Creo 2 Flat Bar Conversion

[Jeremy McCreary]

Just look at the picture of that green Creo (lovely colour btw) and imagine flat bars where the stem ends. Now look at how far further forward the hoods are. Or the drops. The only way to be sure is to sit on a Creo and try both positions. Better still would be to swap out the drops and actually test ride flat bars.

I see what you mean. You could lengthen the stem to a point. Hmmm, wonder if someone makes a flat bar that first sweeps forward near the stem?

 

[Allan47.7339]

Looking at getting a Creo 2 but then undertaking Flat Bar conversion.

Anyone able to advise on the relevant Part Nos for the Vado SL Flat Bar, Grips, Levers ? Also is the fact that Creo has electronic gear change mean that this isn't feasible or is there a solution ?

Also any other tips or suggestions welcome ?

It's actually quite easy because SRAM drop and flat bar shifting components play well together especially the wireless electronics. Assuming you are starting from a Creo 2 Turbo Comp with eTap. If you are starting from a 2 E5 with mechanical it's still fairly easy but with mechanical components. Lots of noise in the signal here.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Orbea conversion. Total lust for the black-on-orange finished product.

A rather different take on conversions. I'm sure Simon felt impending doom the whole time. He just didn't let on.
;^}

 

[Ebikelife72]

I don't think it matters much where the hoods or drops are. Most who ride drop bar bikes will ride in the flats for a more upright position. A flat bar essentially is just like riding in the flats just a bit wider. I personally don't see an issue at all with converting a Creo.

 

[stompandgo]

I don't think it matters much where the hoods or drops are. Most who ride drop bar bikes will ride in the flats for a more upright position. A flat bar essentially is just like riding in the flats just a bit wider. I personally don't see an issue at all with converting a Creo.

I disagree. Most riders that I know ride on the hoods the majority of the time. They may be on the tops when climbing, because they are sitting back a bit.

 

[Ebikelife72]

I disagree. Most riders that I know ride on the hoods the majority of the time. They may be on the tops when climbing, because they are sitting back a bit.

I didn’t say they ride in the flats most of the time. I said most who ride drop bar bikes will ride in the flats for a more upright position, as in to change hand position or posture to relieve pressure on a long ride. I agree that they primarily ride in the hoods. My point is that the flats very well simulate a flat bar bike in the gravel bike geometry and it works very well and is comfortable. It stands to reason if you keep the same stem length and convert to flat bars it will likely be pretty comfortable if a more upright position is what you’re looking for. I personally prefer drop bars.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

A rather different take on conversions. I'm sure Simon felt impending doom the whole time. He just didn't let on.

Did you notice installing a 140 mm stem on the Orbea? Creo 2 requires installing a Future Shock compatible stem. I would first check whether such long FS stems were available.

 

[Ebikelife72]

Did you notice installing a 140 mm stem on the Orbea? Creo 2 requires installing a Future Shock compatible stem. I would first check whether such long FS stems were available.

Most stems are compatible with the FS. FS equipped bikes come with shims so standard stems will fit. They just to have the same measurement/height at the steerer tube connection.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Most stems are compatible with the FS. FS equipped bikes come with shims so standard stems will fit. They just to have the same measurement/height at the steerer tube connection.

Have you asked Specialized? Because I have.

 

[Ebikelife72]

Have you asked Specialized? Because I have.

View attachment 198953

View attachment 198952

No, I haven’t asked. I looked in the literature and more to the point I own 3 FS equipped bikes and have experimented with different stems on one of them by using different lengths, angles, and one that was adjustable . The shim is for stems other than Future Stems.

 

[Nubnub]

Thanks! So flat-bar suitabiliy in a frame largely comes down to relative top tube length, head tube angle, and wheel base? If so, could someone please look at the Creo 2 frame and see how far off those specs really are for flat bars?

Creo 2 Comp
View attachment 198942View attachment 198943View attachment 198944
Remember, the OP wants to convert a Creo 2 — not a full-bore road bike, and not any old drop-bar bike. If gravel bikes are on the spectrum between drop-bar road bikes and flat-bar MTBs, then the Creo's probably on that spectrum, too. Where?

Remember also that we have at least 2 members with presumably successful Creo 2 conversions. One for sure said that he loved the result.

Thanks!

Comparing the distance from tip of the saddle to the handlebar clamp I find my flat bar M size creo is about 1 in longer than my size 54 vado sl 2. While sizing difference between a "medium" and a 54 account for som of the difference, the stem on the stock creo (80 mm) vs the stock vado (60 mm) accounts for most of this. I noticed this difference at purchase but was told a longer stem would be out of stock for "awhile". I can live with the difference and haven't changed the Vado stem at the moment.

 

[Allan47.7339]

No, I wasn't suggesting anything like that. If the Creo is the platform he wants and wants to convert to flat bars, by all means, go for it. What @mschwett and I are saying is that there are alternatives available out of the box.

A consideration you guys frequently overlook, is the sheer number of Creo's in the market and the availability of support and spare parts from local bike shops. The alternatives are interesting and may be excellent solutions but it's kind of like cars where you don't want to be the only one in your region with that make and model. One of our favorite cartoons posted in our engineering area was the Dilbert cartoon "Change is good, you go first."

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

A consideration you guys frequently overlook, is the sheer number of Creo's in the market and the availability of support and spare parts from local bike shops. The alternatives are interesting and may be excellent solutions but it's kind of like cars where you don't want to be the only one in your region with that make and model. One of our favorite cartoons posted in our engineering area was the Dilbert cartoon "Change is good, you go first."

Can you name any of the members with converted Creo 2s? I think you participated in at least one of the conversion discussions. I'd like to get their testimony.

 

[mschwett]

@Jeremy McCreary the fact that the creo2 isn't really a typical road bike drop bar geometry certainly matters!

the top tube and wheelbase of a creo 2 is basically the same as a diverge, which is a drop bar gravel bike. a tarmac of the same size, on the other hand, is almost three inches shorter in wheelbase. that's a big difference, and since the top tube isn't as much different as the wheelbase the angle of the fork is a whole 2.5 degrees different. sounds like small differences, but on a long ride, or any ride where you're pushing the limits, it's a huge difference!

putting a flat bar on a tarmac would be nuts. putting a flat bar on a creo 2, certainly much less so. and that in-between geometry is also probably why a bike like the skitch can be offered with different bars without being ridiculous.

note, however, that a flat bar diverge does differ from a drop bar diverge. there will always be bikes that are slightly more specialized to task, with exactly the geo and parts and tire clearance and so on that the top level of performance in a field at the current moment in time prefers...

 

[Allan47.7339]

Can you name any of the members with converted Creo 2s? I think you participated in at least one of the conversion discussions. I'd like to get their testimony.

I've seen it more often in the FB Creo group and there are even some current posts in that group. I assume the Creo 2 is a little more upright than the Diverge. I have not ridden a Diverge but it seemed like the Creo 1 was a close match. I have a Creo 1 Expert L and a Creo 2 E5 56. Nominally the same size but the fit is different between them.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

@Jeremy McCreary the fact that the creo2 isn't really a typical road bike drop bar geometry certainly matters!

Yes, brought that up several times but no traction.

putting a flat bar on a tarmac would be nuts. putting a flat bar on a creo 2, certainly much less so.

Exactly.

note, however, that a flat bar diverge does differ from a drop bar diverge. there will always be bikes that are slightly more specialized to task, with exactly the geo and parts and tire clearance and so on that the top level of performance in a field at the current moment in time prefers...

We see a lot of black-and-white thinking around here. There's a place for the pure-breds and a place the mongrels. Love my mongrel flat-bar Vado SL 1 because it does everything I want (road and gravel) plenty well enough to keep me smiling.

Better than having 2 specialists for me, cuz I like to leave the house with only a first waypoint in mind. Most rides end up multi-surface, and my neck's a firm NO on drop bars.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Love my mongrel flat-bar Vado SL

It would have become a mongrel if you converted it to drop bars. Your Vado SL is a purpose designed e-bike.

 

[Ebikelife72]

It would have become a mongrel if you converted it to drop bars. Your Vado SL is a purpose designed e-bike.

Every bike is purpose designed, doesn’t mean you can’t or shouldn’t make modifications to better serve your specific purpose. It’s not like you can’t change things back if you don’t like the results and then just sell the parts.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

It would have become a mongrel if you converted it to drop bars. Your Vado SL is a purpose designed e-bike.

You misunderstood what I was saying.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Every bike is purpose designed, doesn’t mean you can’t or shouldn’t make modifications to better serve your specific purpose. It’s not like you can’t change things back if you don’t like the results and then just sell the parts.

Modifications yes, damaging the intended design and purpose - not.
For instance: If I wanted a better Vado SL but could not buy Vado SL 2 6.0 Carbon non-EQ, I would buy the alloy SL 2 and started with removing the fenders and the rear rack for weight saving and for more sporty character. (Of course I would be well off if I just bought the Vado SL 2 6.0 Carbon non-EQ).

You misunderstood what I was saying.

In what sense is your purpose designed Vado SL 1 a mongrel then? None of your modifications has changed the design of your SL.