(#6) [M2S] (Photo's too).. (UpDated April 26, 2020) Protect Your Ebikes' "Junk"..

Sic Puppy

Active Member
(Jan 2021 update: I am attaching the following link to my posting(s) located over at the BikTrix ebike companys' EBReview forum site:
https://electricbikereview.com/foru...-sensor-bottom-bracket-price-is-200-00.40097/
As of today, Jan 5th, it is a work-in-progress. It should make current M2S ebike owners really appreciate their very correct ebike purchase. I also realize that many potential ebike buyers cruise these forums as an aid in their search for the ideal ebike at the most practical price. They also need to be made aware of “brand service after the sale”, or lack/deception thereof. After all, an ebike purchase of $1,500+ is no small investment. You be the judge.)
ADDENDUM on Jan 10, 2020: Since I now have numerous threads posted (sorry about that), I want to let viewers know their chronological sequence, thus every thread title will begin with (# ).
Reader: You REALLY do need to first read my other recently posted thread (#5) Some more M2S KUSH/ebike bits of info for all.. Sept 11,2019 , so that this thread will make complete sense to you.. One without the other is rather "lacking" in regards to information given in this one.
I have made mention on items/ways to help safeguard your ebikes' electrical stuff. In this thread I hope to further elaborate, and will also include some photo's.

The blue frame/red stem ebike is my 2018 KUSH dual suspension 750w rear hub (Bafang) toy. It was delivered on April 30, 2018 and now has 9,120 miles on the odometer.
The white frame/blue stem ebike is my 2019 R750 hardtail (front suspension only) 750w rear hub (Bafang) toy. It was delivered on July 11, 2019 and has 1,425 miles on the odometer. Since I am not exactly crazy about the model name “R750”, I have nicknamed it WhiteyFord since it has the white frame color.
As you will see in the photo's, I have ALOT of stuff on my handlebar area. Most of the items are safety-related; blue lens tinted headlight (flashes), dingle bell, bar ends, rearview mirror, and a U-shaped OR double straight bar triathlon bars converted to bumper/protector for the many handlebar electronic/mechanical items. The red stem bike also has a small Battery Capacity Indicator voltage/battery% LCD monitor/indicator.
There is also a pair of handcuffs, attached to each ebikes seat rails via round key rings and held taunt by a hair scrunchy thingie on a hook.
I will give a breakdown on each of the aforementioned items.
Blue Lens Tinted Headlight: (this item is actually mounted on the suspension fork cross bar) Though the M2S ebikes come standard with a headlight, it does not have a “flash/strobe” feature. I try to ride 50 miles every day. 90% of those miles are done on paved/concrete dedicated bike/multi-use paths. These paths have tunnels, underpasses, shady areas-- in other words lots of light/dark/light/dark scenarios. Like 99% of all bike riders, I wear sunglasses for glare and for bug protection. The only downside of those sunglasses is that, when you go into a dark area, you can't see anything that might be in there with you. The use of the flashing headlight is a great attention getter and gives a courtesy “heads up” to others about my presence. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32731128032.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.264.UZVGZ6
This headlight is awesome. It is also VERY bright; so much so that I would occasionally have opposite direction trail users hold up their hand over their eyes to insinuate “Brite Lite, Brite Lite”. I eventually formed a thought and stumbled upon some pill holders (blue) at WalMart. I glued the two lid halves together and then glued the whole container to the rim of the headlight rim. By the way, these headlights are so inexpensive that I buy them 4 at a time (also because I own multiple bikes); it just takes them about four weeks to arrive-- as does any item purchased thru AliBaba website (such as Reention Dorado 48volt batteries and Bafang 750w rear hubs/wheels). Hmmm.
You may also notice a white object on top of the blue lensed headlight. That is the face-only of an LCD wristwatch that I glued to the lites' topside.
Bar Ends: I have been riding mountain bikes since 1983. Any of you viewers/readers who have been riding for awhile know that “lighter (weight) is better” in any matter pertaining to bicycles in general. Want to lose 2 pounds off that old school bikes' weight? Pay an additional $2,000 for the titanium/carbon fiber frame version, etc. etc. During all of my old school bike (any bike NOT an ebike) riding years, such was a part of the “religion”. The ONLY exception I ever made to the lighter/minimalist mindset was the use of bar ends. They are just fantastic for assisting a rider during climbs. Most of my many bikes over the past 36 years, including the current 7 bikes, have had bar ends installed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002I7PRUQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But now, with the advent of the ebike, bike weight just does not matter-- that little electric motor will get you going, and keep you going, for forever and a day.. Even if YOU get F-A-T.
In my case, since I ride so many miles on such a regular basis, I love to use the bar ends to mix up my hand positions as I ride. A real godsend at my age (68). On a 50 mile bike ride, I probably spend 70% of the time gripping those bar ends. I even installed handlebar grips on them-- work awesomely, too.
However, as you can see from the photo's, those bar ends are also a great location for a dingle bell and/or a rearview mirror AND they serve to protect all of those ebike items attached to your handlebar area.
Another advantage to this item is that you can flip your bike upside down and still be assured that all the stuff on your handlebar will be protected. I am religious in using this very technique ( wheelying/walking back/flipping da ebike) when dealing with tire swap-outs-- at least 30 times between both M2S ebikes.. You'll just need to loosen/re-position whatever is attached to the barends (rearview mirrors, etc.).
The only real downside to bar ends is that you have to move every item on your handlebar inward 1/2”-1” to accommodate the bar ends, too. No big deal, though.
Dingle bell: What Can I say? These little rascals are a godsend for providing a courtesy shout-out to other trail users. They are not too large and not too loud. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TC9K5T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have always gotten upset by other riders who passed me and didn't give a ”on your left” call-out or a dingle bell ring. Jesus Christ, how lazy/disrespectful can a person be?? Very.. Luckily, I am NOT one of those azzwholes. I only recently went from the call-out to the bell ring alert.
RearView Mirror: Only within the past week have I been using these rascals. I occasionally ride with another (very much novice) ebike rider. I was constantly having to look back to be sure that said ebiker hadn't driven off the trail/ridden into the side of a bus due to whatever. The only problem with looking back is that, if I turned around to the left, I would veer left.. turned to the right, veer right. Not good AND I'm not used to monitoring another rider. This person has a mirror attached to the end of the handlebar-- it sticks out about 4”-- and he swears by it in affording a view of upcoming riders about to overtake us.
Last week, I FINALLY broke down and bought a pair (one mirror for the left side of each M2S ebike).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9JD8YD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Now, I am a convert. The local bike paths can get very busy at times and I have always been “conditioned” to turning my head just enough to see out of my peripheral vision as to what/who is behind me. I stumbled across these very well made mirrors (no plastic—all metal) and decided to give them a test ride.
I like having them mounted on my bar ends in a way that allows them to be much higher than handlebar end units AND still not needing to protrude way out beyond the end of the handlebar (no more than 1”).
Also, to my amazement, “shudder/shake” is minimal-- almost non-existent. I even use the white frame ebike (WhiteyFord) in full “rigid” mode (front suspension fork is locked out) and everything is still just fine and dandy. I am quite satisfied with this safety assistant item.
Rearview Mirror UpDate on April 26, 2020: The following is my April 24, 2020 AMAZON review on these excellent mirrors;
"I first ordered a set of these in color BLACK. Riding mountain bikes since 1983, and then, progressing (?) onward to electric bikes (EBikes), I finally, in summer of 2019, installed this 1st ever (for me) wonderful mirror on my left side handlebar bar end. I like the "set of 2" , even tho I only use one because, in the case of breakage (crash/stupidity/etc), I would still have a complete mirror to use for parts, etc. Everything about this black mirror set was "5 stars", fer sure. The construction is 100% metal and glass (NO plastic anywhere).
So, I decided to also order a set in BLUE and a set in RED, with the intent of "mixing things up" colorwise. You know how some people take a perfectly good automobile and, the second they take ownership, things immediately start to get swapped out for customized items? Well, I am like that with my bicycles (7 so far, of which 4 are ebikes).
Anyway, the BLACK set, and everything about them, was/is top-notch.
However, when I got the BLUE set and the RED set, out of a total of 4 mirrors, 3 had a defect in the form of the two little screws that attach the mirrors body to the long arm. The screws (2) would very easily strip out when you went to tighten the mirror. Then, to make things worse, there is a little nut (2) inside the mirror body that will become dislodged and flop around inside the mirror body, making a constant little rattling that you will quickly tire of hearing.
So, after forming a thought, I located some Elmers glue and squeezed a decent amount into one of the screw holes in the mirror body. I then determined which side of the mirror would be the top side of the (eventually) installed mirror when fastened onto the handlebar/bar end. I marked the bottom side with a marker/ink pen and then turned the mirror body so that the glue and , by default, the little nuts, would be along the bottom side. I then gently jiggled the mirror body until the "nut noise rattle" disappeared. Thus the glue had captured the nut(s) and rattle was gone-gone..
Now, on to the screws themselves. Go to Lowes/ HomeDepot/etc and get a 6-pack of HILLMAN METAL Pan Phillips #12x 3/4 inch screws for $1.28 (item # 490221).. Use those metal screws in place of the original units. You will need a total of 4 screws IF both mirrors suffer from the "stripped out" . So, the 6-pack means you will be ahead of the game.
I know that having to deal with the aforementioned defect is a slight inconvenience but, the reality is that for the price, this pair of mirrors REALLY ROCK. By the way, if I had not bought the 2 additional (blue and red) sets, I would have probably never encountered the screw strippage with the BLACK set. So, though I can't give this item "5 stars, I won't give it less than "4 stars" either because it really is a very nice set of mirrors."... end of my April 24, 2020 AMAZON review...
Hand Cuffs-- Talk Dirty, I Love It: The handcuffs mounted under/behind the saddles of the 2 ebikes serve 2 real purposes:]
  1. a deterrent to possible casual theft. A person who sees them just might think twice about stealing a bike (any bike) that could very possibly belong to a police person. Extra effort/diligence would to forthcoming in regaining possession of the stolen(police persons) ebike.[/FONT]
  2. I never ever lock my 2 M2S fat tire ebikes because I NEVER EVER ride them somewhere that requires a lock-up/time spent away scenario. However, at age 68, I could at any moment, have a “senior moment” and need to make a hasty detour to da terlet. In that case, my absence will be short lived (unless I doze off), BUT I will still need to secure the Mighty Beast. Thus the hand cuffs. They weigh very little and they only cost $12. Each of my bikes has their own dedicated set of cuffs (I got tired of constantly transferring them from bike to bike). I use key rings attached to the saddle rails to insert the cuff arm through and a scrunchie on a hook to attach the other cuff to the frame. Tension keeps the cuffs from clanging around, plus they are always easily seen by other riders, etc.. Food For Thought..
    LCD monitor for voltage/battery % remaining: The M2S computer display unit (CDU) display will show “188%” when you first power up the ebike. It quickly disappears. The owners manual/ quick reference placard states: “ *188% & DST need BMS support. Not currently available “.. Give Me A Break.. It's not rocket science and we are not NASA. Lets face it ,I've grown tired of the inaccuracy of the 5-bar “battery remaining” displayed on the cdu. You know, if I go 20 miles before bar #5 disappears, that should mean that I will be able to go a total of 100 miles before bar #1 goes away (5 bars, each @20 mp bar= 100 miles total). In other words, linear dissipation-- BUT NO, it is not to be!! Now, whenever a bar disappears, I'll just light up the ole LCD and see what it says in regards to “% of battery remaining” . Those ebike factory computer displays SHOULD be able to give better/more concise % readout information-- lord only knows that there is a multitude of other bull$hit information readily available within their “menu” pages. Anyway, for the next 1,000 miles I'll evaluate the accuracy/potential of this small Battery Capacity Indicator monitor. https://www.amazon.com/Icstation-Ca...=B07CHM3NHH&psc=1&refRID=CFCSECQBAEFSP1J5NT4E
    SideNote: the actual display has green background with black digits/battery outline-- the reverse of what is shown on the internet.
    I have installed this on the red stem ebike. It is directly below the ebikes computer display screen. This little monitor is more of a curiosity satisfy-er than anything else. Since I do not use the M2S factory installed headlight, I have some extra power wires just hanging around-- so, I hooked them up to this little rascal just for yitz n' wrenz. Ya don't even need to cut/splice any wiring because the headlight wires have the female end of the connection-- just insert the little LCDs wires into them and U B stylin'.
    Instead of needing to press a button on the LCDs display box, I only need to press-and-hold (for 2 seconds) the “+” button on my ebikes computer. Doing so “turns on” the ebike headlight/computer display unit backlight, thus ALSO illuminating the LCD display for 10 seconds before it automatically shuts off (it may then be necessary to again quick- press the + button to activate the green LCD display). After checking the LCDs “battery% / volts” I then have to manually turn off the headlight/computer display unit (cdu) backlight.
    I have already discovered that the little LCDs “type battery” selection, as shown in the paper/website instructions, is completely BOGUS-- there is not even a “li” (for lithium) selection option. So, since I have 2 batteries of identical spec's, I went on my daily ride and ran the 48v 16ah black battery down to “1 battery bar” and then continued on for another 4 miles. It never started blinking/flashing, indicating that the battery was VERY SOON to be completely exhausted, but it couldn't have been too much farther. Now I was back to the condo with two batteries; 1 was 100% freshly charged and 1 was just about out of juice. Now it was just a matter of inserting the red(+) and black (-) wires into the battery holes and then going thru the little LCD monitors' menu and seeing which setting shows “100%” and “53.4 volts” when reading the fresh battery and then swapping out for the nearly exhausted battery to get a logical reading from it. JACKPOT!! Eventually I got a low battery display of “4%” and “44.0 volts”. I WIN!! I did the swap out thing 3 times just to be sure. The menu setting of “12C” is the winner for the 16ah battery pack] So, if you want to invest in this lil' monitor toy, you are now very far ahead of the game as far as installation/setup are concerned. Also, during battery recharging, during its 4.5 hour refilling, I can check the monitor to see what it reads as battery% and voltage are increased. Sure nuff, both items show a gradual increase as the recharging progresses. I'll be installing one on WhiteyFord, too because toyz iz toyz. The little LCD monitor only weighs about as much as a bunny fart, so using Gorilla HeavyDuty duct tape to connect it to the bottom of the ebikes cdu display is a piece of cake-- plus, if you need access to the back of the monitor, just flip it up and over. Too cool.
    I will give you an update when I post the “10,000 mile” thread in a few months.
  3. ADDENDUM on Jan 1, 2020: If you buy this type led monitor, you may as well go ahead and buy this connector, too E-flite Y-Harness, HD 6" (2): Universal Light Kit, EFLA617. It is actually used for radio controlled airplane lighting systems. I broke one of the wires at the male connecter (the wires are very fragile/delicate) and had to do ALOT of searching to find the correct type harness. The added bonus with this particular harness is that it a 2 male plugs AND the package contains 2 sets of wiring AND the wires are twice is thick as those included with the lcd monitor. Thats all for now. I hope that the photo's are gonna post otay. Sic Puppy..
 

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Hi Klein Rider,
I just rotate them every other day, or thereabouts. I have a multitude of bike routes to choose from, so it is just a matter of "how do I get my 50 miles today?" Toyz iz Toyz.. I'm trying to get to 10g miles with the Kush, so it kinda gets priority until I hit that mark. It now has 9,280 on the odometer. WhiteyFord has 1,420.
How do you determine which bike to ride, between the Kush and the hard tail?
 
On my other very recently posted thread Some more M2S KUSH/ebike bits of info for all.. Sept 11,2019 , I have made mention on items/ways to help safeguard your ebikes' electrical stuff. In this thread I hope to further elaborate, and will also include some photo's.
The blue frame/red stem ebike is my 2018 KUSH dual suspension 750w rear hub (Bafang) toy. It was delivered on April 30, 2018 and now has 9,120 miles on the odometer.
The white frame/blue stem ebike is my 2019 R750 hardtail (front suspension only) 750w rear hub (Bafang) toy. It was delivered on July 11, 2019 and has 1,425 miles on the odometer. Since I am not exactly crazy about the model name “R750”, I have nicknamed it WhiteyFord since it has the white frame color.
As you will see in the photo's, I have ALOT of stuff on my handlebar area. Most of the items are safety-related; blue lens tinted headlight (flashes), dingle bell, bar ends, rearview mirror, and a U-shaped OR double straight bar triathlon bars converted to bumper/protector for the many handlebar electronic/mechanical items. The red stem bike also has a small Battery Capacity Indicator voltage/battery% LCD monitor/indicator.
There is also a pair of handcuffs, attached to each ebikes seat rails via round key rings and held taunt by a hair scrunchy thingie on a hook.
I will give a breakdown on each of the aforementioned items.
Blue Lens Tinted Headlight: (this item is actually mounted on the suspension fork cross bar) Though the M2S ebikes come standard with a headlight, it does not have a “flash/strobe” feature. I try to ride 50 miles every day. 90% of those miles are done on paved/concrete dedicated bike/multi-use paths. These paths have tunnels, underpasses, shady areas-- in other words lots of light/dark/light/dark scenarios. Like 99% of all bike riders, I wear sunglasses for glare and for bug protection. The only downside of those sunglasses is that, when you go into a dark area, you can't see anything that might be in there with you. The use of the flashing headlight is a great attention getter and gives a courtesy “heads up” to others about my presence. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32731128032.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.264.UZVGZ6
This headlight is awesome. It is also VERY bright; so much so that I would occasionally have opposite direction trail users hold up their hand over their eyes to insinuate “Brite Lite, Brite Lite”. I eventually formed a thought and stumbled upon some pill holders (blue) at WalMart. I glued the two lid halves together and then glued the whole container to the rim of the headlight rim. By the way, these headlights are so inexpensive that I buy them 4 at a time (also because I own multiple bikes); it just takes them about four weeks to arrive-- as does any item purchased thru AliBaba website (such as Reention Dorado 48volt batteries and Bafang 750w rear hubs/wheels). Hmmm.
You may also notice a white object on top of the blue lensed headlight. That is the face-only of an LCD wristwatch that I glued to the lites' topside.
Bar Ends: I have been riding mountain bikes since 1983. Any of you viewers/readers who have been riding for awhile know that “lighter (weight) is better” in any matter pertaining to bicycles in general. Want to lose 2 pounds off that old school bikes' weight? Pay an additional $2,000 for the titanium/carbon fiber frame version, etc. etc. During all of my old school bike (any bike NOT an ebike) riding years, such was a part of the “religion”. The ONLY exception I ever made to the lighter/minimalist mindset was the use of bar ends. They are just fantastic for assisting a rider during climbs. Most of my many bikes over the past 36 years, including the current 7 bikes, have had bar ends installed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002I7PRUQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But now, with the advent of the ebike, bike weight just does not matter-- that little electric motor will get you going, and keep you going, for forever and a day.. Even if YOU get F-A-T.
In my case, since I ride so many miles on such a regular basis, I love to use the bar ends to mix up my hand positions as I ride. A real godsend at my age (68). On a 50 mile bike ride, I probably spend 70% of the time gripping those bar ends. I even installed handlebar grips on them-- work awesomely, too.
However, as you can see from the photo's, those bar ends are also a great location for a dingle bell and/or a rearview mirror AND they serve to protect all of those ebike items attached to your handlebar area.
Another advantage to this item is that you can flip your bike upside down and still be assured that all the stuff on your handlebar will be protected. I am religious in using this very technique ( wheelying/walking back/flipping da ebike) when dealing with tire swap-outs-- at least 30 times between both M2S ebikes.. You'll just need to loosen/re-position whatever is attached to the barends (rearview mirrors, etc.).
The only real downside to bar ends is that you have to move every item on your handlebar inward 1/2”-1” to accommodate the bar ends, too. No big deal, though.
Dingle bell: What Can I say? These little rascals are a godsend for providing a courtesy shout-out to other trail users. They are not too large and not too loud. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TC9K5T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have always gotten upset by other riders who passed me and didn't give a ”on your left” call-out or a dingle bell ring. Jesus Christ, how lazy/disrespectful can a person be?? Very.. Luckily, I am NOT one of those azzwholes. I only recently went from the call-out to the bell ring alert.
RearView Mirror: Only within the past week have I been using these rascals. I occasionally ride with another (very much novice) ebike rider. I was constantly having to look back to be sure that said ebiker hadn't driven off the trail/ridden into the side of a bus due to whatever. The only problem with looking back is that, if I turned around to the left, I would veer left.. turned to the right, veer right. Not good AND I'm not used to monitoring another rider. This person has a mirror attached to the end of the handlebar-- it sticks out about 4”-- and he swears by it in affording a view of upcoming riders about to overtake us.
Last week, I FINALLY broke down and bought a pair (one mirror for the left side of each M2S ebike).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9JD8YD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Now, I am a convert. The local bike paths can get very busy at times and I have always been “conditioned” to turning my head just enough to see out of my peripheral vision as to what/who is behind me. I stumbled across these very well made mirrors (no plastic—all metal) and decided to give them a test ride.
I like having them mounted on my bar ends in a way that allows them to be much higher than handlebar end units AND still not needing to protrude way out beyond the end of the handlebar (no more than 1”).
Also, to my amazement, “shudder/shake” is minimal-- almost non-existent. I even use the white frame ebike (WhiteyFord) in full “rigid” mode (front suspension fork is locked out) and everything is still just fine and dandy. I am quite satisfied with this safety assistant item.
Hand Cuffs-- Talk Dirty, I Love It: The handcuffs mounted under/behind the saddles of the 2 ebikes serve 2 real purposes:]
  1. a deterrent to possible casual theft. A person who sees them just might think twice about stealing a bike (any bike) that could very possibly belong to a police person. Extra effort/diligence would to forthcoming in regaining possession of the stolen(police persons) ebike.[/FONT]
  2. I never ever lock my 2 M2S fat tire ebikes because I NEVER EVER ride them somewhere that requires a lock-up/time spent away scenario. However, at age 68, I could at any moment, have a “senior moment” and need to make a hasty detour to da terlet. In that case, my absence will be short lived (unless I doze off), BUT I will still need to secure the Mighty Beast. Thus the hand cuffs. They weigh very little and they only cost $12. Each of my bikes has their own dedicated set of cuffs (I got tired of constantly transferring them from bike to bike). I use key rings attached to the saddle rails to insert the cuff arm through and a scrunchie on a hook to attach the other cuff to the frame. Tension keeps the cuffs from clanging around, plus they are always easily seen by other riders, etc.. Food For Thought..
    LCD monitor for voltage/battery % remaining: The M2S computer display unit (CDU) display will show “188%” when you first power up the ebike. It quickly disappears. The owners manual/ quick reference placard states: “ *188% & DST need BMS support. Not currently available “.. Give Me A Break.. It's not rocket science and we are not NASA. Lets face it ,I've grown tired of the inaccuracy of the 5-bar “battery remaining” displayed on the cdu. You know, if I go 20 miles before bar #5 disappears, that should mean that I will be able to go a total of 100 miles before bar #1 goes away (5 bars, each @20 mp bar= 100 miles total). In other words, linear dissipation-- BUT NO, it is not to be!! Now, whenever a bar disappears, I'll just light up the ole LCD and see what it says in regards to “% of battery remaining” . Those ebike factory computer displays SHOULD be able to give better/more concise % readout information-- lord only knows that there is a multitude of other bull$hit information readily available within their “menu” pages. Anyway, for the next 1,000 miles I'll evaluate the accuracy/potential of this small Battery Capacity Indicator monitor. https://www.amazon.com/Icstation-Ca...=B07CHM3NHH&psc=1&refRID=CFCSECQBAEFSP1J5NT4E
    SideNote: the actual display has green background with black digits/battery outline-- the reverse of what is shown on the internet.
    I have installed this on the red stem ebike. It is directly below the ebikes computer display screen. This little monitor is more of a curiosity satisfy-er than anything else. Since I do not use the M2S factory installed headlight, I have some extra power wires just hanging around-- so, I hooked them up to this little rascal just for yitz n' wrenz. Ya don't even need to cut/splice any wiring because the headlight wires have the female end of the connection-- just insert the little LCDs wires into them and U B stylin'.
    Instead of needing to press a button on the LCDs display box, I only need to press-and-hold (for 2 seconds) the “+” button on my ebikes computer. Doing so “turns on” the ebike headlight/computer display unit backlight, thus ALSO illuminating the LCD display for 10 seconds before it automatically shuts off (it may then be necessary to again quick- press the + button to activate the green LCD display). After checking the LCDs “battery% / volts” I then have to manually turn off the headlight/computer display unit (cdu) backlight.
    I have already discovered that the little LCDs “type battery” selection, as shown in the paper/website instructions, is completely BOGUS-- there is not even a “li” (for lithium) selection option. So, since I have 2 batteries of identical spec's, I went on my daily ride and ran the 48v 16ah black battery down to “1 battery bar” and then continued on for another 4 miles. It never started blinking/flashing, indicating that the battery was VERY SOON to be completely exhausted, but it couldn't have been too much farther. Now I was back to the condo with two batteries; 1 was 100% freshly charged and 1 was just about out of juice. Now it was just a matter of inserting the red(+) and black (-) wires into the battery holes and then going thru the little LCD monitors' menu and seeing which setting shows “100%” and “53.4 volts” when reading the fresh battery and then swapping out for the nearly exhausted battery to get a logical reading from it. JACKPOT!! Eventually I got a low battery display of “4%” and “44.0 volts”. I WIN!! I did the swap out thing 3 times just to be sure. The menu setting of “4P” is the winner. So, if you want to invest in this lil' monitor toy, you are now very far ahead of the game as far as installation/setup are concerned. Also, during battery recharging, during its 4.5 hour refilling, I can check the monitor to see what it reads as battery% and voltage are increased. Sure nuff, both items show a gradual increase as the recharging progresses. I'll be installing one on WhiteyFord, too because toyz iz toyz. The little LCD monitor only weighs about as much as a bunny fart, so using Gorilla HeavyDuty duct tape to connect it to the bottom of the ebikes cdu display is a piece of cake-- plus, if you need access to the back of the monitor, just flip it up and over. Too cool.
    I will give you an update when I post the “10,000 mile” thread in a few months.
    Thats all for now. I hope that the photo's are gonna post otay. Sic Puppy..






Thank you for a very informative post.

Q- those pill holders serve as support for the Lcd watch ?
- can you see the time of that Lcd from your Captain seat ? That’s really useful, no need to have a phone on the bar just for the time...

- if you know the brand of the blue stem, please lmk.

Oh and do you use a fast charger at all ? Such ad a 5 or 8amps one ?
 
]Thank you for a very informative post.

Q- those pill holders serve as support for the Lcd watch ?

A: No, the transparent blue pill holder is round, about 1” thick (hollow) and 2” in diameter and is attached onto the front lens of the LCD solar/usb headlight. The large black topside area you are seeing is the solar tray of the headlight. Since I just re-charge the headlight via the usb port (takes about 2 hours) when I re-charge the ebike battery, the solar panel is good for what I did with it-- attach the wristwatch main body to it.
When I first attached the watch face, it was to the very front of the solar panel. At that location, it was too much of a hassle to have to look around the stem/displays, etc. I now have it attached to the very rear, and slightly to the right-of-center and viewing it is almost effortless. The wristwatch (link attached) was much larger than what I was expecting (for Kids-- I don't think so). I initially had it up on the handlebar but it was TOO big and TOO bright (white), so I quickly came up with plan “b” (its current location). Its band material is just rubbery nylon so I cut off the band and used double-stick foamy tape to affix the watch body to solar panel. Eventually the watch battery must be replaced and the sticky foam stuff is easy/cheap enough to just remove and replace with new tape

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kids-Sport-LED-Waterproof-Rubber-Digital-Boys-Girls-Stopwatch-Date-Wrist-Watch/231630488235?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

- can you see the time of that Lcd from your Captain seat ? That’s really useful, no need to have a phone on the bar just for the time... Yes, the large digits are very easy to see, even way down where I have the headlight positioned. By the way, I used a piece of 2” long metal brace (holes already drilled-- at Lowes, etc) and a piece of pvc pipe end cap/plug ( 1”-- 1 1/2”diameter, also at Lowes-- in plumbing) to act as the fake handlebar to mount the headlight unit clamp on to. Drill a hole in the end of the pvc plug for the bolt to fasten to the metal brace at one end and attach the other end of the metal brace to the suspension fork crossbar (hole already there-- for fender, etc). You need a few inches (minimum) of space between the headlight body and the front tire or you'll rip the light right off when you remove the huge tire/wheel.

- if you know the brand of the blue stem, please lmk.My blue stem is 90mm. I also own one red stem(110mm) and two white stems (110mm)--they are used on my old school roadie bikes. At those prices, it's kinda hard to resist buying multiples. AliExpress is the Great Spoiler-- it usually takes 30 days to receive your order from over there, though..
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32846703129.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.9.17d46a2e9wcBgq&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.13338.146107.0&scm_id=1007.13338.146107.0&scm-url=1007.13338.146107.0&pvid=b342c7a7-50c9-47d4-94d1-73f52f0d412e

Oh and do you use a fast charger at all ? Such ad a 5 or 8amps one ?
I use are what came with the two M2S ebikes.. Very worthy 5amp w/built-in cooling fan.. That fan REALLY makes a big difference, too..I have a total of 4 battery chargers-- the 2 M2S units just blow away the POS chargers that come with the two Xtreme (ebike brand) ebikes.
If ya see any other items that you'd like a link to/for, just let me know.
 

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Information on the rear tire on your Kush. I am looking for an alternative to the knobby it came with.
Hi Craig Mack,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to your question. Here are a couple of links that will drive you crazy due to all the options. Both sites are in Europe, but the shipping rates to the USA are quite reasonable and delivery time is super quick. My crème tires on the blue Kush are the Ruffer V2 26"x3" model on the RUFF website. I wouldn't recommend going smaller than 3" for a fat tire rim.
https://classic-cycle.com/wheel-and-tire/tires-tubes-parts/tires/26-inch-tire/.
and/orhttp://store.ruff-cycles.com/ruff-cycles-bicycle-parts/wheels-tires/tires.html
Here is a US website for the DURO Beach Bum tire: https://www.ebay.com/i/163577224429?chn=ps&var=462973388179&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=462973388179
I think I read that 90% of your riding is done on-road.. 100% of my riding is on-road. My favorite tire for that type of riding is the DURO Beach Bum tire: super duper long lasting tread, awesome grip, low profile, etc. My DURO tires are blue but there are other options (including plain black) available, too. Live a little on the wild side with your ebike toy.
 
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How do you determine which bike to ride, between the Kush and the hard tail?
]Thank you for a very informative post.

Q- those pill holders serve as support for the Lcd watch ?

A: No, the transparent blue pill holder is round, about 1” thick (hollow) and 2” in diameter and is attached onto the front lens of the LCD solar/usb headlight. The large black topside area you are seeing is the solar tray of the headlight. Since I just re-charge the headlight via the usb port (takes about 2 hours) when I re-charge the ebike battery, the solar panel is good for what I did with it-- attach the wristwatch main body to it.
When I first attached the watch face, it was to the very front of the solar panel. At that location, it was too much of a hassle to have to look around the stem/displays, etc. I now have it attached to the very rear, and slightly to the right-of-center and viewing it is almost effortless. The wristwatch (link attached) was much larger than what I was expecting (for Kids-- I don't think so). I initially had it up on the handlebar but it was TOO big and TOO bright (white), so I quickly came up with plan “b” (its current location). Its band material is just rubbery nylon so I cut off the band and used double-stick foamy tape to affix the watch body to solar panel. Eventually the watch battery must be replaced and the sticky foam stuff is easy/cheap enough to just remove and replace with new tape

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kids-Sport-LED-Waterproof-Rubber-Digital-Boys-Girls-Stopwatch-Date-Wrist-Watch/231630488235?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

- can you see the time of that Lcd from your Captain seat ? That’s really useful, no need to have a phone on the bar just for the time... Yes, the large digits are very easy to see, even way down where I have the headlight positioned. By the way, I used a piece of 2” long metal brace (holes already drilled-- at Lowes, etc) and a piece of pvc pipe end cap/plug ( 1”-- 1 1/2”diameter, also at Lowes-- in plumbing) to act as the fake handlebar to mount the headlight unit clamp on to. Drill a hole in the end of the pvc plug for the bolt to fasten to the metal brace at one end and attach the other end of the metal brace to the suspension fork crossbar (hole already there-- for fender, etc). You need a few inches (minimum) of space between the headlight body and the front tire or you'll rip the light right off when you remove the huge tire/wheel.

- if you know the brand of the blue stem, please lmk.My blue stem is 90mm. I also own one red stem(110mm) and two white stems (110mm)--they are used on my old school roadie bikes. At those prices, it's kinda hard to resist buying multiples. AliExpress is the Great Spoiler-- it usually takes 30 days to receive your order from over there, though..
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32846703129.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.9.17d46a2e9wcBgq&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.13338.146107.0&scm_id=1007.13338.146107.0&scm-url=1007.13338.146107.0&pvid=b342c7a7-50c9-47d4-94d1-73f52f0d412e

Oh and do you use a fast charger at all ? Such ad a 5 or 8amps one ?
I use are what came with the two M2S ebikes.. Very worthy 5amp w/built-in cooling fan.. That fan REALLY makes a big difference, too..I have a total of 4 battery chargers-- the 2 M2S units just blow away the POS chargers that come with the two Xtreme (ebike brand) ebikes.
If ya see any other items that you'd like a link to/for, just let me know.
Yea I’ve made it try the pandemic (I hope) and found a nice 2015 Izip e3 Zuma to keep me from getting too FAT. Try to ride it twice a week here in the Atl area. I appreciate your insight and “toyz “. The one thing that I haven’t found are your handcuffs! Great idea. Please send me the link for them and which you found to be the best for the $. I’m hitting 72 yrs next month and really love that xtra help in the hills. I like your idea for the alternate handle bars too but will hold off for now. Keep the ideas rolling.
 
Yea I’ve made it try the pandemic (I hope) and found a nice 2015 Izip e3 Zuma to keep me from getting too FAT. Try to ride it twice a week here in the Atl area. I appreciate your insight and “toyz “. The one thing that I haven’t found are your handcuffs! Great idea. Please send me the link for them and which you found to be the best for the $. I’m hitting 72 yrs next month and really love that xtra help in the hills. I like your idea for the alternate handle bars too but will hold off for now. Keep the ideas rolling.
Hi ChrisJ77. Welcome to the world of EBReview Forums.
I now own 5 pair of handcuffs: each ebike has its own because I got tired of transferring them from bike to bike. I never paid more than $15 per set. Here is the ebay link: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2322090.m570.l1312&_nkw=handcuffs&_sacat=0
Or, you can go to AMAZON website and put "handcuffs" in the SEARCH box. Many, many options.
Either route will give you the option of many generic models. While the "hinged" handcuffs would be the best way to go, they are, in reality, much too restrictive in how you can maneuver them. I bought a pair and found this out the hard way. As always, learn from MY mistakes.. So, go with the chain link models instead.
I googled your 2015 ebike and it shows to be using tire size 26"x2.3".. That tire (2.3") would be too large for the handcuffs to fit around. I have found that a 1.9" tire is about the maximum useable. However, since your ebike has disc brakes, you can put one cuff through the disc rotor plate slots and one cuff around the bike frame (rear wheel setup) or, for the front wheel area, just above the disc brake housing on the fork blade. The handcuffs are able to "close in" to a pretty small diameter, if needed.
In regards to the extra handlebars (the triathlete bar extensions): I have since morphed their use into brackets to hold u-locks. I have 4 ebikes, each with their own u-lock mounting setup. Again, I got tired of moving a u-lock from bike to bike. I believe that I go into greater detail about that modification in one of the later postings (yes, see #8). I have found this modification to be an awesome method of transporting/securing a u-lock to the bike while not in use (the u-lock). I can't believe that the various u-lock companies haven't picked up on this mounting technique. If you read "customer reviews" on AMAZON in regards to any u-lock evaluation, you will find that the biggest complaint is unacceptable storage/transport methods because the u-locks are too large/heavy. My option addresses those complaints.
By the way, if you use both the handcuffs AND the u-lock setups (I do actually use this combo on my "grocery-getter" ebike-- cuffs for the 1.75" front tire), you can just secure the handcuffs to the u-locks crossbar (the removable section where the key slot is). You don't even need to unlock the cuffs because they will slide right off the crossbar when you detach it. Too cool.
Hope that all this babbling has helped you.
 
Thanks, Sic Puppy! I will be getting one of those battery monitors. Just ordered a couple of R750's, and, of course, the mods/upgrades begin before we even get the bikes. Lol.
 
Thanks, Sic Puppy! I will be getting one of those battery monitors. Just ordered a couple of R750's, and, of course, the mods/upgrades begin before we even get the bikes. Lol.
Congrats on the dual ebike purchase. My 2018 dual-suspension KUSH now has 17,000 miles on the odometer. My 2019 R750 now has 9,000 miles on its odometer. They both continue to purr along just as efficiently (and as quietly) as mile #1. It tickles me to know that I can hop on either one of these mighty beasts and go on a daily 50 mile ride without having to worry about (or even think about) mechanical issues arising.
The day will probably come when you want to do an extended solo ride (requiring the use of both batteries ). Just remember to carry the correct key for the correct ebike so that you can actually remove the battery. I learned that lesson the hard way, too.
As for the battery monitor: if you ever need replacement connectors, go to a hobby store that deals in radio control items. I believe the correct connectors are in the airplane section.
ADDENDUM:
The 70+ pound fat tire ebike
, is best used in conjunction with a rear hitch rack intended for a motorcycle: https://www.discountramps.com/foldi...6cn8UVoFaBzHALPo8NlVHHuejG_MwE-waAiLYEALw_wcB Or, maybe this one https://www.discountramps.com/motor...K-Qk3JX7T4W1lXgVofaLygOZRqiVuxSAaAmM9EALw_wcB . All motorcycle racks also include a loading ramp so you can roll your beast onto/off of the rack, Remember: the longer the loading ramp, (say, 6') the shallower the angle (a good thing).. In addition, most ebikes have a "walk" mode that will greatly ease the pushing factor. Just remember to really stay focused on the task at hand or you might roll the ebike off the side of the ramp/rack. Bummer deal, fer sure.
You will also want to consider buying this item so that you can have "fold up" capability for the rack : https://www.discountramps.com/hitch..._o8heHbzke61obrfJre8pb_4xoVATQgIaAmtpEALw_wcB .. If you're really feeling adventurous, consider mating one (or more) of these to the motorcycle rack for added stability/piece of mind (also google "motorcycle wheel chock" ): https://www.bing.com/shop?q=motorcycle+wheel+chock&FORM=SHOPTB
Sometimes ya just gotta think outside the box.
And if you need to haul 2 ebikes, mating two of this carrier should be an easy enough project-- after all, one rack is rated for 400 pounds-- that equals 5+ fat tire ebikes. Ya just have to “think outside the box” a little to make it/them work. Also, if your front fork has lockout capability (full rigid), use it because compressing the forks during transport is extra hard on the internal hydraulics.

It's kinda weird just how quiet this M2S forum is. Hopefully many, many owners are just out enjoying their precision beasts.
On another note, my piece of chit 2020 BIKTRIX SWIFT ebike has not been ridden since Dec 2, 2020 due to electronic items misbehaving AND complete total incompetence on the part of that Canadian home company. What a bunch of posers. But, it's only one thousand seven hundred US dollars down the crapper. But, then again, the days not over. But, it/they make me REALLY appreciate my M2S toyz.
 
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Hey, Sic Pup. We've had the bikes for a couple of weeks now--fantastic. I'm reasonably adept at basic bike mechanics, so setup was not big deal, although the front brake line on my bike was improperly connected, making attaching the bars impossible. No biggie. I just disconnected the brake from the fork, re-threaded the line, and all was well. Both front brakes did need adjustment. We've added Topeak Ergon grips, some barends for me, and Suntour NCX suspension seat posts, which are THE BOMB, btw--such an elegant, affordable design. Superb.

Re. the carrying rack: We REALLY wanted to be able to carry the bikes on the back of our Subaru, so the only option I could find was the Motow dual ebike rack. https://motowus.com/product/double-ebike-bike-carrier/
which can be configured with both 1.25" and 2" hitches. Load capacity for the 1.25 is 150 lbs. We load the bikes without the batts, so we're well under the limit. It's a solid design, but there is a slight learning curve to using it. Also, we had to pad the support bars with some old yoga mat material to protect rims and frame when loading and unloading. Minor stuff. The rack itself checks in at about 25 lbs. Not bad.

We'll do some pavement, but a lot/most of our riding will be on dirt tracks, of which we have many hundreds of miles around here, including sandy bits, hence the phat, phat tires. So what PSI do you run? I'm about 185 lbs., the wife about 105 lbs. Currently, she's at 10 psi, while I'm running 15. So far so good, but these are the first phat bikes we've owned, so we're still learning. I've noticed that my tires--the stock Juggernaughts--have pretty small nubs, which limit grip on loose terrain, so I'll probably enjoy a more aggressive tire once these wear out.

We've got the 21 ah batt upgrades, so we'll see about range. I don't expect to do a lot of mega rides, but we do want to try some short overnight tours with the dog. I've already done a grocery/errand run with our Burley trailer. Excellent!

Anyway, be well and safe riding. Here are a couple of shots of our bikes in their new habitat.
 

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Fun toyz fer sure.
I can't even imagine weighing 105 pounds (her) and blitzing the forest service/fire roads on one of these beasts. I also notice that hers is a step-thru model, indicating 24" tires.
As for tire pressure: I use multi-tire combo set-ups on both my bikes (actually 3 tires and an inner tube and some SLIME, too) -- per wheel. My usual psi is 14 per wheel because 95% of my riding is on asphalt/concrete bike paths, so I prefer "hard" over "cushy". I also run 3" city tires on both bikes-- except from mid-Dec thru mid-May when I install the original 4" Juggernaut knobby tires on the dual-suspension 2018 KUSH for playing in the snow. The 2019 R750 hardtail remains 3" city tires year-round.
If I were you, I'd just decrease the tire psi by only a few pounds at a time and doing long rides (10 miles+) to get a really good "feel" for the tire grip/ slippage/wallowing. Just remember that every option will be a trade-off of sorts. Ya just have to decide the lesser of the evils.
If ya get too low on the psi, the tire will roll off the side of the rim causing a possible "snakebite" inner tube situation. Bummer deal, fer sure.
Your rear hitch bike rack sure looks otherworldly. Is it not a hassle lifting those heavy ebikes on to/off of that rascal? Just remember to institute a fool-proof method of securing those batteries inside the car. At $500+ per battery, you don't want to come home from a distant road trip/ebike ride only to discover that the batteries are still back at the parking area.
 
If ya see any other items that you'd like a link to/for, just let me know.
thank you for the detailed DIY info. I found Grin Satiator to be a great charger, max. rate Is 8amps, and i had built it with 2 separate cords (36/48v ebikes) ; just plug&play with the Neutrik XLR gold connectors . No noise at all b/c it doesn't have a fan.
 
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