Do ebikes get more flats ?

If you already have slime in your tubes, is it OK to add flat out?
I wouldn't recommend it.

Both use basically the same amount of liquid per tube volume, so you'd be having twice as much gunk sloshing around, and who knows how they react to each other when mixed.
 
I wouldn't recommend it.

Both use basically the same amount of liquid per tube volume, so you'd be having twice as much gunk sloshing around, and who knows how they react to each other when mixed.
Actually it's the "twice as much gunk sloshing around" that I'm curious about. There sees to be a consensus that Flat Out works a little better than Slime. However instructions indicate that you are supposed to put twice as much Flat Out in the tire as Slime. I'm wondering if that's why it works better.
 
How can we tell whether our valves are removable (so we can add the liquid stuff)?
 
I'm being as honest as I can here, in saying I haven't run across one of those - yet. I didn't know they existed! I would say if you are buying over the counter, open the box and look?
 
I used automotive ones for years. Now I mostly use the Park Tool VC-1. This bike just went out the door with some tubeless juice. It is 750W with duel clutches. Check the down tube. No butt connectors here. No connectors at all.
 

Attachments

  • TrekMarlin3.JPG
    TrekMarlin3.JPG
    440.5 KB · Views: 123
  • TrekMarlin4.JPG
    TrekMarlin4.JPG
    308.4 KB · Views: 106
Actually it's the "twice as much gunk sloshing around" that I'm curious about. There sees to be a consensus that Flat Out works a little better than Slime. However instructions indicate that you are supposed to put twice as much Flat Out in the tire as Slime. I'm wondering if that's why it works better.
I've always used Slime and I almost always use more than the label calls for. Never read the directions on a bottle of Flat Out, but if it really calls for twice as much of it as Slime recommends I would wonder the same thing you are wondering. I'd go so far as to bet Slime would work significantly better if you use twice the dose.

There's bound to be a point of diminishing returns, but I can say for sure that saving the hassle of just a single flat would make it well worth using a little more sealant.

TT
 
My own opinion is that it isn't that hard to fix a flat.

One downside of putting sealant in tubes is it makes it difficult to messy (and sometimes impossible) to patch a leaky tube under field conditions when you inevitably get a puncture that the sealant can't fix. You also inevitably (that word again) gunk up the valve core and will have difficulty putting air in the tube.

If you really don't want to deal with flats, or at least want flats that you can 99 percent of the time deal with without removing the wheel and/or tire, go tubeless. Even if your wheel or tire can't conventionally go tubeless, you should be able to make a "ghetto tubeless" setup work:


Of course tubeless comes with its own challenges. Getting it set up in the first place takes some work, and replacing tires can be a spectacularly messy process until you are well-practiced. You'll need your own shop and some tarps on the floor when you do it those first times and possibly an apron and protective clothing.
 
Darn you Mr Coffee your logic is just too much😌 (for some to bear)
 
Get a valve core removal tool and try before you buy.
But I'm a cheapskate, I don't want to buy a tool just to find out if it will work! LOL. Maybe I can ride to the LBS and see if they have one. Of course, if they have the tool and it works, I'll probably feel obligated to let them put the stuff into the tubes for me. 🙂
 
But I'm a cheapskate, I don't want to buy a tool just to find out if it will work! LOL. Maybe I can ride to the LBS and see if they have one. Of course, if they have the tool and it works, I'll probably feel obligated to let them put the stuff into the tubes for me. 🙂
FFS a core tool is about a dollar. They come with Schaefer cires. Cheap!
 
... and they (valve core tools) are small and light and you really ought to carry one on your EDC. In particular if you use Presta valves.
 
I don’t hate many things. Just inanimate objects. Like presta valves . Why bother?
Newest bike came with Presta valves. They added about an hour to the assembly time as that's how long it took me to remove those tubes, drill the rims, and install conventional schraeder valve tubes. I can't even check the air pressure on a presta setup - don't want to.

Not going to argue or even discuss what sealant is best/better. The MUCH bigger point is to run SOMETHING. Beyond that, what brand you decide on is like splitting hairs....

As far as creating a mess, the stuff is water soluble. Seriously, how big a mess can that be?

I haven't had the issue with sealant plugging the valve core. That might have something to do with the fact my shop is equipped with an air compressor? Dunno, like I said it's never been an issue here.
 
But I'm a cheapskate, I don't want to buy a tool just to find out if it will work! LOL. Maybe I can ride to the LBS and see if they have one. Of course, if they have the tool and it works, I'll probably feel obligated to let them put the stuff into the tubes for me. 🙂
It's pretty much an essential tool to have and carry.

On another note, I've never seen or heard of a Schrader valve that doesn't have a valve core that can be removed. I guess they exist. Does anyone have a good picture of one?

TT
 
It's pretty much an essential tool to have and carry.

On another note, I've never seen or heard of a Schrader valve that doesn't have a valve core that can be removed. I guess they exist. Does anyone have a good picture of one?

TT
Regarding have and carry the tool, one option might be something like this - KISS!
 
Very interesting! These appear to be metal of some sort, am I correct? So they should be sturdy. And best of all, the tool is stored on the valve as a cap.
 
Back