Cross Current extended battery

Itsmejson

New Member
Hi everyone,

I am strongly considering purchasing this bike but trying to decide between the standard or extended battery.

My commute to work is 10 miles round trip, which is what I will mainly be using it for all flat with light inclines unless I decide to go longer distances for fun.

What are some of you all averaging for miles if left on sport mode?

When you purchase the extended battery option does it also come with both batteries extended & standard battery or just the extended battery?
 
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I get about 10 miles in sport mode with the 7.8 Ah battery. Here are some details about my typical commute. My commute is about 4 miles each way.
 
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Garmin Vivoactive HR. I don't GPS track all of the time, and the watch knows I'm riding and tracks my time. The screenshots are from a GPS event. One interesting thing about my ride is I burn about half the calories of a nonebike.

I mostly ride for the fun of it, and get plenty of exercise at work. If you are only commuting 10 miles a day the small battery will be fine. Btw with my rack, full panniers, and myself all weighs about 240 lbs. I also run about 50 psi so the ride is comfortable. Both the weight and psi probably negatively effect the range.
 
Get the middle size battery. Batteries degrade over time, and having that extra margin will be helpful in a couple of years.

The large battery is very expensive but has awesome range, like 75 miles, supposedly

Suggest you contact crazy eddy before you buy
 
It depends on how fast you ride. At 28mph I can completely drain the stock 7.8ah battery in 10 miles so I would recommend going for the 10.4ah battery if you want to go commute at the fastest setting and still have some safety margin. The other reason to get the bigger battery is to extend the life 3-4X by only charging it to 80% max. You only get one battery for the $250 upgrade fee BTW.

I'm going to get the 23.4ah battery when it's available so I can make longer trips around Los Angeles.
 
Assuming if you get the bike w/standard battery you can easily upgrade to the 10 or 23ah batts without doing anything else? controller or?
 
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I just went for a battery test around my area. The bike still had juice when I stopped, but I'm satisfied with the range. I was a little smoked with an avg HR of 159, and the battery was down to one led under load. Total weight including bicycle was 261 lbs. towards the end of the run I was going up and down the same group of hills trying to get the battery to die.
 
Concur with the prevailing view that you want the medium battery. Don't overlook Dunbar's and JoePah's points about battery degradation over time and the benefits of not doing a full charge. My commute is identical to yours - 10 miles each way, and with a 400' elevation gain in one direction - and have 3-LED capacity remaining when pedaling on '1'. I've expanded the ride to 25 miles and still had capacity left. BUT that's mostly in calm or light winds, and it's with my preferred power level of '1' for virtually the whole ride. On a windy cross-wind run, I had much less remaining capacity due to higher power level use.

BTW it's a great bike. I rode 12 ebike models - and the CC was by far the best value purchase available if you're looking for a road worthy pedelec. I was able to configure it with the accessories I wanted, it was well packed for trucking out to Montana, and arrived without a scratch or a problem.

Jack
 
Now that Interbike is over is there an updated ETA on the 23ah battery for the Cross Current? My shop has the 10.4's in stock but I want to go straight for the 23ah battery if it's coming this year.
 
10.4 Battery Design Flaws:

Alright so I have black cross current medium frame. It is from the first production run and I had an early 10.4 battery. The first 10.4 had a rattle within the casing. Had the LBS shop order a replacement battery. Battery #2 seems to not have any loose wiggle of cells within the battery enclosure. The crap part is that the fitment of bike to battery still has a rattle to it. I suspect that one of the issues around the battery fitment is the area where the battery sits in the frame is not properly spec'd to the battery. A "duck tape" style fix to make that fitment correct is not a viable solution to this problem in my opinion. While the cross current is a budget friendly ebike, this still costs a significant amount of money.

The heavier the battery is the more of a problem this will become. I bought this bike with the intention of eventually upgrading to the 23ah which will be heavier than the 10.4. I suspect that this will be fixed in subsequent versions, but I may be in a crappy spot with the 2 cross currents I have.
 
My CC is very unreliable atm due to the display flashing & then shutting down for some unknown reason. The PAS is also troublesome to engage at times. A new controller & battery unfortunately have not fix this. I have over 2200 miles on it. The replacement battery I got did not have the velcro used as cushioning so I had to add that myself. Unfortunately I don't have a local dealer.
 
My CC is very unreliable atm due to the display flashing & then shutting down for some unknown reason. The PAS is also troublesome to engage at times. A new controller & battery unfortunately have not fix this. I have over 2200 miles on it. The replacement battery I got did not have the velcro used as cushioning so I had to add that myself. Unfortunately I don't have a local dealer.
Is that also a 10.4? Velcro is not a suitable fix. That really pisses me off, if this is the "fix". Youth if I remember right you are also the poster that had sever rear flats, is that right?

We are on the third rear flat on my girlfriends cross current. First couple were road debris the most recent seems to be a flat from the inside out, possibly a spoke, but a definite cause hasn't been found yet.
 
Is that also a 10.4? Velcro is not a suitable fix. That really pisses me off, if this is the "fix". Youth if I remember right you are also the poster that had sever rear flats, is that right?

We are on the third rear flat on my girlfriends cross current. First couple were road debris the most recent seems to be a flat from the inside out, possibly a spoke, but a definite cause hasn't been found yet.

It is a 10.4 & it didn't bother me because it doesn't get seen. It could also be put in the frame instead of the battery and accompish the same thing. The bottom battery is the new one I was sent. Other then the missing velcro I though it was odd where they placed the stickers.

And I did get flats again after over two months. Both were on the valve side. I have no idea how it happened since I couldn't feel any sharp edges. The 2nd flat I think happened because the tape I used shifted since it doesn't stick well to the flaking paint inside the rim combine with water retention from riding in the heavy rains allowing it to slip exposing the tire to the spoke holes. My patching efforts have been unsuccessful with this bike with the patches blowing or leaking so I just ended up using a new inner tube.

Also had a spoke break at the head and am starting to hear noises from the rear which sounds like disc brake rub, but I think are the spoke flxing & rubbing where they cross. In Court's video review the shop guy did mention that the rear wheel should be looked over.
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In talking to my local shop it sounds like the huge battery might not be released for a while. I'm going to go swap out my 7.8ah for the 10.4ah today which I paid for in May when I got the bike. I was hoping to go straight to the 1+kwh battery but I'll reevaluate that option when we get a more information. I think Juiced is focusing most of their efforts on keeping up with the huge demand for the Cross Current which I can't blame them for doing. I see lots of people riding them around my area and my local shop only had one CC on the floor last time I stopped by.

Edit, well I had issues with the last 10.4ah battery they had in stock. The power kept shutting off on the ride home so I returned it. They should get more 10.4's next week.
 
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