Chain guard sheared off of chain ring + a few other things

[GuruUno]

Took the bike out today after the mid-winter service (47 degrees after 3 miserable weeks of snow, cold, and rain), installed a new chain [Speed Wax treated], new brake pads, brake bleed, new chain-ring, new tires, new tubes, new seat, etc., and about 10 or so miles into a 14.32 miles ride only items of concern, looking for opinions.

1> Chain guard flew off while riding, photos below. Overtightened? Thread lock? It's just plastic with tiny screws. I'll order a new one but is this not odd or just too tight?
2> New tires (Electrak 2.0 Armadillo Reflect 700 x 51) and tubes (MICHELIN Protek Max Etrto 47/58-622 Air Chamber 40 mm Presta, 29 '' 1.9 '' -> 2.30)....
3> Consumed 36% of battery at 47 degrees in ECO mode and 14.32 miles

The bike was fine, but I've not seen such consumption of battery and was curious if the added weight of the tires and tubes would dictate such usage.

Finally, I'm making the assumption I may have contaminated the pads/rotors doing the bleed (I swear I was super careful) as they are now squealing upon stopping. I saw posted here a required chemical to wipe the pads and rotors to correct this. IS that the fix or will I need to replace them?

 

[TS25]

Took the bike out today after the mid-winter service (47 degrees after 3 miserable weeks of snow, cold, and rain), installed a new chain [Speed Wax treated], new brake pads, brake bleed, new chain-ring, new tires, new tubes, new seat, etc., and about 10 or so miles into a 14.32 miles ride only items of concern, looking for opinions.

Finally, I'm making the assumption I may have contaminated the pads/rotors doing the bleed (I swear I was super careful) as they are now squealing upon stopping. I saw posted here a required chemical to wipe the pads and rotors to correct this. IS that the fix or will I need to replace them?

Shimano uses mineral oil based brake fluid. If contaminated clean your rotors and pads with acetone and alcohol, then use sand paper with the pads and test it afterwards. Repeat the sanding and if that doesn't work, get new brake pads.
What did you bleed your brake system for? You shouldn't touch it if it ain't necessary. No need to regularly bleed a mineral oil based brake system!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

1. You might have overtightened the chainring guard screws. They need to be tightened very lightly (with a threadlocker). Note: You can ride without the guard.
2. I like your choice of tyres and inner tubes.
3. High battery consumption in the wintertime is normal. Was it windy? Don't worry. The situation will come back to usual in the warm season.

Your brakes may squeal because not all pistons move. Winter rides make the delicate pistons covered with some deposit. It happens that only one piston of four really works! Calm down. Ride on! Wait till Spring and visit a good LBS for brake inspection at that time.

 

[GuruUno]

Ordered a new guard. Screws?
Also, just for shi%s and giggles, I'd like to get spare/additional chainring screws.
My research shows that we have a Praxis Works Custom Aluminum Alloy spider/crank.
So, I'd assume that the screws/bolts are also aluminum.
Any source to get spares? Part #'s?
Stefan, you are a VAULT OF KNOWLEDGE, just like that Sierra guy

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Screws?

Cannot help you with that because I can't remove mine just to measure them
Let me tell you an anecdote. @TS25 who is a valuable Forum member made me buy spare chainrings, specifically those (48T, red):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082KGR9S9/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I needed two extra items:

1. Matching MTB aluminium (red) bolts
2. A tool to hold the nut from behind while tightening the bolt.

It turned out the clearance between the DECKAS chainring and the motor chamber was too tight to use the tool. So I had to rotate the Vado, remove the motor cover then replace the ring. And I pulled the bolt. Actually, two of them! Which made the whole work wasted; I eventually installed a spare Praxis chainring.

Afterwards, I bought a bigger number of steel MTB bolts:

Amazon.com

Now, with two spare red DECKAS chainrings and many spare steel bolts, I'm stocked for years Funny fact is you don't use any chainring-guard with these chainrings. But they don't colour match my pedals!

 

[GuruUno]

I did read that (so I did not get lambasted for not searching the previous postings), however, I'd rather not change from OEM. Thank you in any event. I'm curious if they are the OEM Shimano aluminum or steel 8mm x1.25mm or?

 

[TS25]

Cannot help you with that because I can't remove mine just to measure them
Let me tell you an anecdote. @TS25 who is a valuable Forum member made me buy spare chainrings, specifically those (48T, red):

Now, with two spare red DECKAS chainrings and many spare steel bolts, I'm stocked for years

Funny fact is you don't use any chainring-guard with these chainrings. But they don't colour match my pedals!

Not true, I never made you buy red chainrings as I knew you have orange shoes and blue pedals
(you taught me "Galizian style" afterwards only).

And yes, some people do use chainring-guards even with the Deckas chainring, and they even showed pictures of it:

Chain ring tooth selection

@E-Wheels Here a couple of shots, and you can see just how tight everything is in there. Sorry the second one is a bit dark because of the sunlight, but you can see my US Postal water bottle - that will tell you who my hero used to be, but that is another story :). Looks to me like there will...

electricbikereview.com

How about borrowing a/my drilling machine?

 

[TS25]

... I'd like to get spare/additional chainring screws.
My research shows that we have a Praxis Works Custom Aluminum Alloy spider/crank.
So, I'd assume that the screws/bolts are also aluminum.
Any source to get spares? Part #'s?

Good luck. How about asking your Specialized LBS?

The Specialized chainring bolts are magnetic so I doubt that they are aluminium.
M8 and 9mm/0,348 inch long, Allen 5.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Not true, I never made you buy red chainrings as I knew you have orange shoes and blue pedals
(you taught me "Galizian style" afterwards only).

@TS25 (I don't dare to use your real name!): You're the finest companion I met on these Forums! Once the "pest" is over:

• Name a route in Germany
• I'll name a route in Poland

We're going to ride together!

 

[TS25]

We're going to ride together!

That's a fine idea! Sorry to say I've got to sort out my knee trouble first.

 

[GuruUno]

Figured it out. When I was turning right onto the adjacent road the road became the shoulder, it looked like the asphalt road because it was as dark as the pavement but because of all the snow melting and dampness, the shoulder was but gravel and cinder. After realizing it, I saw that the edge of the pavement was raised about 1 to 3 inches and awaited a spot to "jump" onto the road while riding without stopping, and the edge of the chainguard must have just nicked the asphalt as that jump was occurring, causing the shearing of the guard.
Whew.
So, anyone got any idea what screws I'd need for the bash guard?

 

[Brendon@OEB]

Chainguard number is S179900050, they don't list the bolts but they're a simple self tapping style, pretty short too. As Stefan said you don't have to have that part to ride, but it's nice to keep it factory. Best bet is to contact a shop as they'll have to contact the service portion of Spec and they'll send the hardware separate. These parts that seldom get replaced aren't worth the effort for them to make a SKU for them, no surprise they treat these small screws in this fashion.

I'd stay away from those DECKAS chainrings, look pretty low end. Factory is a good thought, works pretty darn well! My $.02 for what that's worth.

RE brakes, go down a hill and softly ride them, thus heating them up, should bring some heat into the rotors and pads baking whatever is on them.

I've found cold weather makes my brakes "talk" to me a bit too, that and dust particulate, bottom line don't sweat it so long as they work. Especially since these bikes come with a semi-metallic pad which can talk to you now and again.

Increased consumption, as Stefan pointed out, totally normal. Reminder to keep the batt inside if you don't have heated storage!

The service interval of replacement of said parts is great but you can let things ride for a bit longer if you want. As stated, the brakes are more of a time thing, bleed annually (and I think you've only had yours 6 months?) but otherwise, if they work just run em! Also, once you've worn through pads/rotors and it's time for a bleed consider it maybe upgrade time? I'm running SLX 4 piston brakes with a 203mm rotor in front and 180mm (the old front rotor) out back.

 

[McCorby]

The service interval of replacement of said parts is great but you can let things ride for a bit longer if you want. As stated, the brakes are more of a time thing, bleed annually (and I think you've only had yours 6 months?) but otherwise, if they work just run em! Also, once you've worn through pads/rotors and it's time for a bleed consider it maybe upgrade time? I'm running SLX 4 piston brakes with a 203mm rotor in front and 180mm (the old front rotor) out back.

If there are no leaks, why would you need to bleed them annually? If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!

 

[Brendon@OEB]

If there are no leaks, why would you need to bleed them annually? If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!

Just like Magura clutch systems on KTM/Husqvarna motorcycles, the fluid does age and require flushing to make sure the master cyl and slave operate correctly. Pretty normal stuff, maybe you could do it every couple years depending on use/weather. Harsher weather=more maintenance to ensure 100% function.

 

[GuruUno]

I loosened the brake line by mistake

 

[McCorby]

Most bicycles use a mineral oil based fluid, not the brake fluid motorcycles use, which breaks down pretty quickly in comparison.

 

[Brendon@OEB]

Most bicycles use a mineral oil based fluid, not the brake fluid motorcycles use, which breaks down pretty quickly in comparison.

Incorrect, Magura systems use mineral oil, just like in their bicycle product. Still requires flushing to ensure things work as they should.

Also, GuduUno, don't waste the money on fancy tubes, run those good Tannus liners and basic tubes, hard to beat that combo.

 

[GuruUno]

I have had zero issues with the OEM equipment, no flats, etc., however, I saw Stefan got those thorn-resistant tubes with his 2" tires, though it would the killer combo to keep it from any possible flats, etc.

 

[Brendon@OEB]

I have had zero issues with the OEM equipment, no flats, etc., however, I saw Stefan got those thorn-resistant tubes with his 2" tires, though it would the killer combo to keep it from any possible flats, etc.

Fair, keep in mind flat tires are a fact of life and happen!

In my personal experience the thicker tubes never live up to the rep and the Tannus liners are the hot setup. Again, run what you have, see how it goes!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Brendon, I think Guru's brakes are Deore XT. Why should he replace them?