915miles in 45days = 32charge cycles
Allan47.7339
Well-Known Member
There is always the possibility Specialized has built in the same protection in their system as the Chevy Volt example. It's only software that says the battery is at 100% or zero. If I wanted a science project I would have done a home built. I wanted a ready to ride e-bicycle (not e-scooter or e-moped).
Allan47.7339
Well-Known Member
I just got a Turbo SC battery for my 2014 Turbo S. The app counts each charge but it also shows a recommended replacement of 800 cycles. I don't know if it adjusts depending on battery health?
Marko
Active Member
Is everything working ok with the new battery installed? I think I read somewhere here that the light switch stops working in older models with the new battery.
Cameron Newland
Well-Known Member
As I explained, it will severely decrease the battery's cycle life.
If you're comfortable with 300-500 cycles and then replacing your battery for $500+, then charging to 100% is fine, but if you'd like to get 1000-2000 cycles, the only way to do that with today's lithium cells is to manage the charge state. It's a trade-off either way, and the right answer is different for every ebike owner. I used to be able to manage my charge because I had a 10 mile commute each way on flat ground, so I was able to start my commute at 80% charge and get to work with ~30% charge remaining, then charge it up to 80% at the office, and then commute home and charge back up to 80% in the evening. Now I live in San Francisco and the hills here severely reduce my bike's range, so I tend to charge my bike to 100% more often so that I don't have range anxiety.
Cameron Newland
Well-Known Member
There's no need to test whether your battery can be charged to 100%. As long as you have a BMS and healthy, operable cells, you can rest assured that you'll be able to fully charge it.
Even if you charge your battery to 80%, you'll still have to charge it up to 100% occasionally (say, once every 10 charges) so that you can balance the pack cells' voltage. From what I understand, balancing of cells via the BMS only occurs after some cells reach max voltage, i.e. at 99-100% of battery charge state.
Another thing is that even if you try to watch your battery like a hawk, you'll sometimes forget that you're charging it to 80% and you'll inadvertently give it a full charge. LunaCycle (and perhaps Grin Tech?) currently sells a battery charger that will let you manually select 80%, 90%, or 100% charge states, and it will stop charging once it hits the charge state that you select, so that can be useful for automating the process of charging to a particular charge state.
John Dombrowski
Active Member
I would imagine the vast majority of ebike owners charge their bikes all the way.
Marko
Active Member
Like someone said, I also tend to think that charging to 100% (as indicated by the bike) actually means charging 80% or whatever is considered the best max charge level, because the software was designed to protect the battery from aging. I might be wrong. There is some kind of protection in the low charge area (eco mode engages before the battery is empty) so you cant completely drain the battery. I am pretty sure that even when the battery says it is 0%, it really isn't.
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Allan47.7339
Well-Known Member
Everything works fine with the new battery. I was able to do my normal commute faster with more battery left. Paradoxically I had harder workout at the same time.
The app took a couple of tries to figure out.
The app took a couple of tries to figure out.
John Dombrowski
Active Member
My app is very buggy. It doesn't store my info like weight, height, etc. It just keeps the default settings. My dealer said they are supposed to update the app soon.
Allan47.7339
Well-Known Member
I am using Android app and it seems to keep my user data just fine. I have not tried the automatic mode control, Strava link or navigation, just the diagnosis page.
John Dombrowski
Active Member
IOS
MegaGrogan'
New Member
Ive put 4500km on my pack in the last 6 months and its suffered no noticeable degradation, only thing that seems to effect range (other than wind and hills etc) is the ambient temp, when it drops the battery just gets used up a tiny bit faster, maybe an extra 4% per commute, but hell, that could be the way I ride too.
Interestingly enough, I dont see virtually any range increase dropping power down to 70%, and only perhaps an extra 10km at 50%. However, at 40% I can get at least 35km more than in 70% mode.
Battery gets charged every time its been ridden, regardless of charge level, my commute usually leaves it around 40%. It will be interesting to see how the battery is operating in a years time. From previous experience, I should see little to no change.
Interestingly enough, I dont see virtually any range increase dropping power down to 70%, and only perhaps an extra 10km at 50%. However, at 40% I can get at least 35km more than in 70% mode.
Battery gets charged every time its been ridden, regardless of charge level, my commute usually leaves it around 40%. It will be interesting to see how the battery is operating in a years time. From previous experience, I should see little to no change.
kermit_xc
Member
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good data - thanks! and keep on piling those mil ... I mean kilometers!
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