Batteries

Gorden

New Member
Region
USA
One of the reasons that I wanted to join the forum is to get some advice about batteries in general ,and my 48 volt battery in particular . It is a 48 volt battery from Calibike . It is a large and heavy unit , 14 lbs. I cannot remember other specifics about it , and they have discontinued making them . I assume he was making them , but they could have been supplied to him. It is triangular in shape and is held in place with Velcro straps . I have had it for a bit over 3 years , maybe more . My memory is not what it used to be . And I do not keep records . I used it most every day , so I have been guessing that it has had somewhere around 900 or more charging cycles . I believe I have gotten my monies worth . It would seem to do fine fresh from charging , but began to leave me stranded on the return portions of my trips , which were between 20 and 30 miles . It would just go dead . Take it home , charge it up , seemed to take a charge , but then leave me stranded again. I do not have the knowledge or instrumentation to diagnose the problem . And I am under the impression that it can be dangerous to open up lithium batteries . I assumed that I had worn it out . It could be repairable , just don't know . I recently charged it over night and it it took a charge of 45 volts . It has been sitting idle for over a year . I replaced it with a 52 volt unit from Calibike . It is smaller and lighter , but seems to be at least comparable to the earlier battery . More professional packaging , built in mounting on the water bottle mount on most bike frames . It does not seem to have the capacity of the earlier battery . It certainly has fewer cells . What is correct terminology for a batteries capacity ? Is it measured in volts , watts , amperage ? The most notable deficiency is going up a grade .On level ground it is barely noticeable when a battery is half discharged . But on a grade it become very obvious . The hills near my house can start from about 30% slope to around a 45% near the top . A gradual but profound increase. Towards the end of a trip it will barely make to the top . I know that gravity explains the phenomena , but what is is happening in the battery . I figured that all I need is higher volts. But I am slowly coming around to believing that the controller has a large part in all of this . I am the first to admit my ignorance in these matters . Is there a simple explanation , Or should I just buy a book and educate myself . Can anyone recommend a book on these matters ? Electricity for idiot perhaps . Enclosed are pictures of both batteries . Thanks in advance for any suggestions .
 

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One of the reasons that I wanted to join the forum is to get some advice about batteries in general ,and my 48 volt battery in particular . It is a 48 volt battery from Calibike . It is a large and heavy unit , 14 lbs. I cannot remember other specifics about it , and they have discontinued making them . I assume he was making them , but they could have been supplied to him. It is triangular in shape and is held in place with Velcro straps . I have had it for a bit over 3 years , maybe more . My memory is not what it used to be . And I do not keep records . I used it most every day , so I have been guessing that it has had somewhere around 900 or more charging cycles . I believe I have gotten my monies worth . It would seem to do fine fresh from charging , but began to leave me stranded on the return portions of my trips , which were between 20 and 30 miles . It would just go dead . Take it home , charge it up , seemed to take a charge , but then leave me stranded again. I do not have the knowledge or instrumentation to diagnose the problem . And I am under the impression that it can be dangerous to open up lithium batteries . I assumed that I had worn it out . It could be repairable , just don't know . I recently charged it over night and it it took a charge of 45 volts . It has been sitting idle for over a year . I replaced it with a 52 volt unit from Calibike . It is smaller and lighter , but seems to be at least comparable to the earlier battery . More professional packaging , built in mounting on the water bottle mount on most bike frames . It does not seem to have the capacity of the earlier battery . It certainly has fewer cells . What is correct terminology for a batteries capacity ? Is it measured in volts , watts , amperage ? The most notable deficiency is going up a grade .On level ground it is barely noticeable when a battery is half discharged . But on a grade it become very obvious . The hills near my house can start from about 30% slope to around a 45% near the top . A gradual but profound increase. Towards the end of a trip it will barely make to the top . I know that gravity explains the phenomena , but what is is happening in the battery . I figured that all I need is higher volts. But I am slowly coming around to believing that the controller has a large part in all of this . I am the first to admit my ignorance in these matters . Is there a simple explanation , Or should I just buy a book and educate myself . Can anyone recommend a book on these matters ? Electricity for idiot perhaps . Enclosed are pictures of both batteries . Thanks in advance for any suggestions .
To talk about a battery's capacity, the most common way is to multiply the Volts times the Amp/Hours. This gives Watt Hours. For example 48V X 11Ah = 528. There are a bunch of variables and factors. One is the quality of the cells and battery management chip or BMS. Fast charging leads to shorter life span. Not ever running into the ground. Never leaving it a 100%. You can probably get all you need here at EBR, there are thousands of threads discussing these issues.
Welcome.
 
Your first ebike used a 36V battery, so let's start with that, A 36 volt battery is made up of ten cell groups in series, Each group can consist of 1 or more cells in parallel.

Lithium cells have a max charge of 4.20 volt, and battery makers agree to keep the minimum charge at 3.0V. Their nominal charge at 50% is about 3.7V. That means a 36 volt battery runs between 30V and 42V.
unbalance_1.jpg

If we look at 48V and 52V batteries, they use 13 series groups and 14 series groups,

A 48V battery runs 54.6V at full charge, 48.1V at nominal and 39V at minimum. If you are measuring only 45V on that 48V battery, something is wrong with it or your measurement,
 
To talk about a battery's capacity, the most common way is to multiply the Volts times the Amp/Hours. This gives Watt Hours. For example 48V X 11Ah = 528. There are a bunch of variables and factors. One is the quality of the cells and battery management chip or BMS. Fast charging leads to shorter life span. Not ever running into the ground. Never leaving it a 100%. You can probably get all you need here at EBR, there are thousands of threads discussing these issues.
Welcome.
 
Your first ebike used a 36V battery, so let's start with that, A 36 volt battery is made up of ten cell groups in series, Each group can consist of 1 or more cells in parallel.

Lithium cells have a max charge of 4.20 volt, and battery makers agree to keep the minimum charge at 3.0V. Their nominal charge at 50% is about 3.7V. That means a 36 volt battery runs between 30V and 42V.
View attachment 192660
If we look at 48V and 52V batteries, they use 13 series groups and 14 series groups,

A 48V battery runs 54.6V at full charge, 48.1V at nominal and 39V at minimum. If you are measuring only 45V on that 48V battery, something is wrong with it or your measurement,
 
Thank you Harry S . I trust the volt meter .And the battery has exhibited that there is a problem . I have moved on , so I guess I should just take it to a recycling center . Thank you for the information .
 
Tire pressure analogy: Tires will have the recommended low and high pressures on the sidewall, needless to say that it is fine print and black-on-black! For a battery Zero is not like a totally flat tire, it is much more like the minimum recommended pressure on a tire. Full is like the maximum recommended pressure on a tire. Amps work a lot like pressure flows in plumbing. For a seven-foot long bike I am working on now, I am using extra-thick wires for that long wire run to prevent heating. Your old battery is unable to pump up to its recommended high.
 
Battery voltage is not capacity and should be matched to the voltage of your motor and controller. Too high a voltage will damage the hardware.
Amp-hours (Ah) is your capacity so the bigger the number the more capacity. 15Ah is greater than 10Ah.This is accomplished by putting cells in parallel.
Down side of going too big is size and weight. You also don't want to go too small as the battery won't get you very far and will have greater voltage drops on hills.
You'll see batteries described as such 48V - 17.5Ah. Quality name brand cells are worth the extra cost for both safety and longevity.

Good on you too recycle the worn out battery.
Good luck
 
Last edited:
It
One of the reasons that I wanted to join the forum is to get some advice about batteries in general ,and my 48 volt battery in particular . It is a 48 volt battery from Calibike . It is a large and heavy unit , 14 lbs. I cannot remember other specifics about it , and they have discontinued making them . I assume he was making them , but they could have been supplied to him. It is triangular in shape and is held in place with Velcro straps . I have had it for a bit over 3 years , maybe more . My memory is not what it used to be . And I do not keep records . I used it most every day , so I have been guessing that it has had somewhere around 900 or more charging cycles . I believe I have gotten my monies worth . It would seem to do fine fresh from charging , but began to leave me stranded on the return portions of my trips , which were between 20 and 30 miles . It would just go dead . Take it home , charge it up , seemed to take a charge , but then leave me stranded again. I do not have the knowledge or instrumentation to diagnose the problem . And I am under the impression that it can be dangerous to open up lithium batteries . I assumed that I had worn it out . It could be repairable , just don't know . I recently charged it over night and it it took a charge of 45 volts . It has been sitting idle for over a year . I replaced it with a 52 volt unit from Calibike . It is smaller and lighter , but seems to be at least comparable to the earlier battery . More professional packaging , built in mounting on the water bottle mount on most bike frames . It does not seem to have the capacity of the earlier battery . It certainly has fewer cells . What is correct terminology for a batteries capacity ? Is it measured in volts , watts , amperage ? The most notable deficiency is going up a grade .On level ground it is barely noticeable when a battery is half discharged . But on a grade it become very obvious . The hills near my house can start from about 30% slope to around a 45% near the top . A gradual but profound increase. Towards the end of a trip it will barely make to the top . I know that gravity explains the phenomena , but what is is happening in the battery . I figured that all I need is higher volts. But I am slowly coming around to believing that the controller has a large part in all of this . I am the first to admit my ignorance in these matters . Is there a simple explanation , Or should I just buy a book and educate myself . Can anyone recommend a book on these matters ? Electricity for idiot perhaps . Enclosed are pictures of both batteries . Thanks in advance for any suggestions .
It was out of balance.That is why it only charges to 45 volt. Some groups are 4.2 volt but not all.Then when the lowest groups get to 3 volt or whatever the BMS low volt cut off is it shutdown. You can balance it but it does require knowledge &opening the package. It's not difficult but you have to be extremely careful
 
It

It was out of balance.That is why it only charges to 45 volt. Some groups are 4.2 volt but not all.Then when the lowest groups get to 3 volt or whatever the BMS low volt cut off is it shutdown. You can balance it but it does require knowledge &opening the package. It's not difficult but you have to be extremely careful
Thanks for your advice . I thought that it might be something like that . But I did not know if anyone would bother doing the repair .It seems like a shame to just recycle it if it could be repaired. It is beyond my level of skill , and I would be happy to pass it along to some who has the ability to do the repair for free . But it is heavy , and considered hazardous to ship . But I am open to different possibilities . Thanks again
 
Thanks for your advice . I thought that it might be something like that . But I did not know if anyone would bother doing the repair .It seems like a shame to just recycle it if it could be repaired. It is beyond my level of skill , and I would be happy to pass it along to some who has the ability to do the repair for free . But it is heavy , and considered hazardous to ship . But I am open to different possibilities . Thanks again
I have listed items I don't need but others might in the "for sale " I was giving it away but not willing to ship it.The pack is not hard to balance but you have to open it up to get access to the cell groups
 
If the pack is out of ballance a few years old it's most likely the internal resistance of some cells has drifted. I wouldn't recommend trying to ballance it at this stage as the repair will more than likely be temporary and make the pack more dangerous.
And a 45v full charge on a 48v pack is way off. Best to recycle it and move on.
 
If the pack is out of ballance a few years old it's most likely the internal resistance of some cells has drifted. I wouldn't recommend trying to ballance it at this stage as the repair will more than likely be temporary and make the pack more dangerous.
And a 45v full charge on a 48v pack is way off. Best to recycle it and move on.
Thanks ,I will recycle .So nice to have access to people who know more than I do , and are willing to help. Glad I joined
 
It could be repairable
No not worth the risk for anyone new to battery repair and I'd say you got your monies worth. It's probably a Unit Pack Power battery. A bottom of the line build. Anyone suggesting balancing without demonstrating their skill set should not be trusted given the risks.
It was out of balance.
that's not always the case. It's a pack with lower quality generic Chinese cells from a company known for failures. Someone published data and warnings about that pack.

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Consumer Product Safety Commission issues warning about ...

The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) has issued a warning and recall for Unit Pack Power (UPP) e-bike batteries due to fire and burn hazards. These batteries, often sold as "U004 BATTERY" or "UPPBATTERY" and rebranded as "Unit Pack Power" or "UPP", have been linked to multiple reports of fires, including one where a battery exploded causing fire damage. The CPSC urges consumers to stop using these batteries and dispose of them properly.

Specifically, the warning applies to the following:
  • Model U004 and U004-1: These are the specific model numbers being recalled.

  • "Unit Pack Power" or "UPP" Brand: These batteries were sold under these brand names online and at certain retailers.

  • Black, triangular batteries: They are typically sold as conversion kits to turn pedal bikes into e-bikes.
What you should do if you own an UPP battery:
  • Immediately stop using the battery. .

  • Dispose of the battery properly. Follow the guidelines of your local recycling center for damaged/defective/recalled lithium batteries. Do not throw them in the trash or general recycling bins.

  • Contact the seller or the manufacturer: to inquire about a refund or replacement.

  • Report any incidents: involving these batteries to the CPSC at www.SaferProducts.gov.
Why the warning?
  • Lack of safety certifications:
    The UPP batteries have not been certified by an accredited laboratory to the applicable UL safety standards.

  • Reports of fires and explosions:
    Multiple reports have linked these batteries to fires, burns, and property damage.

  • Manufacturer's refusal to cooperate:
    The CPSC notes that the UPP manufacturer has refused to conduct an acceptable recall.
In summary, the CPSC strongly advises against using these UPP e-bike batteries due to the risk of fire and burn hazards, and urges immediate action to stop using and properly dispose of these batteries.
 
Battery voltage is not capacity and should be matched to the voltage of your motor and controller. Too high a voltage will damage the hardware.
Amp-hours (Ah) is your capacity so the bigger the number the more capacity. 15Ah is greater than 10Ah.This is accomplished by putting cells in parallel.
Down side of going too big is size and weight. You also don't want to go too small as the battery won't get you very far and will have greater voltage drops on hills.
You'll see batteries described as such 48V - 17.5Ah. Quality name brand cells are worth the extra cost for both safety and longevity.

Good on you too recycle the worn out battery.
Good luck
drop it at Lowes,they have a battery dropoff bin.
 
Volumes have been written here on lithium batteries and all good advice above ^
If you want to learn more, by all means use the search box.

When it comes to lithium batteries, in general, you can pay now or pay again later. You'll get better performance and service life from a quality built battery. Sure, you pay more up front, but it's usually more economical in the long run.

As already stated, you definitely got your monies worth from the original battery. No question, it's time to recycle.
 
No not worth the risk for anyone new to battery repair and I'd say you got your monies worth. It's probably a Unit Pack Power battery. A bottom of the line build. Anyone suggesting balancing without demonstrating their skill set should not be trusted given the risks.

that's not always the case. It's a pack with lower quality generic Chinese cells from a company known for failures. Someone published data and warnings about that pack.

AI Overview
Learn more

View attachment 192674
The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) has issued a warning and recall for Unit Pack Power (UPP) e-bike batteries due to fire and burn hazards. These batteries, often sold as "U004 BATTERY" or "UPPBATTERY" and rebranded as "Unit Pack Power" or "UPP", have been linked to multiple reports of fires, including one where a battery exploded causing fire damage. The CPSC urges consumers to stop using these batteries and dispose of them properly.

Specifically, the warning applies to the following:
  • Model U004 and U004-1: These are the specific model numbers being recalled.

  • "Unit Pack Power" or "UPP" Brand: These batteries were sold under these brand names online and at certain retailers.

  • Black, triangular batteries: They are typically sold as conversion kits to turn pedal bikes into e-bikes.
What you should do if you own an UPP battery:
  • Immediately stop using the battery. .

  • Dispose of the battery properly. Follow the guidelines of your local recycling center for damaged/defective/recalled lithium batteries. Do not throw them in the trash or general recycling bins.

  • Contact the seller or the manufacturer: to inquire about a refund or replacement.

  • Report any incidents: involving these batteries to the CPSC at www.SaferProducts.gov.
Why the warning?
  • Lack of safety certifications:
    The UPP batteries have not been certified by an accredited laboratory to the applicable UL safety standards.

  • Reports of fires and explosions:
    Multiple reports have linked these batteries to fires, burns, and property damage.

  • Manufacturer's refusal to cooperate:
    The CPSC notes that the UPP manufacturer has refused to conduct an acceptable recall.
In summary, the CPSC strongly advises against using these UPP e-bike batteries due to the risk of fire and burn hazards, and urges immediate action to stop using and properly dispose of these batteries.
Lucky you are here to save us
 
I was looking at the local suburban news. A garbage hauler saw his load on fire and the protocol is to find a clear spot, dump it on the road, and the fire department puts it out. Saves an expensive truck. They mention it had happened at another town a week earlier, and still another fire a month ago, All three were probably caused by lithium batteries thrown into the trash. Jeez, that's getting too common.

Next time, I'm at Lowes I will ask them about recycling. There is an initiative for recycling at the local ebike shops but they won't take unbranded ebike packs. I sure wouldn't either.
 
Sounds like you definitely got your money’s worth out of that 48V Calibike battery — 900+ cycles is great! Based on your description (losing power midway), it’s very likely the battery is just worn out. Lithium batteries naturally degrade over time, especially with daily use.
To your question:
  • Voltage (V) = electrical pressure,
  • Amp-hours (Ah) = how much current it can store (capacity),
  • Watt-hours (Wh) = total energy (volts × amp-hours).
When comparing batteries, watt-hours or amp-hours tell you more about how far you can ride.
Climbing hills demands a lot of current, and as batteries age or discharge, they struggle more under heavy loads — which is why you feel it especially on steep grades. The controller also limits how much current can flow, so it definitely plays a role too.
If you’re looking for an easy read, "Electric Bikes: The Essential Guide" by Micah Toll is a fantastic beginner-friendly book.
 
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