Aventon Level Error Code

Tom@WashDC

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Loudoun County, VA.
So I have 340 miles on my new Aventon Level. Starting to cruise the local development paved bike trails at a good clip, 15-25 mph. I was cruising at 15 mph on a paved trail and intentionally shot up a grassy bank pitched at 45 degrees, about 40 feet in distance to the top. PAS-3 and pedaling. Just before I reach the top of the hill I lose all power assist and get an error code. 2 seconds later, at the top of the hill my power assist comes back and everything is normal. Error code gone. What Error Code you ask? Don’t know, I was busy navigating trees and shifting gears.

the exact same thing happened to me as described in an earlier review I posted at my 10 day update on my Aventon Level. Same scenario, on dry pavement, pedaling 15 mph on PAS-2, I climbed a grassy hill and lost power and got an error code.

I also took the bike through the woods on a rocky, rooty, woods trail , which I would not do again, but everything worked perfectly, and I used the throttle a lot in the woods.

stay tuned.
 
I am going to try and recreate the conditions again and pay attention to which code is flashing.
 
I am going to try and recreate the conditions again and pay attention to which code is flashing.


I tried repeatedly to duplicate the condition today by hitting that hill multiple times at different speeds, different PAS Levels, but everything worked fine.
 
I had the same loss of power today as described in my two earlier posts. The error code was Code 21 -"Current Error, Current Limit Exceeded, or Damaged Cable." In my previous examples I was exiting a paved bike path and hitting a grassy incline at speed under PAS and I lost power for a second or two and the error code cleared within 1-2 seconds. This time I was on a paved trail under PAS-3 and pedaling when I hit a drainage cut in the paved trail that was about 9" wide, 4 " deep. When I hit the cut my rear wheel thumped really really hard. I lost power assist and continued to pedal for about 5 seconds while the error code continued to flash, and the power did not come back on. I stopped pedaling for two seconds, then started to pedal again. The error code disappeared and the power came back as I started pedaling. All systems back to normal. Could be a loose connection that only shows up under a severe bump. The main condition that seems to precede the loss of power is a major jolt/thump to the rear wheel. I'll send a note to Aventon and check my connections. Other than that, all systems running smoothly. I love my Aventon Level.
 
At the end of the first 2 months with my Level, I've put in over 600 miles and am totally addicted to it! But yesterday, I was riding up a very steep paved road--the Palm Springs Tramway road with grades that exceed 15%--and was cruising along trying to minimize PAS to get something of a workout. I did hit PAS 3 for a short stretch but was mainly downshifting to keep moving. Very suddenly while in PAS 2, the assist shutdown completely. Despite my efforts to continue, the road was just too steep for my 69-yr old legs. When I stopped and turned around to descend, I noticed the odometer now read a flashing "E 30". I thought maybe the motor had overheated, and headed down the hill hoping I hadn't damaged anything. After about a mile of descent (where I reached 36 mph!), I stopped at the bottom and noticed the display now said "E 26". I pulled up the online owners manual to see if there was a clue to what was going on. After about 5 minutes of reading and not finding anything specific to my situation, I noticed the control panel had returned to normal and the PAS was working again. I was able to continue my ride for another 1.5 hours, including some moderate hill climbs, with no further issues. This sounds similar to the situation described by others here and I assume it's some kind of safety lock-out feature to prevent overheating or damaging the motor? Has anyone heard anything from Aventon to confirm this?
 
As the manual says, you should reach out directly to Aventon Support. I find them to be very responsive. The few times my bike shut down with an error code, I found that it self corrected if I stopped pedaling for 2-3 seconds. The display did reset each time.
 
There is nothing wrong with your bikes. There are things a banjo can do that a jaw harp cannot and things a jaw harp can do that a banjo cannot. You have hub-drive bikes. Hub-drive bikes cannot climb hills but are inexpensive. If you wanted to climb you would have purchased mid-drive bikes. This is what a mid-drive looks like and what a hub-drive looks like.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF7241.JPG
    DSCF7241.JPG
    554 KB · Views: 606
  • Himiway01.JPG
    Himiway01.JPG
    268.9 KB · Views: 433
There is nothing wrong with your bikes. There are things a banjo can do that a jaw harp cannot and things a jaw harp can do that a banjo cannot. You have hub-drive bikes. Hub-drive bikes cannot climb hills but are inexpensive. If you wanted to climb you would have purchased mid-drive bikes. This is what a mid-drive looks like and what a hub-drive looks like.
Thanks for the info. I didn't realize hub and mid drive bikes would be that much different when it came to climbing hills. I guess my research was a bit lacking on that subject! Reality is that the vast majority of my riding is not on steep hills. I guess if I ever felt compelled to do more serious hill climbing, it would be a great reason to get another bike!
 
There is nothing wrong with your bikes. There are things a banjo can do that a jaw harp cannot and things a jaw harp can do that a banjo cannot. You have hub-drive bikes. Hub-drive bikes cannot climb hills but are inexpensive. If you wanted to climb you would have purchased mid-drive bikes. This is what a mid-drive looks like and what a hub-drive looks like.
That's a bit of an exaggeration. Mid-drives are better suited to hill climbing but many hub drive bikes are also quite capable of climbing hills. Hub drives are just more dependent on the power of the engine because they're driving the wheel directly, while mid-drives are driving the cranks and thus benefit from the lower gears available through the bike's transmission.
 
Back