Brakes levers stopping motor? How to fix?

F

FloridaBiker777

New Member
Region
USA
My etrike is great except the brake levers on the handlebar sometime “stick” or don’t fully pop out. So the motor won’t run.

I know for sure this is the problem since pushing forward on the levers always solves the problem.

What is the suggested fix(es)?

Thanks!
 
fooferdoggie said:
best to replace the brake hosing and cables with decent quality stuff to fix that.
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I agree, and most brake systems have some sort of spring return. Check that also. If there is whitish powder on the cables inside the housings, they need to be replaced. On a build today I used $29.99 Pro shift cable from Bontrager with gun oil inside the housing. The good stuff is nice. It is a seven foot long cargo bike and I did not want any response lag.
 
Brake and shifter cables need regular lubrication. Put a few drops of oil on the cable itself and let gravity work it down inside the housing Pump the brakes to help it. You might have to situate the bike right to get gravity to work for you. Then turn the bike the other way up and do the same thing from the other end of the cable.

TT
 
Tars Tarkas said:
Brake and shifter cables need regular lubrication. Put a few drops of oil on the cable itself and let gravity work it down inside the housing Pump the brakes to help it. You might have to situate the bike right to get gravity to work for you. Then turn the bike the other way up and do the same thing from the other end of the cable.

TT
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Not so with high quality shifter cables. Cheap cable brakes maybe different story.
 
TrevorB said:
Not so with high quality shifter cables. Cheap cable brakes maybe different story.
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Even high quality cables can get fouled in harsh environments... Especially if not housed the entire length of the run.
And I hope you're not suggesting to use shifter cables for breaks.

Now back to the problem.. It's probably dirt/grit.
Disconnect the cable at the caliper and slide the housing off. Inspect the cable for kinks and housing for damage. Any signs and I would just replace them. If free of damage wipe the cable down with isopropyl alcohol. You can pour a little down the housing too and blow it out the other end into a rag with compressed air or even your mouth and fisted hand in a pinch. Give it a few minutes to dry and then wipe the cable sparingly with a very light oil or WD40 and reassemble. Don't over lubricate.
 
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Gionnirocket said:
Even high quality cables can get fouled in harsh environments... Especially if not housed the entire length of the run.
And I hope you're not suggesting to use shifter cables for breaks.

then wipe the cable sparingly with a very light oil or WD40 and reassemble. Don't over lubricate.
Click to expand...
Not regular WD40! There's a Specialty WD40 White Lithium spray that would be good.

TT
 
Tars Tarkas said:
Not regular WD40!
Click to expand...

I agree ^^^
Regular WD40 evaporates completely and leaves nothing behind.
It works as a penetrating oil for rusted nuts and bolts but that's about it.

20231119_092802.jpg
 
I agree with Fooferdoggie. I upgraded my shifter cable and housing with Jagwire requires no lubricant already prelube.
As for my 2 cents on brakes for heavy etrike. OP should get rid of cable and upgrade to hydraulic setup.
 
XT and XTRs have pre lubed coatings. Add extra lube and yoi undo all good work by factory. When they start playing up after 1000s kms its time for replacement either just inner or both.
 
Rome said:
As for my 2 cents on brakes for heavy etrike. OP should get rid of cable and upgrade to hydraulic setup.
Click to expand...
There aren't lot of options that have brake switch inbuilt. Magura if you want best but not cheap as rotors will also need replacing.
Aliexpress special but long term reliability could be issue with cheap hydraulics.

Cheap cables playup but don't tend to suddenly stop working without warning. Cheap hydraulics can fail outright without warning.
 
Tars Tarkas said:
Not regular WD40! There's a Specialty WD40 White Lithium spray that would be good.

TT
Click to expand...
Yes... Regular WD40 I find excellent for this as its very light and can actually aid in cleaning.
In real world I've only done this once with brakes on a bike that was rode hard and put away dirty... Then sat for a very long time. But this is/was standard maintenance with shifter cables. What nice if you have segmented housing is you can do it without taking the cable off the derailleur. Just put it in the smallest cog and fully flex the derailleur inward and you'll have enough slack to disengage the housing from their stops. They can then be slid back/forward to clean the cable.
I find this to be one of these instances where less is more.
 
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TrevorB said:
XT and XTRs have pre lubed coatings. Add extra lube and yoi undo all good work by factory. When they start playing up after 1000s kms its time for replacement either just inner or both.
Click to expand...
I agree... Don't fix what ain't broke.
But when they start playing I'd bet a cleaning and they'll work good as new. Why replace when a cleaning is easier, faster and less expensive.
 
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Rome said:
I replace if necessary.
No clean or lube cable.
I don’t know break point on cable actuated brakes .
Hydraulic brakes you only need to replace pads
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This coming from the guy who douches and dip waxes his chain.
Well I think maybe they need your famous bubble bath and some Mobil 1 Red Grease! 🙃
 
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