indianajo
Well-Known Member
Many jurisdictions limit the sale of ebikes to 750 w. Thus it is hard to find a 1000 w one for sale.
It is still legal to sell a 1000 w or 2000 w hub motor, just not a bicycle. So conversion of an existing bike matches your budget. I had a 1000 w Mac12t that was a great performer on the >80 hills of my weekly commute. Unfortunately it had an ASI controller that burnt a pin off in the rain 7/14. I'm having trouble finding a replacement in country. I've seen an opinion that EM3EV has some if you don't mind your debit card # being on a foreign server & database.
I had my motor on the front of the bike left. Don't power a front hub motor on ice, wet metal plates or wood decks, slick rock, or similar low traction situations. You might fall down. I have a brain & pedal or push the bike with my feet in those situations.
Geared hub motors overheat on slow hard climbs of 30 minutes or more. Mac has stated so. If you intend to climb the rockies or sierras, 1000' or more, a direct drive hub motor is less likely to burn up. It will chew up vast quantities of watt hours doing it. I had one.
The inevitable choir of mid-drive pushers has not dropped in here yet. To most posters here, hill=mid-drive. They chew up chains and require pedaling against resistance if the electricity or chain fails, say in a heavy rain. Brose Yamaha & shimano steps have an internal clutch that solves the drag unpowered problem, but they can't power you home after a chain or derailleur fault the way my geared hub motor will. I destroyed a deraiilleur takeup running over a stick in June. Oh, well, humm all the way home. Throttle only, of course.
My Mac12t was good for about 23 mph on the flat with 26" wheels. They have a 10t model if you want to go faster, at the cost of less efficiency on the hills. My watthours used decreased by a fourth or third when I went from a ebikeling 1300 W geared hubmotor, to the Mac12t. Wore out the gears on the ebikeling motor, about 4500 miles.
Be sure to use a substantial torque arm with a high torque motor like the mac. No carbon fiber forks or suspension forkes, either. My fork is steel. There are Mac motors for sale on e-bay with the wires twisted off. I use a sawed out piece of bed frame rail about 4" long x 1" wide. I made the axle hole by drilling 2 5/16" holes and connecting the dots with Nicholson files. I capture the arm to the fork with a clamp made of box fan shell. There is a video on u-tube of some idiot who twisted the wires off his mac by using a commercial torque arm 2 1/2" long captured by a worm type hose clamp. Ha!
It is still legal to sell a 1000 w or 2000 w hub motor, just not a bicycle. So conversion of an existing bike matches your budget. I had a 1000 w Mac12t that was a great performer on the >80 hills of my weekly commute. Unfortunately it had an ASI controller that burnt a pin off in the rain 7/14. I'm having trouble finding a replacement in country. I've seen an opinion that EM3EV has some if you don't mind your debit card # being on a foreign server & database.
I had my motor on the front of the bike left. Don't power a front hub motor on ice, wet metal plates or wood decks, slick rock, or similar low traction situations. You might fall down. I have a brain & pedal or push the bike with my feet in those situations.
Geared hub motors overheat on slow hard climbs of 30 minutes or more. Mac has stated so. If you intend to climb the rockies or sierras, 1000' or more, a direct drive hub motor is less likely to burn up. It will chew up vast quantities of watt hours doing it. I had one.
The inevitable choir of mid-drive pushers has not dropped in here yet. To most posters here, hill=mid-drive. They chew up chains and require pedaling against resistance if the electricity or chain fails, say in a heavy rain. Brose Yamaha & shimano steps have an internal clutch that solves the drag unpowered problem, but they can't power you home after a chain or derailleur fault the way my geared hub motor will. I destroyed a deraiilleur takeup running over a stick in June. Oh, well, humm all the way home. Throttle only, of course.
My Mac12t was good for about 23 mph on the flat with 26" wheels. They have a 10t model if you want to go faster, at the cost of less efficiency on the hills. My watthours used decreased by a fourth or third when I went from a ebikeling 1300 W geared hubmotor, to the Mac12t. Wore out the gears on the ebikeling motor, about 4500 miles.
Be sure to use a substantial torque arm with a high torque motor like the mac. No carbon fiber forks or suspension forkes, either. My fork is steel. There are Mac motors for sale on e-bay with the wires twisted off. I use a sawed out piece of bed frame rail about 4" long x 1" wide. I made the axle hole by drilling 2 5/16" holes and connecting the dots with Nicholson files. I capture the arm to the fork with a clamp made of box fan shell. There is a video on u-tube of some idiot who twisted the wires off his mac by using a commercial torque arm 2 1/2" long captured by a worm type hose clamp. Ha!
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