Managed to change out the grease today between other projects that a nice day presents.....Taking out the motor was'nt too bad but the small phillips head screws that hold the non drive side cover plate on took some time to get off because I couldn't find the right screwdriver....There is alot you can do on taking one apart with an impact driver btw as well as re-assembly.
Case split fine without any damage to the gasket when it got to the bench. There was very little grease in there. Just some dabs of white lithium. I certainly don't subscribe to the method that chap in the video does but there is also a minimum amount too. I cleaned out what was there and I'll bet there wasn't a half a teaspoon.
I had a little episode while swapping out my grease gun of the red lithium I was using on my TSDZ2 and inserting the Corn Head cartridge. The gun started leaking red fluid so luckily I had a rag there for that but when I went to undo the Corn Head it was more soupy than goopy and I wasn't well prepared for that and some got on the concrete floor, like enough that I ended up using it to lube the motor.......waste not want not!
Put in probably 3 teaspoons of grease or a little more concentrating a bit on each interface. Pretty easy to see why there is gear noise because there is alot of steel in there whirring around for sure.
Re-assembly was easy til I got to the plastic cover and little phillips heads. I had turned the bike upside down and if doing it again I would wait to put that part on when the bike was right side up so that it doesn't want to fall off. That part cost me more time than any other but would be way faster next time, especially because I finally found the right driver.
So for the moment we all have been waiting for how does it sound? It is quieter for sure, not silent but never will be. I am calling it a win and especially because I am happier overall having a bit more grease than stock in there for the long run.
The one tool I really think that most won't have is the cup wrench for the drive side spider lock ring. It is lefty tighty/right loosey for one thing and the flat wrench with no offset just isn't the right tool for the job cause the chainring needs to be held somehow also. When I sought the cup kind this is the one I got:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YQRQM1M?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details Especially easy with an impact driver and no need for any more pressure on the chainring than by hand.