A Regenerate Bike

gromike

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
City of Dreams
I took my new-build out on a shakedown ride today. It has a torque sensing direct drive hub motor with regenerative braking. Looking at the picture, with the front rim white and the back rim black, it looks kind of ratty. Oh well, second build on a thirty dollar bike.
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The battery was from my first build when I was just learning about these things. The controller fits inside the lower battery cradle after some machining (i.e. angle grinding), so this battery was the sacrificial unit. It was my first time riding a torque sensing bike and I was getting some surging. Due to a problematic right knee I put more force on the left pedal. When I concentrated on applying an equal force on each pedal that surging went away. Also, I go a lot slower downhill because I toggle the regen on and try to harvest as much power as I can. :)
 
You would probably save more battery with a less upright riding position than you gain with regenerative breaking.
 
The 3 fused vertebrae in my neck limit my drop. Just another story of an old person riding a bike. The regenerative braking, though, rocks! The plus is that it slows your descents. All of my disastrous bike wrecks have been on full crank downhill. Kinda nice to roll downhill making juice and not worrying about a deer jumping in front.
 
Regen braking does save some break wear but the amount of generated energy is insignificant. Unless you completely drain the battery on your rides, regen won't provide any range improvement.
 
By the display (a CAv3) it reads 13.9% REGEN, which seems significant to me. The amount of that energy that actually gets stored in the battery I would assume to be (significantly?) less.
 
Regen braking does save some break wear but the amount of generated energy is insignificant.
Knowing your engineering background, I have no reason to doubt this statement. But I would like to know how you know. Too little potential or kinetic energy to capture in a bike, inefficient capture or storage, other factors?
 
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Without getting too deeply into the tech, this Evelo video explains some of the issues.


Some systems are better than others and the subject is certainly debatable but I tend to look at it from a real world perspective.

The video gets into it somewhat but basically, all you can expect to get back on average is between 5 & 10%. This of course depends on the type of riding you do. Let's say you usually get 40 miles per charge on your bike. This means you'll get an extra 2 to 4 miles using regen. Yes, it's something, but do you really need it? Most of us carry more battery than we need for an average ride. How many ride until their battery completely exhausts and absolutely need that extra range? Many, including myself, discharge to around 20% or so to prolong battery life. I would prefer to discharge to 15% if I really needed that extra 2 - 4 miles, rather than deal with the negatives associated with regen systems.

If you do a lot of downhill riding, I can see where regen might be attractive. It all depends on where and how you ride. YMMV.
 
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I really like the regen braking, and how it slows the bike in descents. It does seem to be a thing Grin promotes, and they have put some effort into it. The torque arm on my Grin motor engages on a stationary part of the hub, not the dropouts via the axle, so that seems to be well engineered in that regard.
As far as generating electricity (the reason I went with a DD motor), when I put the bike on a training stand, pedaling on regen was so difficult as to be almost impossible. So my bicycle emergency generator probably needs adjustable levels, as opposed to just toggling regen on.

When I was going down a long steep hill I was making over 600 watts for brief periods. Though I do love my homebuilt mid-drive, this torque-sensing DD hubmotor bike is an interesting thing to ride. On the mid-drive is an 8 sprocket cluster. I use hi, lo and something in between, basically 3 gears. On this hubmotor bike I use the whole range of 24 gears.
 
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I really like the regen braking, and how it slows the bike in descents. It does seem to be a thing Grin promotes, and they have put some effort into it. The torque arm on my Grin motor engages on a stationary part of the hub, not the dropouts via the axle, so that seems to be well engineered in that regard.
As far as generating electricity (the reason I went with a DD motor), when I put the bike on a training stand, pedaling on regen was so difficult as to be almost impossible. So my bicycle emergency generator probably needs adjustable levels, as opposed to just toggling regen on.

When I was going down a long steep hill I was making over 600 watts for brief periods. Though I do love my homebuilt mid-drive, this torque-sensing DD hubmotor bike is an interesting thing to ride. On the mid-drive is an 8 sprocket cluster. I use hi, lo and something in between, basically 3 gears. On this hubmotor bike I use the whole range of 24 gears.
You'll find much better discussions regarding the CA3 and regen braking settings on endless_sphere. Sadly here there's more by guess and by golly than a clear understanding of the settings. To aggressive setting almost put my front DD into ass over teakettle reaction. I don't run regen to charge, rather for incredible braking power.
 
Without getting too deeply into the tech, this Evelo video explains some of the issues.

Some systems are better than others and the subject is certainly debatable but I tend to look at it from a real world perspective.

I watched the video and I have a few things that I question.
This is my old e-bike with regenerative braking,..

20221204_152450.jpg


In the video he said that it doesn't have a free wheeling mechanism, but you don't need one.

If the the regeneration isn't turned on, then the wheel spins freely.
My regeneration turns on when either brake switch is activated or my ebike goes over 25 kph.

If you are riding a non regenerating ebike, going downhill, you can try to conserve energy by going as fast as possible and use your built up momentum to carry you further past the bottom of the hill so you don't need to power up the motor as soon.
But, if your speed increases from say 15 mph to 30 mph, the wind resistance is at least 4 times as great, (and 9 times as great if you triple your speed)

If you have a regenerating ebike, you could use regeneration to maintain the 15 mph so you're not wasting all that energy pushing you through the wind. You could probably regain 2-10 times more energy than speeding up and trying to harness momentum.
And if you keep pedaling during the decent, you get even more energy put back into the battery.

Also, I go a lot slower downhill because I toggle the regen on and try to harvest as much power as I can. :)

That all makes sense to me.
That's what I do.

One thing mentioned in the video was that regenerating/charging creates a significant amount of heat in the battery but I question how significant that is, and I would think Grin would have taken that into consideration in their design.
I'm sure it won't overcharge a battery (that would be stupidly dangerous!!), and they probably limit the recharge rate on a battery that is close to fully charged ?

My understanding is that a lithium battery that is closer to empty, can take a huge charge current without getting as hot as the same battery closer to fully charged.

@gromike said that he generated 600 Watts briefly. 600 Watts into a 48v battery is 12.5 amps.
That may very well be OK as long as it's not for extended periods of time.
I certainly wouldn't want to charge my battery at home at that rate.


As far as generating electricity (the reason I went with a DD motor), when I put the bike on a training stand, pedaling on regen was so difficult as to be almost impossible. So my bicycle emergency generator probably needs adjustable levels, as opposed to just toggling regen on.

You need a KT controller/display.
It has 5 levels of regeneration,..

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It looks like Grin has taken care of the "damaged motor shaft" issue with your torque arm placement.

I'm pretty sure that you could pedal the bike at the "Bad energy recovery" setting?
Just keep the wheel spinning as fast as you can (not your cadence).
Hub motors aren't very efficient at low RPMS.

Or, better yet, make a variable regeneration throttle.
All that the 5 different KT regeneration settings do is adjust the voltage going to the motor in the reverse of power mode.
The higher the voltage the greater the regeneration output.

Why not a double twist throttle?
Twist it one way the ebike accelerates proportionally. Twist it the other way and the bike brakes/regenerates proportionally.

Come On Grin !!??
Gimme a throttle and controller that I can work with !!

And make sure that the motor is on the rear wheel.
You don't want to go over the handlebars.

Having steering and regular braking on the front wheel is enough.
Skidding out the front wheel is a lot worse than skidding the rear wheel.



I had a geared hub screwdriver in the 90's. It was a ten dollar piece of crap because it would regenerate instead of locking the axle.
It used two AA batteries to power a 0.00001 Watt motor (or however many horsies a tiny 3v motor can deliver).
When I hit the power to unscrew a tight screw, it wasn't powerful enough to undo the screw, and when I twisted the handle, the handle just rotated so I had to use a normal screwdriver to at least loosen the screw, but that pretty much defeated the purpose of an electric screwdriver.

I bought a better one that had more power, and if it wasn't powerful enough to undo a screw, I could twist the handle and the gears would binde so I could loosen it, then hit the power to undo the rest.

So I get why they say you can't regenerate a geared hub motor, but there are ways around it.
Apparently Grin is working on a geared hub regenerating motor where the armature is spinning 5 times faster.

Now all they need is a proper throttle with reverse twist to go along with it.
Just ditch the rear brake lever and work the rear brake with a variable regenerating reverse twist throttle.
 
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Or, better yet, make a variable regeneration throttle.
All that the 5 different KT regeneration settings do is adjust the voltage going to the motor in the reverse of power mode.
The higher the voltage the greater the regeneration output.

Why not a double twist throttle?
Twist it one way the ebike accelerates proportionally. Twist it the other way and the bike brakes/regenerates proportionally.

Come On Grin !!??
Gimme a throttle and controller that I can work with !!

And make sure that the motor is on the rear wheel.
You don't want to go over the handlebars.

So I get why they say you can't regenerate a geared hub motor, but there are ways around it.
Apparently Grin is working on a geared hub regenerating motor where the armature is spinning 5 times faster.

Now all they need is a proper throttle with reverse twist to go along with it.
Just ditch the rear brake lever and work the rear brake with a variable regenerating reverse twist throttle.

No, they aren't "working on it", they have that all ready to go right now. Spend some time reading up on the GMAC system for a clear understanding of what they have going on. If you have ANY real interest in knowing more about regen, or more accurately, what CAN be done with regen, this system is pretty much state of the art - right down to variable braking (capable of locking up the rear wheel) that's effective down into the single digit speeds.

As far as the motor, it IS a geared hub (yes, w/5:1 gearing, so this armature is turning 5 times faster than a DD) with a pretty awesome reputation by MAC, with the difference being the disabled internal clutch Grin is using. See more about it in their docs.... -Al
 
OK, I'll read up on it.

I was hesitating because I didn't want to end up wanting something at Grin prices.
I was going to get one of these, but it comes to over $65 with tax and shipping.

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I was thinking of getting one of these next year,..

Screenshot_20230408-092638_DuckDuckGo.jpg


But maybe I'll get a good used mountain bike and put a Grin regeneration kit on it instead ?


I did some research on my old ebike and found this,..

Screenshot_20220831-163059_DuckDuckGo.jpg


Apparently it was made for the market in Denmark.
I think it was for girls to deliver tulips.😂


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I'll trade mine for a riding mower too. 😂
 
Having steering and regular braking on the front wheel is enough.
Skidding out the front wheel is a lot worse than skidding the rear wheel.
Every two wheel vehicle I’ve ridden has had the front brakes as primary power. We learn to mitigate the two but front braking accounts for the majority of my braking power. Regen just makes it more powerful and controllable for me. On non regen bikes I wear out 2 sets of front pads for every 1 set of rear. Hard braking is almost entirely front with scrubbing off some speed and stabilizing using the rear. I’m a lousy tech writer post strike but maybe I’m making sense…
 
Spend some time reading up on the GMAC system for a clear understanding of what they have going on.

I did a quick search at Grin, and I can get a GMAC system for between $1,154 and $3,855 depending on what all I have included.


Screenshot_20230408-102128_DuckDuckGo.jpg



I could possibly convert my T1000 for as little as $1,154 if I get the minimum kit and lace the motor into my wheel myself?
I did a quick look and the kit comes with a controller, but I think that I can use my KT controller?

The kits controller is rated 70 amps peak with 45 amps continuous and the battery has a 40 amp BMS.

My new battery from @Jenny Mao is on its way but it has a 30 amp BMS and I don't don't want to cook it !!


So I've gotta get my lerninz on and figure it out.

What the heck is a 70 amp controller?
The motor cable wires must be as thick as the cables on a welder?
How can it draw more amps than the supplied battery's BMS can deliver ?

That doesn't make sense to me.
 
Every two wheel vehicle I’ve ridden has had the front brakes as primary power.

Before I bought the used DD ebike (almost 10 years ago) I was talking to the guy at the bike shop about buying a front hub motor for my old beat up mountain bike.

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He told me that a front hub motor is not a good idea because it adds weight to the front wheel and powering the front wheel can lead to control issues especially if you spin the tire under power.
Regeneration is even worse, with the on/off nature of regeneration kicking in.
If you set it too strong, you can lock up your wheel and go over the handlebars.
If you go over the handlebars on a regular bike, it's because you squeezed the brakes too hard.
You can't control the squeeze pressure of regular regeneration.

I’m a lousy tech writer post strike but maybe I’m making sense…


Yeah, me too ✌
I just try a lot of dumb s*it and write about it in my own words.

I didn't like the rake angle of my old mountain bike so I cut the bottom down tube, took a torch to the top tube and pounded the snot out of it with a sledge hammer to rake out the front end. Then I reattached the bottom tube with a piece of a windsurfing boom.

It kinda worked a little, but mostly I just made a big mess. 😂

I could have cut the frame at the steering neck and rewelded it back on.
I've got a welder, but I suck at it.
All I do is burn holes through the metal. 😂

Welding is an art.
I am no artist.
 
GMAC will need the Grin controller. KT is nice, but clearly over it's head with what this system needs to function as designed....
 
GMAC will need the Grin controller. KT is nice, but clearly over it's head with what this system needs to function as designed....

Well, as long as I can turn it down.

I don't want 70 amps running in or out of my battery, or motor.
(I guess that I have to buy the patch cord and a computer too, to go along with a GMAC? I was hoping to avoid that. I hate computers. My stupid smartphone annoys me enough. 😂)
 
Before I bought the used DD ebike (almost 10 years ago) I was talking to the guy at the bike shop about buying a front hub motor for my old beat up mountain bike.

View attachment 151355

He told me that a front hub motor is not a good idea because it adds weight to the front wheel and powering the front wheel can lead to control issues especially if you spin the tire under power.
Regeneration is even worse, with the on/off nature of regeneration kicking in.
If you set it too strong, you can lock up your wheel and go over the handlebars.
If you go over the handlebars on a regular bike, it's because you squeezed the brakes too hard.
You can't control the squeeze pressure of regular regeneration.




Yeah, me too ✌
I just try a lot of dumb s*it and write about it in my own words.

I didn't like the rake angle of my old mountain bike so I cut the bottom down tube, took a torch to the top tube and pounded the snot out of it with a sledge hammer to rake out the front end. Then I reattached the bottom tube with a piece of a windsurfing boom.

It kinda worked a little, but mostly I just made a big mess. 😂

I could have cut the frame at the steering neck and rewelded it back on.
I've got a welder, but I suck at it.
All I do is burn holes through the metal. 😂

Welding is an art.
I am no artist.
Another FOS tech in a bike shop. There are a number of us here with a decade of experience and have none of the issues blathered by the shop. My first regen an all subsequent have depended on Grin displays, easily programmed and with great support. Wanna platt we other big boy toys? Gotta ha big boy tools. ;) ;) ;)
 
,..Grin displays, easily programmed and with great support.

Can you program it using the display (like my KT controller/display) or will I have to buy a computer? (then have to figure that damn thing out. 😂)

My KT does plug in but only to another KT to copy settings, and I don't need a computer.
 
Can you program it using the display (like my KT controller/display) or will I have to buy a computer? (then have to figure that damn thing out. 😂)

My KT does plug in but only to another KT to copy settings, and I don't need a computer.
Download official and unofficial manuals and search regen and eBrake.

CA3 can be daunting but I found the struggles worth my time.

Yes it can be done from the display but I find that more difficult.
 
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