Anyone Else Eliminate non throttle bikes? low top end?

keep in mind difference in location, I live in a rural coastal town of 6k people and go a week or more without even seeing a police officer maybe more, three stoplights in the whole town. I ride on the roads not bike paths aren't any here I know of, one ride on my regular bike takes me 18 miles along the river and farms, seldom see a car, worst hazard I have run into is a farm dog or two giving chase for a short bit. I know in city's like Chicago where I grew up on Lake St. they have a law, license, tag, tax, fee, fine, ordinance, for everything under the sun, I grew up in that environment , but in the west and rural places it's not the same. I know for people in the city it's hard to imagine but when I go to visit my son who lives in Ca. it is a 850 mile trip, we make it in 12 hours and until I exit I5 I never stop but to fuel my truck twice. I went on a group ride from Astoria Or. to Seaside and return and cars were rare as we use the back roads. I am not in the least concerned with being stopped or harassed about any law concerning a bicycle for sure.
We have many gas powered bicycles running around here on the roads, no license or plate is needed and they go way over 20 trust me. The bikes I am looking at are class 2 with throttle and mid drive, and the auto CVT rear hub, to me the perfect scenario for around here.
If I was to get a pedal only bike I looked at Farraday beautiful looking bike but low power, small motor, pedal only, no throttle, slow, and over 3k, doesn't make sense to me, might as well continue on my regular Trek, on which I can exceed 20 mph with out to much sweat, 27 speed. Went down a long 3mile grade on the coast and hit over 50 last time, admit I shut it down pretty quick and dropped to 35 or so I am not crazy, but with these mountain grades you can coast sometimes for miles and miles with no motor at all, one place almost 8 miles and rarely touch the pedals for power. Going south on the same section though is a B*^&%$!!! worth it though for the ride home. We do a 22 mile ride and the other is 60 to Coos Bay Or. but that is a long day and tough for me at least. Last time I called my wife and ate my pride for a ride home, bike in the back of the truck,,,LOL, but I was spent and didn't feel well enough to make it home. She clocked almost 70 miles for the ride, no problem though cause she thinks riding a bike that far is nuts anyway.. Now on a electric may be a different thing all together.
 
What I ride now does everything I need it to do. But I know at some point, I will wand to “upgrade”. I’ve thought of mid-drives, but because so few offer throttles I quickly pass them over. I hope this changes in a few years when I may be actually looking.

My bike now is class 3, but class 2 would be fine for me. I would feel different of course if I commuted on one.
 
The bikes I am looking at are class 2 with throttle and mid drive, and the auto CVT rear hub, to me the perfect scenario for around here.

Class 2 also means throttle up to 20mph. I am pretty sure the ones your are looking at are capable of more than that. I didn't look too much into it, but the review pages said class 2 and 4 for the ones I looked at that you mentioned
 
Ah, you mentioned the Delta and I think one other one a little while back, and both of those can be class 4.
 
It ships as a class 3 and 20 mph top on throttle but can be unlocked for 30mph so you have the option. If you notice Court never demonstrates the bikes capable of over 20 on the Aurora review he turns down the top to 20 from 25??? On the Delta X review he is more interested in the gravel bike they have as a prototype, and doesn't really seem that interested in the X. Bike report has a better review of the bike. I think he is just a slow rider. It would be nice as part of the reviews to know how the bike handles the top speed it is rated for and more lengthly ride review vs standstill statistics. His reviews are good but lacking in on road time, imo. Also on MTB reviews very little actual trail time, just going over grass isn't such a great test for full suspension, need dirt, rocks and some high speed turns, trail stuff in the real world.
 
Count me among those who use the throttle to get the bike moving through those awkward first few feet while getting your balance. This is not about getting your weight and a 20lb bike moving anymore. These bikes are going to weigh something over 60lbs for the most part.

A class 2 is not allowed go over 20mph. That doesn't mean it can't be governed to that point. Many will go considerably faster than that if the governor is disabled.
 
Thankfully there are very nice mid drive conversions that do offer throttles. So clearly, a mid drive CAN be built with a throttle. the OEM's who market their mid drives as throttle only, are just choosing not to offer them. Its not a technical obstacle.


Mike, can you suggest some good options for such a conversion? I have mid-drive Class 1, but would be interested in adding a throttle! Thanks!
 
Well it looks like I am not the only one on the bus at least. I have made a chart of all the models I review to make a decision based on the ability of the drive train, throttle, warranty, size etc.
At 120 NM and 750 W Mid Drive 48V battery and throttle access at any speed with a 380 NuVinci trans it looks like Evelo has a great deal going for it. All the other bikes I chart are 30 to 50% lower rating on NM torque and after watching the review where Court flies up a hill with no PA whatsoever I think it must be a powerhouse bike. Only goes up to 25 mph but that's acceptable. Amazing the difference in these bikes brand to brand, and I have really appreciated Court's reviews as they have really educated me on the subject. I am still riding my std. Trek bike for now but have whittled it down to where I am ready to make a purchase. The Delta X seems a real urban challenger and the Aurora a good bet as well. I like the hydraulic brakes as well and a 4 yr. warranty with pro rated battery replacement. I am still looking daily but so far can't find another that offers all this at my price limit which is 4500.
Thanks for all the input, I know myself and I know I wouldn't be happy with a less performing bike, and I don't want to get into the trading and selling thing hunting for one. Would rather get a top performer to start with and stick with it....

Be careful buying a bike on specs alone. They can be deceiving and something that seems like a good idea on paper (the NuVinci hub) can have drawbacks in real world use (heavy, not efficient). Go ahead and make the charts if that makes you happy, but ride lots of bikes, including the ones that aren't favored by the spreadsheet, before making a purchasing decision.
 
We'll rannyv thanks for the reply, when purchasing these ebikes you pretty much need to buy on spec and review as you can't physically see the darn things, not like a regular bike where you can find them anywhere. As far as the NuVinci being efficient I feel from reviews and articles the power from the bike I am considering the Evelo Delta X has 750W 1k total output with 110 nm torque compensates for this, the elimination of multiple sprockets for me and lack of maintenance needs makes up for a reliable ride. Plus a 4 year warranty which I see from no one else regardless of cost.
I was actually looking at a RadCity which looks very similar but when you look at the specs, it no longer stands up. Either would need to be ordered on line. I figure a bike at 40% of the cost has got to be cutting corners somewhere. A lot of repair issues as well from what I read and my local BS will not work on a RB, specifically, any other brand they will. According to the shop owner they will not work with them or give them any support, so that kills my local service option on that one.
So I have been researching for a while now and having no other outlet other than this media and speaking to a LBS concerning their brands. I did ride a rear hub and several others at the shop. None of those price wise and components wise imo measured up, Many had rear rack batteries which I do not want, and selection of size was more difficult as only limited selection on the floor.
So by taking my time and reading and reading on the subject I have come to know what I Don't want, rear rack mounted battery, 36v battery, low step thru frame, to unstable, multiple chain ring sprockets, more than one in the front, rear hub geared or not drive, restricted to 20mph speed, mechanical brakes, rim brakes, exposed cables, under 750W, low NM torque, no fenders, so by using these parameters it is quick and easy now to get down to a few contenders and make a decision based on what I Do want.
I do the same when buying a car, or in my case pickup, I knew going into the dealer the size and type of engine I wanted, towing capacity, fuel tank capacity, etc. etc. as in the past I had purchased a truck without knowing all the specs and ended up with an underpowered and improperly equipped vehicle for the way I use it. We tow a rv and camp all over the country. So when your on that grade thru the mountains and that 8500 lb. trailer feels like a anchor and there is no more power,,,well,,glad I checked the specs and can now climb the hills without even thinking about it, no replacement for cubic inches!!
Same with the bike thing for me, I don't want to be half way up one of these mountain grades around here dropping a lung and my legs on fire because I saved a few bucks or spent 3k plus on a bike that can't climb, I want to know I can hit that throttle or shift that CVT half way up without grinding or jamming a chain, and top out smiling, knowing I got the bike that is capable.
To me that is the whole point of having a powered bike,,,,,power! Or what's the point? I can continue to puff up riding my present Trek for free.
 
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