Controller help

[Ahtilathehun]

I took the madden voyage on my ebike. It was going fantastic and then the bike went completely dead. I have a front motor hub. It is 48v and 1000 watts.
So there is no power to the switch( on/off).
Like I said earlier it was the madden voyage I was just returning home after about 6 minutes of ride.
I heard a snap or a pop from the controller and then no power.
It was a 22amp controller.
Is it beyond repair? And if I have to replace it what should I buy?
Thanks for any advice. Kurt

 

[AHicks]

Follow the power, starting at the battery. See if there's any power even getting to the controller.

 

[Sierratim]

Did you but a DIY conversion kit? If so, I'd start with the supplier.

If not, with a 'snap and a pop' it could have been one or more of the power semiconductor switches (fets/mosfets). These can be replaced if you've got a bit of practice with a soldering iron. Disconnect the battery and pull the cover off your controller and take a look. You're looking for blackened devices that usually have a distinctive smell as well. Replacements can be ordered online using the numbering on the non-burned devices.

If you want to just swap out the controller, the simplest thing to do to use the same model in the original build, though 22A is just enough to drive the 1,000 motor. Upgrading to at least a 30A replacement would be a good idea. I'd suggest you check-out Grin Tech, https://www.ebikes.ca/ . They can help you pick a replacement controller.

 

[Ahtilathehun]

Follow the power, starting at the battery. See if there's any power even getting to the controller.

Ok I will do that.

 

[Ahtilathehun]

Did you but a DIY conversion kit? If so, I'd start with the supplier.

If not, with a 'snap and a pop' it could have been one or more of the power semiconductor switches (fets/mosfets). These can be replaced if you've got a bit of practice with a soldering iron. Disconnect the battery and pull the cover off your controller and take a look. You're looking for blackened devices that usually have a distinctive smell as well. Replacements can be ordered online using the numbering on the non-burned devices.

If you want to just swap out the controller, the simplest thing to do to use the same model in the original build, though 22A is just enough to drive the 1,000 motor. Upgrading to at least a 30A replacement would be a good idea. I'd suggest you check-out Grin Tech, https://www.ebikes.ca/ . They can help you pick a replacement controller.

Thanks for the help.
So if one of the Mosfets fails that would kill the power?
I ordered a 45 amp controller so as to avoid any problems with current. Again thanks for the help. I will test the mosfets as per the YouTube video by grin. I just didn’t want to start down an unknown path.

 

[Sierratim]

Thanks for the help.
So if one of the Mosfets fails that would kill the power?
I ordered a 45 amp controller so as to avoid any problems with current. Again thanks for the help. I will test the mosfets as per the YouTube video by grin. I just didn’t want to start down an unknown path.

The Mosfets 'modulate' the power to the motor in response to the throttle, PAS, etc. There are usually several Mosfets in parallel to drive higher power motors. A Mosfet failure will usually cut all power to the motor.

 

[Ahtilathehun]

That is a great place to start. So going to test the mosfets once I get a new multi meter. Mine seems to have gone missing. translation it is buried on my work bench.