have to poke a hole for the stem, but the spoke nipple holes are not required. I adjust those from the top with a crescent wrench - when required as on my $75 Pacific & Diamondback MTB's. My yuba needs no spoke adjustment.
I've had slime plug up a valve stem & prevent adding air. Had to poke a hole in the tire to get it off. Fortunately it was worn out. I quit using slime tubes, even if the tubes are the same price as generic schwinn ones.
Instead of special rim liners, I've used scotch 33 electrical tape from the home store. The thicker stuff rated 600 vac. You have to poke a hole for the stem, but the spoke nipple holes are not required. I adjust those from the top with a crescent wrench - when required as on my $75 Pacific & Diamondback MTB's. My yuba needs no spoke adjustment.
harryS
Well-Known Member
I wonder how a ebike business can make a profit if it sends a rim with the attached motor for a crummy old flat tire. And if it only sends a rim, that doesn't help much either.
Anyway, the Velox, if you ordered the right width, fills the space inside the rim and will end any future cutting from sharp edges. Stands up to 90 PSI in the tires too.
Anyway, the Velox, if you ordered the right width, fills the space inside the rim and will end any future cutting from sharp edges. Stands up to 90 PSI in the tires too.
yeah not sure what they plan on replacing yet, still havent heard back. I filed down the welding point, much smoother now. I also filed down the holes around the problem area. The current rim tape is 16mm, i bought the Velox 16mm and also 19mm, i have my old bike that needs new tape also so if the 19mm is too big i will try it on my old bike. I feel like the 16mm is just enough to cover the holes, maybe the 19mm couldn't hurt with a little extra protection?
I also purchased a better pump to keep on me, and another pump that is battery operated and rechargeable. I also ordered flatout , and after i install the Tannus armor i will decide if i want to use it or not in that or maybe just my other e-bike. Thanks for all the replies.
I also purchased a better pump to keep on me, and another pump that is battery operated and rechargeable. I also ordered flatout , and after i install the Tannus armor i will decide if i want to use it or not in that or maybe just my other e-bike. Thanks for all the replies.
i installed the 19mm, for sure feels like it will do a better job with coverage over all the holes for sure. Just put in a new tube and pumped it up and went out for a spin, feels good to be back on this thing speeding up hills casually. Hopefully this will fix the problem.
I will get tannus armor tomorrow but maybe i should wait to install it. Maybe i should upgrade my tires with ones with more protection or i wonder if my tannus will be enough. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
I will get tannus armor tomorrow but maybe i should wait to install it. Maybe i should upgrade my tires with ones with more protection or i wonder if my tannus will be enough. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
pawtoki
Active Member
Check out my recent post on this mistery. I would be looking for a burr that will be on a Spoke nipple at the location of the hole in your tube from the valve stem
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