ebikemotion X35

[MikeDee]

This lightweight, 250W hub based system is used on the Orbea Gain and other light road ebikes from Bianchi, Pinarello, Wilier, and Ribble.

Does it have a torque sensor?

Anyone know when the external bottle battery is coming out?

Anyone having problems with the system?

 

[Jeffr]

I imported one from UK in August. Still not available in USA.
No torque sensor - motor comes on when u start pedaling and turns off about a second after you stop. That’s not a big problem since the motor is so weak you can barely tell when it’s on or off.
External battery is an empty promise. No release date has been given, and when it is, add one year.
After 5 winter months, maybe 300 miles, my system went dead. No response whatsoever to any control input. It’s a now a 35 pound grAvel bike with no assist. Looks very pretty though.
To be fair, Orbea is sending me a new internal battery/electronic control module ( it’s all one sealed unit). I expect to see it in about 3 months- that’s how long it took to ship the bike.
I’m not sure what I’m going to do with it since the ECM must be paired to the CAN bus using a special code, and none of my LBS has a code.
I’ve bought a Raleigh Tamland IE while waiting and I’m very pleased with it. It has the Brose Motor which has been proven on the Levo and Vado. And it’s German, those guys know how to build things.
If I ever get the Orbea fixed, it will go up for sale. Or you can have it now, half price as is where is.

 

[MikeDee]

I imported one from UK in August. Still not available in USA.
No torque sensor - motor comes on when u start pedaling and turns off about a second after you stop. That’s not a big problem since the motor is so weak you can barely tell when it’s on or off.
External battery is an empty promise. No release date has been given, and when it is, add one year.
After 5 winter months, maybe 300 miles, my system went dead. No response whatsoever to any control input. It’s a now a 35 pound grAvel bike with no assist. Looks very pretty though.
To be fair, Orbea is sending me a new internal battery/electronic control module ( it’s all one sealed unit). I expect to see it in about 3 months- that’s how long it took to ship the bike.
I’m not sure what I’m going to do with it since the ECM must be paired to the CAN bus using a special code, and none of my LBS has a code.
I’ve bought a Raleigh Tamland IE while waiting and I’m very pleased with it. It has the Brose Motor which has been proven on the Levo and Vado. And it’s German, those guys know how to build things.
If I ever get the Orbea fixed, it will go up for sale. Or you can have it now, half price as is where is.

That's disconcerting. Where do you live because they are available in the US (I bought one)? These systems are really not user serviceable and depend on an authorized Orbea dealer. I bought mine from Mike's Bikes which is a big chain. I would be surprised if they could not repair my system if it needed it.

 

[Jeffr]

The UK dealer from whom I purchased the bike sent me a new battery/controller module under warranty, with instructions on how to remove and replace. They had already mated the unit to my serial number so there was no configuration required. It wasn’t very hard, took about two hours. Ebikeshop.uk. Straight up honorable guys.
They sent the gen 2 model, which seems to run just a little bit stronger than the gen 1 unit. Probably not, but seems that way.

 

[MikeDee]

The UK dealer from whom I purchased the bike sent me a new battery/controller module under warranty, with instructions on how to remove and replace. They had already mated the unit to my serial number so there was no configuration required. It wasn’t very hard, took about two hours. Ebikeshop.uk. Straight up honorable guys.
They sent the gen 2 model, which seems to run just a little bit stronger than the gen 1 unit. Probably not, but seems that way.

Was it set up for a 15 or 20 mph cutoff? Is there a USB port on the module? How were the gear cables run inside the frame?

 

[Jeffr]

The controller matches the motor which matches the serial number which is tied to the country where it was sold. Since it was sold in UK, the speed limiter is set to 25 kph (15mph).
There is no USB port. The Ebikemotion website has the wiring diagram for bike.
Wiring is straightforward; if you take off the black plastic skid plate on the bottom you see most of it. The only other wiring is the Iwoc button wiring, which comes out of the top of the battery, is routed through the headset, into the top tube. Very tidy installation

 

[Gotbikes]

Just purchased wilier cento 1 ultegra di2. What a waste of money! I got it to keep riding with my younger wife (my knees are pretty bad now @ 70 years). It has no pedal TORQUE sensor so for riding with her f.e. in trying to keep pace with her i have to constantly stop pedaling to slow up a bit or switch it off temporarily which is a big distraction. It's either on or off in one of the 3 assist levels. With the shimano system like i have on a mountain bike I can always keep pedalling when slowing just don't push hard on pedals. I had no idea what a bad design x35 until I had a few rides on it. Without pedal torque sensor it's either on or off. And the iwok switch IS extremely annoying- one has to take eyes off the road and a hand off the bars and toggle through its different settings. very disappointing for my purpose

 

[Deacon Blues]

I agree with you, Gotbikes. A really good torque sensor makes a world of difference.

 

[Jaxx]

Just purchased wilier cento 1 ultegra di2. What a waste of money! I got it to keep riding with my younger wife (my knees are pretty bad now @ 70 years). It has no pedal TORQUE sensor so for riding with her f.e. in trying to keep pace with her i have to constantly stop pedaling to slow up a bit or switch it off temporarily which is a big distraction. It's either on or off in one of the 3 assist levels. With the shimano system like i have on a mountain bike I can always keep pedalling when slowing just don't push hard on pedals. I had no idea what a bad design x35 until I had a few rides on it. Without pedal torque sensor it's either on or off. And the iwok switch IS extremely annoying- one has to take eyes off the road and a hand off the bars and toggle through its different settings. very disappointing for my purpose

Have you tried adjusting the amount of assist supplied in each level? Agree with you on the top tube control though. This year's Gain has a small type of computer on the stem, that does much more.

 

[Drewtaylor]

Hi
I have had my new Colnago E64 di2 for 6 weeks now.
This is my experience:-
The Colnago E64 is powered by the Mahle X35 rear hub motor (same as Wilier Cento 1, Bianchi Aria, Ribble SLe et al).
The maximum stated power output is 250W and the maximum speed is limited to 15mph (UK).
My bike is a Colnago size 52s - equivalent to 56cm in other brands.
I am 5 ft 11 inches tall and the size fits perfectly.
The bike weighs 11.55 kg (25.5 lbs) with pedals.
The UK importer has confirmed that the maximum assist levels are set at Green 75W, Orange 125W and Red 225W.
These are the assist levels at 100% on the ebikemotion app. Lowering the levels on the app, lowers the above levels.
These would appear to be the same settings as the Wilier Cento 1, although Mahle, the X35 motor manufacturer says that their motors are client specific. No two are the same. Attached is a power/speed graph (previously posted by another contributor for the Wilier Cento 1).View attachment 59839
If I turn the bike upside down and spin the wheels, the front wheel spins for 120 seconds, the rear wheel spins for 7 seconds.
The X35 motor does not spin freely, there is noticeable resistance.
To get the most out of the X35 motor you must understand the power curves and the resistance above 15mph (25kph)
The bike has good acceleration from a standing start.
Up hills, the motor is very effective - but not above 15mph. There is no point standing on the pedals. Steady cadence is the game.
Last week I went up Shaley Brow, Lancashire - average gradient 7%, maximum gradient 17% - without getting out of the saddle.
My 24 mile route, including Crank Hill - 4% gradient - used 48% battery charge. I hadn't done that route for 20 years. I am76 years old.
On a more undulating 12 mile route the battery uses 18% charge.
The X35 motor is excellent - up to 15 mph. Once above 15mph the X35 motor is a liability.
The only thing I use the ebikemotion app for is to check the battery level after a ride.
Ebikemotion is a Spanish software company and is now owned by Mahle, the German company that makes the X35 motor.
The question is: Is an e-bike worth it?
If you want it for long flat high speed rides with average speed above 15mph, the answer is no.
However, for rides predominantly up to 15mph, the answer is yes.
The motor effectively cancels out headwinds. For the same effort as previously you can ride the same route much faster.
The downside is that when you stop pedalling the resistance of the X35 motor acts as a brake.
Hope my experience is helful to others contemplating getting an road e-bike.

JMS> Thank you that is very helpful. I have recently purchased an Orbea Gain F40 It has the X35 motor. I also have a Specialised Vado.

The ride characteristics of the X35 motor do baffle me a little. The problem I have is going up hills. That is the time when i need maximum support. However looking at the graph the maximum support in power level 3 comes in at 20kph and so when slowed by the hills the power input from the motor actually reduces when it is most needed.

I see you speak of a steady cadence as being key. I live near Shaley Brow but don't think the motor would get me up somehow { unlike the Vado which steams up no problem)

I will in the next few weeks try though but could you tell me how you got up the brow so easily. I would be very interested in cadence etc . The hill really goes up after the golf club entrance. How did you manage power cadence and speed etc.

 

[Phil Agur]

JMS, I've been riding an Orbea Gain F30 for 7 months now. My goal was to augment but as I rode I discovered my favorite power setting was off.

Now I'm working on riding it off. The stock Kenda 38 tires presented to much rolling resistance, so they are now Continental GP 5000 TL 28f/32r. Great racing slicks.

The pandemic shifted my riding closer to home and into hills, lots of hills. The stock Claris 8 speed was 50/34 and 11-34 came up short. It's now an 11 speed XTR using the same 50/34 chain wheels and a 11 speed 11-42 cassette.

Top speed, so far, 42 MPH DH. (Mine cuts off at 20) On the flat I've seen 24-26 MPH. I would still prefer having a 15 MPH cut off. 15 MPH matches all our multi-use bike trails.

LLE has started ticketing type 3 28 MPH eBikes that show up on the bike trails. Fat tires are easy to spot but I expect a full ban is coming.

My off riding and the Orbea's stealthy appearance should get me through the clamp down. Simon Cowell's crash won't help public opinion.

 

[PidgeE64]

JMS: In general I agree with you. I have had my e64 (manual Ultegra) for just over a year and am absolutely delighted with it. I got it because my arthritic knees were spoiling my enjoyment of cycling - I now smile during and after my rides! In terms of range, I am regularly getting 65-70 miles on the standard battery, and with the range extender (expensive but worth it if you do long rides) I should easily get 100+ miles. (I'm doing the Tour of Cambridgeshire 100 later this year). My rides (in Suffolk so no major hills) average around 18mph, so I am exceeding the 15mph cutoff a lot of the time - but I don't find that a problem - I tend to select level 1, and leave it there unless I need extra assistance. I have not noticed any significant overhead of the motor in the rear wheel but I will try your "upside down spin down" test to see. All in all, I would definitely recommend the e64 for riding at both above and below the 15mph cutoff. BTW - feel free to join the e64 facebook page https://www.facebook.com/groups/ColnagoE64