crank issues

Kooler

New Member
I attempted to remove the drive side crank arm on a Rize Leisure. (6 months old) I was using a Bikehand crank remover tool. (See attachment) I made certain that the tool threaded in all the way and tightened it with a wrench and that the puller bolt was backed off all the way . I then started to turn in the puller bolt in and when it got to requiring heavy pressure, the tool popped out of the crank arm threads. I have purchased new crank arms but does anyone have any ideas how to get the old crank arm off?
 

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Welcome to the site.
You might post your problem on Maintenance issues forum down below in advanced forums. Some of the more experienced repair members monitor down there but not here.
I've used 6 different automotive pullers on bike cranks and never got one off. Had to trash a Pacific Quest MTB; plastic crank was wiggling but wouldn't come off without a saw.
 
Did you first remove the bolt or screw that secures the crank arm to the axle?

There is an automotive tool called a pickle fork, used for popping off ball joints. I think it will work. Only 10 bucks at Harbor Fright,

 
I attempted to remove the drive side crank arm on a Rize Leisure. (6 months old) I was using a Bikehand crank remover tool. (See attachment) I made certain that the tool threaded in all the way and tightened it with a wrench and that the puller bolt was backed off all the way . I then started to turn in the puller bolt in and when it got to requiring heavy pressure, the tool popped out of the crank arm threads. I have purchased new crank arms but does anyone have any ideas how to get the old crank arm off?
This can be extremely frustrating; Strip those threads, & you may as well epoxy the next crank. Not that
it helps now, but when I sense a hard pull, I use a lot of WD-40 on the crank & heat the crank with a
heat gun to expand it on the square taper. I give it a few light taps with my 4 pounder, & then try the puller
again. This is an operation where too much muscle can really screw things up. I´ve done it. Also, it is
very easy to cross-thread the puller if you are not careful & in a hurry. Be sure that the piston part of the
puller is backed off before threading the puller into the crank.
 
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This can be extremely frustrating; Strip those threads, & you may as well epoxy the next crank. Not that
it helps now, but when I sense a hard pull, I use a lot of WD-40 on the crank & heat the crank with a
heat gun to expand it on the square taper. I give it a few light taps with my 4 pounder, & then try the puller
again. This is an operation where too much muscle can really screw things up. I´ve done it. Also, it is
very easy to cross-thread the puller if you are not careful & in a hurry.
Thank you.
 
I attempted to remove the drive side crank arm on a Rize Leisure. (6 months old) I was using a Bikehand crank remover tool. (See attachment) I made certain that the tool threaded in all the way and tightened it with a wrench and that the puller bolt was backed off all the way . I then started to turn in the puller bolt in and when it got to requiring heavy pressure, the tool popped out of the crank arm threads. I have purchased new crank arms but does anyone have any ideas how to get the old crank arm off?
You probably have already figured it out by now but that crank remover tool has a disc on the end that you have to remove in order to use it on a square taper axle/crank arm (I think the disc is used for removal of ISIS splined type cranks). Otherwise it just pushes against the crank itself and not the axle. That would result in pulling the threads out of the aluminum crank arm, which sounds like happened to you.
 
Did you first remove the bolt or screw that secures the crank arm to the axle?

There is an automotive tool called a pickle fork, used for popping off ball joints. I think it will work. Only 10 bucks at Harbor Fright,

Have you used a pickle fork Harry? Seems to me that would bend the bearing housing or something on the frame or motor since the forces through the back of the pickle fork get pretty high.
 
You probably have already figured it out by now but that crank remover tool has a disc on the end that you have to remove in order to use it on a square taper axle/crank arm (I think the disc is used for removal of ISIS splined type cranks). Otherwise it just pushes against the crank itself and not the axle. That would result in pulling the threads out of the aluminum crank arm, which sounds like happened to you.
True, some pullers only work with a certain type of crank, becoming obsolete with each new type of
BB/ crank. I´ve had to use a grinder to reshape the piston portion of my puller. Good point!
 
You probably have already figured it out by now but that crank remover tool has a disc on the end that you have to remove in order to use it on a square taper axle/crank arm (I think the disc is used for removal of ISIS splined type cranks). Otherwise it just pushes against the crank itself and not the axle. That would result in pulling the threads out of the aluminum crank arm, which sounds like happened to you.
yup. that's what it was. At least it didn't ruin the crank threads. I removed the cap and tried the puller again and the crank came off easily. Thanks for the tip!
 
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