Base Turbo battery rattle

[kermit_xc]

I know I saw somebody mention there being a bolt under the bottom bracket that pushes the battery in ... I see the moving block in the battery compartment - but I can't find the actual adjustment bolt.

Can somebody point me in the right direction as the battery rattles out of the box and I am trying to save myself a shop visit

 

[Marko]

There is a small hatch in the bottom bracket that needs to be opened to get to the adjustment screw.

 

[kermit_xc]

awesome - thanks, got the plate off - tightened the biggest bolt. And rattle is still present - it's actually extremely annoying.

Anybody else notice similar issues ?

 

[kermit_xc]

ok - here is a write up that describes just that: http://secondnaturecycling.com/2014/08/27/specialized-turbo-s-troubleshooting-and-diagnosis-pt-1/

"With the battery pressure plate, I have found it to be different on each bike and definitely has a “correct” pressure for the Turbo to function right. On the bottom of the bike behind the bottom bracket is an access plate that is secured by small 2mm bolts. Remove these and set aside in a magnetic parts tray so they don’t end up lost on the ground. Once the anchor plate has been removed, look inside and you’ll see wires, a couple hex bolts, and the shell of the bottom bracket. Locate the 5mm hex bolt right in the center anchored into a flat plate. This is an adjustment bolt for moving the battery up and down within the battery dock."

 

[StormTrooper2]

I have a bit of a rattle on big bumps. I found the same DIY guide you posted. I plan to tighten mine. I also have creaking from the bottom bracket. However, bouncing on my Post Moderne suspension seat post will make the creaking stop...but this could be due to pushing off the cranks to bounce...and soon the creak returns intermittently. This morning it creaked all the way to work in low to mid 40s temperatures. On the way home in the low 80s, no creak. I'm going to go down a list of most probable causes/fixes one by one and hope to identify it that way.

 

[kermit_xc]

I have a bit of a rattle on big bumps. I found the same DIY guide you posted. I plan to tighten mine. I also have creaking from the bottom bracket. However, bouncing on my Post Moderne suspension seat post will make the creaking stop...but this could be due to pushing off the cranks to bounce...and soon the creak returns intermittently. This morning it creaked all the way to work in low to mid 40s temperatures. On the way home in the low 80s, no creak. I'm going to go down a list of most probable causes/fixes one by one and hope to identify it that way.

same here ... bottom bracket creaks were unbearable once low 40s hit around. Taking it apart and regressing solved the problem

 

[Marko]

My BB also makes a crackling sound when under load like in uphills. Really annoying.

 

[Richard Spensley]

My new base Turbo also creaks from the bottom bracket / pedal crank. It started after about a week and it happens all the time. Warm weather here too. The shop have said that they will take it apart and lube/grease it fully as they said that the bikes are not always correctly lubed on construction. Thankfully they are doing this for me for nothing as the bike has only done 300kms.

 

[StormTrooper2]

Kermit...has a bit more tightening solved your battery rattle? Tightening incrementally is the way to proceed as there needs to be some play up near the internal female electrical connector so it can "find" its way to mate with the male connector on the top of the battery. I am going to tighten mine a half turn on the 5 mm hex adjusting bolt sometime this weekend. I'll report findings. My rattle only occurs when riding over curb cuts or bigger bumps at speed.

Is there a DIY guide you referred to for servicing the BB, including proper torque specs? Would it be a bad idea to use Loctite Blue to prevent thread creak? I've only worked on square taper old school BBs. I do have a wrench that fits the BBs shell, but I'd rather use a socket for better control.

 

[kermit_xc]

Kermit...has a bit more tightening solved your battery rattle? Tightening incrementally is the way to proceed as there needs to be some play up near the internal female electrical connector so it can "find" its way to mate with the male connector on the top of the battery. I am going to tighten mine a half turn on the 5 mm hex adjusting bolt sometime this weekend. I'll report findings. My rattle only occurs when riding over curb cuts or bigger bumps at speed.

Is there a DIY guide you referred to for servicing the BB, including proper torque specs? Would it be a bad idea to use Loctite Blue to prevent thread creak? I've only worked on square taper old school BBs. I do have a wrench that fits the BBs shell, but I'd rather use a socket for better control.

No rattle since I tightened the compression plate - quite few turns. You know you're done when you can barely remove the battery.

As to bottom bracket maintenance: ... if you have done it before - I'd say drop it off at the shop - $25 at most in labour cost.

You'll need:
- bottom bracket tool: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C12BMW?psc=1
- 4mm + 5mm allen wrench
- torque wrench
- grease: http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PPL...F8&qid=1457803368&sr=8-3&keywords=phil+grease
- degreaser

and you most definitely will NOT need loctite

 

[StormTrooper2]

I have the same Park BB tool you linked to. There's no way to know the torque using it. I assume your list included torque wrench for the hex bolts on the crank arms. Do you know the torque specs? I've got a few different torque wrenches, one specifically for lower torque values on small bolts. I'm thinking the crank arm bolts don't take much.

 

[kermit_xc]

From manual
Bottom Bracket: 40-50Nm
Chainring Bolts: 12Nm
Crank Bolts: 38-41Nm

And if you have a beam type torque wrench - just place the driver in the bottom bracket opening and you'll be good in the ball-park.

or just buy this: http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Not...57820389&sr=1-13&keywords=bottom+bracket+tool

 

[StormTrooper2]

Kermit -
Thanks...Didn't expect to find service specs in the thin owners manual (rather in a service manual). I've glossed right over them several times. I may be taking this on Sunday.

 

[Douglas Ruby]

From manual
Bottom Bracket: 40-50Nm
Chainring Bolts: 12Nm
Crank Bolts: 38-41Nml

Or as I do, "tighten until tight"....Kind of along the lines of "Shaken, not stirred".

Actually I use T-wrench allen tools and tighten the crank bolts and chainring bolts until tight using the T as a handle (less torque) rather than the long part of the wrench (more torque). I've removed the cranks a number of times when messing with gearing on the bike, but I have not taken the bearings and bottom bracket out.

 

[StormTrooper2]

Just finished "tightening" the battery position adjuster. I paid close attention to the plastic platform surrounding the battery latch, and up/down position of the battery. Tightening the adjuster actually compresses a spring that presses the plastic platform upward. Doing so lowers the platform into the bottom bracket area, and also eliminates all upward compression from the platform. Pressing on the platform reveals it is bottomed out when the 5 mm hex adjuster is tightened completely (righty tighty). The battery also sits much lower, with noticeable gap at the top of the battery and frame.

So I reversed my thinking. Loosening the hex adjuster will cause the spring to push the battery higher. The battery now fits more snugly in the frame and I feel more resistance from the plastic platform as the bottom of the battery (with Teflon tape) slides in and presses the platform down against the spring.

My conclusion is that loosening the hex adjuster is the way to snugging the battery in the frame. A bit counterintuitive.

It helps to have a stand to make these adjustments to the hex - but it's a bit of a strenuous lift and hold challenge while mounting it on the stand, even with battery removed.

Jon

 

[kermit_xc]

It helps to have a stand to make these adjustments to the hex - but it's a bit of a strenuous lift and hold challenge while mounting it on the stand, even with battery removed.

Jon

I remove the wheel and the battery when mounting in the stand

 

[Douglas Ruby]

I was rewiring the tailights to accomodate keeping both the saddle light and rack lights on. Thus while I was in the bottom bracket area, I adjusted the battery tension screw by turning to the left (which lifts the battery support plate). No more battery rattles on bumps!