Crosscurrent S: Questions and Answers, Open Thread

[Asher]

I've been daydreaming about polishing the frame, like I've seen on motorcycles. Aluminum can be polished to a mirror finish. Not likely to happen, but it would be cool.

That would require sanding right? Pardon if this is a dumb question, but sanding a bike frame isn't enough to compromise the frame's weight tolerances or anything, is it?

I used goof-off to remove the decal on my titanium gravel bike. Should work for the brushed aluminum. There was some slight ghosting left from the decal and an Ultra Fine scotch bride pad removed that.

My primary reason for buying black was the juiced logo can barely be seen.

Thanks, will try!

 

[MisterBritcom]

Aluminum is soft, but you'd have to get pretty zealous with a power tool to accidentally remove enough material to compromise the structural rigidity.

 

[MisterBritcom]

And for what it's worth, never grind or sand aluminum. The dust particles are extremely harmful to your lungs. If you want to lightly wet sand a blemish it would probably be okay.

 

[Asher]

I tried using some goo gone because it's on hand, didn't do anything (on the small lettering near the stem, left side. Upon closer inspection, I think the logos and lettering are painted on.

I found this thread, looks very promising for removing the paint (though it's going to be a lot more work for black/red)

http://forums.mtbr.com/downhill-fre...-frame-get-brushed-aluminium-look-529349.html

"Aluminum is much softer than steel, and so chemical paint removal is the preferred way to go with an aluminum frame. It has been reported that abrasive particles embed themselves in aluminum and spoil the finish. Aluminum also requires special preparation and primers. The best bet with aluminum is to send the frame out to a shop which specializes in stripping paint off aluminum, mostly using chemicals."

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/paint-prep.html

On second thought, I imagine anything this invasive will void the warranty, and perhaps enable oxidation. More research needed.

 

[LS3Miata]

I tried using some goo gone because it's on hand...

I believe goo gone is more for removing sticker residue, goof-off removes the decal.

 

[MisterBritcom]

I just got my CCS .

For the rear light, how long do the double AA batteries last? Do you have to unscrew the light to put in new batteries?

What voltage corresponds to 20% capacity? I'd like to set my low voltage cut off to that. Tora mentions 43 volts in a video as a safe cutoff, which I'm using now.

The clip to open the taillight is on the bottom of the assembly and the fender is in the way. I used a 1/4" ratchet with an extension and 8mm socket to take the assembly off. This only takes a few seconds. Don't lose the washers, there are six all together. The hardest part of the whole job for me was that the rubber gasket to keep moisture out of the light came out of it's groove and I had to work around the base with a tiny screwdriver to reseat it. Don't torque the nuts too hard when you put the assembly back on, a little blue locktite might be good here. Here's a pic showing the tab clip, some people have been able to reach it with a knife, but I think removing the light might be the easiest way.