Are All Chains Alike?

[MrLibraryMan]

I think I'm going to need a chain soon for my Trek Allant+ 7S (with 1,164 miles) since it measures .50%. Yes, I know that Trek recommends the exact chain that comes with this bike (their brand or someone else's), but are there others that I should seriously consider to take its place?
Thanks!

 

[RunForTheHills]

No, chains are usually classed by the number of speeds on the rear cassette: 8, 10, 11 speed. Your bike should have a 9 speed Shimano derailleur and cassette. KMC makes good chains, or you could get a Shimano chain. Any 9 speed chain that is Shimano compatible will work for you. You also have to get a long enough chain for your bike. You can count the links on your existing chain. Or size the new chain by putting the bike in the lowest gear (biggest rear cog), wrapping the new chain through the derailleur and around the chainring and rear cog, and adding one extra link.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Chains are pretty universal if they come for the proper number of cassette gears and in proper length. Yes, the common belief is Shimano chains are the best for Shimano drive-train, SRAM should go with SRAM, and KMC are excellent for any system. I think it does not really matter.

Some chains are advertised as appropriate for e-bikes. Typically, it is the matter of chain length as some e-bikes require much longer chains than traditional bikes. Then there comes the matter of the metal finish, hardening, etc. Unless you live by the ocean, all these "rust-free" expensive chains are totally unnecessary. E-bikes (especially mid-motors) "eat" their chains fast, and the most expensive chain would not last much longer than the cheapest chain for given number of speeds and of proper length.

I learned to go with inexpensive chains (as long as they fit my e-bikes) and didn't notice any significant difference.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I think I'm going to need a chain soon for my Trek Allant+ 7S (with 1,164 miles) since it measures .50%. Yes, I know that Trek recommends the exact chain that comes with this bike (their brand or someone else's), but are there others that I should seriously consider to take its place?
Thanks!

I've had good luck with KMC chains and I ride a 750w Bafang BBS02B which also has a throttle (though limited use). My current chain has over 2500mi and hasn't reached 75% stretch and it's a base KMC Z51 / 7sp.
Keep in mind the more rear gears, the thinner the chain and the more likely you'll require a better quality one.

 

[Dallant]

I’ve got over 1700 miles and my original Allant+7 chain measurement is great. Suggest you SPIN more and PUSH less. Clean/lube your chain more often. Going cheap with your chain is a mistake as it’s the key to your propulsion system.

 

[Dallant]

FYI…just to compare Rail 5 w/<100 miles and Allant+7 with well over 1700 miles with lots of significant uphill riding.

 

[m@Robertson]

The video above shows why DIY builders as a community - where 3kw+ mid-motors are common - stick with KMC. But the KMCs also come in an ebike-specific version. The difference between their uprated stretchproof chain vs. the 'e' chain is anecdotal. According to KMC the pins on the 'e' chains are different (and visually they are) and they can take a higher amount of force. You occasionally/rarely hear about an X11 or similar one of their uprated/stretchproof chains snapping. But I've never heard of one of the e's snapping. Buy smart and the e's don't cost that much more than a regular KMC. Either way you are usually talking about a $35 chain (11s is pricey, period).

I'm currently primarily riding two bikes out of my stable and both are 11 speed with 1750w peak motors. One is right at 2000 miles and the other will cross 1000 next week. I usually expect 3000 miles out of a chain but surprisingly, neither of them are showing signs of wear. The 2000 mile bike is a longtail so its got a 2-piece chain sectioned together that is something like 215 links long.

So, with those many miles involved, I don't mind spending a small amount more on something I've never seen break, vs. something I have. Break it out over the life of the chain and its... a few cents a month?

The Ecoprotec coating on the KMC chains jacks the price up big time. My actual home is on the coast where everything rusts. As near as I can tell the nickel version of the KMC chains is just as good at rust resistance as the coated chains that cost quite a bit more.

 

[PedalUma]

The video above shows why DIY builders as a community - where 3kw+ mid-motors are common - stick with KMC. But the KMCs also come in an ebike-specific version. The difference between their uprated stretchproof chain vs. the 'e' chain is anecdotal. According to KMC the pins on the 'e' chains are different (and visually they are) and they can take a higher amount of force. You occasionally/rarely hear about an X11 or similar one of their uprated/stretchproof chains snapping. But I've never heard of one of the e's snapping. Buy smart and the e's don't cost that much more than a regular KMC. Either way you are usually talking about a $35 chain (11s is pricey, period).

I'm currently primarily riding two bikes out of my stable and both are 11 speed with 1750w peak motors. One is right at 2000 miles and the other will cross 1000 next week. I usually expect 3000 miles out of a chain but surprisingly, neither of them are showing signs of wear. The 2000 mile bike is a longtail so its got a 2-piece chain sectioned together that is something like 215 links long.

So, with those many miles involved, I don't mind spending a small amount more on something I've never seen break, vs. something I have. Break it out over the life of the chain and its... a few cents a month?

The Ecoprotec coating on the KMC chains jacks the price up big time. My actual home is on the coast where everything rusts. As near as I can tell the nickel version of the KMC chains is just as good at rust resistance as the coated chains that cost quite a bit more.

I mostly use the nickel plated KMC chains with the X corrugation on the side plates and change out chains sooner than I would 'need' to. At .5 they are gone. That saves the cassettes. For single speed chains on IGHs I sometimes use hefty half-link chains. As mentioned keeping a chain clean is a significant factor in drivetrain health. More expensive chains are typically for race day. They are lighter weight.