Changing tires

My bike's display is easy to rotate on the handlebars, or to remove.

The plastic on mine seems thin. If it were made of nylon I'd feel better about doing that. But, my shifter also is too high, it will hit too. I'm thinking that ebikemom's solution might be best. But I'll have to change my throttle side hand grip, or cut it off.
 
I was hoping that I didn't have to remove the display. But, it is what it is. Did you get large fat tubeless tires? I was told my tires are too big at 2.125? I also have seen articles about tubeless tire maintenance which seems daunting. I'd really like to know where I can get tubeless for my wheels particularly the brand name. Nice bike!

Note in my picture of the Haibike Full FatSix I posted in post #2, I have bar ends. These are not as big as the Ergons posted by Tcombest. Mine are Cane Creek Ergo Control Bar Ends. Link: https://www.canecreek.com/product/ergo-control-bar-ends/

I have those Ergon bar ends on my Trek Soho DLX. They are made of a hard nylon and are exclusive only to the Ergon style grip. When I went "fatbiking" first with my Specialized Fatboy and Haibike Full FatSix, I went with the Cane Creek Ergo bar ends based on positive reviews on MTBR. The Cane Creeks fit nicely in the palm of the hands and the kraton rubber is soft (unlike the Ergon's) which help absorb road and trail vibration. Plus, they help balance the bike as well as providing a touching point with the ground in those times I was fixing flat tires with the bike upside-down. With they Cane Creeks, all you'd have to do is loosen up the grips (if they are the kind designed to be secured with a screw on the grip itself), loosen up the brake handles, shifters and just slide it all on the handlebar inward about a half inch or so to fit the Cane Creek Bar end, then fit everything back snug....

The Haibike Full FatSix is a fat tired mountain bike and those tires and rims are part of the bike's group set. Tubeless can be done on most every bike, but best to ensure your tires are "tubeless ready". When I set out to go tubeless on my Haibike, I started using brand new Jumbo Jims as I had a lot of wear on the older tires & I just wanted to start fresh....

Setting up tubeless, I used flashing tape made by Zip, found in Home Depot. Cut it to size to go around the rim; the side benefit is it is very, very pliable; which aids in sealing the rim. There are countless videos out on the internet on how to do it. This is the one that helped me the best as I went about doing it on my own:

And here is another one from Park. You cannot go wrong with any of the fine Park Tools bike maintenance videos on youtube, IMO:

You can also have your friendly neighborhood local bike shop do the conversion for you.
 
Last edited:
As long as the knobs on my kenda tires are thicker than 1/8" , I don't get flats. I use cheap schwinn tubes. 26x2" knobby tires are $28. I change tires when the knobs are worn down: about 1 1/2 years. The knobby tires are "off road" but the road is where all the glass and metal shards are. I roll right over them. Changed my electric wheel to kenda knobby before I left the house, threw away the thin oem tire.
The converted bike with the display, I made a fake handlebar out of 3/4 tubing and mounted it on struts above the main handlebar. If I need to change a tire, (split a used tire from 201? Pacific MTB last time, not the tube's fault) I back off the machine screws on the clamps and rotate it down. Then fiip the bike normally. With the struts the display is closer to me anyway, easier to see. Made the struts out of a scrap box fan frame.
 
Carry a Gaadi style double ended tube as a spare. The tube can be changed by laying the bike on it's side without turning it completely upside down. It can even be done with the bike upright on it's kick stand since you don't have to remove the wheel.

https://www.amazon.com/GAADI-TU4509-Parent-Schrader-Valve-Tube/dp/B00HR088OG

Although the double ended tube can be used as a permanent replacement, I swap it with a conventional tube when I get the bike home.
 
Why do you even need to flip the bike over to fix a tire?

 
As long as the knobs on my kenda tires are thicker than 1/8" , I don't get flats. I use cheap schwinn tubes. 26x2" knobby tires are $28. I change tires when the knobs are worn down: about 1 1/2 years. The knobby tires are "off road" but the road is where all the glass and metal shards are. I roll right over them. Changed my electric wheel to kenda knobby before I left the house, threw away the thin oem tire.
The converted bike with the display, I made a fake handlebar out of 3/4 tubing and mounted it on struts above the main handlebar. If I need to change a tire, (split a used tire from 201? Pacific MTB last time, not the tube's fault) I back off the machine screws on the clamps and rotate it down. Then fiip the bike normally. With the struts the display is closer to me anyway, easier to see. Made the struts out of a scrap box fan frame.

I don't like the way knobbies role. Interesting reversal of the usage of a handlebar extension. My shifter is still going to be in the way. I hate to have to loosen everything to change a tire. I'm a road bike man at heart. Not used to these issues.
 
In addition to these tips, I'd also recommend looking at carrying a can of bike fix-a-flat and a simple plastic shopping bag. The can is about the size of a soda can. It totally kept me from having to do any repairs, when I got a flat from a stone that looked like a tiny railroad spike. Then, if the can doesn't work, you can use the bag to avoid getting sprayed while you deflate the tube and do your regular repair.
 
In addition to these tips, I'd also recommend looking at carrying a can of bike fix-a-flat and a simple plastic shopping bag. The can is about the size of a soda can. It totally kept me from having to do any repairs, when I got a flat from a stone that looked like a tiny railroad spike. Then, if the can doesn't work, you can use the bag to avoid getting sprayed while you deflate the tube and do your regular repair.

Ahhhh, the easy way out. Very good idea. Thanks.
 
I scratched up the bike computer on my GT hybrid when I flipped it to remount wheels, It was only a $8 computer but learned my lesson. Now I throw a towel under the bars when I flip a bike.

The linear tube is easy. Especially nice for hub motor. I have them in our flat kits, but haven't had to use it. Have tried them out to make sure they work. What I would do is first try a patch w/o removing the wheel. Then the liner tube as next step.

 
I scratched up the bike computer on my GT hybrid when I flipped it to remount wheels, It was only a $8 computer but learned my lesson. Now I throw a towel under the bars when I flip a bike.

The linear tube is easy. Especially nice for hub motor. I have them in our flat kits, but haven't had to use it. Have tried them out to make sure they work. What I would do is first try a patch w/o removing the wheel. Then the liner tube as next step.


My computer protrudes so far out that a towel would not be enough to protect it. My shifting lever also is vulnerable. I've never repaired a tire with a patch. I would imagine finding a very small leak could be difficult. When the time comes I'm going to get puncture proof tires or a liner, and the thickest tube I can find, and slime. Handlebar Bar End Grips seem to be a good answer (see previous), if they'll install without messing with throttle control.
 
Last edited:
I've given up on patches and just carry 2 tubes. I carry a spliceable tube if I get caught in the rain or snow or something. else I just do the job right with a new tube and let it go until the tire wears out. Pity those Schwinn roll up tires are such garbage, I've been caught twice with a ripped tire. The roll up tires pop off the wheel and let the tube blow out the crevice. It's not that hard to unclip the wires and unfasten the torque arm.
 
Back