Display on 750LF

Hi Lyndo... I actually have the Fat Bear 750s and it came with a default of 1-3 PAS with 33, 66 and 100% respectively. I'm going to guess that the 750W on your invoice refers to 750 "W"atts.
I'm really curious if the speed on your throttle would be 'set back' or limited if you configured your PAS level 1 to not more than 10%, set PAS 1 on your controller and then use throttle only (no pedals). What top speed do you get with these settings?
Okay, yeah, the W makes sense now. Thanks for shaking my head and rattling that out. I just have a lot of other things on my mind right now and didn't even think of that.
I actually would have got the Fat Bear but now I'm not sure I should have gone with Rattan (or Yamee) in the first place.
My speed is not there at the advertised 28 mph (per my GPS). The display showed me 27ish mph though. I am only getting 22 mph according to a GPS and when I set the wheel diameter to 20" the bike display then almost mirrored the GPS. This makes sense because the difference per tire revolution calculates to 83%, and 83% of the displayed 27 mph equals about 22.4 mph. I have had a very short conversation with the manufacturer and also with the seller. The seller had me send them the display code from the back of the unit so he could forward it to their "Engineer" who in turn told me, not only to set the wheel diameter setting back to 24", but to also set it to metric (kph).
Laughingly, I decided to humor them and told them I would try that and get back to them. In other words, they want me to set the display back to where it will lie to me about the speed again. GOD, why do people like this assume that everyone else is stupid? I'm not saying that I know much about how this controller interacts with the motor, but I will humor them with my findings regardless. If for some reason I am wrong, I will admit it. But something tells me I won't be and my next message them will be to discontinue any further attempts to drag out my warranty period and take care of the situation because I expect to receive what I pay for when I buy something.
The only reason they have been communicating with me at all is because I mentioned that I had not yet left a review of the product or my purchase experience. I tried speaking to Rattan Customer Service before and all I got as a reply was "crickets". Now, if they sold this as "rated at 22 mph", I wouldn't be having a fit.
So I am going to ride it tonight, "with a GPS", use the throttle and the crank in tandem and see if I can get my speed. I will also try your "less than 10%" idea on PAS 1, throttle only, and see what I get so I can relay those findings back to you. It was raining off and on all day yesterday out here. I'm hoping there is a dry spell for this test. The bike cannot ride on wet pavement. The "super quality" bike has a giant gap where the battery seats against the connectors. There is so big a gap that I was able to stick some bulb gasket between and around the connection in hopes for it to stay somewhat dry if it gets splashed. But the controller housing has no grommets or such where the wires pass through to help with keeping any liquid out. Sarcastically, that to me is just sheer genius at work right there.
I'll try and get back to you on the results of that setting.

L
 
Okay, yeah, the W makes sense now. Thanks for shaking my head and rattling that out. I just have a lot of other things on my mind right now and didn't even think of that.
I actually would have got the Fat Bear but now I'm not sure I should have gone with Rattan (or Yamee) in the first place.
My speed is not there at the advertised 28 mph (per my GPS). The display showed me 27ish mph though. I am only getting 22 mph according to a GPS and when I set the wheel diameter to 20" the bike display then almost mirrored the GPS. This makes sense because the difference per tire revolution calculates to 83%, and 83% of the displayed 27 mph equals about 22.4 mph. I have had a very short conversation with the manufacturer and also with the seller. The seller had me send them the display code from the back of the unit so he could forward it to their "Engineer" who in turn told me, not only to set the wheel diameter setting back to 24", but to also set it to metric (kph).
Laughingly, I decided to humor them and told them I would try that and get back to them. In other words, they want me to set the display back to where it will lie to me about the speed again. GOD, why do people like this assume that everyone else is stupid? I'm not saying that I know much about how this controller interacts with the motor, but I will humor them with my findings regardless. If for some reason I am wrong, I will admit it. But something tells me I won't be and my next message them will be to discontinue any further attempts to drag out my warranty period and take care of the situation because I expect to receive what I pay for when I buy something.
The only reason they have been communicating with me at all is because I mentioned that I had not yet left a review of the product or my purchase experience. I tried speaking to Rattan Customer Service before and all I got as a reply was "crickets". Now, if they sold this as "rated at 22 mph", I wouldn't be having a fit.
So I am going to ride it tonight, "with a GPS", use the throttle and the crank in tandem and see if I can get my speed. I will also try your "less than 10%" idea on PAS 1, throttle only, and see what I get so I can relay those findings back to you. It was raining off and on all day yesterday out here. I'm hoping there is a dry spell for this test. The bike cannot ride on wet pavement. The "super quality" bike has a giant gap where the battery seats against the connectors. There is so big a gap that I was able to stick some bulb gasket between and around the connection in hopes for it to stay somewhat dry if it gets splashed. But the controller housing has no grommets or such where the wires pass through to help with keeping any liquid out. Sarcastically, that to me is just sheer genius at work right there.
I'll try and get back to you on the results of that setting.

L
I tried to set PAS 1 to 9% but it would only let me go down to 20% and stopped. I then set it to 1-3 then 0-3 and still got the same thing. would not let me go down past 20.
 
I tried to set PAS 1 to 9% but it would only let me go down to 20% and stopped. I then set it to 1-3 then 0-3 and still got the same thing. would not let me go down past 20.
Also, I set the bike up on some stands. I put the settings back to default and then after that ended up going back to the 20" wheel diameter setting to get accurate speed readings on the display. After messing with it for a half hour, making adjustments to the derailleur and such, I tested it again and all of a sudden it started showing 28 mph. I don't know what is going on here but I am thinking I have a varying limited speed coming out of the controller. Either the controller has an intermittent problem or I lose 6 mph when the battery drains down to some point. I have to do some more testing now that the weather is starting to look better for riding.

IMG_20210327_073930.jpg IMG_20210327_074028.jpg IMG_20210327_074455.jpg
 
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I vaguely remembered I once achieved 28mph on my very first ride after fully charging the battery, but never got that again after that. Try it on a fully charged battery.
 
I tried to set PAS 1 to 9% but it would only let me go down to 20% and stopped. I then set it to 1-3 then 0-3 and still got the same thing. would not let me go down past 20.
Hey Lyndo ... thanks for trying.. this is interesting because I can set my PAS levels to basically anything I want (have not tried anything lower then 7% on PAS 1, but I was able to set it down that low. We must have different controllers!!
In all cases, my issue is that when my PAS level is set to very low % (say 10%), the throttle does not give me the additional 'jump' I wish I had. It makes no sense to me to have to set PAS level to a very high percentage in order to get full power on the throttle. It defeats the purpose of lower PAS levels if the intention is to have some resistance when pedaling. In my opinion, the throttle power should be completely separate from whatever PAS levels are set to and also regardless of 1-3, 1-5 or 1-9. What I have not tested is what happens to the throttle if I set the controller to PAS level 0 (PAS off)... I hope I still get power on the throttle!!
 
It appears the bikes may be coming to us with varying default settings. Mine came with 1-5 as default. 1 was set at 50% and 5 was set at 96%. I felt that 50% was a bit too much as well and I tried 25% which was then way too low. It would kick in relatively hard but then immediately back off. I had trouble balancing it since the bike is so "top heavy" with a rider. And I don't weigh a lot, only about a buck seventy five.
I ended up at 45% for #1 and cruising around at about 8-10 mph at that setting regardless of using throttle or the pedal cadence sensor without any pedaling pressure. So if yours came default at 1-3 then the defaults are per bike and apparently not a "standard". Did you get a LF or LM model? I also noticed a variation in model numbers which I don't understand. I have a LM750 from my understanding, but the invoice states 750W. I'm curious to what the "W" stands for.
Did you reset to defaults ever? I'm curious to see if it defaults back to 1-3 or what... mine defaulted back to 1-5.
Yes, I think this setting is for Motor output power persentage.
 
Hey Lyndo ... thanks for trying.. this is interesting because I can set my PAS levels to basically anything I want (have not tried anything lower then 7% on PAS 1, but I was able to set it down that low. We must have different controllers!!
In all cases, my issue is that when my PAS level is set to very low % (say 10%), the throttle does not give me the additional 'jump' I wish I had. It makes no sense to me to have to set PAS level to a very high percentage in order to get full power on the throttle. It defeats the purpose of lower PAS levels if the intention is to have some resistance when pedaling. In my opinion, the throttle power should be completely separate from whatever PAS levels are set to and also regardless of 1-3, 1-5 or 1-9. What I have not tested is what happens to the throttle if I set the controller to PAS level 0 (PAS off)... I hope I still get power on the throttle!!
Update: Confirmed that setting the PAS to 0 also kills power to the throttle.
 
this may set as a switch, 0 is off and 1 is on. but I don't know which switch is it...
Yes. It is just interesting that it is there but they don't mention what it is for. Maybe it's supposed to be a secret. But there are only so many combinations of button presses from the 4 buttons that someone, like me, is going to stumble upon it. Maybe when I get the bike back up on the service stands I will change it and see if anything noticeable happens.
 
Update: Confirmed that setting the PAS to 0 also kills power to the throttle.
I found it is that way to apparently "conserve" the battery so they have bragging rights on how long the battery lasts. The problem with that is that they just lost their bragging rights on the bike doing 28 mph. My question is this... What good is doing 28 mph if you can only do it for 5 miles and then it's gone. Honestly, I'd rather have the 28 mph than the battery life. I mean, I don't normally ride that fast all the time. I can't. There are a bunch of people on the trails and I can't really fly like that until I see a good open space, and then by that time I can only do 22 mph. So, my assessment of the LM750 is that it is a turd when you need it to be a star. And you can't do anything about it because they won't tell you how. The bike is yours once you buy it. You should be able to have it the way you like it. Balls or battery, your choice.
And like you stated about the throttle mimicking the PAS level setting. It should be independent and the throttle should be full whether or not the PAS level is set to a lower setting. Of course, that just my opinion.
 
I found it is that way to apparently "conserve" the battery so they have bragging rights on how long the battery lasts. The problem with that is that they just lost their bragging rights on the bike doing 28 mph. My question is this... What good is doing 28 mph if you can only do it for 5 miles and then it's gone. Honestly, I'd rather have the 28 mph than the battery life. I mean, I don't normally ride that fast all the time. I can't. There are a bunch of people on the trails and I can't really fly like that until I see a good open space, and then by that time I can only do 22 mph. So, my assessment of the LM750 is that it is a turd when you need it to be a star. And you can't do anything about it because they won't tell you how. The bike is yours once you buy it. You should be able to have it the way you like it. Balls or battery, your choice.
And like you stated about the throttle mimicking the PAS level setting. It should be independent and the throttle should be full whether or not the PAS level is set to a lower setting. Of course, that just my opinion.
I couldn’t agree more... other brands have the throttle totally independent of the PAS as it should be. Why do we have to be on the highest PAS setting to get full throttle in case you need a quick burst is beyond me!! You don’t want to be flipping the + to switch to a higher PAS just to get throttle action!! How stupid is that??? Who came up with this idea? They won’t offer a solution... they simply say that’s the way their bike works. I wish I’d known this ahead of time... I regret my decision now, but it’s too late!
 
I couldn’t agree more... other brands have the throttle totally independent of the PAS as it should be. Why do we have to be on the highest PAS setting to get full throttle in case you need a quick burst is beyond me!! You don’t want to be flipping the + to switch to a higher PAS just to get throttle action!! How stupid is that??? Who came up with this idea? They won’t offer a solution... they simply say that’s the way their bike works. I wish I’d known this ahead of time... I regret my decision now, but it’s too late!
Actually they should have the function that enable the full speed for throttle. as what I know, we have that function for the throttle, as attached below.
1619051755851.png
 
I found it is that way to apparently "conserve" the battery so they have bragging rights on how long the battery lasts. The problem with that is that they just lost their bragging rights on the bike doing 28 mph. My question is this... What good is doing 28 mph if you can only do it for 5 miles and then it's gone. Honestly, I'd rather have the 28 mph than the battery life. I mean, I don't normally ride that fast all the time. I can't. There are a bunch of people on the trails and I can't really fly like that until I see a good open space, and then by that time I can only do 22 mph. So, my assessment of the LM750 is that it is a turd when you need it to be a star. And you can't do anything about it because they won't tell you how. The bike is yours once you buy it. You should be able to have it the way you like it. Balls or battery, your choice.
And like you stated about the throttle mimicking the PAS level setting. It should be independent and the throttle should be full whether or not the PAS level is set to a lower setting. Of course, that just my opinion.
You're right that the 750 is a "turd". My display came blinking with no default settings inputted at all and I can get no help from Rattan. I bought mine in August and it's been sitting since my 3rd ride. I emailed Rattan immediately, which was 3 days after delivery, and they didn't respond for almost 2 weeks by which time they told me it was too late for a refund. I have been emailing, calling, texting...daily since August and just get different reps asking for the same pics and videos I've given them dozens of times. I can't even get an answer to what numbers to enter into the display. How am I supposed to know how many magnets the sensor has if they don't even know? Garbage product sold by garbage people
 
I have the same problem with them this is how the bike came. They are the worst customer service I have ever encountered
 

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