Dual Powered E-Bikes…Worth it?

Cybersnow

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USA
In looking for a more powerful e-bike I see a number of adds (especially on Amazon) for dual powered bikes. Are these bikes being made as cheap mopeds or do you even pedal them? Is it safe to assume there are two batteries that need to be charged? Does anyone make one that is as reliable and supported as most of the mainstream bike vendors?
 
In looking for a more powerful e-bike I see a number of adds (especially on Amazon) for dual powered bikes. Are these bikes being made as cheap mopeds or do you even pedal them? Is it safe to assume there are two batteries that need to be charged? Does anyone make one that is as reliable and supported as most of the mainstream bike vendors?
Member @m@Robertson made one. Maybe he'll chime in.
 
I did it for about 5 weeks with two MAC 10T motors. Were I rural, on a farm, and some elevations to climb, I'd do it again. As a street bike IMO it overkill. Powerful bikes can be built with better quality parts then on many 2WD already configured. And it's really not difficult these days with higher quality parts from places like ebikes.ca A Canadian reseller with great stuff. I'm a fan again of BBSHD bikes over 2wd
 
If I rebuild a bike then it will be with a BBSHD. I am not familiar with the Chinese dual powered bikes on Amazon. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with a vendor in the US or Canada and if I could get their thoughts.
 
In looking for a more powerful e-bike I see a number of adds (especially on Amazon) for dual powered bikes. Are these bikes being made as cheap mopeds or do you even pedal them?
Depends on the bike. Some - particularly the adventure bikes from the hunting bike folks - are pedalable.

I think its a mistake to see a dual-motor bike as a powerhouse. The benefits of 2wd are really achieved thru distributed traction. Done right, the fact you have two motors can be entirely seamless with dual PAS, where the bike just launches with a level of ease and controllability you can never touch with a rear wheel drive no matter how much power you pump into it. It just works better.

Street bikes. Dual hub. I would never do a dual hub again but they were a blast as fast, pedaled pavement commuters. The reason is hubs are great on flat land and I live in hills now. I put about 7000 miles on the orange one which is the only one I still have..
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The permanent solution to the limitations of using two hubs is to put a mid drive in the back instead. At that point you have a bike that can go anywhere (deep dry sand) and climb anything without strain. Since that pic was taken I switched to a Box2 XW rear derailleur and a pie plate cassette.
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Is it safe to assume there are two batteries that need to be charged?
In years past, yes. In the present day occasionally no. Typically you see standard off the shelf packs used. They may or may not have a single-charge solution built in. Given the varying quality of 'battery blenders' out there, I would not trust that. There are one or two companies that sell a single XL battery that feeds both motors at once, which means it has to have a really hi-cap BMS. They need to be in the 80a-plus continuous output range which you will never find in a generic pack.

Does anyone make one that is as reliable and supported as most of the mainstream bike vendors?
No (provisionally). E-Cells is probably the oldest vendor in this space but given their horrible record for truth-in-advertising, I would not trust them under any circumstances. Generally speaking I have a VERY low opinion of manufactured 2wd ebikes. The only one that has a shot at acceptable reliability/support is Ubco, a New Zealand company that markets their bikes as reliable farm, patrol and military use bikes. But last I saw they didn't have pedals. If they have grafted some on I have to believe they are not meant to truly be used.

For a completely different take, take a look at Christini, who do true AWD and not 2WD. One motor and an ingenious differential between the two wheels so when the back wheel slips, the front wheel takes over. Not the same thing as what you are asking for though. Christini did awd motorcycles first and sold some to the US Air Force for base patrol IIRC.

Store-bought 2wd bikes tend to command a premium price for doing you the favor of a Version 1.000 implementation of 2wd. They often dumb down the functionality, trusting that the noob rider will be so happy with what they get, their lack of experience will mean they never realize what they are missing out on.

Probably Aniioki has done the best implementation of the concept in terms of providing features. Their super duper model is well thought out, but its unique beefed up brake rotors are so unique there's no source for replacement. There is no sign the manufacturer sells them, and if they do, what happens if they run out or go out of business? A 3rd party source for such a basic wear item needs to exist.

2wd is great stuff, and it is well worth having. Especially if you treat its prime benefit as distributed traction, not increased speed (two motors are not faster than just one as the hub motor still has its rpm limit; but 2 motors working as a team do accelerate quite a bit faster, and a front motor completely eliminates all wear that a mid drive visits on the drivetrain).

 
If I rebuild a bike then it will be with a BBSHD. I am not familiar with the Chinese dual powered bikes on Amazon. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with a vendor in the US or Canada and if I could get their thoughts.
I go pretty deep into this in my awd series, linked above. If you are building a bike, thats the only way to do awd and not get screwed.
 
What an amazing write up…thank you! Not only did you teach how to build an awd bike but you explained a lot about how and why my current bike is acting. I am not really interested in an electric moped or scooter but just a little more power assist as I pedal up a steep hill. I do need the exercise and tend to cruise at about 19mph on the flats and have been passed multiple times by riders using throttle only. Although I will give a lot of thought, as I will soon be back home in the mountains surrounded by several feet of snow, to taking one of my barn mtbs and playing with building it into an awb. Should I be considering buuying a fat tire bike instead of my hardtail steel standard mountain bike?
 
What an amazing write up…thank you! Not only did you teach how to build an awd bike but you explained a lot about how and why my current bike is acting. I am not really interested in an electric moped or scooter but just a little more power assist as I pedal up a steep hill. I do need the exercise and tend to cruise at about 19mph on the flats and have been passed multiple times by riders using throttle only. Although I will give a lot of thought, as I will soon be back home in the mountains surrounded by several feet of snow, to taking one of my barn mtbs and playing with building it into an awb.
Yeah I am primarily a pedaler, and my daily drivers nowadays are cargo bikes that haul a lot of weight on Costco and grocery runs. I'm doing an online order pickup at Home Depot today in fact. And I live at the top of a hill, so I make VERY good use of that second powered wheel. A 2wd ebike with mild power to the front wheel is a big help on hills regardless of whether or not you are carrying anything. With dual PAS, what you get is nice, smooth takeoffs from a standing start, and you also lose the need to downshift at a stop to preserve the drivetrain from the power of the BBSHD. The front motor PAS engages just a hair before the PAS of the BBSHD and thus the HD is never trying to grunt up the bike from a dead stop. My fat tire adventure bike was left in its 11T cog while I used it as a flatland commuter for a short time. It took me 1000 miles to put a crack in the 11T (Shimano alloy) cog and need to replace it... ordinarily you'd expect trouble in the ballpark of just 50 miles. Also distributed power taking load off the drivetrain means my chains last ridiculously long. My green bike just got its chain replaced at 4200 miles (thats my record) and it measured out on the gauge as being still fine, but since I changed the front ring and the rear cluster I pretty much had to change the chain too.

Look at this article for BBSHD settings.
Both versions described provide gentle drivetrain engagement and PAS does not engage until 6 mph. My front controller (a 30a KT T12S) engages PAS sooner than that. If for some reason I need to bump up the power I can always dab the throttle for 2 seconds on either motor as I see fit. The front motor hits peak rpms around 22-23 mph and fades away at that point.

Should I be considering buuying a fat tire bike instead of my hardtail steel standard mountain bike?
You have to really think thru what it is you are doing to decide that. As you already know, building a mid drive ups the ante on competence and brainpower expended by the builder over doing a hub motor kit. Doing 2wd about doubles that. You will have to think thru battery fitment and wire management just for starters. What front motor to use? A fat bike is best served by a Bafang G060, which varies from widely available to a unicorn depending on whether Bafang decides to build a bunch of them when you are in the market or not. Thats an 80 Nm motor. You can pick a 30a controller for a 500w motor (uses the small motor plug) and honestly I think this is the best choice. Or you can do a 750w motor which uses the big plug, and do a 35a KT controller (I did this on all of my fatties). Either way, I strongly recommend a front KT controller because you have to do the slowest slow-start setting (C5=00) for safety (after you get done giggling thru front wheel burnouts for a day or two).

For a nonfat bike, you have multiple options. I personally have stuck to what I know and used KT controllers and Bafang G020 100mm front motors. They are only 45 Nm but that has proven to be plenty for me in a street-use cargo bike application. A Grin All-Axle motor would be a good choice but it will be the most work. And certainly the most expensive.

For deep sand or snow... go fat so you can get the big torque. You'll need it when the going gets really tough. Same goes for mud. I remember taking my orange bike thru a construction site after a rainstorm, so piled up soft dirt and deep standing water. While going thru it I remember thinking 'I should not have done this' but I stayed upright and got thru it. That was one of those times I had to stop and look back and say "I can't believe that worked" and it would never happen on a single-motor bike regardless of how much power you pump into the back wheel.

Also, the bigger the bike the easier it can handle everything you are throwing at it without issue. So there's another reason to think fattie. But if you gave me a nice Surly chromoly gravel frame with a big triangle and one of their wonderful steel forks, I'd definitely look at doing a dual motor on one.
 
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