CCS Add-ons & Upgrades & Handlebar Options

FYI I have had no chain drops in 400 miles of riding. Perhaps it's been fixed?
I figured this was cheap insurance to hopefully avoid it. As far as being fixed goes, chain drop issues are common on 1X drivetrains due to the lack of a front derailleur. Its hardly unique to Juiced. The MTB industry has a huge amount of various chain guides, clutched derailleurs, etc. to address this. For less than $10 it gives me some peace of mind.
 
FYI I have had no chain drops in 400 miles of riding. Perhaps it's been fixed?

I've had no drops since I retired the stretched & badly worn chain. Conditions here are hard on chain. All fine since I went 50T
& a slightly shorter chain. I think the original was a good chain, but I beat the hell out of it in an abrasive environ. I should check
gears for wear. Anyone know if its freewheel or cassette?
 
Great idea on the reflective tape on the battery :). Going to get some and swathe the battery in silver tape to match the frame.

Replaced my lock mount with velcro, works very well. (The lock, the Tigr Mini, has flat sides; this wouldn't work with tubular u locks)

Both the velcro and the lock are titanium ;)

https://www.amazon.com/Velcro-90812-VELCRO-Brand-Titanium/dp/B001O6T2ZS

Safety wise, is it better to use red or silver tape on the sides?
 

Attachments

  • 1526140206330.png
    1526140206330.png
    189 KB · Views: 430
  • 1526140616226.png
    1526140616226.png
    425.9 KB · Views: 458
I've had no drops since I retired the stretched & badly worn chain. Conditions here are hard on chain. All fine since I went 50T
& a slightly shorter chain. I think the original was a good chain, but I beat the hell out of it in an abrasive environ. I should check
gears for wear. Anyone know if its freewheel or cassette?
Its a cassette.
 
Safety wise, is it better to use red or silver tape on the sides?
I'd say its sixes. Go with the one you like better for appearance. Honestly I didn't see the red when I ordered. If I had, I wouldv'e gone with that as I like the color contrast and am a big fan of red as its my favorite team's color. :)
 
Okay I made my first real alteration to my CCS. I swapped the handlebar stem from my road bike to the CCS. It's an inch longer and has the same angle rise. I removed the spacers from under the stem and flipped it over for a negative rise. I had to use one of the 5mm spacers from my road bike instead of the 10mm to reassemble. This should improve my seating position to be more forward and aerodynamic. If it ever stops raining, i will try it out.
 

Attachments

  • 20180512_113143.jpg
    20180512_113143.jpg
    4.3 MB · Views: 437
You will still need to make an adapter for this charger, it also doesn't allow to charge only to 80%. Luna cycles makes a charger that can be set to 80, 90, or 100% charging. Theirs costs about $60. You still need to make an adapter, but it is easier to adapt to the XT60 connector than the barrel type. In the end either will work though.

I searched that but coming up at $100. Is there another site to buy it at or do they have sales?

FYI I have had no chain drops in 400 miles of riding. Perhaps it's been fixed?

I had 3 this week so I'm guessing no. The roads are really bad in the greater Boston area though. I'm interested to hear if those chain retainers actually work.
 
I searched that but coming up at $100. Is there another site to buy it at or do they have sales?
Here's a link to the $60 charger for the 52V battery. https://lunacycle.com/52v-3amp-luna-mini-charger/
You can also add the 3 pin XLR connector you will need. https://lunacycle.com/xlr-connector-set-with-pigtails/
And the one for the 48V charger. https://lunacycle.com/48v-3amp-luna-mini-charger/
You will have to find a male 4 pin XLR elsewhere to make an adapter.

Also if you order, ask in the notes for an XT60 female connector to make your adapter. Then all you need to do is solder the male 3 pin XLR pigtails to the XT60 connector. Follow the + and - on the actual charger, not the instructions as they changed the design and not the instructions.
 
Here's a link to the $60 charger for the 52V battery. https://lunacycle.com/52v-3amp-luna-mini-charger/
You can also add the 3 pin XLR connector you will need. https://lunacycle.com/xlr-connector-set-with-pigtails/
And the one for the 48V charger. https://lunacycle.com/48v-3amp-luna-mini-charger/
You will have to find a male 4 pin XLR elsewhere to make an adapter.

Also if you order, ask in the notes for an XT60 female connector to make your adapter. Then all you need to do is solder the male 3 pin XLR pigtails to the XT60 connector. Follow the + and - on the actual charger, not the instructions as they changed the design and not the instructions.


Awesome, thanks for the detailed instructions! I have the 12.8 ah battery so 48 volts it is. Also gives me a reason to finally replace my piece-of-cr*p radioshack soldering iron that never works.

So do you take your battery off the bike every time to charge it or do the wide format batteries have an a second XLR port?
 
Wide format batteries only have the single XLR port, which is near the top on the left side of the battery. So far I have only been charging off the bike and it is my plan going forward as it keep the battery at room temp when not in use, and discourages bike theft with no battery on the bike at work.
 
Wide format batteries only have the single XLR port, which is near the top on the left side of the battery. So far I have only been charging off the bike and it is my plan going forward as it keep the battery at room temp when not in use, and discourages bike theft with no battery on the bike at work.


OK, my battery doesn't have that, it has a laptop type DC power jack. The part that transmits power to the bike seems to be an XLR connection so I had assumed wrongly that you were charging through that.

So maybe all I need is the Luna charger something like this? (I will need to check barrel size for Juiced bike plug)

https://lunacycle.com/xt60-male-to-barrel-male-plug-adapter/

Edit: I had another chain drop today so I ordered one of those plastic chain catchers that was recommend on these forums. However I'm guessing an aluminum one might work better over time. Does anyone know the outer diameter of the seat tube?

I'm eyeing this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KREX-Bike-...hash=item25ccb93044:m:mkHbYn5WWiVH3yubfUPVgrw
 
Last edited:
So a quick update on one of my upgrades. As I mentioned before, I put a triathalon style seat mounted dual water bottle holder on my bike. I has worked well with one problem I have ejected water bottles from the cages several times when hitting bumps at high speeds. I have broken one bottle and lost another already. Fortunately, I also have a solution. My sister had given me an adjustable style cage that I hadn't been using; https://www.amazon.com/ARUNDEL-LOON...words=adjustable+water+bottle+holder+for+bike
This allows me to clamp down on the water bottle. This has worked well so far, and I just ordered a second cage. Its pricey, but solves the problem.
 
I would try Velcro as well. After attaching my lock to the battery with Velcro, there is no jitter at all. As long as the velcro surface area to weight ratio is high enough, you should be good.
 
I considered velcro, but I wanted something I could manage with one hand when removing the bottle.

Also, I tried a new modification to the CCS today. I had already put on a handlebar stem that was about an inch longer and flipped it over to lower the bars and get more aero. Well after several days of riding like that, I began looking for a solution to get still more aero position. At some point it dawned on me to rotate the bars. I ended up rotating them forward about 110 degrees from vertical. This both moved my hands much further forward, and lowered the hand placement another inch at least. I rode home from work today like that. This has put my hands at roughly the same height as the seat. Its much closer to a road bike position. I will ride it like this for a few days to get a good feel for it. So far I am definitely happier. It really lengthened out the cockpit. Pic coming soon.
 

Attachments

  • 20180518_220819.jpg
    20180518_220819.jpg
    4.6 MB · Views: 523
I think it must take a 1000 miles just to get a CCS broken in. Mine just keeps getting better. With the 50T
chain ring it's become virtually effortless. Considering it's a purpose built commuter, it does remarkably
well on trails. I'm tempted to put on some 29er dirt tires.

.nq161004.gif
 
I think it must take a 1000 miles just to get a CCS broken in. Mine just keeps getting better. With the 50T
chain ring it's become virtually effortless. Considering it's a purpose built commuter, it does remarkably
well on trails. I'm tempted to put on some 29er dirt tires.

.View attachment 22054

Considering that it has a MTB style frame, I'm not sure there's anything inherently commuter about it besides the rack and the chainguard, pretty minor elements.
 
Considering that it has a MTB style frame, I'm not sure there's anything inherently commuter about it besides the rack and the chainguard, pretty minor elements.

It does appear to be the same frame as the rip current except for fat tires. It's a mite touchy on loose gravel with 45mm rubber, but with
wider tires it'd fine.
 
I considered velcro, but I wanted something I could manage with one hand when removing the bottle.

Also, I tried a new modification to the CCS today. I had already put on a handlebar stem that was about an inch longer and flipped it over to lower the bars and get more aero. Well after several days of riding like that, I began looking for a solution to get still more aero position. At some point it dawned on me to rotate the bars. I ended up rotating them forward about 110 degrees from vertical. This both moved my hands much further forward, and lowered the hand placement another inch at least. I rode home from work today like that. This has put my hands at roughly the same height as the seat. Its much closer to a road bike position. I will ride it like this for a few days to get a good feel for it. So far I am definitely happier.
It does appear to be the same frame as the rip current except for fat tires. It's a mite touchy on loose gravel with 45mm rubber, but with
wider tires it'd fine.
I am using 50mm Schwalbe G-Ones at the moment, John. And they are definitely better gravel tires than the stock Kendas were. But pretty soon I should have the 2.35"/60mm wide version and they are meant to be useful in beach sand, even.

We shall see! I bet I would need to drop the pressure way, way down for deep sand because the CCS rims are pretty narrow and will not let wide tires be their widest.

Also, am going to find out just how much chainstay clearance is afforded by the CCS frame with the new tires. Not much!

But, am sold on the wider tire concept. These interim, nominal 2.0" Schwalbes are a revelation of easier pedaling and amazingly improved traction.
 
Back