Creo 2 Tires Alternatives for Road

Hi,
I just bought the Creo 2 and I am in the same position you were in June, I want to use the bike for road and would like to change the tire.
What tires did you finaly choose ?

with a 24/25mm internal width rim (depending on which creo 2 you have) i’d recommend 32 or 35 mm GP5000 S TR. run them tubeless. comfortable, durable, fast rollling, good grip.

this assumes primarily dry use on pavement most of the time.
 
I have the Carbon one version 2024.
Yes I will be on pavement 100% of the time.
I went with the Mondo T2/T5 35 mm -- I put the stock ones back on when I'm doing gravel specific rides, and then leave these on 90% of the time.
 
with a 24/25mm internal width rim (depending on which creo 2 you have) i’d recommend 32 or 35 mm GP5000 S TR. run them tubeless. comfortable, durable, fast rollling, good grip.

this assumes primarily dry use on pavement most of the time.
 
with a 24/25mm internal width rim (depending on which creo 2 you have) i’d recommend 32 or 35 mm GP5000 S TR. run them tubeless. comfortable, durable, fast rollling, good grip.

this assumes primarily dry use on pavement most of the time.
Thank you.

Can I take those tires and put tubes in it instead ? If so, what would be the required size of the tubes and the dimension of the presta valve.

I know nothing about tubes but from my search, it lower the weight and reduces puncture, is that why you would go tubeless ?

Thank you again four your help !!!!
 
Thank you.

Can I take those tires and put tubes in it instead ? If so, what would be the required size of the tubes and the dimension of the presta valve.

I know nothing about tubes but from my search, it lower the weight and reduces puncture, is that why you would go tubeless ?

Thank you again four your help !!!!
you could run tubes in those tires but it would negate a lot of the advantages - there are cheaper lighter tires that work well with tubes.

the advantages of tubeless are resistance to small punctures - they just seal themselves up, repair from the outside for larger punctures (just just push a plug into into the hole from the outside and reinflate), a little less weight than standard tubes, and the ability to use a lower pressure without the risk of pinch flats.

disadvantages are the possibility of making a mess with the sealant if you aren’t familiar (it’s pretty easy once you do it a few times), potentially harder to get the tire seated on the rim the first time, and the small chance of being really stranded if you get a seriously big gash in the tire that the plugs or sealant won’t fix. if you ride infrequently, the sealant can also settle and dry out.

highly recommended if you get lots of flats from small pieces of glass, bits of wire, etc, and want to eke out the best performance from your creo.
 
Unless you're willing to do the messy work yourself, or pay to have a shop to it for you, you'd be better off going with tubes and a more puncture resistant tire than the Conti GP 5000.
I have GP 5000s on my road bike (with sealant) and I like them, but I don't mind spending the time to add sealant every 3/4 months and taking the tires off, and replacing the old sealant with new every year.
Personally, I wouldn't run GP5000s with tubes because I'd be afraid of punctures. There are a number of more puncture resistant tires on the market that are only slightly slower.

Side note: a couple of weeks ago I had a puncture on my back tire while on a long ride. Lots of sealant flying everywhere, but the sealant eventually sealed the hole and I was able to complete the ride.
I do carry plugs and an mini electric pump, but luckily I didn't have to use them on this ride.
When I got home I added some more sealant, because I had lost quite a bit when the tire was punctured-good as new.
 
Thank you for the input. I wont go tubeless for now.
''There are a number of more puncture resistant tires on the market that are only slightly slower.''
Any suggesstions ?
 
Tubeless in general, moves the flat repair from outside at the side of the road to inside in the shop, garage or basement. It is not maintenance free. There are other benefits such as lower pressures and riding characteristics but if you are looking for maintenance free look elsewhere. Tire size also depends on mass of the rider which can also affect the frequency of flats. If you are a 160lb rider vs a 250lb rider you will have a very different experience on a given tire recommendation. A light rider may go a year or two between flats vs a couple of times a year for a heavier rider.
 
Tubeless in general, moves the flat repair from outside at the side of the road to inside in the shop, garage or basement. It is not maintenance free. There are other benefits such as lower pressures and riding characteristics but if you are looking for maintenance free look elsewhere. Tire size also depends on mass of the rider which can also affect the frequency of flats. If you are a 160lb rider vs a 250lb rider you will have a very different experience on a given tire recommendation. A light rider may go a year or two between flats vs a couple of times a year for a heavier rider.
Thank you for your response.
I am light rider.
Will only ride on pavement and for now, won't go tubeless.
I use the bike 50% of the time without assistance.
 
I put some Continental GATOR Hardshell 700 X 32 with tubes and I am very satisfied.
Its a very different bike with these tires (on road of course).

Does anyone knows how to change the setting on the bike computer or on the Specialized app for the change of tire size ?
 
I can't find it but I saw a reference to the shop Turbo Studio being needed to change the circumference. I just changed my Creo 2 E5 tires from the delivery 700C x 38 to 700C x 48. I use a Garmin to record rides and not the app.
 
I can't find it but I saw a reference to the shop Turbo Studio being needed to change the circumference. I just changed my Creo 2 E5 tires from the delivery 700C x 38 to 700C x 48. I use a Garmin to record rides and not the app.
Yes, it has to be a Specialized dealer to adjust the tyre size using Turbo Studio.

It is good to go for wider tyres as the e-bike "thinks" you are riding slower than you actually do, so the speed is restricted at a higher value. Of course, the speed and odometer are wrong for the Creo but you might only be interested in what Garmin tells you. However, going from, say, 47 down to 32 mm tyre sets the restrictor at a lower speed, and of course the TCU 2 speed, distance and odometer are wrong in any case.
 
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Turbo S Diagnosis Tool needed​

 
Hello All,

First off let me explain that I'm very new to the cycling world and loving it so far. I have had my Creo 2 Comp for about a month now and have almost 500 miles racked up already. That being said, I am trying to soak in all of the information I can and to learn all the parts, nomenclature, etc... I have been on a few 30+ mile group rides thus far and have really enjoyed them and wish to keep diving further into this world....

Now the question -- It is my understanding that the Creo 2 is setup more like Gravel/MTB like than the original Creo. Is that understanding correct? The shop I bought the bike at told me to take off the gravel tires and put on some Gravel King Slick tires if I will be doing mostly road biking. That is fine and all, but I feel like there is a lot I have to understand. In the "Specialized Creo" facebook group there are several Creo 2 owners who are just buying a set of Creo 1 wheel sets. Is that the way to go?

As you can probably tell, I'm suffering for analysis paralysis and need some experts to help guide a new person figure out how to make my Creo 2 more of a Road bike than a gravel bike. I will 99.9% being riding on roads, so have no use for the huge gravel tires that come stock on the bike.
Hi,

after looking through the rolling resistance website for a slick tire with good puncture resistance, I opted to try the Challenge Strada Bianca HTL at 40mm wide and tubeless.

After one year of commuting on pavement and gravel, I have had zero flats and one wipeout on a tight gravel corner. I am overall quite happy with it in terms of speed and reliability, keeping in mind the reduced grip.

This is what it looks like on the bike:
IMG_0093.jpeg
 
Hallo allemaal,

Laat me eerst dat ik nog erg nieuw ben in de wielerwereld en dat ik het tot nu toe geweldig vind. Ik heb mijn Creo 2 Comp nu ongeveer een maand en heb er al bijna 500 mijl op zitten. Dat gezegd hebbende, ik probeer alle informatie die ik kan op te nemen en alle onderdelen, nomenclatuur, etc. te leren... Ik heb tot nu toe een paar groepsritten van meer dan 30 mijl gemaakt en heb er echt van genoten en wil graag verder duiken in deze wereld....

Nu de vraag -- Ik heb begrepen dat de Creo 2 meer op Gravel/MTB lijkt dan op de originele Creo. Klopt dat? De winkel waar ik de fiets kocht, vertelde me dat ik de grindbanden eraf moest halen en Gravel King Slick-banden moesten grotendeels als ik voornamelijk op de weg zouden fietsen. Dat is prima, maar ik heb het gevoel dat ik nog niet veel moet begrijpen. In de Facebookgroep "Specialized Creo" zijn er verschillende Creo 2-bezitters die gewoon een set Creo 1-wielsets kopen. Is dat de juiste manier?

Zoals je waarschijnlijk wel kunt zien, lijd ik aan analyseverlamming en heb ik experts nodig om een nieuwkomer te helpen erachter te komen hoe hij van mijn Creo 2 meer een racefiets dan een grindfiets kan maken. Ik rijd 99,9% op de weg, dus ik heb geen behoefte aan de enorme grindbanden die standaard op de fiets zitten.als

De echte vraag is op wat voor soort ondergrond je rijdt. Grindbanden doen concessies op de weg (hoger gewicht, rolweerstand en luchtweerstand) om veilig en comfortabel off-road te kunnen rijden.

Als je uitsluitend op verharde wegen rijdt, wil je banden die daarvoor geoptimaliseerd zijn. De G540-velgen op je fiets hebben een interne breedte van 24 mm, wat goed werkt met banden van 28 mm tot 50 mm. 32 mm is een goede breedte voor rijden op de weg, waarbij comfort en luchtweerstand in evenwicht zijn. Ik raad je ten zeerste aan om tubeless te gaan en een kwalitatief goede allroundband te gebruiken, zoals de Continental GP 5000 S TR. Specialized zegt dat je niet kleiner dan 38 mm moet gaan, maar veel mensen negeren dit als ze niet offroad rijden. Je kunt je LBS vragen om de snelheidssensor aan te passen, zodat de snelheidsmeting correct blijft met de iets kleinere diameter.

Nogmaals, het bovenstaande advies geldt alleen als u op verharde wegen rijdt! Pathfinder Pro's zijn een goede keuze als u off-road rijdt.
 
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