azor tweelingfiets build thread

[tomjasz]

Yes the price seems outrageous but we sold them for 7 years with few issues. Quality costs…

 

[catgirleugenics]

I really like the single speed eChain from KMC on one of my bikes. When it is time, you might consider trying one. It is 27 or 28C, 81/82F here North of San Francisco today and I will be running dry lube for another five-weeks. We could trade for some of your rain. We also have big hills and enthusiasts from the Netherlands go wild here.

i'll keep that in mind next time. i was eyeing the e1 but decided to go with the z1 for now because it was half the price and i wasn't seeing anybody saying that the e1 lasted twice as long, maybe 1.5x at best.

i think i will hold on to the rain for now! i grew up in texas so i still have it programmed into me that rain is always a good thing lol. we definitely do not have any hills here though. i sometimes miss bombing a good hill but for getting around day to day the flat is ideal.

 

[PedalUma]

i'll keep that in mind next time. i was eyeing the e1 but decided to go with the z1 for now because it was half the price and i wasn't seeing anybody saying that the e1 lasted twice as long, maybe 1.5x at best.

i think i will hold on to the rain for now! i grew up in texas so i still have it programmed into me that rain is always a good thing lol. we definitely do not have any hills here though. i sometimes miss bombing a good hill but for getting around day to day the flat is ideal.

The little black thing in the middle of the first pic is a skyscraper. I like the last one best. Snow where it belongs. 100k away and on a mountain top. Nice build. An axle just arrived, 7mm short. I need a 183. Oh, man!

 

[tomjasz]

Snow where it belongs.

Sissy

 

[PedalUma]

I know. I grew up in the snow and even lived in ND for a year walking to school at 35 below.

 

[catgirleugenics]

still having chain issues just barely but the chain still catches on the frame every few rotations of the pedals. the bike shop Dewey mentioned wasn't much help, they are using a different hub and a newer frame which has different style dropouts for the tire, they just said it barely cleared but it cleared. i even switched down to a 19T rear sprocket from a 22T to try and get the chain to sit lower, which got it from grinding constantly to just intermittent.

i'm a bit at a loss for what to do here. i think the only thing left to do is go from using a wide 1/8" chain to a narrow 3/32" one. i can't go any smaller on the rear sprocket and i think the 40T lekkie is the most offset i can get before the chain starts making contact with the motor housing. i guess if push comes to shove i could grind a few mm off the bottom bracket? or is that too crazy.

edit: here is someone who had to do what i was thinking to get the chainline to work on their bike. the frame on mine is similar, the bb sticks out a few mm beyond the frame. i could just grind it flush to the frame and then put a spacer on the other side. this would just make my pedals weirdly aligned i guess.

 

[Dewey]

Sounds like a plan. Regarding Q factor BBS motors push the pedals out to the right anyway, Lekkie buzz bars have a left side offset crank arm that pushes the pedal out by 15.6mm. Since you will be grinding down the right drive side of the Bottom Bracket by a few mm, you might be OK with the stock Bafang crank arms.

 

[tomjasz]

I have a large-frame KHS Smoothie that needs a chain guide to clear a heavy-duty motorcycle-style kickstand.
In researching products and materials I learned about Delrin.

I fashion a small (thin?) block or fitted piece to affix to the frame as a protector. It's really amazingly durable long-lasting with even severe friction.

It'll take some searching but it's out there... small quantities being the biggest challenge, but look to it's listed uses for door slides, etc for possible parts to work for your application.

Below is my guide it's a black Delrin friction part with well over 500 miles and still not showing material loss from wear. You could form Delrin sheet with heat.

"DuPont™ Delrin® acetal - low-friction high-wear resistance with high strength & stiffness. High-performance Delrin® material for more durable, thinner, and lighter part solutions"

 

[catgirleugenics]

thanks y'all. i'm probably going to try using a narrower chain first just to see what it does. maybe even a 10 speed chain or something. i would like to avoid adding a big ugly pulley or having a constant friction point on the frame, feels like asking for trouble. some delrin on a vertical friction point i would be ok with but pushing the chain out to the side in the middle seems like an easy way to speed up the wear done to my sprocket/chainwheel.

 

[tomjasz]

delrin on a vertical friction point

Which is my suggestion. I showed my Delrin part as an example of its excellent wear resistance. My thought was to shape a 2-3mm thick bar, 25-50mm wide around or on the frame component. But good luck with the chain. I feel your pain...

 

[PedalUma]

Is the cog flipped to stick out? Yes, you can file down the right side of the BB by 3mm. You will not feel it when ridding.

 

[catgirleugenics]

Which is my suggestion. I showed my Delrin part as an example of its excellent wear resistance. My thought was to shape a 2-3mm thick bar, 25-50mm wide around or on the frame component. But good luck with the chain. I feel your pain...

ah ok, my misunderstanding. it is rubbing on the point indicated in these pictures. that was why i said that adding a delrin spacer in there would push it horizontally and probably be bad. definitely painful.

Is the cog flipped to stick out? Yes, you can file down the right side of the BB by 3mm. You will not feel it when ridding.

no it's flipped towards the hub, so the chain is as far over as i can physically get it. do you have anything you would recommend for a spacer on the left side of the bb? i feel like if i just throw a washer in there the motor plate isn't going to hold everything still like it should, and it's 68mm so i'm already at the minimum length required before grinding. would plastic work? i could print one out of solid ABS/PETG pretty easily.

 

[PedalUma]

ah ok, my misunderstanding. it is rubbing on the point indicated in these pictures. that was why i said that adding a delrin spacer in there would push it horizontally and probably be bad. definitely painful.


no it's flipped towards the hub, so the chain is as far over as i can physically get it. do you have anything you would recommend for a spacer on the left side of the bb? i feel like if i just throw a washer in there the motor plate isn't going to hold everything still like it should, and it's 68mm so i'm already at the minimum length required before grinding. would plastic work? i could print one out of solid ABS/PETG pretty easily.

Looks like you need to remove, or move material, not add material. There is a tool that as you crank it down will place a depression into a steel tube. Or grind 3mm from the right side of the bottom bracket. That will move the motor in toward the center of the bike. The diameter is the same as a threadless headset spacer/washer. If you need one ask a bike shop.

 

[catgirleugenics]

Looks like you need to remove, or move material, not add material. There is a tool that as you crank it down will place a depression into a steel tube. Or grind 3mm from the right side of the bottom bracket. That will move the motor in toward the center of the bike. The diameter is the same as a threadless headset spacer/washer. If you need one ask a bike shop.

oh that's what i meant, after grinding down the right side (drivetrain side) what to add to the left side to space things back out. i will try and get a washer, just a bit worried about the motor slipping since it won't be biting into the bb anymore but rather into the washer which could turn. that's a later problem though i guess.

 

[PedalUma]

oh that's what i meant, after grinding down the right side (drivetrain side) what to add to the left side to space things back out. i will try and get a washer, just a bit worried about the motor slipping since it won't be biting into the bb anymore but rather into the washer which could turn. that's a later problem though i guess.

Any washer would only be applied to the drive side. Not the brace side. But you will not need one.

 

[Dewey]

I use a BSB-1 stabilizer bar that acts like a torque arm that would help prevent the motor turning in the bottom bracket.

 

[catgirleugenics]

I use a BSB-1 stabilizer bar that acts like a torque arm that would help prevent the motor turning in the bottom bracket.

good to know thank you.

Any washer would only be applied to the non-drive side. But you will not need one.

why would i not need one? if i grind 3mm off the drive side that means i need to add 3mm to the non drive correct?

 

[PedalUma]

I just made the correction. Drive side, not brace side, can get a spacer. It will just stick out a little. No big deal.

 

[tomjasz]

plastic work?

Delrin is FAR more resistant to wear

 

[PedalUma]

I just did a search of Bottom Bracket Spacer. There are dozens of offerings from $3 to $4. I will not sat Pounds because that would imply weight.