Chain lube recommendations?

[Trickster]

Could be opening up a intriguing thread here.
Used to use Tri-flow back in the day, which btw was 15 years ago, still have some left.
There must be some “new and improved” versions out now.
What is everybody using and recommending?

Thanks
Rick

 

[Sierratim]

My sons raced cross crounty MTBs in high school and college. Tri-flow was their go to lube having the lowest 'stiction'. They've since moved on to lubes that require less manintenance.

There is a thread on chain lubes and maintenance here, https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-mid-drive-chain-care-thread.32918/page-3 .

There are a lot of approaches to this. I clean my chain with a 'scrubber' and orange degreaser every 300 miles or so, wipe down with WD40 sprayed on a rag and lube with with Finish Line's Dry Lube. I'll do a quick clean of the derailleur and cassette as well. Since I have a mid-drive ebike I replace the chain every 1,000 miles or so and do a deep clean of the other drive components at the same time, but there are plenty of other opinions on this...

 

[Nova Haibike]

Chain Lube. I use Rock n Roll Gold and Extreme, which are wax lubes.

 

[Dallant]

Lately I’ve degreased with Finish Line degreaser unit/Simple Green and lubed with Finish Line Dry and this combo seems to work very well.

 

[Sierratim]

This video describes the products I use;

.

Unlike the video, I don't use a spray bottle for anything on my bikes; too much of a chance of contaminating the disc brake rotors or pads.

 

[FlatSix911]

Could be opening up a intriguing thread here.
Used to use Tri-flow back in the day, which btw was 15 years ago, still have some left.
There must be some “new and improved” versions out now.
What is everybody using and recommending?

Thanks
Rick

I also used Tri-flow back in the day and have now switched to a dry ceramic lube that helps keep the chain clean.

Muc-Off C3 Dry Ceramic Chain Lube - Accessories

Buy the Muc-Off C3 Dry Ceramic Chain Lube online or shop all Accessories from Competitivecyclist.com.

www.competitivecyclist.com

 

[smorgasbord]

There is a thread on chain lubes and maintenance here, https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-mid-drive-chain-care-thread.32918/page-3 .

There are a lot of approaches to this.

Yes, do read that whole thread, and yes, there are a lot of approaches.

I personally use NixFrixShun, but haven't used it long enough to say how great it is or isn't. If you're on a 12-speed bike, then definitely check out SRAM's X01 chain next time you need a replacement. I've seen two separate tests showing that it's far and away the longest lasting 12-speed chain on the market.

 

[Whalebreath]

Super-Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil the Best I've found cheap as chips and widely available.

 

[fooferdoggie]

been using rock and roll lube. it keeps me from having to scrub the chain. needs re applied very hundred miles or so.

 

[Browneye]

Still love TriFlow.

 

[teskow]

My personal experience with dry lubes is that they do not do a very good job of actual lubricating. Whether it is on a bike chain, farm machinery chain or squeaky door knobs. They are clean and the dirt doesn't stick so much but at best they are very short lived. I discovered that while lubricating long ( four 8 foot) piano hinges on my hanger doors. I tried anything and everything and they would be squeaking and sticking shortly. I go to the airport about once a week. I was about to leave one day and the door hinges are squeaking I noticed a quart squeeze bottle of 90 gear oil. I decided to oil the hinges with it. I squirted it on the top of the hinges and it soaked in during the week. When I got there the next time the doors operated as they were on ball bearings. It is about two years past and they still operate smoothly with no squeaks or tendency to freeze up.
Is it messy, stinky and collects dust, to be sure if one doesn't wipe it clean..
I don't believe in using a degreaser on a chain either as it may compromise the lubricant and I feel it just washes the surface dirt into the bearing surfaces of the chain.
If you use gear oil lube and let the chain sit overnight to soak in to the bearing surfaces then wipe it as dry as one can your chain will be lubricated for a long time.

 

[FlatSix911]

My personal experience with dry lubes is that they do not do a very good job of actual lubricating. Whether it is on a bike chain, farm machinery chain or squeaky door knobs. They are clean and the dirt doesn't stick so much but at best they are very short lived. I discovered that while lubricating long ( four 8 foot) piano hinges on my hanger doors. I tried anything and everything and they would be squeaking and sticking shortly. I go to the airport about once a week. I was about to leave one day and the door hinges are squeaking I noticed a quart squeeze bottle of 90 gear oil. I decided to oil the hinges with it. I squirted it on the top of the hinges and it soaked in during the week. When I got there the next time the doors operated as they were on ball bearings. It is about two years past and they still operate smoothly with no squeaks or tendency to freeze up.
Is it messy, stinky and collects dust, to be sure if one doesn't wipe it clean..
I don't believe in using a degreaser on a chain either as it may compromise the lubricant and I feel it just washes the surface dirt into the bearing surfaces of the chain.
If you use gear oil lube and let the chain sit overnight to soak in to the bearing surfaces then wipe it as dry as one can your chain will be lubricated for a long time.

I would not recommend gear oil if you ride on dirt trails... your chain will quickly become a dirty mess.
Bike chains are very different from piano door hinges and operate in a much more exposed environment.

Have you tried using the ultimate dry lubricant, molten chain wax?
Studies show it lasts the longest of all lubricants tested on bike chains. (too much prep work for me but a lot of the pro riders use it)

 

[teskow]

No I have not tried the molten wax. That may be very good but as you indicate it is way too much monkeying around for a casual rider. As you say an oiled chain will collect debris so it needs to be brushed off and wiped well on the outside surfaces.
Looking around at the trend in modern world it looks to me like the way to go for less maintenance is a modern belt drive with a rear hub shifter or a center drive shifter. My wife and I rented 8 speed hub shifters across the pond and have to say I loved it, it was so simple and she could operate the system well. Combine that with a belt and for the casual e-bike rider it seems like the cats meow to me.

 

[Dono Be]

I just finished watching the Waxing videos and remembered when I was 15 years old I was waxing my bike chain...that was 1982. I thought I was the coolest kid in my neighborhood...waxing all my friends bike chains. Earlier on when I was 9 years old I was cracking baby chestnut open and using the oil found inside LOL

 

[FlatSix911]

No, I have not tried the molten wax. That may be very good but as you indicate it is way too much monkeying around for a casual rider. As you say an oiled chain will collect debris so it needs to be brushed off and wiped well on the outside surfaces.

Looking around at the trend in modern world it looks to me like the way to go for less maintenance is a modern belt drive with a rear hub shifter or a center drive shifter. My wife and I rented 8-speed hub shifters across the pond and have to say I loved it, it was so simple and she could operate the system well. Combine that with a belt and for the casual e-bike rider, it seems like the cats meow to me.

I think you are right on the money... the ultimate low maintenance drive system is a Carbon Belt with an Internally Geared Hub...

 

[indianajo]

I use tractor hydraulic fluid biweekly, sus 46 https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-all-season-hydraulic-oil-iso-46-2-gal $22 for 2 gallons
I got 5000 miles out of my first 8 speed chain. I have a hub drive. I pedal unpowered about 80% of the time. I clean the chain when it gets johnson grass or string in it, with a 1/8" screwdriver. I clean the dirt off the derailleur takeups when I turn the bike upside down, usually to change a tube or tire every 1500-2000 miles or so.
As 5000 miles is 2 1/2 years, I don't feel it is worthwhile to buy a frame with a takeout for belt replacement, or to pay the 10% drag penalty of an IGH over derailleurs. I had a SA S80 IGH, which got to where it wouldn't retain the shifter pawl after 500 miles. 8th speed, the spring default, is unrideable.

 

[Trickster]

I use tractor hydraulic fluid biweekly, sus 46 https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-all-season-hydraulic-oil-iso-46-2-gal $22 for 2 gallons
I got 5000 miles out of my first 8 speed chain. I have a hub drive. I pedal unpowered about 80% of the time. I clean the chain when it gets johnson grass or string in it, with a 1/8" screwdriver. I clean the dirt off the derailleur takeups when I turn the bike upside down, usually to change a tube or tire every 1500-2000 miles or so.
As 5000 miles is 2 1/2 years, I don't feel it is worthwhile to buy a frame with a takeout for belt replacement, or to pay the 10% drag penalty of an IGH over derailleurs. I had a SA S80 IGH, which got to where it wouldn't retain the shifter pawl after 500 miles. 8th speed, the spring default, is unrideable.

So if you have 5000 miles on the bike but only pedal 20% of the time, your chain and derailleur only have 1000 miles.
Correct?

 

[indianajo]

I pedal unpowered 80% of the time. Many times when the motor is working I help it to keep my pulse/breath rate up.

 

[Trickster]

I pedal unpowered 80% of the time. Many times when the motor is working I help it to keep my pulse/breath rate up.

My bad, my math was upside down. So about 4000 miles on the chain, yes that is good. On my Mtn bike I was lucky to get about 2000, but it was abused off-road a lot in the muck and goo. And I really got to hate cleaning the chain/bike after every ride. Never left it dirty, so it was always ready for the next ride. I wish I could remember the name of the chain cleaning gadget I did get years ago, it clips over the chain and you put a chain cleaner in it and run the chain through with the bike up on a stand. It has bristles and wheels inside to clean both the top and bottom of the chain,
worked like a charm. But I think the ex wife ended up with it, along with my house and half my pension.☹

 

[Sierratim]

My bad, my math was upside down. So about 4000 miles on the chain, yes that is good. On my Mtn bike I was lucky to get about 2000, but it was abused off-road a lot in the muck and goo. And I really got to hate cleaning the chain/bike after every ride. Never left it dirty, so it was always ready for the next ride. I wish I could remember the name of the chain cleaning gadget I did get years ago, it clips over the chain and you put a chain cleaner in it and run the chain through with the bike up on a stand. It has bristles and wheels inside to clean both the top and bottom of the chain,
worked like a charm. But I think the ex wife ended up with it, along with my house and half my pension.☹

Sounds just like a chain scrubber like this one https://www.parktool.com/product/cyclone-chain-scrubber-cm-5-2 .

I find that the shifting on both my ebike and mech bike starts to get 'sloppy'after a couple of hundred miles. Cleaning the chain with a scrubber and applying a light chain lube fixes it just about every time.