Recommendations anyone? Offroad Mountain e bike

Thistledew

New Member
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USA
Ok I have got lots of information on this forum, I know I want a mid-drive full suspension with a torque sensor, I know I will be spending at least $3000.
I feel I want a step through to make it easier on my knees and probably a fat tire bike as well. any recommendations?
 
Fat tires make for a 70 lb bike. Just what we old guys want, when we're riding between tree roots. Step thrus make for more weight too, because they have to beef up the frame, but that's a necessary evil,

By the way, I make liberal use of the"we". I don't ride thru nothing wild, only flat grassy fairways with summer flowers on each side.
 
Sounds like you've made some decisions. Now its time to test some ebikes. Without that experience, you'll have a hard time assessing how well advice you get here really applies to you.

Everything's a trade-off on an ebike. For example, fat tires have their pros in certain specific settings and significant cons everywhere else. Lots of people buy fat tire bikes cuz they look cool with no idea of the implications for daily riding.

The only way for you to play that trade-off for your own riding needs is to test ride a fattie with 4" tires against, say, a regular mountain bike with 2.5" tires. No one here can do that for you.
 
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Fat tyres make the bike hard to handle. You need an e-MTB, which is not overly heavy, is properly suspended, has reasonably wide aggressive tyres, and which is maneuverable on fast cornering, @Thistledew.

Regarding the weight, just think what would happen if you had to carry the e-bike over any terrain obstacle.
 
Until I was 18, I rode English bikes year round in Vermont except when snow depth made walking easier. After school I’d sling my rifle and take it on dirt roads into the hills to hunt. I’d take it camping, which entailed miles of gravel roads and mountain foot paths.

When I turned 73, I bought a Radrunner, partly for its apparent off-road capability. I had forgotten what I’d once known about bicycles. It handled very poorly on slippery stuff like sand, mud, or snow. On pavement, it was dangerously unstable. Bumps were torture. I was heavily dependent on the motor because it was as if I were too old for more than nominal pedaling.

It was so unstable that I often ran off an 18-foot road trying to make a u-turn. Remembering what I’d once known, I moved the seat back several inches by using a bent post and bracing it. The purpose was to better brace the weight of my upper body between the seat and the hand grips. I could now make u-turns on a 10-foot driveway.

There were two unexpected benefits. The first was seat comfort. I had used a suspension post, which made little difference. I could no longer use it, but I didn’t need it. Moving the seat back caused me to lean forward more. That lightened my weight on the seat by moving some of it forward to the pedals, where my legs could absorb bumps. What a difference!

The other benefit was that I could now pedal that one-speed bike up a grade like a steam locomotive. My legs no longer got tired. I’d ease off according to how hard I was breathing.

With a 12” speed square I found that my knee was now at 90 degrees when the pedal was at top dead center. With the original post, it must have been bent more sharply. When you try to pedal with a knee bent more than 90 degrees, muscles fight muscles. You accomplish less work, your muscles tire quickly, and it’s hard on the joint. (Lance Armstrong has advised that if an exercise is harming your knees, the best thing is to keep doing it but modify it so your knees don’t bend so far.)

Moving the seat back made me lean forward. That made bumps very hard on my wrists. The solution was a riser. If your bars are perhaps 8” higher than your seat, you can lean forward against them for stability without leaning heavily down on them. I have a bike with a front suspension. With the bars suitably high, it makes little difference to me if the suspension is locked.

There were few paved roads when the English bicycle evolved. Few owned cars, so it had to be durable, comfortable, and efficient enough for an average man to pedal 20 miles. You couldn’t haul it home in a car, so it had to be reliable.

I’ve aimed to make my e-bikes more like old-fashioned English bikes. Dutch bikes and e-bikes are a bit like that. The seating position allows grandparents to pedal where they’re going instead of driving. However, their bars tend to sweep way back for upright sitting. I believe it's better to lean forward a bit. Besides, swept back bars can put your hands more than two inches behind the steering axis, which can cause dangerous feedback between your body inertia and your steering. Before buying a Dutch bike, I’d want to be sure I could correct that with different bars.

I think Dutch e-bikes don’t have throttles. I like to disconnect pedal assist and control the motor with a half twist throttle. Motor torque is handy to get underway. I may not use it again until I start to tire on a hill. I could shift down, but if instead I add just a little motor power, I can maintain speed.

There aren’t many Dutch bike dealers in America. If they weren’t hard to get directly, I might have found one that suited me. If you just want reliable off-road transportation, maybe a Dutch e-bike would do it.
 
I have a Rambo Krusader 2.0. It is AWD, but I can select front only or rear only. I bought it because I live in Minnesota and I do ride in the winter. We do get snow here and it seemed like a good choice.

They now have a Rambo Krusader 3.0. Like others suggested, test rides are a great idea. I also like something that a local bike shop can work on.

 
Questions to ask yourself to narrow the search:

What kind of terrain will I be riding? Road or off-road? I think you answered that with forestry trails? So next question

How rough are the trails?

Is it hilly or flat or a mixture?

If hilly and occasionally rough, an EMTB with mid drive motor would seem logical (Electric Mountain Bike) As they are designed for this and are rugged and comfortable.

What distance will you ride mostly? If under 30 miles then any bog standard battery will probably be fine. At the lower end of the EMTB market 500wh would be good enough. More if you are planning to do all day rides for instance. Likewise the power of any decent emtb will be enough. Most have a torque of 75 to 90nm. More than enough.

Do I need a step through or would traditional mens triangle frame be ok? Less choice if step through, but they do exist. Some EMTBs have quite low top tubes as well. Good Q for local bike shop.

Is it dry or wet or mixed where you ride? Mudguards would be good if wet but can always be purchased afterwards, as in, don't let lack of fenders deter you from the bikes.

Budget under $3K. It's not a bad budget at all. especially now as the covid mad panic buying has gone the other way. It's a buyers market to some extent.

So without knowing the answers to these Qs it's tricky obviously for me to recommend a good fit, but my hunch would be a fairly standard emtb with mid drive motor. Most these days are what is called full suspension that is, front forks suspension and a rear wheel suspension. Comfy on rough ground but a bit more complicated to set up. A hard tail as the name suggests just has front suspension. These are also valid especially if you are only doing short rides that are not too rough. Plus are cheaper generally as good suspension costs $$$$

It's a question then of use, longer rides on hilly rough ground suit full suspension emtbs etc. But it can be personal choice/taste as well and depends also on your experience riding ordinary bikes - if you were a mountain biker then this an easy choice I'd say. If not, then definitely test ride (should anyway).

At under $3000 most of the main emtb bike brands that local shops should carry; Giant, Cannondale, Trek and Specialized should have what are called entry level emtbs at this price - I think - plus there are a LOT of discounted bikes on sale right now. Other reputable brands bike shops near you might carry are Cube, Orbea, Kona and Marin. All are well established and make good bikes.

Suggest with the answers to these questions next you put your detective hat on and head out to your local bike shops. See what brands they stock, how the shop staff feel, welcoming or not - plus no harm doing some online checking for customer reviews etc. And use this to narrow the choices down.

I'm less sure about direct to consumer bikes that you can order where you live. I'm not against them and they do have great deals. But it can be Wild West and you are on your own sometimes. The one that did come to mind because it's a US company, and lower budget and because I remember the great reviews this model got when it came out, is the Aventon Ramblas EMTB. Think it's under $3K and very well reviewed. Here's a link


I also like the Yamaha one recommended above and if you can get a bargain id say go for that. Yamaha ARE withdrawing their ebike sales from the US but Yamaha dealers will remain obviously selling motorbikes and outboard engines and what have you and they have said that all warranties for existing customers will be honoured. Plus Yamaha motors have a great reliability reputation and are (apparently) easily repaired. Giant also use Yamaha motors.

Finally a quick note on that - warranties - this is why people are suggesting you find a local dealer, ebike motors and batteries are expensive and they can fail. It's important to have a reputable brand who has a strong reputation for motor replacement under warranty. The ones I mentioned above all seem to have that. And I know first hand that Specialized are excellent. Usually if you develop a fault, you take the bike back to the bike shop you bought it at and they, on your behalf, contact the brand who (should) replace the part without quibble. If direct to consumer the same process (should) occur, but just check the reputation of the direct to consumer brand as there are a lot of new companies out there and it's easier to get burned plus you can't just nip into town and rant at the bike shop owner if there's a problem!

Good luck on the hunt! Over and Out.
 
Questions to ask yourself to narrow the search:

What kind of terrain will I be riding? Road or off-road? I think you answered that with forestry trails? So next question

How rough are the trails?

Is it hilly or flat or a mixture?

If hilly and occasionally rough, an EMTB with mid drive motor would seem logical (Electric Mountain Bike) As they are designed for this and are rugged and comfortable.

What distance will you ride mostly? If under 30 miles then any bog standard battery will probably be fine. At the lower end of the EMTB market 500wh would be good enough. More if you are planning to do all day rides for instance. Likewise the power of any decent emtb will be enough. Most have a torque of 75 to 90nm. More than enough.

Do I need a step through or would traditional mens triangle frame be ok? Less choice if step through, but they do exist. Some EMTBs have quite low top tubes as well. Good Q for local bike shop.

Is it dry or wet or mixed where you ride? Mudguards would be good if wet but can always be purchased afterwards, as in, don't let lack of fenders deter you from the bikes.

Budget under $3K. It's not a bad budget at all. especially now as the covid mad panic buying has gone the other way. It's a buyers market to some extent.

So without knowing the answers to these Qs it's tricky obviously for me to recommend a good fit, but my hunch would be a fairly standard emtb with mid drive motor. Most these days are what is called full suspension that is, front forks suspension and a rear wheel suspension. Comfy on rough ground but a bit more complicated to set up. A hard tail as the name suggests just has front suspension. These are also valid especially if you are only doing short rides that are not too rough. Plus are cheaper generally as good suspension costs $$$$

It's a question then of use, longer rides on hilly rough ground suit full suspension emtbs etc. But it can be personal choice/taste as well and depends also on your experience riding ordinary bikes - if you were a mountain biker then this an easy choice I'd say. If not, then definitely test ride (should anyway).

At under $3000 most of the main emtb bike brands that local shops should carry; Giant, Cannondale, Trek and Specialized should have what are called entry level emtbs at this price - I think - plus there are a LOT of discounted bikes on sale right now. Other reputable brands bike shops near you might carry are Cube, Orbea, Kona and Marin. All are well established and make good bikes.

Suggest with the answers to these questions next you put your detective hat on and head out to your local bike shops. See what brands they stock, how the shop staff feel, welcoming or not - plus no harm doing some online checking for customer reviews etc. And use this to narrow the choices down.

I'm less sure about direct to consumer bikes that you can order where you live. I'm not against them and they do have great deals. But it can be Wild West and you are on your own sometimes. The one that did come to mind because it's a US company, and lower budget and because I remember the great reviews this model got when it came out, is the Aventon Ramblas EMTB. Think it's under $3K and very well reviewed. Here's a link


I also like the Yamaha one recommended above and if you can get a bargain id say go for that. Yamaha ARE withdrawing their ebike sales from the US but Yamaha dealers will remain obviously selling motorbikes and outboard engines and what have you and they have said that all warranties for existing customers will be honoured. Plus Yamaha motors have a great reliability reputation and are (apparently) easily repaired. Giant also use Yamaha motors.

Finally a quick note on that - warranties - this is why people are suggesting you find a local dealer, ebike motors and batteries are expensive and they can fail. It's important to have a reputable brand who has a strong reputation for motor replacement under warranty. The ones I mentioned above all seem to have that. And I know first hand that Specialized are excellent. Usually if you develop a fault, you take the bike back to the bike shop you bought it at and they, on your behalf, contact the brand who (should) replace the part without quibble. If direct to consumer the same process (should) occur, but just check the reputation of the direct to consumer brand as there are a lot of new companies out there and it's easier to get burned plus you can't just nip into town and rant at the bike shop owner if there's a problem!

Good luck on the hunt! Over and Out.
Fantastic information! thank you! I have had my eye on the Aventon
 
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