Amp Hours when battery is fully charged (Onboard Diagnostic Test)

[gadgetguy]

If you hold down the + button for 10 seconds or so and cycle the center button until you see a "9" the number next to it will show "Battery Charge (Ah).

"This value is the remaining capacity in the battery.
088 means 8.8 Ah remaining." Value range for this function is 000 - 088

After charging the battery on the Peak, the LCD screen shows 082. Should the value be 8.8Ah which is the battery capacity? Dash & Peak have the same battery, value range & Onboard Diagnostic. Would be interested to know what values others are getting on a fully charged battery. My bike is less than two weeks old and I would think that the value would be closer to 088 when fully charged with the battery being new.

 

[DashRiprock]

I'll check and get back to you...

 

[Shea N Encinitas]

I'll trade you batteries:

Things are not looking happy at club Che.. will be sure to check any 2nd battery purchases this way, asked my dealer to get a real price today.

 

[DashRiprock]

080...on a fully rested battery (a few days).

 

[Shea N Encinitas]

080...on a fully rested battery (a few days).

Mileage on that batt?

 

[DashRiprock]

96 miles

 

[Paul E.]

AFAIK there's no way to just take a measurement of a battery to really determine amp-hours contained, all such metering devices just make a guess. Unless Currie's system is so advanced that the battery measures and saves a log of the amps going in when charging and that diagnostic then reports it...

 

[Shea N Encinitas]

That makes sense, whatever the case I just put new brake pads in (2k miles) and I'm off to burn a charge, maybe record that power fluctuation thing.. -S

 

[gadgetguy]

I would go thru a few more cycles of use and see if you still get the same reading on a fully charged battery. Whatever Currie is doing in terms of Amp Hour measurement (accurate or not), the computer in the bike is doing the same for all of us. That said, with a year warranty on the battery I would ask about replacement. My bike is a week old with 90 miles and my reading 082.

 

[DashRiprock]

I would go thru a few more cycles of use and see if you still get the same reading on a fully charged battery. Whatever Currie is doing in terms of Amp Hour measurement (accurate or not), the computer in the bike is doing the same for all of us. That said, with a year warranty on the battery I would ask about replacement. My bike is a week old with 90 miles and my reading 082.

I went into this whole ebike thing with the expectation that I would never be happy with the battery for the simple fact that I have never been necessarily thrilled with every 'single' (supposedly quality) Li-ion cell that I have been long sourcing for my flashaholic habit (see candlepowerforum.com or budgetlightforum.com for even more sad cases).
'Now' I've got a whole bank of these cells that can't be anywhere near the quality standard that I was supposedly setting for myself and not necessarily achieving 100% of the time (how even one marginal cell affects an entire bank I have no idea).
I'm not advising anybody to feel one way or the other about batteries or discourage any pursuit of what they feel should be the 'gold standard' in terms of where a battery should be 'at' during the warranty period. I am simply a realist. From what I can tell, there isn't a manufacturer out there (in my price range at least) advertising this battery or that in their packs (I'm assuming) for good reason. I haven't even been able to find one (again, in the same category) who touts a 'smart' charger which allows folks to simply plug these things in and wake up the next day no harm/no foul.
Would I like to simply note a (rough) easily accessible data point at any point during my warranty...call the LBS up if it said A, B or C and wait for the mailman?...sure.
Again, I'm simply a realist in terms of where not only this market is at currently but how difficult it must be to bring a product to me at my price range that I will be 110% satisfied with...when I know full well beforehand and don't even agree whatsoever with who they are forced to source the darn parts themselves from (heck, this fact even causes me to pause if I happen to dump the bike hard or even store the blasted things in my house!).
Just my $.02...hope no offense taken.

 

[gadgetguy]

I went into this whole ebike thing with the expectation that I would never be happy with the battery for the simple fact that I have never been necessarily thrilled with every 'single' (supposedly quality) Li-ion cell that I have been long sourcing for my flashaholic habit (see candlepowerforum.com or budgetlightforum.com for even more sad cases).
'Now' I've got a whole bank of these cells that can't be anywhere near the quality standard that I was supposedly setting for myself and not necessarily achieving 100% of the time (how even one marginal cell affects an entire bank I have no idea).
I'm not advising anybody to feel one way or the other about batteries or discourage any pursuit of what they feel should be the 'gold standard' in terms of where a battery should be 'at' during the warranty period. I am simply a realist. From what I can tell, there isn't a manufacturer out there (in my price range at least) advertising this battery or that in their packs (I'm assuming) for good reason. I haven't even been able to find one (again, in the same category) who touts a 'smart' charger which allows folks to simply plug these things in and wake up the next day no harm/no foul.
Would I like to simply note a (rough) easily accessible data point at any point during my warranty...call the LBS up if it said A, B or C and wait for the mailman?...sure.
Again, I'm simply a realist in terms of where not only this market is at currently but how difficult it must be to bring a product to me at my price range that I will be 110% satisfied with...when I know full well beforehand and don't even agree whatsoever with who they are forced to source the darn parts themselves from (heck, this fact even causes me to pause if I happen to dump the bike hard or even store the blasted things in my house!).
Just my $.02...hope no offense taken.

Riding Electric bikes is just fun, but because this industry is experiencing a lot of growth, changes in technology and the production of a lot of garbage, some of us we will feel some pain. My 1st ebike (kit conversion) had major battery problems which took some time to solve. I don't feel good about it, but that is reality. So far my E3 Peak is great, but it is only a week old. There are other options to consider before we trash the battery.

1. Measurement may not be accurate - suggest you monitor the mileage your are getting per charge on your regular rides and see if it has declined.
2. Possible that the problem is the charger which is shutting down before the battery is fully charged even if it shows 100%.
3. The sample from the few posts we have is not large enough to make any judgments.

 

[Brian(J)]

All this was covered before here at post 70, I think.
Currie, by their own admission, screwed up when they put that test into the diagnostic program. My other Battery Electric Vehicle is a BMW i3 with much smarter engineers and a much bigger budget and they were smart enough not to provide an Amp hour (Ah) reading, cause they don't know either.
As far as I know it is not possible, for any amount of money, to buy a device which will give instantaneous and accurate Ah readings, so how can we expect to be seeing that on a little device on a bike?
The best you can do to get a quick idea of battery condition is put a load on the battery for a little while and then measure the voltage which will give an an approximate idea of state of charge. As Paul E points out above, the only way to determine Ah is with a load and a clock. You put the load on the battery and keep track of the time and then you have the exact Ah that battery had when you started the test.

 

[gadgetguy]

All this was covered before here at post 70, I think.
Currie, by their own admission, screwed up when they put that test into the diagnostic program. My other Battery Electric Vehicle is a BMW i3 with much smarter engineers and a much bigger budget and they were smart enough not to provide an Amp hour (Ah) reading, cause they don't know either.
As far as I know it is not possible, for any amount of money, to buy a device which will give instantaneous and accurate Ah readings, so how can we expect to be seeing that on a little device on a bike?
The best you can do to get a quick idea of battery condition is put a load on the battery for a little while and then measure the voltage which will give an an approximate idea of state of charge. As Paul E points out above, the only way to determine Ah is with a load and a clock. You put the load on the battery and keep track of the time and then you have the exact Ah that battery had when you started the test.

I agree this topic is covered in post 70 which I previously never read. Having now read post 70, I think my post should be removed or if Currie's comments could be placed after my initial statement a lot of confusion would be eliminated.

I have not read every post on this site and I would not have found the answer based only on reading the subject heading for post 70.

My other electric bike has a Cycle Analyst installed , (http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/cycle-analyst.html) which does measure the Amp hours consumed. It does not attempt to measure the capacity of the battery attached to it.

 

[Rusty]

I agree this topic is covered in post 70 which I previously never read. Having now read post 70, I think my post should be removed or if Currie's comments could be placed after my initial statement a lot of confusion would be eliminated.

I have not read every post on this site and I would not have found the answer based only on reading the subject heading for post 70.

My other electric bike has a Cycle Analyst installed , (http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/cycle-analyst.html) which does measure the Amp hours consumed. It does not attempt to measure the capacity of the battery attached to it.

Sorry about that. The gauge reading is quite "relative" and seems to vary from bike to bike. It gives you a " ball park" reading of sorts. I think mine reads like "72" or thereabouts. If you push
"8" in diagnostic mode it should read 100% or close to it at full charge. I use this function to correlate with the bar graph read-out.
Rusty