eBike Storage on an RV Motorhome

Scarecrow

Member
I've been doing a lot of research to figure out how best to carry my new fat tire Juggernaut Ultra 1000 from Biktrix on my Leisure Travel Vans "Unity" RV, a 25ft Motorhome. Biggest concern is theft and exposure outdoors. Looked at a lot of Racks, and Motorcycle or Dirt Bike Ramps. They all left me worried that I was chumming for a Thief by showing the ebike off "in the open".

Finally heard about this box called the Komo RV Chest: http://www.ecarriershelving.com/?category_id=31

E Carrier Shelving is the sole distributor in the USA. Item is built in Canada. Current Sale Price is: $1796, plus Freight and Insurance
Adding up all the components for other carrying methods -- Rack, Chains, Locks, Street Cuffs, etc. came to just about $500 less.

Features UV-resistant Polyethylene construction.
Ability to conceal up to two bikes, and keep them out of the weather.
Plus maybe a spare RV tire.
Or maybe a bag of golf clubs.
Integrated Lock, License Plate Holder and Taillights are included.
Tilt design is included, but not a benefit to me.
Gasketed doors provide weatherproofing.
Weighs about 110lb

Out of sight. Out of mind. At least, that's my thinking. I will still probably run a Kryptonite chain with lock around the frame and down through a hole in the bottom to the RV hitch plate, in case someone pops the lock.

Photo is not my RV -- but nearly identical. I like the look vs. anything else I've seen. I just might be able to fit the ebike inside without removing either wheel or handlebars.
 

Attachments

  • RV with Komo.jpg
    RV with Komo.jpg
    101.5 KB · Views: 15,655
  • Bike in Komo.jpg
    Bike in Komo.jpg
    24.7 KB · Views: 24,749
Interesting product. It certainly solves the issues of theft and weather protection. It looks like you won't be able to tow a vehicle or trailer with the RV though. I'll show this to a friend who is also looking for a way to carry ebikes behind his RV. Thanks for posting.
 
Uhhh, yes, you can! And you can add an actual Bike Rack. Everything comes down to the Tongue Weight and Towing Capacity of the Hitch. See attached flier.

There is a small bit of controversy concerning adding a Hitch Extender, however. eTrailers claims "ANY Hitch Extender reduces that Hitch Capacity in all regards by 50%."
BlueOx claims "We've never heard of such a change or reduction. In our opinion, so long as the Extender matches or exceeds the original Hitch Capacity, it should remain the same." (to paraphrase)

In the case of my RV, a Hitch Extender is required because it is recessed 5-1/2in behind the bumper fascia. The bar that slips into the Hitch Receiver is 36in long on the Komo.

Next, I will discuss size ratios that I came up with...Komo Brochure.jpg
 
For what this is worth...

I received a very rough drawing from the Reseller here in the US, with Interior Dimensions.
I then pulled the dimensional drawing for my BikTrix Juggernaut 1000 and overlaid a rough outline of the Komo to see how it might fit. The red outline and that photo are both in scale with each other. I drew the red outline over top the best photo I have of the box.

My conclusions are...
I might have to place it inside at an angle.
If I can leave the front wheel on, it will need to be turned slightly - but the Komo Depth is only 27in. Not sure how that might affect the handlebar fitment.

Also...
Manon Lachance, the owner of E Carrier Shelving, said he cannot offer any further discount below the current 18%-Off Sale Price of $1796. You can reach him here with questions: [email protected]

He also cannot comment on the Tongue Rating or Reduction issues -- if they exist.
The Komo weighs 110lbs, per that flier. Manon says 150lbs.
The Juggernaut weighs 67lbs. Two would weigh 134lbs.
This puts you at 284lbs.
Adding a golf bag or spare RV tire would have to be estimated.
 

Attachments

  • Komo Rough Interior Dimensions.jpg
    Komo Rough Interior Dimensions.jpg
    768.7 KB · Views: 2,133
  • Juggernaut 1000 vs Komo.jpg
    Juggernaut 1000 vs Komo.jpg
    963.1 KB · Views: 6,187
Not an RV owner, but seems like you will have a lot of misery every time you load/unload the bike and maneuvering it into the shell. Probably need two people. I think you need to test fit your bike in it or get a report from a user who has done so. Good luck.
 
My Cougar travel trailer came within a carrier that folds down on th back of the RV, has post that stands up for holding the bike. I just lock it to the carrier and use a vinyl bike cover , works great and stays dry.
 
There is a small bit of controversy concerning adding a Hitch Extender, however. eTrailers claims "ANY Hitch Extender reduces that Hitch Capacity in all regards by 50%."
BlueOx claims "We've never heard of such a change or reduction. In our opinion, so long as the Extender matches or exceeds the original Hitch Capacity, it should remain the same." (to paraphrase)

I'm not trying to rain on your parade here, I think the product is excellent! I would however investigate the hitch capacity issue further. Simple physics says the longer the drawbar, the greater the force will be on the hitch mounting points. I tend to agree with eTrailer although the 50% figure may not be accurate since it will vary with the drawbar length.
 
Another bit of input that answers the conflicting unit weight reports...
Per Manon:
The box, itself, weighs 110lbs.
The carrier frame underneath that it attaches to weighs 40lbs.
Total before adding your cargo = 150lbs.
 
Not an RV owner, but seems like you will have a lot of misery every time you load/unload the bike and maneuvering it into the shell. Probably need two people. I think you need to test fit your bike in it or get a report from a user who has done so. Good luck.

Good point! And one of my concerns. But the photos may be a little bit misleading in that these are not three feet off the ground. I think the hitch is maybe 15in off grade. My guess is, lifting the front wheel and placing it in the carrier first will not be that difficult -- then the rear (or vice-versa). But I do agree mounting the box will require two, if mounted after assembly to the support frame.
 
Thanks so much for posting this. I have an 18ft Class C that I love the size but have been looking for some type of hitch mounted storage "trunk" and this is exactly what I have been looking for. I like the option of adding an additional bike rack for day or quick trips where I would be with my bike but could store in the trunk if needed for more security.

Nice find.
 
Other than that extra weight placed on the very rear of a coach that may not be equipped for it (thinking gas class A, B or C here), my only concern would be the tail lights. If they are high quality LED types, fine. Otherwise, and I would want some additional (or larger) lighting to feel comfortable in bad weather.
 
Let's see... the hitch load is a tiny bit controversial. I tried to get to the bottom of it, but I can only report circumstantial results. Everybody in the Leisure Travel Vans Enthusiasts Group over on Facebook LOVES this unit, and reports no issues. The only complaint -- if you call it that -- is certain bikes require you to remove the front wheel. But I did determine a few useful tidbits from an owner or two I spoke with. But to start, my hitch rating is 500lbs on the tongue, and 6500lbs tow capacity. There is a two-bar version of this which straddles the existing center hitch -- freeing that center hitch up to still flat-tow a car, at least, or to add an additional traditional bike rack behind it.

The controversy is that eTrailer contends "The use of any hitch extender reduces that tongue capacity by 50%" -- and my RV requires one because the original hitch is recessed 5-1/2" from the outside edge of the bumper. It doesn't matter the weight rating of the Extender, itself -- according to eTrailer. If they are correct, that leaves 250lbs, minus 150lbs for the one-bar version (110lbs for this box, plus 40lbs for the support frame and attaching bar). That leaves 100lbs for the eBike and a few extras.

BlueOx and a few other Hitch Manufacturers disagree. BlueOx said they've never heard of any studies or reports or proof that this reduction in capacity is universal. Most will not give an answer, either way. Of course, they all agree, if you need no Extender -- this is a moot point. You are back to the original Hitch Capacity. One mechanic believes the hitches are designed to exceed the rated capacities by a wide margin. He thinks the companies would be foolish to tell you it holds 500lbs -- and watch it break at 501lbs. The down forces as you go over bumps and dips in the road probably are taken into account. Still, I can't put my hands on any scientific study -- although, countless Forum "experts" certainly like to weigh in with their math and physics calculations. And I have no reason to not trust them! Sometimes you just gotta say "What the f---!" and get on with it.

One owner of the Komo likes the two-bar setup for stability. Another owner -- and the US Distributor -- says the single-bar is "perfectly adequate". I will find out and keep you posted.

As to the design, there are several features not articulated well in the somewhat poorly-produced flier. All good! For example, the center post inside the unit is removable, with thru-pins at the top and bottom (think: I can add keyed locks instead of pins). That bar comes equipped with fitted tubular foam bumpers to protect the bikes -- as you see in the video. The lighting feature does require a 7-pin to 4-pin adapter to fit most hitches -- I will report on the effectiveness of the lights. I think my RV is a bit wider at 8ft, and those tail lights are on the far outside corners -- so I should be okay. Not sure what a car might look like. Finally, the material is certainly easily-drilled in order to add a front fork stationary mount to the floor, if desired.

Nobody is suggesting this will stop a determined thief. Does anything, really? I bought a Kryptonite Chain Lock, and an undermount seat light with alarm, and a different lock to try and secure it further. I do not think the box can be cut open with a box-cutter, but a determined guy with a battery-powered grinder or saw will draw more attention. Getting the bike out from behind the post and off two chains and lock combinations might further slow him down. Time will tell. When I store the RV for long periods of time, I will probably move the bike into the body of the RV, itself. But that opens up a whole new discussion amongst the experts about just how easy it is to break into the RV! I can't win. So I don't try. This is being thrown out there as the best idea I can find to offer "Out of sight - Out of mind" storage -- and I think a lot of theft comes down to convenience and opportunity. With an estimated 1.5 Million bikes being stolen every year -- there's a LOT of that!
 
Let me add another thought. This is probably not a practical solution for guys using a pick-up truck or family car to go out on a weekend day jaunt. Too expensive, and too many compromises. This is for someone like me with an RV that might be gone a week or more (I travel a month at a time, as a semi-retired individual -- work a month, off a month). This requires me to park in various places overnight -- such as Walmart parking lots, lonely side roads, isolated BLM areas, and established RV Parks. These might be State or National Parks, depending on my wanderings. I hope I will feel more relaxed in those situations than if I had it sitting on a typical rack, under a vinyl cover. I don't know, but that screams "Please STEAL ME!" -- in my mind. Followed by "Just wait for the driver to get lost on a one-hour shopping spree inside that Walmart!"
 
I worked as a service manager for a large metro Detroit RV dealer for 20 years early in my working career. My comment above is regarding the non OEM frame rail extensions that MANY MH hitches are bolted to. It's generally not the hitch that's the concern with loading like this, it's what the hitch is bolted to...... Often the floor of the coach carries much of the actual tonge weight loads.

If you think Ford, or Chev. or Dodge supplies those extensions, you'd be very wrong. It's the coach manf. that does that for you. They attach an extension to the OEM frame rails to extend those too the rear, often supplying very questionable materials and engineering to extend the chassis manf's frame to a sufficient length making a hitch possible. That's how you get hitches that are tucked 5" forward of the rear wall of the MH for instance.

My suggestion is that you crawl under the rear of your coach and have a look at the area I'm talking about. Hopefully you'll see nothing wrong and just think I'm nuts. The fear is you'll see what I did on way too many occasions....
 
I am now camped at Lake Mayfield in Mossyrock, WA - and finally got a chance to revisit this subject to give you all an update. I received the Komo in good order at the RV dealership in Sandy, OR - just in time for my visit. The Biktrix Juggernaut arrived about the same time after a mix-up on shipping instructions (which Biktrix corrected). Here is my report, in case it helps...

So, yes, I did receive both the eBike and the Komo Bike Carrier at Johnson RV in Sandy, OR -- both in perfect shape. And I wanted to post a quick update, to start, on the Komo RV Chest.

As noted by another Member in a separate Forum for RVs, this is what I found: You do NOT need a Hitch Extender to install this on our Leisure Travel Vans "Unity" Model - well, at least on my 2017 model. I bought the single-arm support version because the double-arm costs $250 more. And the distributor reassured me that a single-arm was more than adequate.

Why are there two versions? Simple: The Single-Arm will occupy your main Hitch, so it eliminates the possibility of also towing a vehicle -- which you can do with this box installed, if you choose. The double-arm avoids the original Hitch, leaving it available to tow a car. You would NOT want to attach a car to the rear end of the included Arm supplied with this box. Instead, they ship you two add-on Hitch Brackets that you bolt onto the crossbar of the towing setup, on both sides of the existing Hitch area. You would then need an extra-long Tongue Bar to attach your toad to the original Hitch, while retaining ALL of your original Towing Capacity (minus any effect the box subtracts from that). KEEP IN MIND there are a ton of "differences of opinion" concerning how Hitch Extenders and longer Towing Arms affect Towing Capacity. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH.

The two-arm setup may appear more stable when careening down the road. But I did not notice any amount of shaking or severe sway when viewing my setup through the rear camera and doing 65mph. Or going over bumps, pulling into parking lots, etc. Yes, you can move it up and down, yourself, but it does NOT appear to be unsafe or weak.

The single-arm version, therefore, eliminates any concern over "reducing the Tongue-Weight capacity by 50%" -- as claimed by eTrailer, and NOT claimed by BlueOx (as an example of various Hitch Extender manufacturers which dispute eTrailer's findings). Our Hitch retains its 500lb tongue capacity. Keep in mind that most Hitch Extender Manufacturers will not comment, either way, for what that's worth.To repeat myself, KEEP IN MIND there are a ton of "differences of opinion" concerning how Hitch Extenders and longer Towing Arms affect Towing Capacity. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH.

Side Note: The distributor claims this weighs 150lbs, total. Being 110lbs for the box, plus 40lbs for the frame. But my BOL on that shipment stated it was 110lbs, total -- and I did not have any way to actually weigh this. The BOL may not prove anything.

There is a catch, however - if it matters. That center arm is long enough to extend past the Komo box for one reason: So you can also add an extra, normal Bike Rack to the rear, if you wish. In fact, the bottom frame comes in a forward position on that arm, upon delivery. If you were to mount the box in that position, it would hit the rear of the RV because our Hitch is recessed inward 5-1/2in from the outermost rear bumper edge. But if you loosen the bottom mounting bracket, you can slide the frame almost to the end of that arm -- allowing the box to clear the rear fascia by several inches. This eliminates the ability to attach a traditional rear bike rack. Such a rack would be a real pain because you'd have to either buy a tilting type in order to open the rear doors of the box, or remove it each time.

Next, this kit for the box is really solidly-built. The plastic shell is quite strong. The weather seals are substantial. The dealership (Johnson RV) installed it free-of-charge within a half-hour. They commented how much they liked it. And how nice the LED taillights are. They were impressed!

The bottom frame with the tongue bar comes as one section, pre-assembled. The support frame is hinged so it can tilt backwards. The box is a separate piece that bolts onto that support frame. CAUTION: Attach the tongue bar first -- and USE A HITCH PIN to secure it BEFORE lifting the box into place. None of this is really a one-man operation, but one person can probably lift the frame into position, easily-enough. But not the box, in my opinion.

You will need to buy a Locking Hitch Pin (if desired), and a 7-pin to 4-pin Converter to hook-up the taillights - including the tag light. But this adapter depends on your existing hitch light setup. Your Brake Lights, etc. all still work and are visible at the same time as the lights on the Komo box since it is less-wide than the Unity coach (check the width on your car if setting this up on an automobile). The rear taillights on the box also act as blinkers, indicating a turn. They do not interfere with your coach taillights in operation.

You will NOT need a locking clamp/wobble stabilizer for the Hitch/Support Arm attachment, as it comes equipped with that. This keeps the entire assembly from rattling or banging within the Hitch, itself. So, really, the only extra bits I had to buy were the Locking Hitch Pin and Lighting Adapter (I added-in dielectric grease, on a recommendation).

This was the Wobble-Stabilizer I pre-purchased, but have returned:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This was the Locking Hitch Pin that I kept:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This was the Lighting Adapter that I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note: All of these components from Mictuning seem to be of high-quality.

Unfortunately, my large Biktrix eBike does not fit with the Front Wheel installed. I must insert the bike with the front facing left (driver's side) because the kickstand creates an issue if it is facing right - it doesn't allow the bike to be angled and inserted deep enough in the box cavity, forcing the handlebars out just a tad too far).

The internal support post does come with two fairly substantial flip-lock pins, but they are a PITA to align with the holes in the top and bottom mounting channels. They also include three thick foam repositionable collars (plus one fixed collar, for a total of four) to help protect the bike when placed against that post -- and two Velcro tie-straps. There are also two fiddly Snap-Lock D-Pins that I find to be "problematic". This might become easier, once I get used to them. But I plan to replace them with something that locks with a key to make that post mostly non-removable by a thief (or at least, an irritant). The holes are too tight to that pin diameter, so leaning the post cannot work, and alignment under the best of conditions is irritating -- I plan to drill out each hole a bit larger.

Let's talk about that rear door lock. Nobody is suggesting this box will stop any determined thieves. But the lock actually rotates into a 1/4" rod assembly on the opposing door. That rod is in two sections which protrude upwards and downwards as you rotate its control handle. Those rods extend about 1/2" behind the inner right-side aluminum door channels, across the top and bottom of the opening -- thereby, locking the right side fairly snugly at the top and bottom. So it isn't just a tiny flip-lock that you might laugh at on your side bin doors on the outside of the coach.

The only confusing part during the install was the small chain that comes pre-installed to the frame. Like most MEN, we did not read the instructions until after-the-fact! This attaches to the bottom of the box so it can tilt backwards. Used mostly with a car setup where you have a rear hatch. No real use to us on the Unity -- and certainly NOT a security or safety chain (our first guess). There was a rough Xeroxed instruction sheet inside the box, which cleared up the confusion. There were no other instructions included.

To be fair, I must say all of this has been happening between bouts of light and heavy rainfall since this the 29th of November. I did take the eBike to a local bike shop, Sandy Bikes -- and would like to give a big shout-out to the owner there for his patience and understanding. It cost $100 to get the eBike setup and tuned -- such as it was. The rain was coming down hot and heavy as we were loading it that Friday night. I actually drove off and left an empty large suitcase rolling around in his parking lot, which I retrieved within an hour -- but that's another segment to air soon on "Scarecrow's Hilarious Mishaps!"
smirk.gif


I am adding photos as best I can here.
 

Attachments

  • 20181130_160707.jpg
    20181130_160707.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 3,018
  • Completed Rear.jpg
    Completed Rear.jpg
    79.4 KB · Views: 4,254
  • Bar Attachment.jpg
    Bar Attachment.jpg
    168.3 KB · Views: 1,402
  • Frame Before Adjustment.jpg
    Frame Before Adjustment.jpg
    620.2 KB · Views: 3,361
  • Lock.jpg
    Lock.jpg
    75.4 KB · Views: 1,400
  • Bar Lock.jpg
    Bar Lock.jpg
    172.5 KB · Views: 1,272
  • Tilt Chain.jpg
    Tilt Chain.jpg
    552.6 KB · Views: 1,920
Below, these photos show the reconfiguration I came up with to fit the Juggernaut (a rather large fat tire eBike) completely into the Komo WITH the handlebars still attached. It is angled with the Front Fork pulled forward at the left, and the Rear Wheel pushed all the way back at the right.

The Front Fork is actually sitting just a bit on top of the bottom ridge that creates the Door Opening.

Letting air out of the Rear Tire would help. I used one of the removable foam bumpers to protect the front fork and its brake assembly - temporarily (I want to find a better option there to remove that pressure-point). I padded the ends of each handlebar to prevent scrapes or wear.

NOTE: This ebike install did NOT go unscathed, so you will need to be patient and aware of limitations. My seat, the crank bars, and the handlebar removal clamp assembly all suffered a little -- and this is a brand new bike! Ouch!! I blame some of this on cold rain falling while I figured this out, or forcing the bike into the compartment in the dark.

This does fit with handlebars measuring about 28" wide, and comfort grips installed, as well. 1" less on the width would make a huge difference. Not running fat tires would help immensely. I could NEVER get two ebikes in here while carrying the Juggernaut. If your bike is smaller, or setup for street riding, my guess is you will have no problems. Two folding bikes could fit in here easily. I now have a full-size suitcase stored in here, along with the Juggernaut. In fact, two friends I met with on this trip use Sondors Folding Fat-Tire eBikes, and they feel they would both fit in here, while also keeping their bikes very clean.

I have not actually ridden the Juggernaut for several reasons. The Wren Inverted Fork may be replaced if I cannot resolve the "no fender" issue. And I have pulled a few muscles at the very beginning of this trip, affecting my ability to raise my right leg, or climbing into my RV. Sorry! Wish I could give a report on the eBike, itself. Build quality seems to be excellent.
 

Attachments

  • Pad Axle.jpg
    Pad Axle.jpg
    72.6 KB · Views: 1,189
  • Position Pedals.jpg
    Position Pedals.jpg
    55.8 KB · Views: 1,296
  • Bike Fits.jpg
    Bike Fits.jpg
    64.4 KB · Views: 2,805
  • Pad Both Handlebars.jpg
    Pad Both Handlebars.jpg
    63.2 KB · Views: 1,523
I worked as a service manager for a large metro Detroit RV dealer for 20 years early in my working career. My comment above is regarding the non OEM frame rail extensions that MANY MH hitches are bolted to. It's generally not the hitch that's the concern with loading like this, it's what the hitch is bolted to...... Often the floor of the coach carries much of the actual tonge weight loads.

If you think Ford, or Chev. or Dodge supplies those extensions, you'd be very wrong. It's the coach manf. that does that for you. They attach an extension to the OEM frame rails to extend those too the rear, often supplying very questionable materials and engineering to extend the chassis manf's frame to a sufficient length making a hitch possible. That's how you get hitches that are tucked 5" forward of the rear wall of the MH for instance.

My suggestion is that you crawl under the rear of your coach and have a look at the area I'm talking about. Hopefully you'll see nothing wrong and just think I'm nuts. The fear is you'll see what I did on way too many occasions....
Reviving this ancient thread since I've never seen anything like this, and the OP last visited a year ago.
I have an older (2010) class b sprinter conversion (25 foot long) a Winnebago ERA 170,20210307_115111.jpg20210307_115236.jpg .
Pics of hitch and undercarriage with mount and spare tire.

I am concerned about hanging something heavy on the hitch. My 2 comos are only about 40lbs each w/o batteries, but this box is apparently 150 lbs. I won't be towing a car, that's what the bikes are for, but don't know how to tell if this is even safe at highway speed. Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
My thought is this thing looks like an expensive pain in the rear. I carry a bike or two on the rear of my class A and I use a good rack (1Up USA), a custom made to fit bike cover, and good locks. Never had a problem.
 
Back