Creo 2 Flat Bar Conversion

In what sense is your purpose designed Vado SL 1 a mongrel then? None of your modifications has changed the design of your SL.
Compared to a highly optimized road or gravel bike, my SL's a mongrel, a jack of 2 trades — pavement and gravel — far from perfect for either but perfect for me.

For a long time, Specialized pitched the Vado SL 1 as a commuter bike, but that's not what I'm doing with it and not how I've set it up.

In both senses, it's very much a mongrel. Not interested in arguing this further. We'll have to agree to disagree.
 
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For a long time, Specialized pitched the Vado SL 1 as a commuter bike, but that's not I'm doing with it and not how I've set it up.
Not really. It was marketed as a fitness e-bike. Hasn't your fitness improved by riding the SL?

Compared to a highly optimized road or gravel bike, my SL's a mongrel, a jack of 2 trades — pavement and gravel — far from perfect for either but perfect for me.
I must insist it is not a mongrel. A hybrid bike is the term. That is, a cross-over.

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For me, converting this beauty -- meticulously designed down to the smallest detail -- is a crime.

We'll have to agree to disagree.
If you prefer so.
 
Modifications yes, damaging the intended design and purpose - not.
For instance: If I wanted a better Vado SL but could not buy Vado SL 2 6.0 Carbon non-EQ, I would buy the alloy SL 2 and started with removing the fenders and the rear rack for weight saving and for more sporty character. (Of course I would be well off if I just bought the Vado SL 2 6.0 Carbon non-EQ).


In what sense is your purpose designed Vado SL 1 a mongrel then? None of your modifications has changed the design of your SL.
I disagree. Bikes are just tools and can be used however one chooses. There is no damage to the design if you modify a drop bar to flat or from flat to drops. These are fairly simple modifications that can be reverted back to original pretty easily. Nobody’s talking about cutting a frame, shortening top tubes or welding on additional pieces.
 
I disagree. Bikes are just tools and can be used however one chooses. There is no damage to the design if you modify a drop bar to flat or from flat to drops. These are fairly simple modifications that can be reverted back to original pretty easily. Nobody’s talking about cutting a frame, shortening top tubes or welding on additional pieces.

I have revisited your own post that is even not one month old:
Some may recall that I also have a Sirrus X 5 that I love and ended up buying a Vado SL 5 to get an ebike version. That didn't work out as well as I'd hoped. There could've been an issue with the motor, not sure, but that bike felt like I was riding a heavier version of the Sirrus and the motor didn't really counter the weight. I sent that bike back and moved on.

Last week I picked up a 2025 Creo 2 in the pistachio color. I've ridden a few hundred miles so far and am very impressed. Over the last year I've gotten into drop bar bikes after not having ridden one in many years. When I would test ride a drop bar they always felt too weird and stretched out. I've wanted a drop bar because I believe in the benefits as it relates to speed and hand placement options.

I bought a used Sport Carbon Diverge at a very good deal to get used to the drops. It took all of two rides before I was hooked. Drops are the most comfortable I've ever been on a bike once it's fit to my preference. I know some believe that drops are hard on your back and neck but I've found this not to be the case. I'm 52 with a bad back but can ride much farther and longer on drops than a flat bar because my weight is evenly distributed between the saddle and bars. On a flat bar back I usually get butt and lower back pains after 20 miles or so.
The Creo is absolutely the most perfect all around bike I've ever ridden.
For those that wanted a lighter Vado SL 2 but didn't want a Creo because of the drop bar, don't be afraid of the drops. You will likely get used to them very quickly and may find like I did that they are extremely comfortable.

Now, @Ebikelife72, I must ask you a question. How come you -- of all people -- encourage converting Creo 2 to flat bar if you have found the original Creo 2 a perfect e-bike? :)
 
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Sorry to have created any friction with my original post. I was just hoping for some technical support on the potential conversion. Like others I would just like a bike that is suited to me, and if that means going away from the original design concepts then so be it.

If anyone does have any detailed technical advice re specific parts then that would be very welcome ....
 
Not yet purchased, so a bit premature !!! I just want to be clear about what I am taking on before making a decision.
It's complicated because each parts brand (Shimano, Sram etc) all work differently. So for example unless they have changed it recently, there is little compatibility between Shimano road and flat bar components. The good news is that going from drops to flat bar is much cheaper then the other way around. I'm guessing that is because as there are a lot more flat bar components sold (mountain bikes etc) the prices for parts are reasonable, whereas drop bar components are eye wateringly expensive. Worth you looking at the prices of the parts you'll need, brakes, drive train, and compare brands and which model you'd like and prices. Also check the gearing - as you'll be making changes anyway do you need lower or higher gears where you live & ride or is the standard gearing fine for you. If you are UK based definitely worth looking at other brands of bikes as well. As I mentioned Cube, which are readily available they make great bikes and have a knack for keeping prices down. If you've fallen in love with the Creo so be it, can't blame you! But maybe take it for a test ride even with the drops, you might be surprised. Can also discuss you're plan with the bike shop and they might have further ideas. Good luck.
 
But maybe take it for a test ride even with the drops, you might be surprised.
+1

As you already know, @vado SL, I'm all against the conversion. Should you however do it, please consider these facts:
  • 320 Wh battery in Creo 2, 540 Wh in Vado SL 2
  • A flat handlebar to be bought
  • New brake levers and connecting them to the existing hydraulic hoses
  • If this is Creo 2 E5 (Alloy), then you will need to add the proper SRAM shifter. If it is the carbon Comp version, you will need to add a very expensive shifter pod
  • A long, Future Shock compatible stem (or a regular long stem with a shim) to at least partly compensate the geometry difference
  • The Specialized Road Remote is designed specifically for the drop bar (secured there by the bar tape). It is not the regular Specialized remote with all the functions such as F1/F2, walk mode, etc.
  • Anything else I have forgotten?
As the outcome, you will get something that might be good enough or perhaps not. Meanwhile, you could just try a Creo 2 out and find out the drops are not the deal breaker? Or, try a Vado SL 2 6.0 Carbon non-EQ?
 
I have revisited your own post that is even not one month old:






Now, @Ebikelife72, I must ask you a question. How come you -- of all people -- encourage converting Creo 2 to flat bar if you have found the original Creo 2 a perfect e-bike? :)
One of the quotes you highlighted says that I prefer drop bars once fit to my preference. That’s my personal preference of fitment. Many road cyclist scoff if you change out a 120mm stem for anything shorter than 90mm as they say it makes the handling too twitchy. I haven’t personally found this to be true. Originally on my Diverge 58cm I installed an 80mm stem from 100mm and it felt very comfortable. The more I rode drops the more I adapted to the position and put the 100mm back on and now it feels more comfortable.

If his preference is for flat bars and a Creo 2 has all the other specs he prefers, I see no problem with the flat bar conversion. Yes, I prefer drops and find them more comfortable but he’s not buying a bike for me. I would encourage him to give the drops a month and see it he might like them better. Again, these are just bikes I’m not sure why you’re so hung up on what you perceive as the intended design and purpose not being disturbed. You act as if you’re the designer/builder of the Creo and are offended that somebody would want to make changes. I’m not trying to be rude but maybe get over yourself.
 
+1

As you already know, @vado SL, I'm all against the conversion. Should you however do it, please consider these facts:
  • 320 Wh battery in Creo 2, 540 Wh in Vado SL 2
  • A flat handlebar to be bought
  • New brake levers and connecting them to the existing hydraulic hoses
  • If this is Creo 2 E5 (Alloy), then you will need to add the proper SRAM shifter. If it is the carbon Comp version, you will need to add a very expensive shifter pod
  • A long, Future Shock compatible stem (or a regular long stem with a shim) to at least partly compensate the geometry difference
  • The Specialized Road Remote is designed specifically for the drop bar (secured there by the bar tape). It is not the regular Specialized remote with all the functions such as F1/F2, walk mode, etc.
  • Anything else I have forgotten?
As the outcome, you will get something that might be good enough or perhaps not. Meanwhile, you could just try a Creo 2 out and find out the drops are not the deal breaker? Or, try a Vado SL 2 6.0 Carbon non-EQ?
I don’t think a different stem would necessarily be needed. Riding on the flats on a drop bar bike fairly well simulates the flat bar position so the current stem may be perfectly comfortable.
 
I don’t think a different stem would necessarily be needed. Riding on the flats on a drop bar bike fairly well simulates the flat bar position so the current stem may be perfectly comfortable
That’s true but a drop bar bike is designed to be mainly ridden on the hoods or drops hence the different top tube lengths or if converting a longer stem. The real issue is buying a very expensive bike knowing that your not happy with so immediately spending a considerable amount of money converting it with the risk it will not as good as the original. By the way when you end “ not trying to be rude” with a ”but”……you are always trying to be rude 🙂.
 
That’s true but a drop bar bike is designed to be mainly ridden on the hoods or drops hence the different top tube lengths or if converting a longer stem. The real issue is buying a very expensive bike knowing that your not happy with so immediately spending a considerable amount of money converting it with the risk it will not as good as the original. By the way when you end “ not trying to be rude” with a ”but”……you are always trying to be rude 🙂.
No, I'm very aware of drop bar geometry and the differences. My point is that it's possible to not need to change the stem. As for being rude, I'm also aware that I was rude but I'm ok with that. Stefan went back and stalked my prior posts which in no way contradict anything I've said in this thread.
 
Sorry to have created any friction with my original post. I was just hoping for some technical support on the potential conversion. Like others I would just like a bike that is suited to me, and if that means going away from the original design concepts then so be it.
No worries. The fact that you ended up with WAY more heat than light on a reasonable technical question isn't on you. Just be glad you didn't ask about adding the most incendiary component of all on EBR — a throttle.

Yeah, I don't understand all the heat, either.

If anyone does have any detailed technical advice re specific parts then that would be very welcome ....
I think you got some of that. It was just buried in all the noise. But keep asking if you need more.

I hope you succeed. Pretty sure the sky won't fall in if you do it right.

My Plan A was a carbon Creo 2 Comp. Then I tried a friend's drop bar bike after years of flat-barred MTBs and 20+ years away from cycling after that. Realized that my creaky old neck just can't hack drop bars anymore — at least not if I actually want to look ahead instead of down.

Couldn't afford both the Creo and the flat-bar conversion, so I got a Vado SL 1 instead. Turned out to be a perfect bike for me but still wonder sometimes about the one that got away...
 
I'll add some more mud to this discussion.

If you follow gravel racing at all you'll see that many of the top riders are taking very expensive full suspension XC bikes and installing drop bars for more speed. This is a modification to a bike bike designed for flat bars but modified to better suit their needs. This is no different than modifying a Creo to have flats. While I personally wouldn't do it, I see no problem with someone that would
 
I'll add some more mud to this discussion.

If you follow gravel racing at all you'll see that many of the top riders are taking very expensive full suspension XC bikes and installing drop bars for more speed. This is a modification to a bike bike designed for flat bars but modified to better suit their needs. This is no different than modifying a Creo to have flats. While I personally wouldn't do it, I see no problem with someone that would
True that. Though in fairness the lads who are doing this are so whippet thin and flexible they could have any bars they like and get away with it!

Also fascinating to me after years of being told to 'slam yer stem' on road bikes nose almost touching the front tyre, now led by Pog they are going for high bars and stems on the mountain stages to 'open up the lungs'.
 
True that. Though in fairness the lads who are doing this are so whippet thin and flexible they could have any bars they like and get away with it!

Also fascinating to me after years of being told to 'slam yer stem' on road bikes nose almost touching the front tyre, now led by Pog they are going for high bars and stems on the mountain stages to 'open up the lungs'.
I also saw a report saying that testing showed that a higher position was overall more aerodynamic as the elbows can more easily be tucked and forearms kept horizontal for a longer period of time without exhaustion. I’m not sure such things are a concern to us older guys though!
 
True that. Though in fairness the lads who are doing this are so whippet thin and flexible they could have any bars they like and get away with it!

Also fascinating to me after years of being told to 'slam yer stem' on road bikes nose almost touching the front tyre, now led by Pog they are going for high bars and stems on the mountain stages to 'open up the lungs'.
Exactly, things change. Now a slammed stem is slower than a non slammed stem, tires are getting much wider on road bikes with no speed loss. Geometry changes with nearly every new model year. The Creo 2 alloy has slightly different geometry than the carbon versions. You just can't base things solely on geometry as to whether a flat bar will work on a drop bar or not. The whole industry started as an experiment which is why we have so many different types of bikes for different styles of riding and within each discipline the different brands have different geometry and designs that they feel work best. You never know what's best for you unless you try many different things and that's ok.
 
Also fascinating to me after years of being told to 'slam yer stem' on road bikes nose almost touching the front tyre, now led by Pog they are going for high bars and stems on the mountain stages to 'open up the lungs'.
Fascinating indeed. What could be simpler — a guy on a bicycle?

Yet so many tricky trade-offs to go faster or father or off pavement. And so many overturns of conventional wisdom — like slamming stems — as experience, technology, and willingness to think outside the box evolve.

Think of the dramatic change in thinking on tire widths and pressures in just the last few years. Why didn't we think of that 50 years ago? May not have been a good idea with the tire technology of the time, but ossified thinking certainly had a lot to do with it.
 
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