EGO battery
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Thanks for the responses. The plug and wires are definitely not the issue, but it appears as if the 2.5Ah is just not up top the task. However, it will make a fine back-up battery. If I acquire another, preferable 5Ah or 7.5Ah, I will report back on their performance. I am finding them at garage sales for next to nothing (2.5Ah's), and hope to find some larger. I JUST got my Chinese 52v 22 Ah battery ($161) in, and can't wait to see what it has to offer (I'm not expecting a lot!). I'll report back on that as well!
harryS
Well-Known Member
Get one of these. Put it between battery/controller and battery/charger. It will tell you how many AH got used, and how many wwnt back in when charging, When riding, it will show the max current and minimum voltage, so you will know what the battery can supply and how much it sags.
If you're lucky, you get 12 AH out of that cheap pack and $161 would be a great price for 52V12AH, if it lasts.
If you're lucky, you get 12 AH out of that cheap pack and $161 would be a great price for 52V12AH, if it lasts.
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Specifications: -- Bandwidth: DC-100MHz -- Rise time: 3.5ns -- Attenuation ratio: 1X/10X -- Input resistance: 1MΩ/10MΩ±2% -- Input capacitance: 1X:70pF-120pF, 10X:13pF-18pF -- Maximum input: 1X-200 working voltage (Vp-p), -- 10X-600 working voltage (Vp-p) -- Compensation range: 14 - 35pF --...
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tomjasz
Well-Known Member
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My post under an alias...
I used mine for the exact reasons but once i knew the patterns, even this old brain parsed them, I stashed it. I used a couple of zip ties on the wires. Mine came without connectors and I reinforced the wire with double wraps of shrink tubing, but I think a neat tape wrap will do and zip ties are the core of any home built I have.
Somewhere in my archives are the pictures that go with this text. I'm looking....
below from the fella that copied me on his very good mod.
“I ordered the meter without any connectors (bare wires) since I new I was going to lengthen them anyway. I only wanted connectors at one end, as each additional connector is a potential weak link. The wire leads on each side of the meter are 12 gauge. Even though my runs were going to be fairly short, I crimped and soldered about 3 feet of larger 10 gauge red and black THHN stranded wire to the gauge leads with bare in-line splice connectors then covered the splice with red and black heat shrink wrap to insulate the connections. I think the Powerwerx Meter wire ends are called use-2 wire (not sure of this) which is made of many more strands of wire, and is much more flexible even than stranded THHN wire. However it is harder to find and stranded THHH is available by the foot at Home Depot and Lowe’s in both red and black. I would be cutting off the excess later when I was sure of my wire route.
Now I had a meter that could be mounted anywhere, but space is limited on my bike and I had to figure out where best to place it. I found a piece of PVC plumbing pipe with an ID about the same diameter as my stem and cut it off about 2/3 around its diameter so that it would snap over the stem. Next I used a scrap of 1’ x 1/4†aluminum bar stock and cut it to the length of the meter. I centered the ABS pipe on the aluminum and used JB Weld to fasten it (roughly sanding both pieces in the area of attachment for better adhesion). I used a couple of applications of JB Weld for more adhesion. I lightly sanded everything, rounded the edges, and gave this bracket a coat of semi gloss black paint. Then to my dismay, when I snapped the bracket on the stem, I realized it would be placed exactly where I place my hand on the bike to steer it, when walking along side of the bike. Fortunately, this bike is made of oversized aluminum tubing which is almost as large as my stem so I moved the bracket down onto the frame.
Now that I had a place for the meter, I had to mount it and wire it. My first thought was to Velcro it onto the bracket. However, this didn’t hold that securely, possibly since I didn’t want to run Velcro across the entire meter and cover up breathable vents. I ended up using some Velcro but since the meter still wiggled I placed black plastic zip ties on it also. This seems to work, doesn't cover any information, and now I would skip the Velcro entirely if doing it again. Wiring the meter is very straightforward, once the meter is placed on the bike in a place I was happy with. I routed the wires in the direction I wanted them to take and tied them down with zip ties as I went along. The SOURCE side wires from the meter go to the battery. On my bike I left those wires a little longer than they need to be since the can be tucked into my battery bag. Just crimp, solder, and insulate with a colored heat shrink a male or female matchingconnector onto the wires. The wires coming off your battery already have a connector on them and you will have to see which color of your extended wire the needs either the male or female connector to mate with it. Just keep it color coded properly and once this is done, you will not be able to hook up the wrong lead by mistake! The LOAD side of the meter goes to the motor. The connectors are mated exactly the same way as on the source side, but in my case it required fairly accurate measuring of the wire, since I wanted the finished length to be “just rightâ€.
This wiring is called series wiring. In other words, the meter ends up in the middle of the line between the battery and the load (motor). My setup is literally in the middle of the line, but it could be at either end too (even inside the battery bag), as long as it is somewhere in between the battery and the motor. Just a word of caution about the meter. When your battery is fully charged and plugged in on your bike, the meter is “on" and giving you information If you are using it as a “fuel gaugeâ€, it gives you the information you need as long as you do not break the circuit (unplug the battery or motor). If you do, it starts over with information on a partially charged battery, making it hard to know the actual amount of battery left “in the tankâ€. Any type of switch or unplugging the battery in this “series†connection will cause this to happen. I charge my battery, and leave it plugged in until my ride is over and I place the charger on the battery. The next ride starts it over again with a full battery charge. I supposed one could remember where the charge was before they unplugged the battery, and then extrapolate the difference when it got back plugged in, but I haven’t tried this yet The only other issue is that the Powerwerx meter is bright in my garage and at night where I don’t ride, but very hard to read outside in the sunlight where I do ride. I have to stop and cup my hands over it to read it. It also is constantly toggling information which is useless to me while moving, if I want to keep out of the nearest ditch.”
I used mine for the exact reasons but once i knew the patterns, even this old brain parsed them, I stashed it. I used a couple of zip ties on the wires. Mine came without connectors and I reinforced the wire with double wraps of shrink tubing, but I think a neat tape wrap will do and zip ties are the core of any home built I have.
Somewhere in my archives are the pictures that go with this text. I'm looking....
below from the fella that copied me on his very good mod.
“I ordered the meter without any connectors (bare wires) since I new I was going to lengthen them anyway. I only wanted connectors at one end, as each additional connector is a potential weak link. The wire leads on each side of the meter are 12 gauge. Even though my runs were going to be fairly short, I crimped and soldered about 3 feet of larger 10 gauge red and black THHN stranded wire to the gauge leads with bare in-line splice connectors then covered the splice with red and black heat shrink wrap to insulate the connections. I think the Powerwerx Meter wire ends are called use-2 wire (not sure of this) which is made of many more strands of wire, and is much more flexible even than stranded THHN wire. However it is harder to find and stranded THHH is available by the foot at Home Depot and Lowe’s in both red and black. I would be cutting off the excess later when I was sure of my wire route.
Now I had a meter that could be mounted anywhere, but space is limited on my bike and I had to figure out where best to place it. I found a piece of PVC plumbing pipe with an ID about the same diameter as my stem and cut it off about 2/3 around its diameter so that it would snap over the stem. Next I used a scrap of 1’ x 1/4†aluminum bar stock and cut it to the length of the meter. I centered the ABS pipe on the aluminum and used JB Weld to fasten it (roughly sanding both pieces in the area of attachment for better adhesion). I used a couple of applications of JB Weld for more adhesion. I lightly sanded everything, rounded the edges, and gave this bracket a coat of semi gloss black paint. Then to my dismay, when I snapped the bracket on the stem, I realized it would be placed exactly where I place my hand on the bike to steer it, when walking along side of the bike. Fortunately, this bike is made of oversized aluminum tubing which is almost as large as my stem so I moved the bracket down onto the frame.
Now that I had a place for the meter, I had to mount it and wire it. My first thought was to Velcro it onto the bracket. However, this didn’t hold that securely, possibly since I didn’t want to run Velcro across the entire meter and cover up breathable vents. I ended up using some Velcro but since the meter still wiggled I placed black plastic zip ties on it also. This seems to work, doesn't cover any information, and now I would skip the Velcro entirely if doing it again. Wiring the meter is very straightforward, once the meter is placed on the bike in a place I was happy with. I routed the wires in the direction I wanted them to take and tied them down with zip ties as I went along. The SOURCE side wires from the meter go to the battery. On my bike I left those wires a little longer than they need to be since the can be tucked into my battery bag. Just crimp, solder, and insulate with a colored heat shrink a male or female matchingconnector onto the wires. The wires coming off your battery already have a connector on them and you will have to see which color of your extended wire the needs either the male or female connector to mate with it. Just keep it color coded properly and once this is done, you will not be able to hook up the wrong lead by mistake! The LOAD side of the meter goes to the motor. The connectors are mated exactly the same way as on the source side, but in my case it required fairly accurate measuring of the wire, since I wanted the finished length to be “just rightâ€.
This wiring is called series wiring. In other words, the meter ends up in the middle of the line between the battery and the load (motor). My setup is literally in the middle of the line, but it could be at either end too (even inside the battery bag), as long as it is somewhere in between the battery and the motor. Just a word of caution about the meter. When your battery is fully charged and plugged in on your bike, the meter is “on" and giving you information If you are using it as a “fuel gaugeâ€, it gives you the information you need as long as you do not break the circuit (unplug the battery or motor). If you do, it starts over with information on a partially charged battery, making it hard to know the actual amount of battery left “in the tankâ€. Any type of switch or unplugging the battery in this “series†connection will cause this to happen. I charge my battery, and leave it plugged in until my ride is over and I place the charger on the battery. The next ride starts it over again with a full battery charge. I supposed one could remember where the charge was before they unplugged the battery, and then extrapolate the difference when it got back plugged in, but I haven’t tried this yet The only other issue is that the Powerwerx meter is bright in my garage and at night where I don’t ride, but very hard to read outside in the sunlight where I do ride. I have to stop and cup my hands over it to read it. It also is constantly toggling information which is useless to me while moving, if I want to keep out of the nearest ditch.”
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