I am an older rider that just rides on "rails to trails" bike paths, some paved, some pressed limestone. I do not want to go fast but rather ride to enjoy the outdoors and explore. What class of bike should I be looking for? Do I need suspension, mid drive, gears, etc. Since there is a limited selection in my area, I pretty much have to buy sight unseen. Appreciate opinions to narrow the search. Thus far, I have narrowed my choice to Aventon and EBC but dont really know what's best and other brands to include. Also, about $2K is my budget.
Best fit
- Thread starter dwgrenda
- Start date
indianajo
Well-Known Member
Uh, yes on the speeds. 7 or 8 speeds on the rear are useful. 9, 10, 11 speeds on the rear sell bikes, but cut chain life by half or 2/3. I have 8 speeds, get 5000 miles per chain.
No on the mid-drive, if you ever intend to pedal yourself unpowered. Except Yamaha Shimano & Brose mid-drives don't drag unpowered. One advantage of mid drives, they cope well with routes that rise >1500 feet in 2 hours. As the beach to sierra top rides in Southern California & Oregon, where most bike sales are and most reviewers live. Geared hub drives will burn up with that much rise. I ride a geared hub drive up 77 hills in 27 miles with 80 lb groceries, and it performs great here because the overall rise is only 200'. BTW pedaling regularly unpowered got me through 137 days of covid19 fever with no hospital or oxygen. I use electricity when the wind is >12 mph in my face. No more 6 hour 27 mile rides.
No on the suspension, as long as you are not going over 15 mph often. I ride 2.1" diameter tires with a hard frame @ 45 psi, which is comfy enough. 26" or bigger tires take a pothole or high pavement separator much more comfortably than 20" tires, but some people have to put a bicycle in a closet, or a sub-compact car, or carry it up stairs. 26"x 2" tire will fit pavement or gravel, either. Bigger wheels are even more comfortable for taller people than me. Fat tire bikes (>3") are a fashion statement, unless you ride on sandy beaches or in powder snow. Fat tires are expensive, anyway.
Your height & length of legs & arms matters a lot. Some bikes are "one size fits all", and speaking as a short person, those manufacturers are lying like rugs. All the bikes in bike shops around here are for long legged tall people except the one single speed pink one with a Holly Hobbie logo on the seat. Bikes my size are sold at discount stores, with trashy components I used to put up with. But now I'm age 70, not any longer. My bike has 24 speeds with sram shifters, and tektro cable pull disk brakes. I love it. No cable adjustments in 3 years, because cables are made of real steel. Bike cost $1300 + accessories. Calbe pull brakes require pad adjustment every 1000 miles or so. Takes me 2 minutes in the front, 7 in the back where I have to take the bag off.
How far you want to go matters. That dictates battery size.
Class of bike is determined by your local government & park authority. Some parks only allow class 1, some don't allow electric bikes at all. Check with your local government. My local government thinks bike paths are for yuppy liberals, so they don't provide any. Citizens that vote here in the majority drive diesel pickups, not bicycles. I ride on road, any speed up to the car speed limit. Class 3 is for serious commuters who want to go fast. Some entire states ban throttles, like MA. That would put me in an electric wheel chair, trying to ride it 30 mles through deep grassy, rocky, & muddy ditches. Glad I decided not to move to MA. the US Army pounded the cartlege out of my knees running in combat boots, and while riding generally makes them feel better, some days I really need the throttle to get home again. You may find cadence PAS fine or even more natural, torque sensing assist like on Giant bikes. Definitely travel to a big city and test ride a cheap bike before you settle on cadance PAS. Even if you don't buy there.
Check any brands you consider on the known problems thread of the brand forums below. Some brands have imitation steel spokes that require frequent adjustment, some have wheels that are too small to fit tires. Buying off the internet can be risky if you have electrical problems, but I had to because the only brand closer than 165 miles is very expensive and in another state, anyway. I had to throw two batteries away, got a refund back for one.
Figure out how you're going to carry your locking device before you buy. You may want to shop, eat, visit a restroom during a ride. Most rural places do not have racks for U-locks. Some bikes do not have enough frame to hang a book carrier or anything to put a bag or basket on. I use a 6' SS sling for light poles, which rolls up in a 14" dameter coil. You see my big bags in the picture left. Chains are heavier, but can collapse tighter to fit in a behind the seat bag.
Happy shopping, and maybe later, riding.
No on the mid-drive, if you ever intend to pedal yourself unpowered. Except Yamaha Shimano & Brose mid-drives don't drag unpowered. One advantage of mid drives, they cope well with routes that rise >1500 feet in 2 hours. As the beach to sierra top rides in Southern California & Oregon, where most bike sales are and most reviewers live. Geared hub drives will burn up with that much rise. I ride a geared hub drive up 77 hills in 27 miles with 80 lb groceries, and it performs great here because the overall rise is only 200'. BTW pedaling regularly unpowered got me through 137 days of covid19 fever with no hospital or oxygen. I use electricity when the wind is >12 mph in my face. No more 6 hour 27 mile rides.
No on the suspension, as long as you are not going over 15 mph often. I ride 2.1" diameter tires with a hard frame @ 45 psi, which is comfy enough. 26" or bigger tires take a pothole or high pavement separator much more comfortably than 20" tires, but some people have to put a bicycle in a closet, or a sub-compact car, or carry it up stairs. 26"x 2" tire will fit pavement or gravel, either. Bigger wheels are even more comfortable for taller people than me. Fat tire bikes (>3") are a fashion statement, unless you ride on sandy beaches or in powder snow. Fat tires are expensive, anyway.
Your height & length of legs & arms matters a lot. Some bikes are "one size fits all", and speaking as a short person, those manufacturers are lying like rugs. All the bikes in bike shops around here are for long legged tall people except the one single speed pink one with a Holly Hobbie logo on the seat. Bikes my size are sold at discount stores, with trashy components I used to put up with. But now I'm age 70, not any longer. My bike has 24 speeds with sram shifters, and tektro cable pull disk brakes. I love it. No cable adjustments in 3 years, because cables are made of real steel. Bike cost $1300 + accessories. Calbe pull brakes require pad adjustment every 1000 miles or so. Takes me 2 minutes in the front, 7 in the back where I have to take the bag off.
How far you want to go matters. That dictates battery size.
Class of bike is determined by your local government & park authority. Some parks only allow class 1, some don't allow electric bikes at all. Check with your local government. My local government thinks bike paths are for yuppy liberals, so they don't provide any. Citizens that vote here in the majority drive diesel pickups, not bicycles. I ride on road, any speed up to the car speed limit. Class 3 is for serious commuters who want to go fast. Some entire states ban throttles, like MA. That would put me in an electric wheel chair, trying to ride it 30 mles through deep grassy, rocky, & muddy ditches. Glad I decided not to move to MA. the US Army pounded the cartlege out of my knees running in combat boots, and while riding generally makes them feel better, some days I really need the throttle to get home again. You may find cadence PAS fine or even more natural, torque sensing assist like on Giant bikes. Definitely travel to a big city and test ride a cheap bike before you settle on cadance PAS. Even if you don't buy there.
Check any brands you consider on the known problems thread of the brand forums below. Some brands have imitation steel spokes that require frequent adjustment, some have wheels that are too small to fit tires. Buying off the internet can be risky if you have electrical problems, but I had to because the only brand closer than 165 miles is very expensive and in another state, anyway. I had to throw two batteries away, got a refund back for one.
Figure out how you're going to carry your locking device before you buy. You may want to shop, eat, visit a restroom during a ride. Most rural places do not have racks for U-locks. Some bikes do not have enough frame to hang a book carrier or anything to put a bag or basket on. I use a 6' SS sling for light poles, which rolls up in a 14" dameter coil. You see my big bags in the picture left. Chains are heavier, but can collapse tighter to fit in a behind the seat bag.
Happy shopping, and maybe later, riding.
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AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Older riders seen frequently here!
I would even venture to say that they may be in the majority? (I'm 70) I think there's little doubt you'll enjoy having at least 7 speed gears.
For good acceleration from a stop, the ability to cross a road quickly and climb reasonable hills, AND staying within your budget, a bike with a geared rear hub is likely your best plan. These will easily run up to 20mph or better, and work really well at 10-12mph speeds (speeds seen frequently on trails with other bike traffic). Avoid bikes with a direct drive rear hub.
For good range, a 14ah/650wh+ battery would do nicely. That will give me a range far greater than my butt would ever last.
Step through style bikes are popular if vertically challenged - OR - if the thought of swinging a leg up over a bike seat leaves you concerned.
I prefer my bikes with fenders, a rack, and front suspension - but if I were real concerned about weight (NOT!) they would be the first to go.
Nothing wrong with Aventon
You might want to check out Espin
You should have no trouble finding a decent bike in your price range. I would be looking for bikes, like the Aventon and Espin, that are assembled using mostly over the counter, non proprietary parts. That will assure a long service life, with a minimum amount of concern regarding parts that are no longer available... -Al
Thanks Al. I looked at the Esplin. Seems like nice bike but I forgot one other issue. My wife has a 27" inseam and would like the saddle to be nearby when standing. The minimum saddle of an Esplin is 32" so its out. I appreciate your comment about a geared hum and butt pain being the limiting factor for battery life. Thanks.
indianajo
Well-Known Member
Aventon pace don't have enough frame to support a rear Wald basket. Their level model comes with a simulated book rack that has a custom spine curving down to the frame. Don't take that rack to the library or the grocery. No width in the frame for the front clamp, the rack will wiggle back & forth and rub the tire or bend the fender.
Espin frames are similar.
I've also been contemptuous of Ride1up.
You might get away with a 8 lb chain back there.
Aventon known problems forum has a dozen complaints of PAS level 1 being too fast, 12 mph. Aventon allows no custom programming, they say. I found the 11 mph on my PAS level 1 to be so dangerous I disconnected the PAS pickup.
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AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
indianajoe-
All due respect, but I'm thinking there are not too many of us that load our bikes down like you do.....
PAS 1 issue noted.... but again, in the grand scheme of things, not many bike manf's offer adjustable PAS levels. That's NOT saying I think them a bad plan. Pretty much the opposite....
All due respect, but I'm thinking there are not too many of us that load our bikes down like you do.....
PAS 1 issue noted.... but again, in the grand scheme of things, not many bike manf's offer adjustable PAS levels. That's NOT saying I think them a bad plan. Pretty much the opposite....
indianajo
Well-Known Member
People that live in cities over 4000000 population can lock their bikes up with U-locks. In my city of only 2000000 there are not bike racks or tethers, except downtown next to the 8 story building the bankers & insurance offices are in. So I have to carry a 6' sling to fit a power pole to stop anywhere. A 6' chain is even heavier. Maybe the OP will never stop for a cup of coffee off his bike.
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harryS
Well-Known Member
Your wife might look at 20' folders, not the fat tire models although they might work, but the skinny tire bikes. Axle is only 10" off the ground, while the fat tire models are 12". THe advantages are maneuverabilty and lighter weight. The tradeoffs are a rougher ride with small wheels although front shocks mitigate that, and a slower top speed.
My wife, who turned 70 this month, put on 2400 miles last year on this type of bike. So did I. We also have larger bikes, and I will ride mine when I go solo, but the little bikes work for bike paths in northern Illinois, where the glacier scraped all the hills flat.
My wife, who turned 70 this month, put on 2400 miles last year on this type of bike. So did I. We also have larger bikes, and I will ride mine when I go solo, but the little bikes work for bike paths in northern Illinois, where the glacier scraped all the hills flat.
