brake noise on disc brakes could just be the disc.

[Alaskan]

@Gordon71 Well the advice available is all over the place. This is the procedure that has always worked for me, especially with sintered metal pads.

How to bed in new disc brake pads | 4 easy steps for fuss-free braking

Unlock your braking potential

www.bikeradar.com

“Bedding-In” The Brake Pads And Rotors Is The Key​

When disc brake systems are brand new, they don’t actually work to their potential; some are abysmally weak feeling. The reason why is that the rotors and the brake pads haven’t been “married” to each other yet – a process called “bedding-in”. At Fit Werx, our technicians initiate the “bedding-in” process as part of our bike build. This being said, while we start the “bed-in” process when building your bike, hard use outside is necessary to bring your disc brakes up to their full potential.

If you have weak bicycle brakes on your disc equipped bike, and you know that the pads are not worn out, “bed-in” the system, even if it has been “bedded-in” previously. Your goal when “bedding-in” disc brakes is to get the pads and rotors hot enough so that they pick-up each other’s patterns. The more closely the striations on the pads and rotors correspond to each other, the more surface area they share and the better the braking performance. The heat generated from hard braking is also what helps break-up and dissipate the previously mentioned glazing and hardening that can form over time (particularly times of low use).

“How Do I “Bed-In” Bicycle Disc Brakes?”​

As mentioned above, your goal is to get heat into the system and get the glaze and hardening off the components. The best way to eliminate heat and to get the glaze off is to simply brake hard and often.

Note: We are not recommending that you go to the biggest hill you can find, get up to 50 mph and apply your glazed brakes. Instead, “bed-in” your brakes the safe way. Find a nice open area; get up to about 10 mph; apply one of the brakes as firmly as possible without locking the wheel. Just before coming to a full stop, release the brake and build back up to 10 mph again and do it over. Repeat 15-30 times. Do this one wheel at a time to maximize the friction and heat (one brake doing the work of two builds heat). With each repeat, the brake should slowly improve. Once complete, do the same procedure with the other brake.

“My Brakes Still Feel Weak After ‘Bed-In’. What’s Next?”​

If your brakes are not improving after 30 heavy heat cycles, something else is wrong and it is time to consider having an air bleed service of the system and/or new brake pads and rotors. Likewise, some loud squeals do not disappear regardless of use or intensity. This usually means the pad or rotor is contaminated and needs replacement to quiet them. While clean is usually good when it comes to bike components, keep in mind that many brake systems recommend that you use nothing more than water to clean them; detergents and solvents can actually make loud brakes even worse and previously quiet brakes loud.

Unless you see a clear issue with the rotor (dramatic heat scorch, significant bend, deep glazing…), you can start by replacing the brake pads before you replace your rotors. Keep in mind that there are often multiple brands and types of brake pads that might work with your brake system. Some pads have more initial “bite” while others might have a more progressive feel. Either way, if you have chronic squealing of your bicycle disc brakes, changing to a different brand of pad, or changing pad compound (switching from resin to sintered/metal pads, or vice versa), can be worth a try. Regardless, don’t forget to “bed-in” the new pads with your rotors properly before hitting the road or trail.

SEE COMMENTS

• About the Author

About Ian​

From first time riders to Olympians, Ian has helped thousands of athletes achieve their cycling and triathlon goals. Ian develops much of the Fit Werx fitting and analysis protocols and is responsible for technology training and development. He is regarded as one of the industry leaders in bicycle fitting, cycling biomechanics and bicycle geometry and design. He is dedicated to making sure the Fit Werx differences are delivered daily and provides Fit Werx with corporate direction and is responsible for uniting our staff and initiatives.

 

[Gordon71]

@Gordon71 Well the advice available is all over the place. This is the procedure that has always worked for me, especially with sintered metal pads.

How to bed in new disc brake pads | 4 easy steps for fuss-free braking

Unlock your braking potential

www.bikeradar.com

“Bedding-In” The Brake Pads And Rotors Is The Key​

When disc brake systems are brand new, they don’t actually work to their potential; some are abysmally weak feeling. The reason why is that the rotors and the brake pads haven’t been “married” to each other yet – a process called “bedding-in”. At Fit Werx, our technicians initiate the “bedding-in” process as part of our bike build. This being said, while we start the “bed-in” process when building your bike, hard use outside is necessary to bring your disc brakes up to their full potential.

If you have weak bicycle brakes on your disc equipped bike, and you know that the pads are not worn out, “bed-in” the system, even if it has been “bedded-in” previously. Your goal when “bedding-in” disc brakes is to get the pads and rotors hot enough so that they pick-up each other’s patterns. The more closely the striations on the pads and rotors correspond to each other, the more surface area they share and the better the braking performance. The heat generated from hard braking is also what helps break-up and dissipate the previously mentioned glazing and hardening that can form over time (particularly times of low use).

“How Do I “Bed-In” Bicycle Disc Brakes?”​

As mentioned above, your goal is to get heat into the system and get the glaze and hardening off the components. The best way to eliminate heat and to get the glaze off is to simply brake hard and often.

Note: We are not recommending that you go to the biggest hill you can find, get up to 50 mph and apply your glazed brakes. Instead, “bed-in” your brakes the safe way. Find a nice open area; get up to about 10 mph; apply one of the brakes as firmly as possible without locking the wheel. Just before coming to a full stop, release the brake and build back up to 10 mph again and do it over. Repeat 15-30 times. Do this one wheel at a time to maximize the friction and heat (one brake doing the work of two builds heat). With each repeat, the brake should slowly improve. Once complete, do the same procedure with the other brake.

“My Brakes Still Feel Weak After ‘Bed-In’. What’s Next?”​

If your brakes are not improving after 30 heavy heat cycles, something else is wrong and it is time to consider having an air bleed service of the system and/or new brake pads and rotors. Likewise, some loud squeals do not disappear regardless of use or intensity. This usually means the pad or rotor is contaminated and needs replacement to quiet them. While clean is usually good when it comes to bike components, keep in mind that many brake systems recommend that you use nothing more than water to clean them; detergents and solvents can actually make loud brakes even worse and previously quiet brakes loud.

Unless you see a clear issue with the rotor (dramatic heat scorch, significant bend, deep glazing…), you can start by replacing the brake pads before you replace your rotors. Keep in mind that there are often multiple brands and types of brake pads that might work with your brake system. Some pads have more initial “bite” while others might have a more progressive feel. Either way, if you have chronic squealing of your bicycle disc brakes, changing to a different brand of pad, or changing pad compound (switching from resin to sintered/metal pads, or vice versa), can be worth a try. Regardless, don’t forget to “bed-in” the new pads with your rotors properly before hitting the road or trail.

SEE COMMENTS

• About the Author

About Ian​

From first time riders to Olympians, Ian has helped thousands of athletes achieve their cycling and triathlon goals. Ian develops much of the Fit Werx fitting and analysis protocols and is responsible for technology training and development. He is regarded as one of the industry leaders in bicycle fitting, cycling biomechanics and bicycle geometry and design. He is dedicated to making sure the Fit Werx differences are delivered daily and provides Fit Werx with corporate direction and is responsible for uniting our staff and initiatives.

I get it. I did a search and found what I posted above which is almost the same as the first one I found. That one said ride to 10 MPH and then slowly squeeze the brakes to slow down to a walk. Repeat several times one brake at a time. Then do it again from 15 MPH. I guess there's more than one way to do it. Anyway my new brakes work fine with no noise so I guess I'm good.

 

[Alaskan]

I get it. I did a search and found what I posted above which is almost the same as the first one I found. That one said ride to 10 MPH and then slowly squeeze the brakes to slow down to a walk. Repeat several times one brake at a time. Then do it again from 15 MPH. I guess there's more than one way to do it. Anyway my new brakes work fine with no noise so I guess I'm good.

I saw that video. Good to know that works too. Perhaps the break in strategy is different for metal rather than resin pads. None of the alternatives I saw really specified that.

I boke in the sintered metal pads on my Allant+9.9S which worked fine, even eliminated that gurgling "waterfall" noise you sometimes get with metal pads. Interesting to know that both methods work even though they seem so directly contradictory. More than one way to skin a cat or break in brake pads on a bike.

 

[penserv]

I've got noise on the front rotor as well. I view the noise as a safety feature, sort of like the whistles you can put on the front of your car to warn deer and other critters of impending death. Rotor noise is just a warning to pedestrians walking down the road who are socially distancing by 20 ft when they pass someone on the sidewalk. If the noise bothers you, just crank up the volume on your earbuds.

 

[Alaskan]

I never wear ear buds on a bike and am of the opinion that anyone who does as engaging in unnecessarily risky behavior.

Anything that reduces a rider's situational awareness, impairs vision or hearing, increases the risk of serious injury.

I like music too and use the Terrano system that installs on any hemet and enables my wife and I to communicated up to a mile. It has stereo speakers and a mike boom on a flexible stalk that neither plug nor cover the ear but rather sit near the ear allowing ambient sound, like the tire noise from approaching cars to be heard.

 

[penserv]

I never wear ear buds on a bike and am of the opinion that anyone who does as engaging in unnecessarily risky behavior.

I disagree with that. Even without earbuds, in the wind, you often never hear cars coming up behind you. That's what the helmet mirror is for. I'd rather be happily enjoying music when I get obliterated by a little old lady. Out west of Calgary in Springbank, drivers have a love-hate relationship with bikers, so best to just ride on the shoulder (if there is one) and enjoy your last moments. I ride by myself, so no one to talk to (sound of little violins). I'm waiting for my helmet cam to arrive and when it does my next of kin will have photo evidence to take to court to become insanely rich. In the meantime, I'll just enjoy biking under power.

 

[fooferdoggie]

that's why I use a garmin radar. I listen to audiobooks and podcasts with one earbud.

 

[Sierratim]

I'm all for situational awareness, esp when riding a bike. No ear buds for me. Mirrors help, too!

I always announce myself when riding up behind any pedestrian on the trail. I'm always leary of those using ear buds. Several have been startled when I pass, despite using my bell and voice to announce my presence.