Chain came off: Vado SL 4

I had to change my chain (and break pads) after about 1500 miles. I was very embarrassed as my bike tech knowledge is pretty rubbish. The guy at the bike social enterprise asked me how did I not notice that my brake pads had no actual pads on them left?!
 
I suspect that most folks with more typical "e-bikes" would be astonished to hear that a chain could last 7000 miles on a Vado SL.
I check my chain stretch about every 90 days +/- and have seen no obvious wear whatsoever to this point.
Riding mostly OFF? :)
 
I had to change my chain (and break pads) after about 1500 miles. I was very embarrassed as my bike tech knowledge is pretty rubbish. The guy at the bike social enterprise asked me how did I not notice that my brake pads had no actual pads on them left?!
You need to replace brake pads if you live in a hilly area. The chain stretch at 1500 miles is a normal thing.

I have about 7000 miles on the bike before I changed the chain, chain ring and cassette.
The 7000 miles has ruined the whole drivetrain :) I prefer replacing the chain after it's stretched at 0.75% max. I use higher assistance modes on my Vado SL (ECO = 60/60%)
 
Riding mostly OFF? :)
I would say that the motor is off > 50% of the time yes.
I would also say that I am a 'careful shifter' and am mindful to shift 'properly' and without adding unnecessary torque to the drivetrain.
Of course I am not perfect....but I do naturally attempt to shift as cleanly as possible at all times. Careful shifting, I believe, is of particular importance to the drivetrain on bikes that have electric motors :)
 
If I had to criticize my VadoSL in any way - it would be chain drop. I replace my chain about every 1500 miles and have changed the rear cassette twice and the front chain ring once in the bikes lifetime (about 12000m). And chain drop can still be an issue if I'm on bumpy terrain and unable to keep pedaling (like coming down steep drop and maneuvering). And drops are even more likely when doing lite mtb. I would say a newer chain drops less but never really had any luck with new rings having any positive affect. Anyway, if Specy could just put a chain guard on (like my LevoSL) it would be perfect. And - would be nice to have another mil or two between chain ring and frame so it doesn't take prying to get the chain out.
 
A guy last week got mad at me. More about that in a second. Any bike that hits the precise intensity and frequency of bumps will make a wave like a whip through the chain and it will drop. Okay, so this guy had a chain drop. The chain was stretched and the cassette worn, due to lugging the motor and not downshifting, also he lost his main motor mount and the motor distance from the rear axle was flopping. I fixed all those things that needed fixing. Then his chain dropped again on a Mount Tam decent while coasting. What he really needed in addition was a mountain grade derailleur with a strong clutch. He had a road grade derailleur on a mountain bike.
 
I wonder whether it is any difference between Shimano and SRAM drivetrains related to the phenomenon of the chain dropping.
SRAM has no derailleur clutch, Shimano has the Shadow+. The clutch keeps the chain tensioned at all the times when engaged.

I watched a good video where a competent person was showing the chain bouncing in a bumpy terrain, a traditional drivetrain then advanced chainrings then the same with the derailleur clutch. The clutch had certainly helped but the conclusion was it was the chainring that played the major role to keep the chain engaged.

@mfgrep and I use Garbaruk chainrings. These have hysterically :) high teeth to minimize any chance of the chain drop.
 
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