Bike Ratings on EBR

Shoud EBR's Numerical Rating System be Modified?


  • Total voters
    10
Mike,

An 80 mile range is 5 hours at the Euro max-speed, 15 mph. So you have to spread 400 WH over 5 hours, leaving you with 80 watts constant drain on the battery. You need about 150 watts to push the bike, on the flat, no wind, at 15 mph. So even with 75% efficiency, the motor delivers 60 watts and you have to pedal at 90 watts. For anyone in good shape, that is doable. Maybe not for 5 hours, but that's not relevant.

Range numbers are worthless. Too many variables. You might as well say the bike is termite-proof. It's just as meaningful.

term.jpe


The bike calculator says you need 500 watts to get up that 18% grade at 6 mph. A hub motor is probably going to bog down and be terribly inefficient (or blow a thermal limiter). The mid-drive keeps you going. If you pedal fairly hard, you'd move fast enough. All you can do is throw some watts at the hill, deliver the watts efficiently.
 
Mike,

An 80 mile range is 5 hours at the Euro max-speed, 15 mph. So you have to spread 400 WH over 5 hours, leaving you with 80 watts constant drain on the battery. You need about 150 watts to push the bike, on the flat, no wind, at 15 mph. So even with 75% efficiency, the motor delivers 60 watts and you have to pedal at 90 watts. For anyone in good shape, that is doable. Maybe not for 5 hours, but that's not relevant.

Range numbers are worthless. Too many variables. You might as well say the bike is termite-proof. It's just as meaningful.

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The bike calculator says you need 500 watts to get up that 18% grade at 6 mph. A hub motor is probably going to bog down and be terribly inefficient (or blow a thermal limiter). The mid-drive keeps you going. If you pedal fairly hard, you'd move fast enough. All you can do is throw some watts at the hill, deliver the watts efficiently.

George,
Yes, that is close to actual Strava info, 640W. I weigh between 165 and 185. Last time, I weighed 181. I easily lose 20 pounds when I run hard. I want to carry 50 pounds of food up the hill. My guess is somewhere between 750-1000W or 90-120 Nm, for total weight.

My goal is 9mph, which is wobble speed. A gyroscope(bike) is directing more energy up the hill, when stable. The pros push and pull hard on the handlebars to keep the bike stable when below wobble speed.

Thanks again, for pointing the Euro differences. Would Bosch and Yamaha both be using the same euro speeds? The Bosch battery distance charts are in german. I am under the impression 2015 Yamaha gets twice the battery distance. The best Bosch info is 175km under ideal and 80km under worst case conditions.

Inferring from the graphs, Bosch seems to be half Yamaha. Without explicit parameters, I just cannot draw accurate conclusions. The best info I have suggests 2015 Bosch is half Yamaha. My perception probably reflects the amount of variation, rather than electrical differences.

The Haibike brochure lists 25kph, 80RPM cadence and 20Nm foot torque for the Yamaha to get 130km from the battery at 100% assist. I will try to find the equivalent Haibike XDuro(bosch) data.

The lack of standard performance presentation really annoys me! Obtaining useful, basic info is difficult and unreliable.

The key take-away is the information or personal interpretation is biased and risky to some extent. I need to keep the bias/risk foremost in mind when trying to determine cost-benefit of different brands. In other words, the information is noisy. So, conclusions need to be carefully qualified. As, Daniel Kahneman says, the human mind is a machine for jumping to conclusions. Based on the noise level of common eBike info, confidence levels should be kept low.

EBikes are more like string, then keyed, music instruments. Stringed instruments are flexible and have a great deal of variation in sound. Keyed instruments,like trumpets, are easier to measure, because the keys are fixed. The human element is still more variable than the instruments. As Daniel Kahneman's Nobel Prize winning work demonstrates, the human mind does not perceive the world as a regression-to-the-mean. The human mind is responsible for unrealistic interpretations.

On a scale from one to five, I rate the risk/bias of E-Bike information a four. Despite the fact that bike properties are described by numbers, the amount of flexibility and variation is large enough that confident conclusions are unlikely.

I feel bike components are over-emphasized at the expense of accurate benefit interpretations. The bias towards branded components results in error prone interpretations. Relating a feature (I.e., a component) to a benefit is difficult and inaccurate. The consumer wants to distinguish between the benefits different bikes provide. The information is presented in a way that does not facilitate meaningful interpretation. The meaning is literally lost in the translation from features to benefits.

EBikes are unlike motorcycles. The human mind has a difficult time accepting the fact that human differences are as great as EBike differences. The human body has as large an influence on the final outcome as the machine. The distinction between man and machine is a blurred one.

In my personal case, I rely on experience. I run up an 18% road grade. I race bicyclists up the 10% grade and usually run faster than most bicyclists can pedal. I can reliably extrapolate that I need an eBike that borders on a motorcycle to comfortably ascend my 18% grade. If I tinker with a bike, I try to adapt a scooter controller and motor in a bicycle.

I train on the hills by carrying 10-35 pounds of food in a fanny pack. Toe power is the trick to steep hill running. Strong toes ensure powerful and fast legs. When heels strike the ground and foot is not perpendicular to ground on push, more than 50% speed is lost, closer to 80%.

I weigh the fanny pack on the store counter scales once or twice a week. The clerks and I play a guessing game. Everyone is amazed by how inaccurate our judgments can be. I use the same fanny and/or backpack each time. Until I jam the food into the pack and lift the pack, nobody is able to accurately estimate the weight. Until we measure the pack, we are uncertain how accurate our estimate is. We usually guess +/- 2.5 pounds, or 5-10%.

Like Bono sings, "the best of us are geniuses of compression. The worst of us are a long, drawn-out confession."

Thank you,
Mike

PS Funny thing. I just started watching Howard Goodalls Story of Music. He opens by saying no jargon or misleading labels!
 
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Mike,

This is a typical promo line for a sine wave converter:

Smooth control, more responsive, higher reliability, higher efficiency, higher torque, lower noise

It's another thing where theory has to meet practice. Some form of sine wave controller is showing up in all kinds of motor specs, including low price Chinese kits.

The performance charts for 'any' ebike normally show maybe 70% efficiency in the normal operating window.

I've seen some comps on the Haibike with the Yamaha and the Bosch, and there aren't huge differences. The Yamaha may be a lot cheaper. It's a nice system. With 'high' assist the bike goes 40 miles with a 400 wh battery. The Euro max speed is around 15 mph (for assist), which requires about 150 watts. With light pedaling, the Yamaha works out to be maybe 70-85% efficient. Good, but not that exemplary. It's hard to say what the battery is putting out in any 'assist' mode.

A doubling of efficiency would be tough, just because electric motors are routinely 65-85 % efficient. Internal combustion is miserable, in terms of efficiency:

http://physics.stackexchange.com/qu...ical-efficiency-of-internal-combustion-engine

This stuff is pretty solid, now. No dig against Yamaha, but I doubt it will do much for basic performance. It's the guys who do serious earth moving who are griping about Bosch, but you want to climb hills. This stuff just takes so long to get over here from Europe. It's wild that people were talking about the Bosch mid-drive (for US delivery) before Bafang barely had a mid-drive, and now the BBS02 is just eating up the US market, as the Bosch stuff reaches this market. That's a little nuts, you know? I wouldn't wait for another Euro product to get here, just hoping it has earth-shaking specs.
George,

You might find the sine wave efficiency graphs revealing, over 80% efficient. Efficiency correlates with RPM. In my case, I might need to concentrate on Class four vehicle designation. I like the 48V, 1.5 kW controller around 700 RPM.

http://www.sabvoton.com/product/48v-1-5kw-brushless-motor-controller.html#.VP7naoZHarW
 
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Hi Mike,

We're all sort of left with an ebike industry that works the way it works. Most of the time, it is too much trouble to try to design a bike with a lot of mixed parts. I like the idea of a plug and play set of parts, like the Bafang kits from various people. You get a bottle type battery, the motor, and the controller. I think the 8Fun/Bafang has the controller in the housing. Not so much you can do.

Connectors aren't much fun. If you have to splice stuff together, you create all those nasty places to have an intermittent circuit. You want solid, waterproof connectors and parts. It's tough to mount stuff. Most people pay a lot of money for the beauty of an integrated bike.

If you need 600 watts plus some human power to get up your hill, the 750w BBS02 is a pretty good choice. If you find a decent frame, you could experiment with it. These are just parts. Cut and paste wherever you want to go. You don't want to do too much research without stepping back into the real world, within the limits of your finances. Experience is a great teacher, even if you don't make the perfect bike.
 
Hi Mike,

We're all sort of left with an ebike industry that works the way it works. Most of the time, it is too much trouble to try to design a bike with a lot of mixed parts. I like the idea of a plug and play set of parts, like the Bafang kits from various people. You get a bottle type battery, the motor, and the controller. I think the 8Fun/Bafang has the controller in the housing. Not so much you can do.

Connectors aren't much fun. If you have to splice stuff together, you create all those nasty places to have an intermittent circuit. You want solid, waterproof connectors and parts. It's tough to mount stuff. Most people pay a lot of money for the beauty of an integrated bike.

If you need 600 watts plus some human power to get up your hill, the 750w BBS02 is a pretty good choice. If you find a decent frame, you could experiment with it. These are just parts. Cut and paste wherever you want to go. You don't want to do too much research without stepping back into the real world, within the limits of your finances. Experience is a great teacher, even if you don't make the perfect bike.
What is your opinion of the Felt Compulsion 10?
Would you recommend a different full suspension bike?

I take a fire road for half of my trip to the store. The fire road gets severly rutted after rain.
 
Being in a pretty rural area, I don't get access to many bikes. That's a solid bike. It's a little annoying that you can use the cheap Bafang and get 750 watts, but the European stuff comes over here with minor upgrades from their limits. The first bike is going to be an experiment.

This is about as rough a road as I ride. I'm not riding trails, so I just put up with the stuff, get to the pavement soon enough. Our roads get potholes with extreme washboard sections. You learn to avoid as much as you can, stand up when you can. I have the front fork suspension.

rutted road.JPG
 
Being in a pretty rural area, I don't get access to many bikes. That's a solid bike. It's a little annoying that you can use the cheap Bafang and get 750 watts, but the European stuff comes over here with minor upgrades from their limits. The first bike is going to be an experiment.

This is about as rough a road as I ride. I'm not riding trails, so I just put up with the stuff, get to the pavement soon enough. Our roads get potholes with extreme washboard sections. You learn to avoid as much as you can, stand up when you can. I have the front fork suspension.

View attachment 2432
Thank you. That is similar to my fire road. I also follow a PG&E right of way for about 10 blocks.

The right of way means going over curbs when the grass meets the road at each of the ten blocks.
 
yikes . you guys really do need suspension on your bikes :)
The main reason is car is king. The bike lane is used for car parking. The road has two lanes in each direction, with a 35mph speed limit. How can bicycles manage going uphill, on a 10% grade, in the right-hand bike-share lane. I will get run off the road!

I usually wait for ten cars to zoom by, before anyone is kind enough to let me cross the street in the striped crosswalk.

I often see a 150cc Aprilla scarabeo scooter fly up the hill at 35mph. I wish I could put a scooter motor on a bike to keep up with cars. I would get a good laugh!
 
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Being in a pretty rural area, I don't get access to many bikes. That's a solid bike. It's a little annoying that you can use the cheap Bafang and get 750 watts, but the European stuff comes over here with minor upgrades from their limits. The first bike is going to be an experiment.

This is about as rough a road as I ride. I'm not riding trails, so I just put up with the stuff, get to the pavement soon enough. Our roads get potholes with extreme washboard sections. You learn to avoid as much as you can, stand up when you can. I have the front fork suspension.

View attachment 2432
OH Yeah! ditto here on the potholes and patches in our county roads! When you see the sign that says 'Travis County Maintenance Ends' watch out.:cool:
 
OH Yeah! ditto here on the potholes and patches in our county roads! When you see the sign that says 'Travis County Maintenance Ends' watch out.:cool:
I assume you mean that you prefer rear shocks for your road conditions? I see going over my 10 street curbs as jarring. Rear shocks would provide a good value, relative to the additional high cost?
 
You get used to some of it, and my stretch is pretty short. I think with a heavy pack you'd want everything you could get. Not sure how you will carry the weight.
 
You get used to some of it, and my stretch is pretty short. I think with a heavy pack you'd want everything you could get. Not sure how you will carry the weight.
George,
My understanding is that I cannot use a front rack with front fork shocks. I will have to put the entire weight on rear racks. My understanding is my option is limited to a seat post mounted rear rack with rear shocks.

That means the rear rack cannot support a heavy load, I.e., 40 pounds. I am planning to put the food in a back pack. I will have to support part of the weight by attaching the backpack straps to my shoulders or waist, when seated on the bike. Is this infeasible?

Currently I distribute the weight on my hips with a fanny pack. I put light, bulky items in a backpack. Usually 2o-25 pounds in the fanny pack. 10-15 pounds in the backpack.

One clerk cannot believe it. He says it feels like two bowling balls in the fanny pack.
 
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Bike judgment is inverted when presented with lists of components or features, e.g., motor, battery, weight, etc.... Seventy (70%) percent of the human brain is devoted to visual processing. Images and video, not long lists of technical features, facilitate judging bikes.

A more conceptual and useful judgment process is to asses the benefits, e.g., ease provided by motor or shocks. I see six primary benefits: ease, economy, elegance, endurance, enjoyment and excitement. The features should relate to the associated benefits. The benefits, not the features, should be rated.

The best way to communicate benefits is by displaying video or images of the features. Visualizing benefits is difficult from a table of features and text/numerical descriptions. When numbers must be presented, display the numbers in a graphical image.

Features are costs to the manufacturer. To the consumer, judging from a components list is like putting the cart before the horse. Numerous studies show how the working memory region of the brain is quickly overloaded when presented with more than six pieces of information. Long lists of information result in impressions, rather than valid conclusions.

i would like to see a button to start a private conversation about a particular review. Suppose the site had a list of all members who owned a particular bike. Any reader could initiate a private conversation with an actual owner.

I think people ultimately want personal feedback about how their situation relates to a bike.
 
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I assume you mean that you prefer rear shocks for your road conditions? I see going over my 10 street curbs as jarring. Rear shocks would provide a good value, relative to the additional high cost?
Actually, no; on the bike I ride now there is no suspension, but a little wider tires. Bike has better handling, but I wouldn't mind suspension forks on the front. Energy is lost when you have any kind of suspension other than a suspension seatpost.
 
Actually, no; on the bike I ride now there is no suspension, but a little wider tires. Bike has better handling, but I wouldn't mind suspension forks on the front. Energy is lost when you have any kind of suspension other than a suspension seatpost.
Ann,
Does electronic lockout work as advertised? RockShox Monarch "e.i." Electronic Intelligence lockout is standard on Haibike Sduro (Yamaha) . I have only read glowing reviews and videos.
 
Actually, no; on the bike I ride now there is no suspension, but a little wider tires. Bike has better handling, but I wouldn't mind suspension forks on the front. Energy is lost when you have any kind of suspension other than a suspension seatpost.

Since the Bosch Performance Line motor decided to spit it's outer bearing out after just 630 miles of use, I've been riding around on my KTM Ultra 1964 hardtail, and loving every second of it. Whilst it has front suspension, I wouldn't be overly worried if it didn't. Riding around on it for the last week or so almost has me wonder whether the additional overall weight of an e-mtb is worth it. And even more so given the astronomical running costs of the Performance line motor and wear rate of bike components.

Not electric, but I am having so much fun out on this. Dirty from last nights 21 mile late night off road session.

Capture.JPG
 
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