Cross Core Experience Welcome

[geysir]

You have white cables? Mine are black. Did you buy bike new, those are OEM?

The cable housing is not original. I first went with bars with 45 degree back sweep and needed longer cables. This current setup probably does not need longer cables.

 

[Zekiel]

Look at my modified Cross Core drivetrain.

 

[WattsUpDude]

Look at my modified Cross Core drivetrain.View attachment 84038

Nicely done. Looks like you did hydro brakes, too?

 

[bones774]

Congrats on your purchase! I bought a Cross Core in the summer and have about 700 miles on it so far, mostly a 20 mile round trip commute in NYC.

After about 200 miles, all the cables had stretched out (as expected) causing diminished braking and surprise gear shifts. The front hub developed a popping noise as well. After a tune-up all was resolved, though the shop wouldn't tell me what they did to fix the popping noise - I assume it was minor.

At about 500 miles the brake pads needed to be replaced. They wore out so quickly, I feel like the pads from the factory were like a starter toner cartridge that you get with a new printer. Replacement pads from Shimano were $30 per wheel plus labor ($100 for bike brakes after 4 months, are you kidding?).

I went to brake pad university on the internet and ended up replacing them myself (very easy) with these, which are sintered (metal) which will last a lot longer and do provide more stopping power.

Not sure if it's the same with the Civante, but while Yamaha has an amazing electric drive train, it feels like they really cheaped out on the construction and components on the Cross Core. The shifters are anything but smooth, and the brakes have always been a concern, both requiring frequent adjustment to the cables to remain functional and aligned. The headset also needed to be tightened twice so far as the forks keep developing some play, rocking back and forth.

Minor point - The stock pedals are tiny little cheap plastic things that my normal width size 11 feet couldn't get full purchase over. I immediately replaced them with these, which provide a much more secure footing.

Lastly, the charger is a problem. It is unnecessarily large, and the cables to and from it are hard wired, making it difficult to transport or replace parts. And replace parts you shall, when the cheap locking collar assembly fails through normal use. One day you will go to disconnect the cable from your battery, and the locking collar will just slide backwards down the cable in your hand while remaining locked to the battery, leaving you to figure out how to disconect it without damaging the battery - Good luck! ;-)

This just happened to me, and I'm waiting to hear back from the dealer what (if any) warranty repair/replacement is possible - As for DIY repair, you can't find any information at all on what appear to be proprietary power connectors. Others with this problem have been told to go pound sand by Yamaha and have had to buy a new charger for $200. I hope that's not the case.

Apart from these issues, as annoying as they are, the riding experience is excellent when the bike is tuned up, and the assist is very natural. My commute is far more enjoyable than it was on the Subway, and I will hang on to this bike until at least the summer to see if I can stabilize all the 'new bike' issues and have to fix it less.

Waking up an old thread here, but will the brakes linked here fit my cross core with Sora BL-R 3000 brakes when I went to link it just said "road bikes"?

 

[geysir]

Waking up an old thread here, but will the brakes linked here fit my cross core with Sora BL-R 3000 brakes when I went to link it just said "road bikes"?

Yes, that link shows the correct brake pads. The CrossCore comes with BR-RS805 brake calipers that take pads:
L02A resin finned
K02S Resin w/o fin
L04C metal with fin
K04S metal w/o fin
L03A newer version of L02A ?
I use a version of the semi-metallic pads without fins. They work fine.

A note to the poster who didn't like the double chainring.
I went to a 40 tooth inner ring and only use the inner ring. I took off the front derailleur and shifter and am much happier!
42 tooth probably would be fine too. In the future, if I find myself mainly in the 11-13-15 cassette gears in the back I may put the 40 tooth as the outer chain ring for straighter chain travel.

In previous posts I complained about not having a suspension fork on the crosscore. I still would like a suspension but have found a softer ride by using a suspension stem along with carbon fiber handlebars. I am slowly getting comfy on my 2 year old bike.

 

[bones774]

Yes, that link shows the correct brake pads. The CrossCore comes with BR-RS805 brake calipers that take pads:
L02A resin finned
K02S Resin w/o fin
L04C metal with fin
K04S metal w/o fin
L03A newer version of L02A ?
I use a version of the semi-metallic pads without fins. They work fine.

A note to the poster who didn't like the double chainring.
I went to a 40 tooth inner ring and only use the inner ring. I took off the front derailleur and shifter and am much happier!
42 tooth probably would be fine too. In the future, if I find myself mainly in the 11-13-15 cassette gears in the back I may put the 40 tooth as the outer chain ring for straighter chain travel.

In previous posts I complained about not having a suspension fork on the crosscore. I still would like a suspension but have found a softer ride by using a suspension stem along with carbon fiber handlebars. I am slowly getting comfy on my 2 year old bike.

I'd like to raise bars also but there are mixed reviews if it's possible or not due to cable lengths.
thanks for info

 

[geysir]

I just put Shimano MT200 hydraulic brakes on my CrossCore and am very happy with the result. They make brake use so much easier than the stock units. Cost was $60 through ebay plus additional dollars for flat mount-to-post adapters, a simple bleed kit, and inserts-olives for the hose end. I cut the hose near the brake lever and threaded the hose through the frame from the caliper end up to the handlebars. I spent a few hours but the end result was worthwhile.

 

[Djangodog]

I’m new here, and new to Ebikes, but I have been a cyclist for nearly all of my life. I chose the Cross Core partly because it was such a good value and a good place to begin a customization. I immediately changed the tires and tubes, seatpost and saddle, next came the bars and pedals, followed by brakes and cables, shifters and derailleurs. There was really nothing that needed to be changed and the bike works fine right out of the box. I had initially wanted to get a Wabash, but then I compared it to the Cross Core and there was not $1100.00 difference in the value, so I made the Cross Core into a flat bar Gravel Bike with inner bar ends and 17 degrees of sweep on the bars. It provides a great and fun ride and still came out to be less expensive than the Wabash, (same frame, wheels and motor, and I would have changed out the saddle, seatpost, tires and pedals on the Wabash too). I’m having a lot of fun with the Cross Core and it’s nice to have a three year warranty.

 

[geysir]

I’m new here, and new to Ebikes, but I have been a cyclist for nearly all of my life. I chose the Cross Core partly because it was such a good value and a good place to begin a customization. I immediately changed the tires and tubes, seatpost and saddle, next came the bars and pedals, followed by brakes and cables, shifters and derailleurs. There was really nothing that needed to be changed and the bike works fine right out of the box. I had initially wanted to get a Wabash, but then I compared it to the Cross Core and there was not $1100.00 difference in the value, so I made the Cross Core into a flat bar Gravel Bike with inner bar ends and 17 degrees of sweep on the bars. It provides a great and fun ride and still came out to be less expensive than the Wabash, (same frame, wheels and motor, and I would have changed out the saddle, seatpost, tires and pedals on the Wabash too). I’m having a lot of fun with the Cross Core and it’s nice to have a three year warranty.

what stem are you using? I have carbon fiber bars with 20 degree backsweep and went with a 120 mm 17 degree stem. I am thinking of going to a 120 mm 6 degree Kinekt stem to smooth the ride. I will say the carbon fiber bars and 40 mm tires have reduced the shock level a good amount.

 

[Djangodog]

what stem are you using? I have carbon fiber bars with 20 degree backsweep and went with a 120 mm 17 degree stem. I am thinking of going to a 120 mm 6 degree Kinekt stem to smooth the ride. I will say the carbon fiber bars and 40 mm tires have reduced the shock level a good amount.

The stem is stock. I am using Salsa Deluxe Bend bars with 17 degrees of sweep. They seep forward, then back, so the reach is unchanged.

 

[Djangodog]

Unfortunately, Yamaha has a serious supply line issue. I had a rear wheel issue, which I was able to resolve by upgrading to DT Swiss CR 1600 wheels and machining a groove onto the end cap to locate the speed sensor. Another forum member is having a hard time getting a new speed sensor, (unfortunately, there is no workaround for him). Part of the reason that I bought the Yamaha was the 3 year warranty and the fact that they are not a “fly by night“ company. Unfortunately, rather than trying to help a customer, they are just throwing up their hands and blaming the supply line problem, (a better company would come up with solutions).

On the plus side, the DT Swiss CR 1600 wheels are a nice upgrade and my very upgraded Cross Core is a very nice gravel, rail trail and road riding bike. It handles very well and moves right along, even when I am riding past any assistance. In addition to the wheels, mine has Maxxis 40 mm Receptor tires, a Tiara 4700 drivetrain, Salsa Deluxe Bend bars, Carbon inner bar ends, Spank Oozy pedals, Fizik saddle, Cane Creek carbon eeSilk gravel seat post, Red Shift stem and TRP Spyre brakes. That may sound like a lot of changes, but except for the wheels, it still came out less expensive than a Wabash, and it is more to my liking.

View attachment 128904

 

[WattsUpDude]

Unfortunately, Yamaha has a serious supply line issue. I had a rear wheel issue, which I was able to resolve by upgrading to DT Swiss CR 1600 wheels and machining a groove onto the end cap to locate the speed sensor. Another forum member is having a hard time getting a new speed sensor, (unfortunately, there is no workaround for him). Part of the reason that I bought the Yamaha was the 3 year warranty and the fact that they are not a “fly by night“ company. Unfortunately, rather than trying to help a customer, they are just throwing up their hands and blaming the supply line problem, (a better company would come up with solutions).

On the plus side, the DT Swiss CR 1600 wheels are a nice upgrade and my very upgraded Cross Core is a very nice gravel, rail trail and road riding bike. It handles very well and moves right along, even when I am riding past any assistance. In addition to the wheels, mine has Maxxis 40 mm Receptor tires, a Tiara 4700 drivetrain, Salsa Deluxe Bend bars, Carbon inner bar ends, Spank Oozy pedals, Fizik saddle, Cane Creek carbon eeSilk gravel seat post, Red Shift stem and HRD Spyre brakes. That may sound like a lot of changes, but except for the wheels, it still came out less expensive than a Wabash, and it is more to my liking.

View attachment 128904

Bummer about the issues. The bike looks fantastic, though and I bet it rides better than ever. If/when I need to change out my wheels, I think I'll go with 650B for even more suppleness.

 

[Djangodog]

Bummer about the issues. The bike looks fantastic, though and I bet it rides better than ever. If/when I need to change out my wheels, I think I'll go with 650B for even more suppleness.

I was surprised at how supple they are. I assume that it is probably a combination of lacing pattern, reduced spoke count and mostly, that the inner width of the rims are 3.25 mm wider. I had a good ride today with a mixture of gravel and paved roads, and some good climbs. I wasn’t noticeably faster, but the difference in suppleness was striking. I run 40 mm Maxxis Receptors at 45 psi and I already have a Red Shift suspension stem and Cane Creel eeSilk Gravel seat post, so the ride was already nice, but the new wheels made a significant difference. I would have preferred to keep the $706.00 in my pocket, but I will have a nicer ride long after I have forgotten about the added expense.

My “acoustic” road bike has Shimano Dura Ace C24 wheels and my previous road bike was a Specialized S-Works Roubaix that came with $3000.00 wheels, so I guess that I shouldn’t gripe about $706.00 wheels for my eBike, (being retired has tightened the purse strings a bit).

 

[Neverlost99]

What do you you guys think about the RC MODEL?

 

[Djangodog]

What do you you guys think about the RC MODEL?

I cannot speak for anyone else, and not everyone wants or needs the same thing. My Cross Core is a bit lighter than when it left the factory. It actually handles and rides very well, (fairly sporty with comfortable handling ).

The increased weight, heavy/lower level suspension fork, higher price, inadequate gearing, (my opinion), and Class 3 rating are all negatives to me.

I think that a better fork, upgraded drivetrain, suspension seat post and better tires would make it into a very capable bike, but for me, the Class 3 level is a negative.

Class 3 means that it isn’t allowed on bike paths, rail trails or bike lanes.

I do like the looks. If I were to buy one I would upgrade the fork, drivetrain and tires.

You can buy a regular Cross Core and upgrade the drivetrain to a 1x11 SLX, upgrade to hydraulic brakes, add a good suspension seat post and stem and upgrade the tires and have a comfortable, much lighter and capable bike that you can still use in the bike lane or bike path.

Class 3 would be a lot of fun, but the Class 1 Cross Core seems more authentic, (Class 3 is more the speed of a professional cyclist). Just my opinion.

 

[geysir]

What do you you guys think about the RC MODEL?

I think the Yamaha CrossCore RC is a good value. Those Shimano MT200 brakes are nice - I put those on my CrossCore. The Trek Allant+7 is a comparable bike and that is over $4000. Both have spring forks. Spring forks are a bit heavier than air forks but never leak air. The CrossCore RC is a light, nimble bike with a great motor. I love the zero-cadence power right from the start. The cons for me are the short top tube, the relatively high stand over height, and the low handlebar height (I'm old). If you can tolerate a 33 inch stand over height I would buy the size Large if your are over 5'5". I recently purchased a second e-bike (Specialized Vado 5.0 step-through) and am selling my CrossCore. I am more comfortable on the Specialized Vado and hope the Specialized motor issues of the last couple years are resolved.

 

[geysir]

For the past couple weeks I have had both my old (2020) Yamaha CrossCore and my new $5000 Specialized Vado 5.0. I am having buyers remorse and am now liking the CrossCore more than the Specialized !!! My modified CrossCore weighs in at 44.0 pounds. The Vado 5.0 is 57.6 pounds. The CrossCore has instant start allowing me to quickly cross a street from a stop. The Vado takes a short turn of the cranks to slowly start moving. It's ponderous compared to the CrossCore. All the mods I have done to the CrossCore finally made it comfortable and easy to ride - stem riser, Redshift suspension stem, carbon fiber bars with 20 degree backsweep, ESI Extra Chunky silicone grips, 1x9 drivetrain, hydraulic brakes. Surprisingly, switching from Ergon GP1 grips to the ESI Extra Chunky silicone grips has eliminated my hand-wrist issue. The 20 mph cutoff on the CrossCore is still a pain - great to see the CrossCore RC is Class 3.

 

[EMGX]

For the past couple weeks I have had both my old (2020) Yamaha CrossCore and my new $5000 Specialized Vado 5.0. I am having buyers remorse and am now liking the CrossCore more than the Specialized !!! My modified CrossCore weighs in at 44.0 pounds. The Vado 5.0 is 57.6 pounds. The CrossCore has instant start allowing me to quickly cross a street from a stop. The Vado takes a short turn of the cranks to slowly start moving. It's ponderous compared to the CrossCore. All the mods I have done to the CrossCore finally made it comfortable and easy to ride - stem riser, Redshift suspension stem, carbon fiber bars with 20 degree backsweep, ESI Extra Chunky silicone grips, 1x9 drivetrain, hydraulic brakes. Surprisingly, switching from Ergon GP1 grips to the ESI Extra Chunky silicone grips has eliminated my hand-wrist issue. The 20 mph cutoff on the CrossCore is still a pain - great to see the CrossCore RC is Class 3.

I have a gravel bike with the Yamaha pw-se motor and a couple tongsheng tsdz2 torque sensing mid drive kits that I've moved around on a few different bikes. The Yamaha and tongsheng perform very similarly. It seems surprising to me that an expensive Specialized bike doesn't match the performance of a Yamaha or a relatively cheap tongsheng mid drive kit regarding the "instant start" assist.

 

[Djangodog]

For the past couple weeks I have had both my old (2020) Yamaha CrossCore and my new $5000 Specialized Vado 5.0. I am having buyers remorse and am now liking the CrossCore more than the Specialized !!! My modified CrossCore weighs in at 44.0 pounds. The Vado 5.0 is 57.6 pounds. The CrossCore has instant start allowing me to quickly cross a street from a stop. The Vado takes a short turn of the cranks to slowly start moving. It's ponderous compared to the CrossCore. All the mods I have done to the CrossCore finally made it comfortable and easy to ride - stem riser, Redshift suspension stem, carbon fiber bars with 20 degree backsweep, ESI Extra Chunky silicone grips, 1x9 drivetrain, hydraulic brakes. Surprisingly, switching from Ergon GP1 grips to the ESI Extra Chunky silicone grips has eliminated my hand-wrist issue. The 20 mph cutoff on the CrossCore is still a pain - great to see the CrossCore RC is Class 3.

The Cross Core shares frame, fork, wheels and Yamaha drive with the class 3 Civante, so a Civante can be converted to a class 3 Cross Core or if available, the class 3 components from a Civante could be added to a Cross Core, (except for a few components and paint, they are the same bike). You would then have a 44 pound class 3 Cross Core.

 

[geysir]

The Cross Core shares frame, fork, wheels and Yamaha drive with the class 3 Civante, so a Civante can be converted to a class 3 Cross Core or if available, the class 3 components from a Civante could be added to a Cross Core, (except for a few components and paint, they are the same bike). You would then have a 44 pound class 3 Cross Core.

I have an extra assembly that mounts on the rear wheel hub for determining speed. I hoped I could modify it to double the allowed top speed. Unfortunately, I don't know which metal pickups (little balls in the plastic) I can remove. There are two balls close together, a big space, 2 close balls, a big space, etc.