Chain maintenance.

[Trail Cruiser]

Since mid drive is the more popular ebike, it is much more important that the chain is properly lubricated. Contrary to the highly marketed approach on "de-greasing" the chain first before applying the lubricant, water and other de-greasing chemicals can actually be trapped inside the rollers and sabotage your good intentions.

 

[Nova Haibike]

You certainly do not need to degrease a chain every single time it is lubricated. But if the drivetrain looks dirty (as in neglected), there is no other choice but to degrease...and boy, do I degrease a lot of neglected bikes!

My preferred lube these days is Rock 'n' Roll Gold; it does a great job of cleaning the chain before depositing the waxy lubricant. Here is my chain after 900 miles. I just wipe it after lubricating, which I do once a week, or every other week:

 

[Reid]

Since most bike chains are neglected, all lubrication schemes are good, I think.

For myself, I have gradually gravitated to using synthetic ATF from a dropper bottle.

After a run if there is dirt on the tires I hose everything down, flush off all the grit I can,

I force the water jet on the chain.

I bring the bike inside my living room (yep, am lucky it is not a horse) and turn on the electric fan.

I apply a liberal amount of synthetic ATF (any ATF or any other light oil would be fine, too) while turning the cranks about 3 revolutions backward.

I continue turning the cranks for moment and then hold a crunched up paper towel or old cloth to the chain as it moves by;

tremendous amounts of blackened lubricant full of road dirt and metal fines is collected on the constantly refolded rag.

It is a simple fact that any chain oiled will attract silica road dust like a purpose built magnet. This cannot be helped. For this reason

I clean my chain for about a minute every day. The oil displaces the water from the hose job. The chain does not rust.

There are about six "I" declarations in this opinion piece. They are deliberate because I wish all to know that this is a mere opinion piece. Everyone should know that all ways of lubing and cleaning a bike chain are vastly better than the 99.9% commonality of the other, more popular method: doing nothing for long intervals at a time.

 

[Ebikefevercure]

Most chain degreasers are oil-based so when the solvents dry after a few minutes the residue is a form of lubricant. Never use WD40 unless you plan to flush that off as well. WD will break down new lube if remaining... Finishline chain cleaner is (expensive 8oz) odorless mineral spirits (cheap 1gallon) with chainlube deluted in it. You can make your own. I use it for oil paintings and immediately recognized the smell. I ride dusty prairie paths and flushing the chain is essential and easy. Wipe dry and wait 10 minutes. Lube your chain/spockets/derailer to perfection. I hate the "dry or ceramic" lubes, awful to clean off, worse than the gravel in wet lube. I just switched to "wet" this year, much better if you're a clean chain freak like me. .

Did I mention you can reuse "chaincleaner" after sediment falls? Recollect in a sealed container with a magnet for the next day. Pour off the top into a "clean container" for another go. Depending how thifty you want to get.

 

[Trail Cruiser]

After cleaning my chain and sprocket, I end up putting a drop of lube one link at a time.

 

[Ebikefevercure]

After cleaning my chain and sprocket, I end up putting a drop of lube one link at a time.

Exactly, methodically apply... don't forget derailer sprockets with the bike sideways

 

[elliot friedman]

Here's my chain maintenance procedure......WAX

then he updated the procedure with water...

much cleaner drive chain. and it's cool too.

Do a search, there's multiple videos showing the benefits and here's the wattage ratings of various commercial bicycle chain lubricants.....

 

[mrgold35]

It is really dry, dusty, and sandy in the southwest. I can go several weeks if I just work commute on paved roads. Pretty much need to clean the chain almost after every ride if I hit the trails.

I use Pedro's Oranj Peelz Citrus Degreaser to clean my chain. Wash my bike as normal. I use my Xpower A-2 Airrow 2 speed air blower to remove excess water from the chain, gears, frame, brakes, etc... I then I use either Finish Line Ceramic wax chain lube or Finish Line Teflon chain Lube. Either one seems to work equally well for my riding conditions.

The air blower was the best thing I purchased for drying my bike after a wash and getting excess degreaser from the chain links before lubing.

 

[Ebikefevercure]

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists).

If you like to take the chain off for a thorough clean, use something like this. I would use an oil based degreaser and let it soak in sonic vibes; reuse your washing material/cleaner... Hang it, rinse it, peg it, lube it, ride it. My riding buddy swears it's the easiest, once a month during season. I don't have the quickrelease chain links yet so, I'll keep it on a dummy hub until I feel the bath is necessary. His chain looks like jewelry when he takes it out of the tank, I'll give him that.

So many ways, it's what kind of mess you want to play in.

 

[Captain Slow]

I'm curious, who has a Bosch system and how to do maintain your chain. I read that when you peddle backwards the chain doesn't move.

I test rode a Super Commuter 7+ today and yep, move the pedals backwards and the chain doesn't move.

 

[Nova Haibike]

I don't have a Bosch bike, but Yamaha is the same; you cannot pedal it backwards to move the chain. The simplest thing to do is lift the rear wheel so you can turn the crank and advance the chain. There are some bicycle storage stands that will lift the rear wheel off the ground so you can do simple maintenance.

 

[Trail Cruiser]