Cheapest possible battery that will move a few miles (BBSO2 750W)

FrankyB

New Member
Hello!

Building my first ever electric bike.

Super thankful if someone can help me find the cheapest possible battery that will run the engine (AND not cause it any harm, not sure if even possible?).

Got a great deal on a new motor that shipped without a battery and want to start as wallet-friendly as possible, then get a nice juicy big boy battery next time I get a few extra hundreds to spend.

Would this one for example work?

 
Thank you so much, good that you mentioned the fire hazards involved. I'll make sure to keep an eye on it =)
 
That's a pack made out of cells intended for flashlights. It won't run a BBS02. Don't buy it or anything like it. A BBS02 will pull 25amps, so you need a pack capable of 30A.

Now this pack is pretty interesting, but it's 52V and some new BBS02 kits have to be reprogrammed to run on 52V.

I have used this one on my BBS02. I don't have a problem with luna packs. just their chargers.

The above are tiny packs and won't last long on a BBS02, so you could just spend more the first time, and get a bigger pack

JRA isn't kidding about fires.
 
I have one of the 6Ah 52V batteries and it gets damn hot when pushing my BBSHD, and BBS02B. Buying a cheap low power battery will be nothing but a headache. Do yourself a favor and get AT LEAST a 11Ah battery. UPP supposedly now has USA support. AND some pretty good deals. I have an older soft pack from them and it's served me well. And I beat it up regularly. Saggy after 4 years but still squeaks out fair mileage. Now shipping from USA https://www.uppbattery.com/c/us-stock-0527
 
The battery is the most important single part in an ebike. It's not the place to try and save money. Lithium batteries also need to be babied... not fully charged and not fully drained to extend the life of the battery pack. Charge to 80% and don't deplete past 20% using the Grin Satiator. That means using the biggest lithium battery that will hang on your bike (don't plan on carrying it in a backpack!) is the best way to get the most use out of what should be one of the most expensive components on your bike. Look at BatteryUniversity.com and ready everything you can about lithium batteries.
 
My LBS installed a 48v14amp battery on my bike 3 months ago.He uses batterys from https://ebikemarketplace.com/ . Works great.Be very careful of who you buy from.I'm lucky to have an experianced LBS 20 miles from me,and I don't mind paying a higher price for service and parts.
 
These appear to be, like most packs, from their Chinese ties. I'd be concerned about which cells are being used. The packs I just shopped do not mention which cells. Soft packs, cells covered with fish paper and then shrink wrapped are vulnerable to damage.
The prices are no saving over a builder like EM3ev with advanced features and a Bluetooth BMS. Their large packs have a hard case for maximum protection. Many of the China batteries still use nickel-coated steel strips to join cells. OK for small packs but not as efficient as pure nickel. Quality packs will be pure nickel. Builders like UPP will claim nickel makes builds much more expensive, but in fact, it's only a couple of dollars more for a typical 14Ah battery. EBMP has batteries that no one else supports and carries. Making them a valuable source, but thankfully as the market grows so do sources for rebuilds and repairs. If I needed a battery I could find nowhere else I'd knock on their door. But given a choice, I'd do a bit more research and perhaps use a manufacturer direct or supporting reseller.

Hopefully, we'll get more feedback on this source.
 
tomjasz, on your post about battery heat, when I started down this emtb road back in April, I had read a lot about the motors...in my case BBSHD...batteries, chargers, and a myriad of other components. I was logically concerned about fire, damage, charging protocols, etc. I mountain bike aggressively on rough terrain. For quite a few rides after a particularly tough section or two, I would stop and check my motor and battery for temperature. While the motor would get warm, it never achieved any of the temps indicating any problem.

The battery on the other hand never even seemed higher than ambient temps at any point...either under use or during charging. This always surprised me because I've felt battery heat in many components and vehicles that use batteries, and I felt that heat mainly during charging. I doubt I have some kind of super-duper, special battery...a Bicycle Motor Works, 52V/17.5AH...or charger...the common Luna Advanced charger you see frequently. I'm just curious...why does my battery not seem to get hot or even warm?
 
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LOL!...that's the first thing that came to my suspicious mind. tomjasz, on your post about battery heat, when I started down this emtb road back in April, I had read a lot about the motors...in my case BBSHD...batteries, chargers, and a myriad of other components. I was logically concerned about fire, damage, charging protocols, etc. I mountain bike aggressively on rough terrain. For quite a few rides after a particularly tough section or two, I would stop and check my motor and battery for temperature. While the motor would get warm, it never achieved any of the temps indicating any problem.

The battery on the other hand never even seemed higher than ambient temps at any point...either under use or during charging. This always surprised me because I've felt battery heat in many components and vehicles that use batteries, and I felt that heat mainly during charging. I doubt I have some kind of super-duper, special battery...a Bicycle Motor Works, 52V/17.5AH...or charger...the common Luna Advanced charger you see frequently. I'm just curious...why does my battery not seem to get hot or even warm?
It has enough Ah and quality cells that aren’t overtaxed providing the amps your are pulling.
 
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